Total system oil capacity is 10 oz. on a clean flushed system. If not its a educated guess as to how much to add. I would use PAG 150 for 134A or mineral for R-12. If the compressor is off the car, oil can be added via the drain plug on the side or suction inlet of the compressor. If its installed it can be injected before charging.

@bobsteinmann5793 thank you Bob!

that was very frustrating! Slow the frek down please! We want to examine all the parts and the order they go together. He did a video edit/skip over the disassembly and reassemble of the reeds.

Mineral oil

Thank you, lots of comments about braze vs. weld. I doubt most commenters have tried it to see for themselves. The tip I am using is a Victor 3-W-1

Nope. Just wanted to do a video....🙂

I know you are kidding... 😁

No, unit must be discharged and off vehicle.

Yes, they are basically the same. The 17 is just larger.

@@bobsteinmann5793 I finally am getting around to doing this but having a hard time getting the clutch off. It's a 10p17 compressor in a w126 Mercedes with the clutch PN of 047300-3880 Denso and Mercedes Benz 116 130 02 06. There was a small 12mm nut I removed but I don't want to force the clutch or pulley off. The clutch has what looks like internal threads on the center near the shaft, along w what looks like a woodruff key.

May be stuck on the key/shaft. There is a puller tho remove the hubs when stuck. However, I doubt they are still made. @@nicholasroche

@@bobsteinmann5793 Thanks bob! It looked like there was a latch inside a 'window' for the woodruff key on the shaft but it sounds like the clutch should just pull right off?

@@bobsteinmann5793 thanks - got it off with a puller from AutoZone. The outer stationary part of my replacement shaft seal had a part with a ridge on it, I'm assuming that faces the inner crankshaft side to ride the rotating side

It all depends on whether "The "Aluminator" rod has been fused and has melted with the base metal. Is the filler rod the same alloy as the aluminium tube? It is advertised as an alloy, but we don't know if it is different from the aluminium tube Bob is working with. If they are the same composition (or have the same melting point) and they are FUSED together, this is WELDING, if the rod contains different amounts of the alloy element (magnesium, silicon manganese, copper etc) and the melting point is (normally) lower, then we are looking at BRAZING if the base metal DOES NOT melt and fuse with the base metal. Pure aluminium is very ductile and not commonly used in any castings where strength is required. Mainly used in power lines. So all the aluminium alloys we will be working with are an alloy of some sort. Silicon brings down the melting temperature of the aluminium which makes it an excellent alloy rod for brazing, but if the base metal is also silicon aluminium alloy or has a similar melting temperature, then this is welding. Bob has melted the rod onto the base piece, but it did not melt the base metal.. Brazing and welding are not exclusive but can overlap. Unlike steel, if you apply a little too much heat to aluminium alloy base metal, your weld will be on the floor. If Bob had left the flame sit too long in one spot, the brazing would have turned to welding and if the flame wasn't moved away, to a fused blob on the floor. Now think of soldering a solder made plate. This is technically welding. Yes you can weld solder but because it has such a low melting temperature, "they" call it soldering. When you solder copper, what is it? It is brazing. If you are good enough to melt the base metal as you are adding the filling rod, you are welding even if the two metals are slightly different. There are many GREY areas in welding brazing and soldering, which is why it's better not to overthink them.

He melted the base metals together. It is welding.

@@moto_rad Had another close look at the video. No he did not melt the base metal. He brought it up to the melting temperature of the filler rod. The rod packet clearly states flux coated aluminium JOINING alloy. These filler rod have silicon and a much lower melting temperature than aluminum. So this is commonly called brazing. Aluminum has to be well heated before brazing and welding. With the latter, a fine pointed flame is used and you focus the heat to one point where the puddle will appear and will be translucent. If you melt some alloy into rgis puddle, it is welding. It is tricky to use these rods for welding because the base metal has a higher melting point. More than the melting temperature of the rod. To weld you have to keep the filling rod more distant from the base metal and bring it in as the translucent puddle appears. Very easy to have the base metal collapse as you juggle flame and low melting point filler. Much easier to weld with a high melting temperature filler rod. In this video, the pipe is heated but not melted. With such a feathered broad flame, if the melting temperature of the base metal was reached, it would probably end up on the bench.

The new seal fits in the same location that the ceramic seal would have seated. So it does bottom out and is retained by the clip just like the original.

Many Sanden compressors built before this unit may have a keyed clutch shaft. It is easily removed. Once it is out of the way, the procedure is the same and you will not damage anything as long as you use normal care. Yes you can do damage to the housing , and bearings if you are not careful where you place the tools before applying force. Thanks for bringing up the keyway issue.

@@bobsteinmann5793I have the old type of seal with Spring loading. Unfortunately i damaged it when i removed. Can i replace with the new type

@@mohamedakeel3282 yes, the lip seal type is a better option. you will need to purchase a lip seal installer/protector tool to do that. Also, kits come with an aluminum spacer ring that goes under the new seal to space it properly.

This needs to be done carefully so as not to damage the seal.

JJ SORRY Bob. Got cutoff. Please give me your address or Email so I can communicate with you. Thanks.