Why’s your acceleration so low? ;)

@@brentvecchi4893 base on your response I take it you're offended.. nice build either way. I can do 30k but choose quality and better tunning over slightly higher accel.

No not offended at all! Just busting your stones. I tune to my max accel -25%. You may tune to max travel. We all do things differently based on our own goals. You run 48v X/Y right? You’ve got a bit more overhead than I do.

Also try 30k accels for at least your sparse infills if you can. You’ll see some good gains there.

@@brentvecchi4893 I see lol that when over my head my bad for assuming. I'm running 2209's 24v as well but you're correct we do things differently I was just really curious about travel speed especially with 30k accel would speed up print time as well

Hard to say. Put it together here and there for a couple weeks. I’d say a good 30-40 hours. It is not an easy build.

Self source. Kit didn’t exist until recently.

@@brentvecchi4893 There is a kit now? Where?

@@OnceShy_TwiceBitten Fabreeko in US. Might be able to ship international.

Can you share the 3d printer dimensions? Thanks

Sorry that was a while ago. No idea.

24v for everything

It's been a while but I think it may have been the Wood Magazine Easy-Build Workbench

@@brentvecchi4893 that's it, Thanks

Thanks! Two separate programs. Dual endstops make it a lot easier but still doable without them as in this example.

@@brentvecchi4893 awesome, thanks. I’m planning dual endstops on the build, so that’ll work. Forgot to ask- what program(s) do you use for design, gcode generation and sending?

@@neilphillips3193 I design in Illustrator and Fusion 360, Estlcam to prepare the gcode, and the SD slot or Repetier Host to run the machine.

@@brentvecchi4893 great, thanks. I’m getting into Estlcam, and about to figure out the best way for v-carve inlays using F-engrave and a python script I forget the name of. Thanks again

The official V1 Engineering forum is the best place to ask questions and get recommendations. My control board is an SKR Pro which is officially supported by the team. forum.v1engineering.com/

Hoping to get time to put a video together about them soon. Bigger steppers, 24v power supply, dual X motors, dual end stops, CF-PETG printed parts. A few more as well.

This is was just a milling test. I don't suggest using solid wood for the X plate. It will split or deform in any grain orientation in this application. It is best to use plywood, aluminum or any other strong, light sheet stock.

Using an SKR Pro 1.2 and the preconfigured V1 firmware on this build. There’s no home on this build either. A tool change is simply just another program using the same origin.

I plan on making my next video on this when there is some free time. Two off the top of my head is that once you learn the ins and outs it is a very versatile tool and you can make some pro level stuff with it. Check out the Lowrider gallery on the V1 Engineering forums and you’ll see what I mean. A downside is that to really get the most out of it you’ll have to put in a lot of tweaking and customizing to get it to the next level. There is definitely a learning curve but there is a great community to help.

Desculpe. Este vídeo foi feito para amigos verem meu progresso. Tudo o que aprendi está no site da V1 Engenharia. Link na descrição.

I did print everything myself. Very easy. My initial build was 2 colors - black and yellow. I got a spool of each and had leftovers. Basic PLA from Amazon.

@@brentvecchi4893 Thanks for the info, just trying to plan it all out for making one myself.

I managed it on an Ender 3 Pro. It took a couple of weeks to print them all. Adding in the cost of the 3d printer, it was still amazingly inexpensive. The single most difficult things to source were the stainless steel tubes as they weren't cheap (i paid about $100 for mine) and it took a while to find the optimal supplier as I had to source them mail order during 2020. I had looked into using stuff readily available at the big box home improvement stores (here in the US such as Home Depot), but nothing was suitable.

I ended up creating my own. Check the description in my latest video for links to the files on Thingiverse.

It wasn't hard for me and I'm a novice at best. The documentation and forums are more than enough to get anyone through the process.

Yes. The bit type, feed and speed would be different but can be easily done.

Here you go! www.thingiverse.com/thing:4700462

Firmware can be found here: docs.v1engineering.com/electronics/marlin-firmware/

That really depends on the bit since things like cutting depth and shank length vary. The thickness of your carriage plate and any hold-down surface protrusions would reduce the cutting depth as well. This router maxes out at a 1/4” chuck so that will put a limit on overall length of the bit. My longest bit has a 3” shank and that’s about as long as I’d go to reduce flex.

@@brentvecchi4893 I have a 2 1/2” but wit a 1” up it spiral. How deep will that go do yo think? Thanks!!!!

Works great!

No VO for this one. Maybe on the next video?

This is a Dewalt 611 palm router. And yes it does come with the sleeve. These were hard to get ahold of when I purchased mine almost a year ago but that may have changed. Highly recommended.

It’s really not that hard to figure out. GD software is much more complicated than CNC software in some respects so you should be Ok there. I built mine so I’m no help when it comes to consumer models. Just know what you are going to do with it before you buy one. They aren’t cheap!

Awesome! You should post it as a remix of my original design on Thingiverse so everyone can check it out. The original design is here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4752049

@@brentvecchi4893 ok, when I come back holiday I remix it, have I nice day ;)

Did you post your remix ?

It was a while ago and I don't remember exactly. Most important to the prints were thick walls and about a 40%+ high strength infill. Also used .28mm layer thickness for less chance for delamination.

As long as your tubing is a thick gauge and of quality manufacture you should be good. The stainless tubing I used was the most expensive and hardest to source component but well worth the cost in the end.

@@brentvecchi4893 Can you tell me the specific gauge or thickness you used? Thank you for your reply!

Thanks!

Thanks! The flat sections were cut from PVC sheeting. The caps on each end were 3D printed. Design files are in the description if you’d like to make them yourself.

@@brentvecchi4893 neat, did you cut them out via cnc or by hand? That's the part I'm most nervous about for my build

@@mileshh515 Oh sorry I misunderstood. You must be referring to the Y plate for the router and the mounting plates on each side. Those were cut from MDF by hand. The Y plate was then cut from polycarbonate once the CNC was up and running. The good news is that the most important area on these parts is the hole locations. Everything else can be ball park. It really is a well thought out design.

Thanks! Anything that is made of plastic is 3D printed. Belt clips and hold downs were designed by the community and are posted on Thingiverse. Sorry but I don’t have the links for you.

@@brentvecchi4893 may sound funny but I don't have a 3d printer

@@emmettbowen4431 There are online services that can 3D print parts for you. I don’t personally have any experience with any so I can’t recommend one. Really consider getting your own 3D printer for a project like this. A cheap Ender 3 is an amazing tool and can print everything you need.

You source/print them yourself or buy them at this link: shop.v1engineering.com/collections/lowrider-parts

Sir I need the machine I need your adress

I believe it was a Freud 1.25” Mortising Bit.