@@gg.420 🤣🤣 hahaha

If it's about the cbr600rr I just cut off the rest I wasn't using leading from the switch itself. you basically cut the green wire in half leading from the wiring harness then you cut off a nice amount of the pink wire from the oem ignition switch (if you have it). Attach the diode to the end of the green leading from the wiring harness (make sure its tied good for the best connection) after you have that installed you'll take the pink wire you cut and attach it to the other end of the diode (once again make sure its attached properly). Then what I did instead of completey cutting that red wire in half I just cut a nice size opening and tied in the pink wire around it then taped everything with electrical tape nice and tight. If it doesn't work the first time try switching the diode around and make sure your wires are nice and tight. My bike has been running strong no problems since I've done this.

Thank you man.

I was wondering what to do with it also what did your bike do when it wasn’t starting did anything click or did it try to crank ove

@@arch5111 no problem man it was the biggest headache of my life until I narrowed it down to the ignition switch. And my bike acted like it was completely dead no power at all. Only thing that worked was the clock I honestly thought it was so many other things had to hop on the forum during the process I basically replaced almost every major component the bike is pretty much new now at this point 🤣

THATS LITERALLY ME i replaced every single thing that could be wrong and all it was, was this after market ignition switch thank you for your feed back I can’t wait to fire my bike back up

Lmao tbh man save the time didn't realize all the rambling I did throughout the video I would've made a new one but its been so long im sure theres much better videos out there. 🤣

Well I can say it worked on a 2010 hp pavilion laptop Just don’t expect fast download and update speeds but it’ll work on just about any computer as far as I know 😂

Glad I could help you out man ✊🏾

I just got tired of it is all wanted to switch up the tone a bit it’s still a good affordable catback exhaust.

Yessir! 😂

Anyone know how he did it?

@@ryanavila8276 as you’re driving just switch From D TO N and rev. After just pop it back into drive

@@jj_c27 yeah I figured tht out I never seen this comment 😂😂

Hey I have the same front pipe and a auto. It does fit but it is a very tight fit

There were subtle crackles and occasional pops and gets better after the break in period. If you’re interested in the catback I say go for it personally I got tired of the sound after a while which is why I switched my setup I’m gonna post an update on my FRS soon I’ll also be uploading a sound clip of it currently in a bit.

@@FrostyD3viL sweet thanks just havin some trouble finding somewhere that delivers to Canada

@@FrostyD3viL would running a catless header give more pops

@@Javon-Frs2013 most recommend running catless so you don’t prematurely wear out the cat in the headers. And yes you would get better pops from that but it also depends on your catback fp and op I remember having the spec D exhaust and that thing would burble and pop without a tune so it’s mostly on your setup and preference

Lmao I’m in the chitown group I showed you my setup earlier on your post 😂😂

@@FrostyD3viL oh shi

But I’ll make a video soon with my entire updated setup explaining everything I’ve done so far

Have you had success with this?

Its dual resonated Ive actually added quite a few more mods so I’m gonna post another vid soon showing them all

I bought one just today and i guess im having the same issue. Once i plug it to my computer it says downloading necessary files to you system. Does that mean it’s useless or do i just need to wait? Btw ive already been waiting an hour

Trippy so a couple things.... the guy that had mine before me didn’t update it ever so I had to update it which took about 3hrs tbh... make sure it’s unmarried. Then go to your windows computer. Turn off windows defender, go to open flash performance, download open flash manager, plug in the OFT and follow the prompts. Once it’s updated, click erase tablet. Then go to your car and have it read the ecu. Then go back to your computer and download the tune file you want from open flash performance website. It’s a lot i know. I downloaded 3 tunes at once so that I wouldn’t have to go back to my computer at all lol

It works bro thatnks

I had no issue fitting it honestly it bolted right on I know in some cases people try to flatten out the part that’s against the transmission. I’m sure if you read some forums they’ll give you more insight on it sorry I wasn’t much help man. But it won’t affect the overall purpose of the frontpipe

@@FrostyD3viL thanks 👍

Hey, I went on their website to buy it and they have this one question that you have to answer. It basically states that you are either using this front pipe for race tracks only, but you own a car from 1886-1965 or that you are installing this front pipe not on a car based in the usa. What option do I click?

Methawat yes it supports the entire 86/brz/frs platform

Lol I got same colours frs then u auto

I actually traded my spec D exhaust for the berk delete lmao but I think they normally go around $180 or above

Blaze FR-S sold this money pit frs for a Beamer 335d best purchase ever !

Blaze FR-S doing 11.8 in 1/4 with my setup.

og og ayyyee nice man tbh thinking about trying to get a m4 lmao

With stock front pipe it’s definitely quieter lol. What’s the plan on your build I can give you some pointers if needed

Blaze FR-S i just don’t like the raspy tone of the spec d that’s why i was planning on switching to this muffler delete however i still want to keep it fairly loud

I currently have a Borla axle back do front pipes really make it louder ? Or just a bit. I just want some more sound from my exhaust lol

assign frontpipes do help out stock is more restricted and really kills the sound. I’m not saying it’ll make the biggest difference but you will definitely hear your car more than stock

The rasp actually went down with the new frontpipe a bit it was mostly the specD which is why I changed from it.

@@FrostyD3viL thanks for the quick reply I have a mild exhaust on my frs and a uel cattles header which sounds really good just want it a bit louder and maybe pops with a tune currently has no rasp whatsoever and dont want to introduce any into it!

MarkAnthony perez yeah if you’re looking to keep it sounding nice and throaty a res frontpipe would be good currently. I just have a berk delete and the 1320 dual frontpipe I get a better deeper sound and zero rasp in fact at the lower rpms it sounds really throaty and aggressive but not obnoxious. I say if you want a louder exhaust but no rasp go with a single resonated front pipe. Because dual might make it a little too quiet for you lol.

Sorry for the late reply! but they’re definitely worth it as long as you follow the tips you’ll be all good lol. And trust me I know I’ve been wanting pops and just a tune ever since I got the frs but I’d be careful with the pops in the long run they do sound nice but after a while it can start damage your vehicle but that’s why we do research lol

It sounded good at first! but I quickly got tired of the rasp so I switched to a berk muffler delete which I think has a deeper tone and aggressive sound it gives it more of a rumble also.