Darke Peak

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@FloatUnderWater Күн бұрын

How long did this take you in total, shops are saying 3-4 hours

@DarkePeak 16 сағат бұрын

@@FloatUnderWater it took me longer than that but I wasn’t in a hurry and I was filming as I went.

@FloatUnderWater Күн бұрын

All my local mechanics refuse to try and install these downpipes on this exact car they say they have to drop the subframe and it’s a difficult process but I’ve seen people do it without doing that

@DarkePeak 16 сағат бұрын

@@FloatUnderWater I did it in this video without dropping sub frame but it takes some careful wiggling to get the old ones out and the new ones in. It’s like one of those mechanical puzzles where something only comes apart if everything is on the perfect angle.

@wrblue08 Күн бұрын

Not surprised with the results. I’d only switch to a DCI if I wanted more sound or easier access around the engine bay.

@jimmybraden3334 4 күн бұрын

ah, say bro.. I got an N54 in a E92 335IS on the other side of the pond -and Im just trying to wrap my head around the master locks - thats just what you use for lifting eh?? - well thats cool... LOL

@DarkePeak 4 күн бұрын

@@jimmybraden3334 haha. No, they were locked on the end of the chain after I used it to secure a trailer to a tree. Now I can’t find the keys. Can’t bring myself to chop them off because a day later I’ll find the keys.

@lou007 10 күн бұрын

very nice demo....but from my experience TO simplify.... when assembled they used assembly lube or grease...& before starting the engine just remove the injector fuse and couple of turns and you're done primed...... fcp euro did a video about it... check it also m539 restoration done many oil pumps....

@peterrudd3730 10 күн бұрын

Good vid found helpfull only thing is didnt show expansion rates for tepms

@Icecreameliora 11 күн бұрын

Stfu there’s a reason you got no views tell me what size sockets I need and stop fucking talking

@MrAntonthedon 22 күн бұрын

Crazy I have the same problem on the same side as your car wires look pretty bad great fix idea But I have a bigger problem I changed the DRL bulb for the 2nd time and that same side flicker off and on so I just shut them off I'm considering getting the new after Market upgrade but do u think it's a bad fuse considering the continue to go off and on or a bad fuse wouldn't allow them to work at all?

@exiteternium 28 күн бұрын

what other options outside of head replacement are there? i noticed the valve head is very shrouded from the intake port, i would assume if you had the head in for porting and polish, you may get the old holes welded hut, then re-drilled?

@DarkePeak 26 күн бұрын

@@exiteternium this kit is a good option instead of replacing the head, but I don’t think it should be done in situ

@scorpioncubain Ай бұрын

Origin with KN is the best !

@trondaas9685 Ай бұрын

Hi. Some question to you regarding the ARP 2000 studs: - What is the total length of the stud ? - How long is the M11x1.5 treads (block end)? - How long is the 7/16" treads ( nut end) ?

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

I will take a measurement for you on the weekend

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

Total length 152mm M11 thread: 36mm 7/16 thread: 24mm

@trondaas9685 Ай бұрын

@@DarkePeak Thank you, it looks like the ARP stud used is ATP5.975-2B (Total length: 151.765 mm)

@trondaas9685 Ай бұрын

Hmmm, an alternative might be ARP ATP5.950-2LUB (Total length: 151.130 mm), this also have longer threads.

@gettin-sendy Ай бұрын

😂😂😂 Gold.

@DukeOfTwist Ай бұрын

What situation? Reminiscing chasing 1/2 million dollar race cars with stuff at a tenth of their cost. But still having fun doing it.

@Dope.And.Pretty Ай бұрын

It seems the GTR may be faster

@DukeOfTwist Ай бұрын

Feeler gauge inaccuracy had me laughing as there is no detail like the right detail.

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

I was scratching my head why the 24 thou feeler on one set slid straight through but the 24 thou on a different set didn’t fit. I’ve lived my whole life presuming they are all accurate.

@DukeOfTwist Ай бұрын

@@DarkePeak As we all have, trust your micrometer ;-)

@pirateradioFPV Ай бұрын

Most of the epoxy has a glass transition temperature between 80-105 celsius.

@heinzkot360 Ай бұрын

Whats the temperature coefficient on that particular epoxy ? I would live in fear not knowing wether the bores are getting ovaled by the epoxy pressing on it.

@M3rVsT4H Ай бұрын

There's a comment from the seller that offers some insight. Should be the first comment.

@user-mm1se7gy7e Ай бұрын

Devcon works great !

@JasmineJDMgirl Ай бұрын

Its called a exothermic reaction 😮😊 it creates its own heat just like fiberglass an polyurethanes all are exothermic resins 😮😅

@iswinkels Ай бұрын

I've use Devcon Liquid Metal products with similar success. Currently have over 10 years on my built RB block running around 800whp. They do products for steel and aluminium to match the thermal expansion coefficient of the block your using it in. These metal resins use low thermal expansion aggregate suspension in the resin to reduce its expansion rate to match the block. So they contain silicon, titanium etc. Which is why they kill your drill bits.

@ltruskinger Ай бұрын

Send me some samples and I will compression test them in our test machine up to 100kN in Melbourne

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

Wow! That’d be great. Please send me an email with your contact details so we can discuss: [email protected]

@th600mike3 Ай бұрын

@@DarkePeakno need. This epoxy actually is Nordbak Loctite. It’s for backing machinery. It enters a glass transition phase and softens at the temps your coolant sees. So this one works well in aluminum. There are a few others used in aluminum but I haven’t figured out the “high end” one. I did use this stuff in my sleeved block

@th600mike3 Ай бұрын

@@DarkePeakalso it’s good that this one is softened. You don’t want some epoxy that’s hard and rigid. If the epoxy doesn’t expand as fast as the aluminum (which is not easy to find), then the aluminum would crack and break. That’s what happens when you concrete fill an aluminum block. Instead softening helps to support the aluminum, and importantly helps with vibration. It’s the vibration that kills the more open deck modern aluminum blocks. Even if you welded a block solid, you can get cracking just from residual stress. So you want the epoxy to play nice with the aluminum, while supporting it

@th600mike3 Ай бұрын

What you saw it being harder to break when you boiled it and it was still hot, is just as you said it became tougher. Counter intuitively, toughness comes from a softened core in metals for example. It just allows the material to take more stress before breaking

@GarianWraps Ай бұрын

Hey Mark Heyward. Thanks for your in depth review! We found it interesting as well how it had the tendency to dull out drill bits and saws quicker than aluminum itself. Our epoxy itself does expand at the same rate as aluminum, and while this held true and accurate, we both observed is that it does have the tendency to fall on its face at temperatures >150c. That being said, if your engines getting that hot, you have bigger issues ;). Even after these intense heat cycles, it does return back to its initial state, retaining original compressive strength properties. Typical use at 100c will be no issues at all. All in all, great job with the review. Looking forward to seeing how it does in your engine, as well as the other reviews/tutorials as mentioned at the end of your video!

@AKAtheA Ай бұрын

do you have data on the strength at 100°C?

@GarianWraps Ай бұрын

@@AKAtheA100c is well within operating temperature of the epoxy

@AKAtheA Ай бұрын

@@GarianWraps what I was asking was more about how much support does the epoxy actually provide

@GarianWraps Ай бұрын

@@AKAtheAup to 20,000psi

@DukeOfTwist Ай бұрын

Perfect ;-)

@n54supreme Ай бұрын

I thought this kit was a scam? As alot of people mentioned they ordered the kit but it never came through?

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

Yes, I also got stuffed around by the guy that created them - got part of the order quickly and a bogus tracking number for the missing items. I threatened to lodge a PayPal claim and it was resolved within a few weeks. The sales are now handled by another company (Jarvis Tuning and they have another name that I can’t remember), but they seem a bit more reputable.

@lusher00 8 күн бұрын

@@DarkePeakI had the same problem. I got a tracking number but the parts never shipped. It was probably 6-8 months before I finally received my parts. They have been sitting on the shelf in my lab since then. I’m afraid to drill on my head so the car just sits in my garage. This was my mechanics fault to begin with but I didn’t feel like fighting with him and didn’t think I could win.

@DukeOfTwist Ай бұрын

See you at SMDC i'll be there in a C class V6 Merc. Bring on the Euro's

@user-br2db8vx5t Ай бұрын

You’re doing exactly what I’m doing. Filled my block drilled it all off that. I’m nervous with drilling the head and it being 100% centered. I don’t want to lift my head. Can you help?

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

I presume you are referring to the holes for the NS300L inserts. That kit comes with a locating dowel to centre the drilling guide over the existing hole. Shown about 1min40sec in this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHncYWqpn9yhecksi=ZTNMVGkEpNLls26a

@user-br2db8vx5t Ай бұрын

I already drilled and put the inserts in. I’m talking about drilling the head and keeping g the head centered on the block

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

@@user-br2db8vx5t ok, I cover the head drilling part about 34 mins into that same video (to centre the 11mm hole drilled in the head). Then the M11 corner studs is going to centre the head on the block. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHncYWqpn9yhecksi=xaYhShFZyOSPOsGc

@bridgetrobertson7134 Ай бұрын

You guys have dirt cheap machine work available to you. I can't even find a shop to do basic chevy motors. Much less anyone I would trust with a BMW. Especially the ones with coated cylinders like N52. So, I have a couple motors sitting around that I can't do much with.

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

Which part of the world are you in? I thought the prices I paid in Australia for machine work (decking, facing, honing) was very reasonable, but the US$750 for replacing valve guides and cutting seats seemed less reasonable (but still acceptable).

@josephkelly4893 Ай бұрын

Just found your channel bloke, great to see an Aussie with such depth of knowledge. Will be following your progress, motor looks like it’s going to go hard

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

Thanks 👍

@raymak6129 Ай бұрын

how strong is the epoxy? im deciding between this type of epoxy or the defcon aluminum paste

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

After drilling, cutting, filing and hitting it (leftover piece) I have no concerns about the strength. The current world fastest N54 is an epoxy closed deck (8.16s 1/4 mile).

@raymak6129 Ай бұрын

@@DarkePeak thanks for the info, this epoxy is def more user-friendly than aluminium paste

@ethanw1982 Ай бұрын

Great video of the build , inspiration for me to get back into mine! Thanks!

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

Thanks, what are your build plans?

@ethanw1982 Ай бұрын

Nice work, will you be looking at weight removal across the running gear etc? Exhaust, downpipes with cat converters, gearbox , wheels, etc all add up weight very quickly.

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

Yes, I’m expecting some reasonable gains from changing the exhaust but they might only offset the increase from the oversize intercooler. Also deleting the power steering. The 6hp21 trans will be replaced with 8hp70 which might be slightly heavier.

@CoyoteAUS Ай бұрын

Awesome video Mark 👍

@mcdoob Ай бұрын

Heck ya mark!

@Innoxiousx Ай бұрын

Just casually picking up main bearings in Israel 🤣

@DarkePeak Ай бұрын

Haha. Yes, just 3 days after Iran fired 300 drones and missiles.

@JesusSalasB 2 ай бұрын

Great Video!! what the name of the special tool?

@DarkePeak 2 ай бұрын

Try searching for: fuel tank cover removal tool

@urmother1893 2 ай бұрын

Brilliant video and very helpful, regards from NZ

@Innoxiousx 2 ай бұрын

Did you feel or measure any gains with these outlets on stock turbos?

@DarkePeak 2 ай бұрын

I did dyno testing after but not before. But my bum dyno says they may give a little more power in the top end (high rpm)

@Innoxiousx 2 ай бұрын

Really appreciate your insight into aftermarket parts for the N54. Keep it up 👍

@kkarnis3791 2 ай бұрын

Good info. How frustrating.

@jackantoun2216 2 ай бұрын

Do you think the seals can be replaced?

@DarkePeak 2 ай бұрын

Yes, but it’s a complicated process that needs to be done in an oil bath

@jackantoun2216 2 ай бұрын

@@DarkePeak i hope one day you can make it and share it with us. Thank you for your videos!

@thainydavid2263 2 ай бұрын

Hi Darke, thanks for sharing. By curiosity, does your TDI consume bit oil. Mine is 3.0 TDI Touareg 7P 2013, it burns ~0.12L/1000 km.

@DarkePeak 2 ай бұрын

Yes, generally about 700-1000mL per 10,000km. Thats 0.07-0.10L/1,000km. I’m >90% long distance highway driving so oil consumption might be a bit higher if I did more short/city driving. My engine has about 180,000km on it now.

@thainydavid2263 2 ай бұрын

@@DarkePeak I get the same feeling that highway may consume bit more. My engine is only 100k km. I top 0.5L every 5000 km. My technician told me that it is due to low ash oil and low tension piston ring. if the overall consumption is below 0.2L/1000 no need to intervene.

@Silent9n54 2 ай бұрын

Good job documenting everything, did you end up weighing the car as it sits now ? i got my e92 down to 3170 lb (1435KG) with a 6hp28 instead of the 21. Igotta get that sunroof delete asap, that its next on my list. Cheers !

@DarkePeak 2 ай бұрын

Wow, your 335i has provided lots of inspiration and a benchmark to aim for. Your 1/4 mile 9.68s @ 140 is what I hope to achieve. I’ll be using RB TD04 19T turbos @ 30psi, Reflex+, E85, 8HP70, Ford 8.8, 15” Weld, etc. Anyway, to your question: I couldn’t get the car to a weigh bridge before I started so I’m carefully weighing everything I remove and add, then I’ll weigh it when finished and work out what it would have been to start with. I’m hoping to be close to 1400-1420kg (3100lb).

@Silent9n54 2 ай бұрын

@@DarkePeak with your rear end and a 8hp trans you should be at 9.5 or lower at 30 psi, if you keep the weight down. Cant wait to see the results. Keep us posted.

@noahprzydacz4162 2 ай бұрын

Keen to see how she goes! Just wondering if you're going to be running the drags along the way to see progress

@DarkePeak 2 ай бұрын

Good question but it’s not feasible to drag race it at different stages of the build process. I will be drag racing it, but not until the build is finished. The engine was in a bad state (massive front main seal leak, turbo wastegate rattles, etc) so it wasn’t suitable to bolt on any upgrades without repairing those issues. I’m currently building the engine for 700whp and it would destroy the rest of the driveline if I attempted drag racing on the stock trans and diff. So they will also get upgraded before drag racing.

@BillCipher1337 2 ай бұрын

First of all thanks for your great video :) how long did you need for this job ?

@DarkePeak 2 ай бұрын

That was my first time doing it and I was filming the process, so it took about 4-6 hours. Removing and reinstalling the bucket assembly the second time took me about 2-3 hours.