@HiThere-sc2jr I used to mask these windows without doubling the tape, but I found better overall results with the second row. It's pretty rare for painters to use 2" tape on most jobs, but what's important is to use what works best for you.

@@AdamGuillen-wh9qs I'm glad to hear that you're getting good results.

@wescat2 I think the perdura 4" and 5" stainers work very effectively too. The 5" might be called the "Rapid stain". If you go with a different 5" stain brush just make sure it's thick, (Like an Arrowworthy brand) not thin and flimsy like some brushes.

@@XCPainter Thanks! I'm definitely getting the Deck Boss brush for the horizontals

@ourwilliam2405 this was the finish coat for this spec home. If the house were further along in construction phases with trim, cabinets, flooring, electrical, etc I typically would just brush and roll if that suited the client's schedule

@ thanks for answering

And I want to add. You are THE ONLY PERSON who id trust to mask ANY car for me other than myself! I hate to do it but I'm aware that it has to be done right or there's no use, so I do it right. But you... you like like you thoroughly love doing it. Like everyone has said, Thank You Sir

@Anthony-h2r7z Thanks very much. Painting and prepping cars is so difficult and takes patience, hard work and much more. Houses are somewhat easier but can be a big scope of work and some logistics involved.

@jonathanschneider6192 with hardiplank lap siding, backbrushing or rolling is not needed or recommended. Just have to spray enough paint on 1st coat so it will absorb into the raw hardiplank.

@@ChrisandJaalaRogers whichever tape works for ya

@@manuelmireles9907 thanks this is the 3m 6800 series

@@smcgov 2 topcoats of acrylic is recommended for coverage, durability, color fade, eveness, etc. This home in the video is a Spec home, and was specced for one coat so that's all that was possible. Sprayed it on wet, but if you want a good job from new or repaint, 2 coats is better.

@@smcgov hardiplank doesn't require oil primer, but raw wood or weathered, cracked wood could use it.

@@asdfqwertybacktick it's acrylic paint. The p100 deals with nuisance vapors and particles and is enough for this task.

@@prophecynewschannel7398 Thank you, the grey is the primer color. The 1st coat of color was just applied and I'm about to second coat it with "Serious Brown".

@@homer009x no need to brush or roll in the very corners. The sprayer will cover those with the correct spray angle and distance away. Backroller should get close in vertical corners, and ceilings can usually be bumped with roller no problem as long as it's done evenly

@@diegoalvarado1062 to spray 1 coat of paint on siding and soffits, on this side of the house after set up and everything, was 33 minutes. That included going back to the sprayer to "prime" sprayer and refill bucket. To completely paint the whole home's exterior siding, trim (2 coats), and stained tongue and groove soffits in front... was 5 - 6 days ~ 38 man hours.

@@JUSTJAMIE82 rarely. If there's peeling, there's indication of something that went wrong or too rushed

@@smcgov primed trim gets oversprayed with the main color, then brushed and/or rolled over.

Paint peeling happens rarely. There are a few factors involved if and when that happens... if substrate like drywall etc was too cold, damp, or too hot when products were applied. If the primer was worked into the surface on applicable surfaces... same with topcoats. Quality of products, product application timing, tape removal timing, environment or humidity when pulling tape, type of tape etc. in general, peeling paint is indicative of a problem somewhere and can be attributed to products with poor adhesion, poor prep and cleaning, non ideal environment, or ineffective procedures.

@@350zsage that is a 36' ladder

@@billgoforth7426 thanks, this is an orange peel texture and a Spec home with a short deadline. I've done level 5 only once, and there are a few different methods to accomplish level 5, but it always requires applying a leveling skim coat or a leveling spray mud.. so this alone wouldn't work with level 5, especially with thst 3/4" nap we used.

@@XCPainter I had the same question any tips on avoiding flashing on a level 5 finish ?

@checkmate4213 if you're spraying and backrolling a level 5, the client has to be okay with roller stipple, or approve the roller nap so they are happy. To avoid flashing, you have to avoid getting overspray back onto a surface or corner that was rolled already, and focus on each wall with a smaller tip too... Or you can go with no backrolling if client approves. Use appropriate spray tip for job scope and time allotted.

Cool cool thanks for your input. Appreciate it I'm doing a custom perfect smooth Wall right now. Two coats of PVA two coats of finish back rolling all of it

Labor-intensive

@@jesserosenbloom1311 on these homes, and most, we caulked to wall, let dry overnight, paint caulking the wall color before we masked off walls.

ahhh interesting ok that makes sense. i usually paint walls, put floor down, then do trim and base board. works great except it's a pain doing the trim. i'm trying this way u show in the video now tho!

@@shawnderment7582 I would find either a Renner distributor and Rep, or Envirolak, Centurion, Icro etc... there are a lot of products available for your parameters needed. Some of those paints are thicker, and tougher than regular paint so it an bridge over onto masking tape at edges, after primer and paint.. Just don't go too heavy or renew masking if necessary

@@shawnderment7582 The reps can suggest a product that is just right with your equipment, experience and situation.. Just give them a call. Fine Finish Supply I'm Texas is a great company

@@aubreyoftheshire I leave the weather stripping pulled back over night so the paint can cure. I unmask it the next day. There are some paints that may remain more tacky after cure. I just painted and home, garage, and garage door and used this technique but didn't use any spray adhesive and it still worked.

@@XCPainter thanks for your reply, I’m about to do the same thing- no adhesive spray. My garage is metal so I’m doing a metal primer first and letting it dry overnight before I do the top coat. Sherwin Williams said it should be fine and shouldn’t stick to the weather stripping. I’m so relieved because it was going to look terrible with the edges unpainted.

@@klaus3794 thank you

@@shae937 thanks for asking. The walls get painted 1st though, then masked over

@@ERICCAMACHO-b7i the builders, architects, paint manufacturers, and even the siding manufacturer, make the specs on these spec home developments, not the employees of the sub contractors.

I wouldn't like using water-based primer for mdf... but if I had to use it, I suppose I'd talk with guys who sell envirolak or renner. I'd only use Cabinet Coat on built ins if the project just couldn't justify ordering up higher quality like Renner, Envirolak, centurion, etc I've only used a few Renner products (643 primer, 765 top coats) so more to experience with them.

@@XCPainter thanks

It does coat the sides of boards if they have standard gaps and if you use good brushing technique. Underside of the deck... any product or application can drip if you're coating the gaps and putting enough stain on to saturate and move around. If there's important items under the deck, I can cover them or the covrr the ground.

@@XCPainter At 2:10 I Can Clearly see the only Stain in the gaps at are the excess Drips/Runs.

​​@@theschreckster4300for one, did you notice I had JUST gotten started, and I was using a pole one with only one hand while I recorded with camera phone in my other hand? You didn't see any missed spots anyways and I'll gaurantee then got coated I've used these Deck Bosses for years now and they work like a champ.

Thanks. Benjamin Moore branded Fresh Start oil, general purpose oil would be good. Advance doesn't have the best adhesion, it's okay. With the oil primer, it would very best to make sure it's gassed off and cured before sanding, and even more before Advance goes on.

@XCPainter Thanks. I've been using Stix and Advance until I realized I should be using an oil primer on mdf. Any recommendations for a water-based finish for mdf builtins? I heard people use scuffx or Command also. 99% of my customers request BM colors. I have a Graco gx19 so not comfortable running any crazy solvents through there yet

@@joseph7105 honestly I'd look into a better coating for built ins... maybe Renner, Enviolak, or Centurion products ... you can search for distributors and they can help with the details and usage of their products.

@@XCPainter yeah I heard of those. Maybe I will just go for it now that I've switched to spraying. Thanks again

Thanks for asking. These metal doors probably won't swell at the bottom like wood does. There are 4 doors on this house and garage to paint red. There's no way I would pull 4 exterior doors off an occupied home to paint 2 sides of the doors. (Homeowners and pet dog at home.) The hinges on 3 doors are old, 1 is newer... the OLD hinge pins are not going to pull easy if at all, and would be a big hassle trying to get them lined up and installed after being freshly painted. If anything I'd pull the screws and hinges, not pins. Also, there is no yard space to even spray doors off the jamb, let alone 4 of them... the weather is windy here, sometimes even sprinkling or downpouring. If I get rained on, I can pack up tools and leave but not if there's doors sitting on sawhorses on this tiny property that need to be hung again. Those are some of the reasons.

Understood. I'm a carpenter, so duh to me. You do nice work. Now go home and get your shine box.😁