so at 6:31 I show a power distribution strip and then how to build it. The connector on the left (the female connector) would plug into the 12V power supply and power that entire set of connectors. So that takes the DC positive and the DC negative and extends equal power across the line to each connector. In DC power there is always a negative and a positive wire. They are exclusive and connecting the negative and positive together would short them out causing a switched (LED) power supply to shut off until the short is fixed. If you wanted to power multiple strips of of power connectors with each one having a female connector at one end, you would need some type of device to split the power like I cover in 8:17. It is also worth noting that the LED's have a positive (+) and a negative (-) and if you hook one up backwards the result is... the LED's at that connection won't illuminate... until you reverse the connections. What I would recommend is ignore the village and build a short power distribution switch... plug it into a power supply and then connect some lights at the connectors. If they turn on then you are doing the right thing and you would be scaling it up. I do have a video on one color dimmers I had compared. Most are still available. Let me know how you make out.

@@frankgarofalo843 that is a feature in the led switch input in line. This one uses an rd remote and has a flash feature. On my Chanel I review one Cole led controllers and I cover that controller there. The line power connection is near the lighthouse where I place the flashing light controller. That means this fixture connection goes on the full 12v line feed and dims after the controller is in place. I will add that the bottom light goes on the house feed and is dimmable without the flash. So I have wires for the top light and the body light going in the base. I used a dowel to mount the correct positions and I have a light block (larger dowel) that sits between the levels… so you don’t see the flash at the bottom.

@alwaystinkering6972 thank you so much!!

Are you commenting on this video I made about Christmas village lights kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqrap4KHf852m9k or you need some hard to find mini lights like the ones that sometimes come on fixtures like trees?

while I don't know for sure, I would assume not. But, as I point out in the video, the keyboard will go dark if you door switch is bad. The keyboard does not light until the door switch is engaged. So if you have not checked that, you may want to. Several people have reported that switch failed and replacing it fixed their problems.

Lets say No I don't. But looking at the video... while the element looks screwed in form the bottom, it looks like it is soldered inside so there is no easy way to get it out of the way for cleaning above it.

The bulb is replaceable. I did not remove it in the video but you can see the screw holding the cover. As I recall someone put the bulb number in the comments so you may want to check in these comments and the comments of the video I put in the description.

@@alwaystinkering6972 - Thank you. I replaced my bulb. It is a G6. 120v. I believe the original is 20w. At Home Depot I only found a 35w, but it seems to be fine. I had trouble finding the right bulb on Amazon. Many are 12v, instead of 120v.

@@lrzinck I am glad you were able to get to the bulb. Thanks for sharing what you found as it will be helpful to others with the same challenge.

And is this the reason for Thermo State switch to get stuck?

Pl guide

@@aleksandarangelevski9599 I used a 12v led driver power supply and put a bunch of power plugs tied into a terminal block… as I recall. The led driver is supposed adjust to maintain the voltage as forward power draw changes… again as I recall from previous reading.

@@jatinkumardesai583 the switch could be bad or you are restricting the airflow out of the vents in the back (too close to a wall or in a confined space) or the switch is doing its job and protecting your unit from overheating because some other component is not working properly. The switch plays an important role in preventing an overheating situation.

@@alwaystinkering6972 thank you so much, gentle man.

Pl kind enough to let me know the art number and source to buy the same of this very instant Air fryer,as shown in vedio.pl.regar

Part number of Thermo State switch that gets stuck offen.thank u very much.jatin Desai

@@jatinkumardesai583 In the comments I have a link to a video made at the same time as mine where he removed the thermostat and shares the part number. Best of luck.

Verifique se o positivo e o negativo estão corretos no detector de movimento. Alguns acenderão as luzes se forem conectados ao contrário, mas não desligarão.

Obrigado

Lets assume the same power supply. The switches are click on and off, not dim or electronic. Probably. Is it the best solution? It has problems like one switch on leaves it on. Electric will follow the path of least resistance. So it will decide which way it goes. I would NOT recommend two different power supplies, one on each end. If you had that run two strips next to each other, one switch does one string, the other switch and power does the other string. Nothing electronic controls, two switches will send power to the side of the connections not designed for that (outcome of that will vary based on device). It would require some extra wire, you could use a relay. Power to each switch back to trigger the relay. On the load side of the relay... run power to that and that hot let to your lights (ether end). Then ground LED to ground, ground to the trigger side of the relay. While not rated for in-home use, I have used car relays for such items.... oh in this model you could use three way switching, but again extra wires... but it would give you on/off regardless of side.

​@@alwaystinkering6972 Yes, the power supply is same at both the ends. The switch is same as shown in your video i.e., SPDT. The setup is for the kitchen overhead cabinets with two doors, where the switches are placed near the hinges of both the doors so that the light turns on when either of the door or both the doors are open (similar to a 2 way switch connection). There are 6 cabinets which will be connected to same power supply by running + and - lines through each cabinet connected via 3 channel connector. The strip light will be connected to the switches and the connector as shown in your video.

@@ersomesher Oh... run the power to the first switch... from that same leg of the switch run the power to the second switch using two strands... from both switches run the other leg to the light connection near the first switch. Bundle the power and power ground at the first switch. You can use the wire in wire management in plane site, or hidden above or behind depending on cabinet design. This shows some double doors done that way. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGO4gGWYjZWenrc and wire management is here kzbin.info/www/bejne/kHaQoZJ5h8qLndk In this design both switches have power, but ether and both can trigger the light. Last one closed turns it off.

​@@alwaystinkering6972 I have used three point connector at both the ends of the LED light. Ran -ve line through the LED light and connected to one of the three points. Rest two points of the 3point connector, I connected the incoming +ve line and the return +ve line. Switch is connected this +ve line at both the ends. I also connected the +ve terminal of the LED light to the return +ve point of the connector. Now when either of the switch or both the switch is connected, the light glows. No short ckt.

The timer is likely on the logic board behind the touchpad and that has nothing you can service. Maybe there is a stuck button or loose wire causing a voltage shortage. I would say not likely. Now I can’t see what it is doing, but if you had a bad door switch, if it breaks contact it would reset the panel… since we know that when you open the door the panel goes dark. You would see the entire panel flash resetting the time… I would think to be the symptom.

Same. Working like new. Thanks a ton for the vid!

The switch could be protecting you from a fault or it could be bad. Others have stated they replaced theirs to find out. I have some notes in the comments regarding another video with the part information.

I would assume they are not all identical monitors with the mount holes in the same spot on each monitor. The center monitor has the largest adjustment range of the three. If you cannot get them to your liking then some type of plate on the side monitors or the center monitor to increase the offset would likely be the option available.

@@alwaystinkering6972 can I send you a photo ?

@alwaystinkering6972 yeah can I send you a photo because I feel like I wasted my money with this quad monitor arm

If it is not this particular model then I am not familiar with it. You are looking for the door switch. It may be visible or it may not. At some point in the door closure it is expected to make contact with some part of the moving door and trigger the switch. You can inspect for the switch. You would be looking for a cut in the plastic around the door or a protruding piece of plastic. One side of that location would have movement. The switch could also be inside and be triggered by an interior motion. This model had a standard off the shelf limit switch which made it replaceable. Best of luck.

​@@alwaystinkering6972- THANK YOU. From over the pond. 🇬🇧😊

I have never tried it but being below the 12v lower rating it probably would not. If you look at usb led and dimmers those operate at 5v. So they may operate with 3 batteries for 4.5 volts. That would have to be tested. Maybe you can find some costume led’s that have a remote. Those are designed to work with batteries.

​@@alwaystinkering6972thank you very much! So I changed the operation of the LEDs to 3 AAA batteries (by connecting it to an old 3 AA battery holder I had) and the remote worked BUT it was not enough to entirely stop the current. My guess is that these LEDs don't have any resistors and will turn on with any small amount of current that passes. Since I had ordered two controllers, I placed them in series and managed to entirely turn off (and on) using the controller. Definitely not the most elegant solution, but at least I managed to do something with the parts I already had. Thanks again for your help!

No. These controllers make dirty power by creating the flashing to give the illusion of traditional dimming. You want a DC motor controller. I don't know if I have seen one with a remote, but they are likely out there. I have use such things on some printing projects.

You would have no power if it was the thermal switch. You would have the interior light and no keyboard if it was the door switch. You have some other problem. Unfortunately it could be one of a couple of things from relays, to control chips or the element. That would make it hard to diagnose and fix without the right test equipment, knowledge of the machine and parts. Best of luck.

Thank you for your information I truly appreciate it.

I use the brown above my kitchen cabinets... which are high. The sensor faces down into the room. There is a door opposite the sensor at about 3 meters. while not my desire... it will sometimes catch me at about 9 meters out through the door. I think you would be fine.

@@alwaystinkering6972 thanks About your time and about regard