12V PIR Motion Sensor Review for LED lights

[@lgryn]

Thanks for the video. You mentioned that the first PIR-8 unit you tested didn't have polarity on the plug but the green plug pulls out from the unit and the polarity is printed on the black housing.

[@alwaystinkering6972]

Correct. While who manufactures the various units may vary the wiring polarity is normally printed or embossed someplace. I have recently received units with stickers on the back with a diagram. The outdoor ones continue to leave you guessing.

[@eddiecnino1]

Great video. You explain things so well. I teach myself and found your explanations very clear. Thank you.

[@H4mst3r.]

Hello, can i use any sensor in a pair? Because i need one upstairs and one downstairs

[@alwaystinkering6972]

I just got some blocking rectifiers so i can test and do a video for that. Unless the sensor has protection for power arriving via the load connection they don't normally behave right if power arrives on the load side. Take the small one in the video. If i connect that one backwards it will turn on and stay on. Rectifiers pass dc power in one direction. Putting one on the load side will prevent power arriving from the load side on subsequent sensors. I think i got 10amp or higher rectifiers. You will want one that can handle the power draw through the circuit.

[@alwaystinkering6972]

One more option you can do now if the same power source is used for all connections. Have the motion sensors trigger relays that power the lights. That will isolate each motion sensor. Most relays click, there are are ones that don't but they frequently generate more heat. I have used these in an outdoor motion install... A Car Relay 4 Pin 12v 40amp Spst Auto Switches... they click... www.amazon.com/dp/B01J53IH5M

[@marknakhl5379]

Thank y for this good review The first one What is the reel range for it ? I have place like 4 meters can i use the first one

[@alwaystinkering6972]

I use the brown above my kitchen cabinets... which are high. The sensor faces down into the room. There is a door opposite the sensor at about 3 meters. while not my desire... it will sometimes catch me at about 9 meters out through the door. I think you would be fine.

[@marknakhl5379]

@@alwaystinkering6972 thanks About your time and about regard

[@rafaelsouza1130]

Can I adjust sensiblity on that white sensor?

[@alwaystinkering6972]

No. It has very good sensitivity at the edges. You can turn a sensor away from an are when that is an option. It will still grab what crosses into the edge area. I have experimented with masking the sensor with some success but the way they work it was still very sensitive to areas I was trying to mask. Only the outdoor model had a sensitivity setting which works. I have never tested it indoors.

[@rafaelsouza1130]

@@alwaystinkering6972 Thanks for your answer, I'm using a sensor like the third one that you presented here, but I would like to reduce its sensitivity a little, because from the front it is triggering at about 3 meters.. I'm using it with led tape to light a kitchen counter, however it is triggering from afar.. I would like to restrict the sensitivity a little, but I imagine that the lateral sensitivity will be low too, if I had the option. thanks

[@alwaystinkering6972]

@@rafaelsouza1130 under the counter I mount my sensors on a swivel. Then I can rotate them. I try to source my power at an end facing into the kitchen. I would try facing it down and toward the wall… assuming you have it at an end.

[@alwaystinkering6972]

I use this style below. You can use the plate or take the pin off and attach it to a piece of angle iron you screw under the counter. In the porch screen section of the hardware store they sell bags of pre painted aluminum L shaped metal. a.co/d/7GRVwSR you can source these in many places. This one says aluminum. They are frequently steel.

[@cegrim]

Thanks for this video. I'm curious if you have seen any of these switches that can themselves be switched in a way that lets you manually override them and force them to turn on the attached LED light string or whatever. I recall outdoor 120 motion sensing floods that let you turn them off for exactly a second and then when you turned them back on, they just immediately switched on the light without worrying about the motion sensing. Thanks for any info.

[@alwaystinkering6972]

I have not seen one with a bypass switch built in. I have considered adding a bypass on my garage door under eve lights. Consider a dpdt (double pull double throw) or spdt (single pull double throw) switch after the motion sensor and before the lights. Hw store or auto store for these. Spdt wire the (+) for the light to the center, the motion load/out (+) to one side and the power from your source (+) to the other. With the dpdt the 2nd set would have the corresponding (-). The problem of course is these switches are frequently huge or too small with a need to be mounted someplace. It also adds to your cost. This config i mention leaves the motion powered in both modes but only able to activate the lights when selected. You may even get an off position depending on the switch. There are other ways to wire than this one to achieve the same result.

[@cegrim]

Thank you for your quick response. I understand your solution. I should have mentioned that I wanted to control a number of motion sensors/LED string combination from one switch. I have an idea, but I'll need to try it to see if it adversely affects the motion sensor/switches. I could run two power lines to each motion sensor/switch. One would always be powered and would connect to the input power connector on the motion sensor/switch. The other power line would be switched by the switch that I want to add. And it's power would be connected (along with the power line to the LED string) to the "load" side of the motion sensor/switch (all the sensor/switches in my case). I know the motion sensor/switch may not like the load side being powered externally, but maybe it wouldn't matter. I'll try it out and see if it fries it.

[@lloydiedesu5131]

do you have a video how to wired the gray motion sensor i bought 220v version i dont know how to connect since we dont have grounds and also no positive and negative

[@alwaystinkering6972]

No. Looking at listings on ebay most have a wiring diagram. The 220v only powers a 220v led strip, not a 12v led strip. You would need a relay to trigger a dc strip. I have a 12v dc relay that turns on my 120v front lights when my 12v motion sensor turns on my over garage led strip. I used a RBU1UC for that but that is not the right one for you. You would need a 220v trigger to close the dc loop if this is your situation.

[@raptor0040]

With the big outdoor sensor would it be possible to modify it to handle switching up to 12 amp?

[@alwaystinkering6972]

I have gotten around the throughput limitation by simply using the motion sensor to trigger a DC relay. Usually a car relay as they are very easy to come by. Of course there is a click on that style and you need space to install it. If you need I can post the basic wiring diagram. I run the lights over my garage this way.

[@alwaystinkering6972]

Here is a link to what it would look like with a relay. In answer to your question of could it handle 12amps. Probably. The penalty would be the weakest link burns out. The relay removes the motion sensor throughput as a factor. www.dropbox.com/s/mqw5tzv6tt3xioz/Garage_Motion_Outdoor_LED_With_Relay.jpg?dl=0

[@raptor0040]

@@alwaystinkering6972 Thank you for the reply, i may not have to use it as i have to measure how many amps the circuit is drawing first but i thought i would ask in case i need to use it.

[@paulk6993]

Hello, First, thank you for this video. I found the outdoor model shown in the video locally and I prefer the looks vs the small sensors but I want to install it indoor with LED strips. Just to double check, should I connect the 12V power supply +(pos) to brown then -(neg) spliced to blue and negative of strip then red to positive of strip? Should I worry about ground loop? Thank you.

[@alwaystinkering6972]

Good question. The answer is no with one issue i have come across. These shared ground motion sensors cause issues with some led amplifiers. The amplifier is what you use at the end of a long led string to continue on to more strings and still share the same dimmer and on/off controller. Some led elctronics switch the negative side. This normally means the (+) is always running through the string vs the negative. The shared common motion sensors on the first string causes one string to stay on when you really wanted them both off. This issue is created by the amplifiers interpretation of what the state is and allowing current flow. In this case think of it like modern car wiring or a battery... ground is your common to all. I hope that helps.

[@themann713281]

Thanks for making this video!

[@frankmurray9172]

Thanks for your video. I bought the large one you describe 7 mins into your video. As you say no instructions came. I couldn't get it to work and I hope I havn't blown it trying different combinations. My set up is a 12v car battery linked to a solar panel and a solar charge controller box. The box has the following connectors ; Plus and minus solar panel. Plus and minus battery. Plus and minus lights. Could you give me some advice on how to wire it in ?

[@alwaystinkering6972]

This will work off the led connector on the controller . Brown to + on the controller. Red to the led +. Lastly blue to the led black and then connect that blue/led black bundle to - on the controller. If that one’s not work you should test the motion sensor to the battery only. Don’t forget the daylight sensor is in play. The location should be dark enough that it can trip.

[@frankmurray9172]

@@alwaystinkering6972 Many thanks for your detailed reply. I will have a go!

[@frankmurray9172]

I went out to have a go at this today. I think I have understood you, but could you check this please, to make sure; Brown to be fitted to the battery plus terminal on the controller. Red to be fitted to the LED plus terminal on the controller. Blue to be fitted to the LED minus terminal on the controller. Introduce a new black wire to run from the LED minus terminal, to the battery minus terminal on the controller. N.B. There is an on/off button on the controller.

[@alwaystinkering6972]

Oh wait. The led+ on your controller is a source. Test if the led switch on the controller turns off the plus or negative. The red on the motion has to go to the led + only on the light strip. If the led on the controller is switched on the negative then wire the blue to the battery negative and the led light black to led controller negative. Leave the led controller + empty. If the led controller is switched on positive and you want to use its switch you need to let it turn the motion sensor on and off too. So motion brown to controller led port + and motion blue to led port minus along with the led light black to the same port. Red will always go to led light red. I leave my motion powered and switch on the led side. The default power on for the motion is to activate the led light. You could use a led light side switch and skip the controller led ports all together. Let me know if we need a diagram.

[@frankmurray9172]

@@alwaystinkering6972 Thanks for all the information. I wasn't sure how to test as to whether the controller is switched on the plus or negative side. I looked at another KZbin video about switching and did the following test; With the controller switch on and the LED's alight, I put the positive probe of my voltmeter to the positive terminal of the battery. I then put the negative probe to the negative of the LED terminal and got 12v. I then put the negative probe to the positive LED terminal and got zero voltage. I was expecting it to be the other way round, if it was a negative switch. Maybe this means its positive switch? I'm getting a bit out of my depth ! Hope this helps. Yes a diagram would really help. Thanks again.

[@peterkoval]

can i use the first one with a typical low voltage landscape lighting run?

[@alwaystinkering6972]

Let’s cautiously say yes. The sensors are on/off vs a dimmer so no problem there. If your landscaping lights are the old halogen those are normally low AC voltage and for those won’t work... without a relay. I have used 12vdc to AC relays off the outdoor motion I show in the video so if you need information let me know. The easiest way to see if your landscape lights will work with motion is to look at your power supply. If the output is 12 to 24vdc out with a max rated DC amperage below the rating on the motion sensor then yes, it should work. You would wire from your power supply to the motion and then off to the lights.

[@peterkoval]

@@alwaystinkering6972 Thanks. I have a low voltage LED setup. I believe 12v. But really just looking for something to activate a set of stairs with LED decklights when someone approaches.

[@alwaystinkering6972]

Peter Koval. Remember that needs to be DC volts. In an always motion sensor activated config you have to cover the stairs and the main deck to make sure you activate from everywhere. To prevent sitting on the deck and the lights turn off because nobody moved, You may want to add a dpdt switch to have an ON mode and a motion activated mode. I have a video where I put led’s on a deck controlled by a dimmer. Where the dimmer is in that video could be a WiFi controller or dimmer with a dpdt switch. Dpdt would move the negative and positive side of the source with the switch position. That way when not in use the motion is totally offline.

[@peterkoval]

@@alwaystinkering6972 Thanks. In our case we have a set of low voltage LEDs controlled by a generic landscape light transformer. (not sure of the type as it was inherited with the house. But we have a set of steps leading up to a street, and I want them off unless someone needs to walk on them, and motion sensor off/on would make sense. We also have a sprinkler timer, but I'm not sure if the motion sensor can be connected to that power. Anyway I'll have to research more. Thanks for your reply!

[@shafiullahislam6425]

Will it be on and off automatically day and night

[@alwaystinkering6972]

The brown one has no daylight detection option. The other three do. With daylight option you can opt to have them always turn on or only turn on when activated after dark.

[@sterlingritch3547]

can you convert an ac motion sensor to dc?

[@alwaystinkering6972]

Not really. Someplace there is a likely a rectifier to convert that AC voltage to DC between the AC connection and the motion sensor circuit. Many of the PIR sensors I have read the specification for run at about 3 to 5V DC. This would mean that even 12V DC voltage may be stepped down to 3 to 5V as well. Bottom line, figuring all the right things to do take out the AC rectifier and then make sure the new 12V DC connection is providing the correct circuit voltage would not be straight forward, if even possible. Many rectifiers are built right into the same board as the DC circuit... so they are essentially one.

[@davidwittrock6463]

I cannot see the name or mode of the switches. The corner shots of the ebay listings are not legible. Your hands cover up the packaging. Would be helpful to know the approx cost as well. I tracked down what appears to be a Tuodi which is the second of your models and it sells for $88, very expensive. Is it worth it vs $15 for other models

[@alwaystinkering6972]

The second one is the one that comes with the pivot I randomly picked the first one I saw on eBay. $11 is about double what they used to cost. I most frequently use the smallest one I show or another one that came out that is similar but the connectors are on each side and is even smaller. This is the first listing I saw of that style. www.ebay.com/itm/143651483471

[@alwaystinkering6972]

The question of worth. It is certainly a more significantly built unit and with the physical relays able to sustain height amps. But size and concealing a sensor are my most frequent use... like under a cabinet above a counter. I find I most frequently use the smaller ones. To pivot the small sensors I use security camera pivoting bases. I show one being used that way in my installing led lights on wiring shelving video. I also show a small one being used in my entertainment center video.

[@partyboydude]

What a good video I appreciate it.

[@imaginativebicentipede2936]

Great video. Very informative. But has anyone ever told you that you might be color blind? (no offense) Just wanted to make sure you know that you got your "brown" wrong.

[@michaelmorris4]

Really helpful video. Don't you love the internet!-

[@renatofiorentin5263]

Estranho ,regulei 10 min, porém não desligou,nada movimento, oque pode ser..

[@alwaystinkering6972]

Verifique se o positivo e o negativo estão corretos no detector de movimento. Alguns acenderão as luzes se forem conectados ao contrário, mas não desligarão.

[@renatofiorentin5263]

Obrigado

[@durkjenkins578]

They all leak, water gets in had several of them all failed. Had gray ones and the black ones.

[@alwaystinkering6972]

Only the grey one is designed for outdoors. They only time I have had an issue was when I wrapped it in plastic wrap for a hurricane which resulted in the plastic wrap filling with water and flooding it. Hurricanes blow water into every crack and crevasse. That being said all my installations are under overhangs. The buttons are mounted downward and the sensors are at an angle so if any water came in through the Lens I would not have noticed since there is nothing at the bottom of the Lens area. The other thing to check is your electric box. They sometimes leak and the water runs to the lowest point. When running low voltage wires outside dip the wire below the connection about an inch tot he’ll water drip off at the low point before reaching your connection. Silicone joints if needed just make sure you leave the lowest point not siliconed if you can. I hope you have better luck with future installs.

[@durkjenkins578]

@@alwaystinkering6972 I did not know only the gray ones for outside. Very deceiving on ebay no mention not waterproof. I opened one black one no gasketing at all. Now the gray one did have a black rubber gasket. I made a cover on top and of course adjustment pots on the bottom. I did all I could to keep them dry. Thanks for the info.

[@luigielgatto7029]

non c'e' nessuno aiuto in quale negozio ci si puo' fornire e per giunta non e' in italiano , quindi non ho voglia di arrabbiarmi

[@alwaystinkering6972]

Cerchi un posto dove acquistare? negli USA li compro su Amazon e eBay. scusa se non ho capito appieno la traduzione. bel gatto. Ho un paio di gatti qui.