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@danraihala5945 Күн бұрын
I like the video, so this is my understanding (Please correct me if I’m wrong). The vacuum comments were picked up from other videos but seem to be valid. All numbers are just for discussion: INITIAL TIMING: Set idle speed. Start car. Watch vacuum gauge for smoothest idle/highest rpm -around (18) with vacuum adv. this IS your initial timing after all other testing. This allows a hot car to start. With the VA connected, timing will be higher after starting. FULL ADVANCE: With no changes to the distributor, run up the RPM until full mechanical advance comes in and note the timing and RPM. This may be higher than max timing (42). Total mech advance is (24). We want total mechanical advance to be at (35), so we need to take out (24-17=7) degrees of timing out of the distributor by adjusting the distributor stops (add screws). Remove distributor,add/file screws to limit the bottom end of the distributor timing movement. The Full advance side should not be adjusted. Reinstall the distributor and re time to (18). Maximum timing at (2000) rpm should be 35 with no advance. VACUUM ADVANCE SETTING: At full mechanical advance rpm (2000?) and advanced plugged in, check the timing and write it down. (Ie. 50). again turn the distributor to get it smooth. Recheck the timing (ie. 45). The difference is (-5). This is the amount of adjustment to take (OUT) of the vacuum advance canister. Adjust the canister with 3/32 Allen wrench. As this process messes up the initial timing, re adjust the distributor to be at (18). At (2000) rpm we should now see (45) as max timing instead of (50). The process is now done and the distributor can be locked down.
@YODAMAN5 7 күн бұрын
AWESOME info, little J must be doing MOPAR stuff today....MOPAR 4 EVER.
@JeffLeblanc-xb7qe 8 күн бұрын
Not many w2 heads around anymore I haven’t seen a set of them for years I agree with that even x heads you will destroy the chevys
@planktonus 15 күн бұрын
Hillbillies 😂
@terryfellows2087 16 күн бұрын
Enjoy watching your videos. According to Holley, they said my power valve should be a 3.5. I followed your video and replaced the 3.5 with a 7.5 what a difference. No longer goes lean as I step into the throttle! Great video 👍
@talljohnsfunshop2722 16 күн бұрын
Ya holley and other make it a 1 size fits all the way they figured out how to size the power valve and I does work on most stock stuff but not on everything. Glad it helped you. Thanks for watching!!!
@YODAMAN5 17 күн бұрын
AWESOME info....MOPAR 4 EVER.
@talljohnsfunshop2722 16 күн бұрын
MoPar forever heck ya.
@brotherjesus4246 23 күн бұрын
Hi great video thank you very much for posting this I'm just wondering if you noticed an improvement in the shifts. I'm curious because I don't want to change that low reverse spring that you didn't change also. Once again thanks for the great video. Like and subscribed 👍
@talljohnsfunshop2722 23 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching. The shift did improve! At the level we chose it, I felt it was just right. It wasn't an annoying break on your neck, but there is little or no slip when it shifts. I'm very happy with the results.
@highman9836 Ай бұрын
Great explanation! Thanks
@4339jk Ай бұрын
What are you engine temps that far advanced...?
@talljohnsfunshop2722 Ай бұрын
They engine temperature is lower. When the timing is low, it forces you to open the throttle to maintain speed. This produces more heat. I drive this truck every day and tow a trailer to the racetrack almost every weekend. In the summer and the gauge never comes off the normal running mark. The radiator is old and original. Temp wise I can't say but it has a 180 degree thermostat. This has always been the situation on all my cars. Roadrunner, challenger, GTX.
@4339jk Ай бұрын
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 I ended up with 47 all in like you which kind of scares me. My gauge reads low but don't know if I could trust a 50 yr old unit. My infrared gun reads 240 at the block and I'm running straight water with hyperkool, don't know if I trust that reading either..
@nicholasagnew2792 Ай бұрын
Theres a video with 3 times as many views telling people they can re-phase a rotor by dropping the distributor in differently...face-palm.
@talljohnsfunshop2722 Ай бұрын
I've not seen that one, but wow. I've seen different subjects about ignition that are so wrong and just wish better for the folks. Peeps like us can only do our best. Thanks for watching.
@nicholasagnew2792 Ай бұрын
I recently discovered I have a Frankenstein distributor. 1970s Datsuns, theres an early distributor with a smaller cap and a later one with a bigger cap and I have a later big cap distributor with the earlier internals making it to where I can only use a smaller cap, which doesn't fit right. Somebody was on meth and it may have been the Hispanic truck-driver I bought the car from.
@talljohnsfunshop2722 Ай бұрын
Lol glad you told me about the Datsun, it brought back memories. The first distributor I ever recurved was a Datsun I think 1800 in a 520 truck. It's also the first manual transmission that I drove on the street. The recurve made a big difference and I've never looked back!
@andybrink1795 Ай бұрын
The audio quits around the 5 minute mark. I can’t hear you anymore
@talljohnsfunshop2722 Ай бұрын
I'll check it thanks
@4339jk Ай бұрын
I only knew one guy who always kept is valves adjusted on his '70 Duster and it was so odd not to hear that sewing machine sound but was so much better. You never knew it had slant in it...
@PaulBroxon Ай бұрын
Just watched your video. I have a 1977 chrysler town&county hearse, with the lean-burn system. I just bypass the lean-burn distributor with the conventional electronic distributor with the timing advance vacuum pot. It's running better but not under load. I also rebuilt the carter thermal quad. Some people say that I have to change out the carburetor too as well as the distributor. Can the engine use the carburetor it came with!? Or do I need to change it as part of the lean burn bypass.
@talljohnsfunshop2722 Ай бұрын
Hey paul. It's been a long time since I worked on a lean burn carb, but they were controlled through the air bleed system. In order to achieve what the computer was looking for for rich/lean. They can be modified to work without the computer, but ya need to have a handle on the air bleeds. It really is easier to replace the carburetor to a known good one.
@robertmiller1916 Ай бұрын
Love that 8 track tape player.A blast from the past!
@martintorres7129 Ай бұрын
Hello John, good morning. Can a car get negative mechanical advance Vs positive ?. Maybe I have the springs reversed placed on the distributor(tiny in heavier place and viceversa), with the vacuum off, it doesn’t accelerate evenly, unless I connect the vacuum, which I know this increases the advance and work better; With this, I’m not able to even measure the centrifugal timing !!😢 Please help !!!!!!.
@talljohnsfunshop2722 Ай бұрын
I have only seen negative advance if the wrong distributor is used. For instance , mopar small block runs reverse rotation to a big block. Low deck big blocks and small block distributors can be installed into each other and work, but the rotation is backward, and the advance will never work right. There are also marine applications that the engine runs reverse rotation, and these distributors won't work. In your case I don't know what you're working on but from what you do have here it doesn't sound like you have a reverse rotation distributor cause the vacuum advance would not do the right thing either. I'm not sure what you mean about reversing springs, but if it's what I think, no, that shouldn't change things. If you have more details, I will try to help if I can.
@martintorres7129 Ай бұрын
Thanks for your time answering my question. I don’t think it’s a wrong distributor either, because it started failing worse when I remove the heavier spring and spreader the tiny one, I do not understand why, I will put again the springs as were originally and try to measure the total time, before start modifying the springs, make this sense to you ?. Thanks again to help this old retired engineer to put this beauty on the streets . . , again. God bless you. BR
@martintorres7129 Ай бұрын
I am not sure if this is affecting, but I have changed 1 bbl to 2 bbl’s(318)carburetor, with horizontal admission multiple plenum vs the original vertical(which I believe the factory left vertical, because of mechanical links compatibility of older cars); I also changed the mopar EI module and used a GM 4 pins HEI, which provides better and faster spark; I’m aldo using a 60 K volts high energy MSD coil. Sorry, I hope I am not giving you too much information. BR
@theredwedge9446 2 ай бұрын
Tall John, I noticed my factory 3310-2 #21 plate has .039 rear idle feed restrictors and the jetted QFT and other brand have only a .020. That’s seems way too small. The secondary metering block upgrade comes with .030 idle feed jets. I understand there is no rear idle circuit but these restrictors do feed the secondary transition. Should they be drilled to factory .039 specs?
@talljohnsfunshop2722 2 ай бұрын
That's a great question. The short answer is yes, drill them. Those plates are made for any 4160 carb big or small. If the carb was a 390, you would be on the money with .020. But on you 750, the secondary butterfly has to open much further than a 390 would before fuel statr to come from the booster. When I build dual quad tunnel ram 600s, I open them up to .060 even on stock plates. It really comes down to how fast you want the secondaries to open. And how much signal there is available to get the boosters on the secondaries to moving fuel threw them. The higher the rpm and larger engine size, the easier it is to move the fuel with less throttle movement, meaning less hole size is needed. Thanks for watching great question.
@theredwedge9446 2 ай бұрын
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Hey TallJohn, hanks for the feed back. I just have another question. when using the QFT jetted metering plate, and a 3310-2 with the secondary power valve cavity in the rear of the main body, I noticed that QFT unit does not come with the steel backing plate or shim like the factory metering plate does. I don’t see where one is even available. Old QFT instructions say to run it as is directly on the main gasket. Wont this cause the gasket to collapse into the cavity in the rear of the body and cause internal leaks within the metering plate? Is there a steel backing plate made for the QFT unit? The factory steel backing plate does not match. Will running it without the shim plate be ok? Any recommendations? Thanks.
@rafaeltorres2886 2 ай бұрын
What an awesome build, and thank you for the narrative , Im really falling in love with the mopar small block engines.. Btw did you ever get it on the dyno?, if so what was the numbers if you dont mind telling.
@talljohnsfunshop2722 2 ай бұрын
As far as I know, it has not been put on the dyno. Jed has posted some updates on the engine, so when it goes, that's we're you will see it @Scotts speed shop.
@bbivens8263 2 ай бұрын
Thanks John! I put a 75 motorhome 440 in my 86 Ramcharger with a 1200 stall converter that actually is about 1400. I rebuilt the 440 for bottom end torque with a mild Crower cam. I had no real idea how to recurve my distributor and your videos were a God send. It has really made that 440 come to life when I hit the gas, I haven`t checked the mileage yet, still dialing in my Thermoquad. GREAT video`s and I really appreciate your knowledge and ability to make it simple. Again, Thank you very much!
@talljohnsfunshop2722 2 ай бұрын
Ramchargers are awesome. Back in high school, I got a cam for my truck from Crower, I believe it was called a baja torque master. Worked great on a 383. I love a thermoquad, I'm using one on my 76 d100 440, and I'm super happy with it. It took an adjustment on every circuit, but with the timing and carb right, I've been able to get 17 mph in town 13 great power , starts easy... I love it. Thanks for checking out the channel. More to come, just busy with racing now.
@arkman8109 2 ай бұрын
Thank you for a great video.
@apocolypse11 2 ай бұрын
This guy needs to make a supercharge slant 6 with ebay supercharger. Just for fun.
@martintorres7129 2 ай бұрын
Hi John, good afternoon !. I need your help; For some unknown reason in my Valiant Duster 1974, with electronic ignition and 2 bbl’s carburetor, with vacuum pipe unhooked and engine fully warmed, when I accelerate, the time got retarded rather than advance, Why ?????. Pls help needed 🙏!!!!. BR
@talljohnsfunshop2722 2 ай бұрын
I know of only 1 possibility, a distributor for a 361,383,400 or low deck big block mopar will install in a small block and will make spark, but the timing will retard. Because big block distributors run counter clockwise and small blocks run clockwise.
@martintorres7129 2 ай бұрын
Hello John, I’m a little confused here; Since you have full vacuum timing, how do you adjust timing(3/32 Allen), if your vacuum pot input is occupied all time with the vacuum pipe ?. Thanks for answering. God bless you. BR
@talljohnsfunshop2722 2 ай бұрын
If I'm reading this right, if you need to change the settings just disconnect it. The engine will slow but that's OK, make your change. If you meant something else type away. Thanks for watching.
@scotfield3950 2 ай бұрын
Love your videos
@franciscotrujillo4961 2 ай бұрын
Si la chispa salta del rotor a la tapa ( hacia el cable de la bujia) presentaria un zona un poco quemada en el rotir y perderia potencia el motor por no tener suficiente chispa la bujia para quemar bien el combustible? Un saludo
@talljohnsfunshop2722 2 ай бұрын
There will eventually be a burn mark and that's why the rotor and cap need replacing on occasion. As far as spark, if the coil is in good shape it should handle the jump between the rotor and cap. Any time the plug gap and the rotor gap are increased this forces the coil to make a higher voltage. If a coil is in good shape this is a big advantage to making power, economy
@franciscotrujillo4961 2 ай бұрын
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 gracias por su respuesta , ahora estoy más convencido de que el rotor no se alinea bien en el momento de salto de chispa con el borne del cable y por eso necesita una mezcla mas rica de combustible , de ahí en carga el humo negro y la falta de potencia o nervio , además creo que lo adelantaré a 12° el avance y no a 8 ° como viene en el manual , porque el otro motor que tengo igual está a 12° y se le nota más nervio y mucha mejor respuesta al acelerar, un saludo
@glennappelgren5492 2 ай бұрын
Great video , thanks !
@JimmyLoose 2 ай бұрын
Can you please tell me what the purpose of the spring with the elongated loop is for? I've watched dozens of videos on Mopar distributors and no one mentions it. Thank you.
@talljohnsfunshop2722 2 ай бұрын
It's purpose is at the end of the video. It's so small carb engines can have a touch more HP on the top end rpm
@JimmyLoose 2 ай бұрын
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 I meant specifically the elongated loop. It makes for a lot of slack when the weights are closed.
@talljohnsfunshop2722 2 ай бұрын
The answer is the same. Total timing meaning initial and centrifugal timing is considered as total. Then with vacuum. If you have vacuum advance. So Total is figured at wide open throttle. So the centrifugal comes in and totals out at the end of the big spring loop. Then as the rpm increases with a small carburetor the cylinder fills less and less so the actual compression pressure decreases. So at that point the timing can go higher. At the higher rpm, the weights in the distributor get heavy and work against the loop and increases the timing further adding just a bit more power. Hope this helps but if not, ask away!
@JoHa-dl5zr 2 ай бұрын
Better than the instructional video, is the interaction, companionship and relationship between you and your "helper"... Just doesn't get any better than that.. kudos to you, my friend.
@brianparsons930 2 ай бұрын
I remember using the stock jack for my mom's valiant to change the motor motor mounts by putting wooden blocks under the motor and letting the car down to take the weight of the motor off the mount. So glad it didn't tear up the paint job.
@talljohnsfunshop2722 2 ай бұрын
Haha that awesome
@user-ss5vx8sj7r 2 ай бұрын
I think a farm tyrannosaurus chased you and bit your tire. Good video guys, keep em coming, please!
@YODAMAN5 2 ай бұрын
AWESOME vid, great time spent with little Mr Cotter Pin....MOPAR 4 EVER.
@vernrosenburg5410 2 ай бұрын
Tall John thank you for video. It reminds me of information that I haven’t used in 20 years.
@TsGoodTimesGarage 2 ай бұрын
Always a good day when you have all the right stuff in the trunk!
@alwaysabeliever108 2 ай бұрын
Bummer dude !! I'm happy the spare had air !!
@talljohnsfunshop2722 2 ай бұрын
I checked the air in it about 10 years ago...I check it about every tune up
@blakegaddis946 2 ай бұрын
It's always good to see your videos. Thanks, John and Jacob!
@JustMoparJoe 2 ай бұрын
Jack her up and don’t lose a lug nut! 😂
@roadhardrestorations 2 ай бұрын
Making memories for the boy!
@felixlafuente9714 2 ай бұрын
Hello!! We missed you, its great to see you. Say hello to Jacob too.
@davidnee6157 2 ай бұрын
Thank you for sharing. I believe this will fix MY problem, which my rotor is out 10-11 degree. (MSD 6AL-2 Programmable installed)
@tysonking1805 3 ай бұрын
hey John, thanks for the videos! When calculating total mechanical do you count the mechanical that's out at idle? Ive got my initial at 18 and to start I put my fbo plate at 14 for 32 but on the a sun machine due to the weights being out at idle, I dont get 32, more like 27 minus the idle mechanical advance. Woukd you still call thay 32? Thanks again!!
@talljohnsfunshop2722 3 ай бұрын
Yes, you count the movement as part of your total. Because you are using a FBO plate, you know your initial must be 18, so when I have movement at idle, I just set the timing by total. I prefer to have the advance all in or all out at idle. The reason is, when you set your idle speed and mixture, if the timing is moving around your idle will change also, so sometimes the idle will be fast and sometimes maybe ready to stall. It's worse with a automatic then manual because the load In drive will slow the engine and the timing will fall off and the engine might really try to stall. It can just cause your idle to just be all over the place. I set mine all in but that scares allot of people so for some I'll set it to move just above idle. Sorry for being so wordy. Thanks for watching.
@bvbberserk 3 ай бұрын
Very interesting video, thank you for sharing your knowledge
@Music12372 3 ай бұрын
Question. I have a 1972 Pontiac Lemans 350 bored .030. I just rebuilt the engine(first time) but was being meticulous. Engine runs the smoothest with the most vacuum of 20-25 with the timing mark one inch before the timing mark pad. If i give the engine a quick throttle the engine revs up and does a hard stumble. I verified the timing mark with a piston stop, verified the cam is correct with the vendor. I did install and aftermarket HEI. When I set the timing with vacuum hoses plugged at 10 degrees before TDC the engine vacuum drops to 15. Could the hard stumble be caused by the springs in the distributor or something to do with the Holley two barrel carburetor? Any information is appreciated.
@talljohnsfunshop2722 3 ай бұрын
Hey Music12372 thanks for watching. My first guess would be the carburetor accelerater pump. Let's verify a couple of things first. Is the 20-25 inches of vacuum from you adjusting the distributor or from the vacuum line attached to the carburetor? If you have vacuum and your hose is attached to the normal spot on the carburetor (ported vacuum) this would also implicate the carburetor. I wouldn't say it's the springs because 10 degrees timing is very normal for factory timing and factory stuff doesn't stumble.
@Music12372 3 ай бұрын
I went ahead and readjusted the valves, I torqued them to 20ft lbs per the book but think this was too tight with aftermarket lifters. I went back and set them with zero lash+1/2 turn. Helped smooth out the vacuum guage a bit. I was concerned because it fluctuates more with the timing set at 10 degrees but a little less fluctuation with the valves readjusted. I guess I was trying to set the engine for the smoothest idle and hightest vacuum with all vacuum lines plugged. I went ahead and put the timing back to 10 degrees even though the vacuum dropped from 20 to 17-18 and reconnected the ported vacuum to the distributor. Car seems to start much easier and run pretty smooth. It still seems to stumble when I step on the gas. Its not a cutting out type of stumble, almost like a powerful jerk of the engine. Hard to describe. The car is under restoration and not driveable at this time. Maybe if the driveline is under load it will not do this, I don't know. I was thinking the stumble was caused from too much mechanical and vacuum advance. Bought a distributor spring kit to put in but with the car starting easily and running smooth at idle I'm a bit scared of screwing things up. I did buy a carburetor rebuild kit, I don't want to create too many variables before I start messing up the fuel system. I may have to wait until the car is roadworthy and test it under load. Thanks for any suggestions.
@dahut3614 3 ай бұрын
That exhaust valve seat was okay?!
@talljohnsfunshop2722 3 ай бұрын
Haha yes. What's funny is that cylinder has the highest compression than the rest. 125 to 130 all the way around and that one is 135.
@dahut3614 3 ай бұрын
Maybe don't call those distributor cap terminal electrodes reluctors so the other kids don't laugh at poor Jacob someday.
@olikat8 3 ай бұрын
W-2's are neat, legendary head for the era. With restomods, like I do, aluminum offerings are a better choice these days. Fuel formulations (street cars), cost, flow, handling of higher compression & heat dissipation- hard to beat the aluminum offerings. Street small block with a performance bump, reliable & "Budget" but great for daily usage? A set of '308'/360 engine castings with a little clean up done and it's a really phenomenal combo for not a ton of cash
@SKYNET9er 3 ай бұрын
Was that dist. firing intermittently? Or spot on?
@michaelmenard8913 3 ай бұрын
where to get mallory springs maybe?
@jenniferburton6971 4 ай бұрын
Great video.
@stuckinmygarage6220 4 ай бұрын
Hello, Tall John and Jacob, Does anyone sell something to allow a larger cap on my stockish Mopar disti? My goal was to increase that separation you pointed out. Those GM HEIs caps look large. Thanks and best wishes
@talljohnsfunshop2722 4 ай бұрын
I don't think anything like that is made. You can buy a gm style distributor for your mopar and put a cap on that takes an external coil, and you can use the mopar box if you want to do that.
@stuckinmygarage6220 4 ай бұрын
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Thank you and good weekend!
@M_Phipps0520 4 ай бұрын
Birdsong