I made 1 engine out of 2. I found another engine with a spun rod bearing. I used the heads off that and the block. I used cam and crank out of the one in the clip. Had the crank polished. Standard bearings, reused 7 pistons, re-ringed them. One brand new piston and rod. And then reaaemblee everything with new gasket set. New hardware for the connecting rods and head bolts. New timing chain and lifters and oil pump. Ran well. Sold the truck after.

Yes. You need a 1.5 L liter timing belt alignment tool kit

DPTOOL Engine Timing Kit Compatible with Ford Mazda Camshaft Flywheel Locking Tools 1.4 1.6 1.8 2.0 Di/TDCi/TDDi ECOBOOST 1.6 Ti-VCT 1.5/1.6 VVT 2.3L 2.5L Cam Holding Tool 303-1097 303-1550 303-1556 a.co/d/ebJi2ra

Not quite

Gonna go with lifter - find out soon

Yes, I have a okish bi directional scanner. It’ll read live data. There’s never any codes stored and no check engine lights.. ever.. it apparently has been “deleted” and tuned.. so idk if the computer tuning they did took the computers ability to determine something is wrong out of the program but it doesn’t set codes.

​@@earlyhoursautomotive deleted and tuned sounds like they removed the DPF and certain components I.e sensors related to that system.. I would havea look there.. my diesel cruze had issues(wouldn't start) when I.e the pressure differential sensor wasn't working, so if you have those sensors removed and the person who did the previous delete didn't do it correctly that could be somewhere to start (my best guess)!!

@bubbascnickel thanks. Did your rpm’s jump up like it does on the video? Once they settle back down it’ll run and idle forever. Runs good but turbos bad… again.. this things terrible

I used cloyes kit.. but I used Melling on all the others I’ve done.

@@earlyhoursautomotive I just installed a cloyes kit also but the old parts I took off said cloyes with a GM part number. Wondering if your old parts do too. kzbin.infouIMfVduXX60?feature=share

Interesting.. yeah maybe they are. Idk. I saw on autotechmikes page he had a cloyes fail and ruined a engine. So I changed to Melling.. unfortunately I don’t think that’s made in US anymore

I had to swap out rear diffs with a good used one.

@@earlyhoursautomotive is that easier than a rebuild? How long did it take and did it work? Lol thanks for sharing

Had to go the to local salvage yard. - it was a time thing, needed it that weekend. So it took 4-5 hrs to swap out. I didn’t wanna wait for a ring and pinion, e locker diff.. and all the bearings and seals and set up the tooth contact pattern and backlash. Just wanted it the old one out and the gold used on it quick.

I recently sold this car. Sold it in 6 hrs for asking price. Trying to channel money into a bigger opportunity for me. My family was alittle sad but there’s others projects to get later.

@@earlyhoursautomotive That's cool. There will be more. Even though manufacturers are almost entirely ending all wagon models these days except bmw,Benz,Audi and VW all classic wagons are finally getting the love they always deserved. I'm a long roofs fan (suburbans,vans and wagons) as much as I love my 3rd Gen Camaros and have every one of them, I have 2 magnum wagons one a daily I alternate with my 3 suburbans the other magnum is apart for an LS swap. I had a 65 Impala wagon and my dad and mom had 65 and 66 wagons since I became an adult and why I want a 65 or 66 but family first,more projects will come as long as you dont live in Cali where they think almost unfixable rust bucket beaters tore up motorless are worth $10k. I hope you find whatever one you are looking for.i wanted my chevy mid engine Scooby van since I was about 4 and my dad gave her to me as my graduation present in 1991 33 years later I still have her

Yes I had to clean them as well since this is a direct injection engine.

I believe the regulator is part of the fuel pump assembly. The high pressure pump is driven off a cam lobe and is in series with the fuel rails.

So the sensor should be part of that high pressure pump.

There’s high pressure sensor on the fuel rail also. I believe that pump also had a sensor on it. But I could be wrong

Sounds about right, there is a sensor on the pump but I think the one I need is on the rail guess I have to take the intake manifold off

Yeah, it’s a real pain in the butt. Pretty hard to do but not impossible.

@earlyhoursautomotive What tool are you using to get the screw closest to the firewall?

I very fine tooth 1/4 inch ratchet with the socket. My 1/4 inch ratchet is very smooth. That brand is Matco. Honestly I can’t remember 100 percent either if I had to use a swivel also.

​@earlyhoursautomotive My hands are too big. A friend with smaller hands got 2 of the 5.5mm screws out, but he couldn't get the one by the firewall. I can't even get in there with the right tools. I removed the radio and can see everything, but can't reach anything.

Yeah, I was asked to do the job because the import dealership wanted too much money. The printout showed the check engine code was for the timing correlation. They recommended timing change and components. The owner of the car asked me to do it and I said sure. Went fine. Take your time. I think we got the kit off rockauto. And timing tools off Amazon or eBay.

Just was trying to keep it short. I’ll set up a tripod next time. Thanks for the comment.

I put the plastic white deal on first and then the actuator in after. Not sure if that helps

Thanks, I’ve had Holleys in the past also. I think I’m going to go EFI if this doesn’t get sorted out.

Thanks, in the second video I had the carb off and adjusted the transfer slot. After that I was able to turn both air screws 1.25 turns out.

It’s a electric fuel pump and it’s set to 5.5 psi

I think you’re on to something.

Yeah it’s a huge pain in the butt.

Basically made it saying and showing it can be done without removing the dash. It’s just a major pain in the butt. I’d still try to do it this way again, except, I recently hurt my right wrist and without it that turning power it probably is impossible to get it done that way.

Did you do a calibration on the actuator. I replace mine with a new one but it won’t switch to cold mode. So pull out actuator with connection attached and it keeps rotating to closed position.

​@@benitocorpuz6336 did you ever calibrate it? Having a similar problem replaced it and still not rotating fully and or stays on cold with a bit of towards the warm side and back

I didn’t have to calibrate it. But you may have to. When I was finished it worked fine as shown in the video

I think it took me 3-4 hrs. But I had a lift.. and I’m slow. But it’s a large pain in the butt. Little room.

That’s great!! Hahahahaha and yes, they both are ridiculous old and weathered badly.

Hi, yeah it’s been a while since I did the one. I remember being very frustrated doing it. I snaked it in and it was really tight and probably took some force.

Why didn't you put it on the video

Thanks for the sub. 🎉

Thank you

Haha, nice. Maybe if it was my own I’d give it a try. 😁

What engine did that one have ?

@@earlyhoursautomotive I think is was the 283 v-8.

Yes. They went through the engine

Wonder if the new part was defective.

IF you still have the old part, if not then pull he electrical connector to the part, check to see how many pins there are in the connector. My '05 Titan had the five (5) pin connector and the part I ordered from Amazon, which was to be a direct fit, had only two (2) pins on the connector. A trip to a local auto parts store and their computer showed what should have been another direct fit unit. The auto parts store part had the two (2) pin connector also. Thanks to a good parts man he kept looking and found that the part for a 2006 Titan was the direct replacement part with the five (5) pin connector. You may have put in the wrong part and the electrical connector may not be working correctly.

The video would be more helpful if you actually showed the part being taken out and the new one going in, for those that aren't mechanically inclined 😅

Thank you, yes I know. Unfortunately it would have made of a long boring video. It’s a struggle for sure but take your time doing it. Beats taking the dash out.

Oh for sure. Probably added 0.067% more HPz.

@@earlyhoursautomotive at least