No, you don't, I have over 220k on the stock trans with no issues from doing the trans service exactly the way I do it every 10k. It works just fine this way, the way you're referring to is just wasteful.

I've never had to put mine on service mode to do brakes on any car never mind my fusion....are you sure everything went back together properly? Did you turn the piston in slowly? Is the fluid low?

So, you want a video where they don't go over the parts and tools needed to do the job? I'm sorry, can't help you with that, i guess my intros will have to continue to be too long. Thanks for the comment!

Sounds like you are one of the lucky ones 70000 miles out of one set of pads basically unheard of how did the Jeeps

Just make sure that the parking brake is off you do not have to disconnect the battery just follow the direction in the video and you'll be fine, thank you for the comment!

To be perfectly honest I am not even sure if it has one, unfortunately I don't have the truck anymore to even be able to check for you. Thanks for the comment!

I believe it is, does it look the same underneath?

You replaced the caliper with a remanufactured unit and it's leaking around the piston? I'd say they did a crappy job rebuilding it, there's o rings inside that keep the fluid from leaking out. Either the piston is pitted or the o rings are damaged in some way which is leading to your leak, I would definitely remove it and get a new caliper, unless it's leaking from the banjo fitting, it's not your fault, it's the manufacturer. Take it back

@@ChevyMalibu69 you are 100% right I realize it last night after thinking about it ,the side that's leaking also has a big glob of glue coming out the back side center of the caliper I noticed when I bought it but it looked factory but what it actually was ,was some tried repairing the leak and resold it to me advanced auto in my area who knows how many times they resold it lol I deff know what to look for now when shopping for rear fusion calipers

I got all the lines from the dealer, and if you need a fitting that threads into the radiator or trans cooler it might be very difficult to find, it was for me back then when I did this job. I haven't had that truck in years now, but I think the line you're referring to is just a feed or return from cooler to radiator if I remember correctly

@@ChevyMalibu69 thanks

The dipstick is on the top of the axle, the orange plug

@@ChevyMalibu69 Thank you so much. Found it. Right in front of my face lol

Lol, well technically you have to hit them pretty hard 5 times to start the process off if that helps.....thanks for the comment!

@@ChevyMalibu69 no man yo thank you for helping us even with one hand

@@ChevyMalibu69 do you have a video replacement of the back as well?

Yes I have one on how to change the gear oil in the front axle as well, kzbin.info/www/bejne/e5KkqYiFr653qs0, let me know if you need any more info on this machine

Thank you for the comment, obviously the Squealer is just for when the pads Get Low and it's only job is to contact the rotor and alert you to the fact that the pads are low, the pad will still work the way it's intended whether the Squealers at the top or the bottom so I wouldn't be too concerned about it but if it's at the top when you remove yours I would just put it back at the top when you reinstall the new pads it's completely up to you

What? The hammer? Hey....what ever gets the job done boss, do what you gotta do!

And seeing that rotor just cluckin fly made me roll hard

Yeah, they're absolute garbage. I'm very glad I have since gotten rid of that thing, thanks for the comment!

Well to start, it's sport or select shift, not sequential but what I mean is to go from reverse to neutral to drive. Allow the trans a couple seconds to fully engage into each gear, then switch back and forth at least 8-10 times to ensure the fluid has made its way fully into the valve body, torque converter, solenoids, actuators etc... for you to get a proper reading on the level of the fluid on a level surface at normal operating temperature in park. Make sure it's just barely dribbling out of that hole by the wheel, not enough and you'll have problems and too much will give you shifting issues as well. Good luck and thanks for the comment!

Lol, wow! Don't you love it when it's their fault and you can prove it? It definitely was something that I dreaded too for sure, I've since traded that thing in for a 2019 Ford explorer and I couldn't be happier. I love the extra room and comfort.

You're welcome, glad I could help. Just make sure you change it frequently it'll help that trans last a long time.

@@ChevyMalibu69 most definitely will do. I thought you were going to show how to reset the shift pattern? I was looking for that video also.

You're welcome, glad it helped

Try this official Ford how-to guide explaining your exact issue... kzbin.info/www/bejne/mX2uq6OXeqmXiM0

@@tasercs thanks. I fixed it with this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sKeZqmqsbKZ6r6s

No, you will mess it up. Only use maf cleaner

There are torque specs for everything but mainly I just torque the lug nuts to 100 ftlbs. The hardware for the slider bolts I don't go crazy on but the bolts for the bracket itself I give it a little extra I'd have to say about the same as the lug nuts

You're welcome, glad to help