It has helped many riders get it to an acceptable level. Sadly, the geometry is Judy wrong on the rear. The angle the rear suspension runs, (almost 45°) along with the limited travel, and the tender spring having way too much coil, makes it tough to get dialed in. Do not, and I can't stress enough, do not waste your money on Elka shocks. I did. Stage 5s, and they're worse than the stock. Just keep working with your stock setup and you'll get there. Takes notes, adjust, ride. Repeat.

@@ironheadbiker Thanks for the info and I'm to cheap to spend money on Elkas lol Sorry they didn't work out for you, is that because of the geometry of the 950 suspension setup?

@FANATICALSIDERIDER a couple reasons. They don't use a crossover ring, so you have to fully compress the tender spring before it transfers to the primary springs. My local Can Am dealer is actually a professional suspension guy and he showed me the geometry is bad. Then he showed me how the rear suspension on an X3 virtually runs straight up and down, and THRU the body to acquire it's 20" of suspension. The zforce only has 10". They wanted to keep it under the body, so they ran it backwards at an angle to try to get a much travel as they could. If you watched the unveiling of the new 2025 zforce (now delayed until 2026), they switched to a vertical suspension going up thru the body, and went to Fox shocks. The prices they were advertising reflected it. So I did some searching and actually found a new 2024 X3 maverick 135hp turbo for $17,400. I sold my zforce for $16,000. I added a windshield and roof and a few other things, but I can say this. My X3 floats over the roughest of terrain. Little to no adjustment of the suspension needed at all. My main reason for switching was the leg room. I've had many knee surgeries and have been on some longer rides where they started hurting bad. The x3 is a little tighter to get into, but once in, I can damn near straighted my legs, and I'm 6'4". I've had it since September and have 1,800 miles on it, and I love it. My zforce was sold with 2,600 miles on it, and never an issue with it. But I never could get the ride to an acceptable level. We rip quite hard, for most of the day. By day's end I was used up. The largest mistake I made was buying the Elka's. I actually feel cheated. The stock was better.

Go buy some stainless steel "Lift off" hinges. There's no pin to pull. Just lift up on the door and walk away. I switched to them and they're much better

@ironheadbiker would 1/8" thick be too thin? I'm having trouble finding 1/4 in a 4x8 sheet

It really comes down to the snow. How deep, how heavy? (Wet). I think I'd go V blade if possible. The largest issue you'll have is, if you angle it, the weight of the resistance of the snow you're trying to move, doesn't push the front of your machine to the side. My pusher is around 1,100lbs and it sometimes seems too heavy. Having the ability to angle it would really help in forward push.

@ I’ve had a couple people say I’d bend cylinder rods or the loader but I feel as long as I go easy and check out where I’m plowing ahead of time I should be fine. I may build a v-blade next if this works good and we get a decent snow here in VA. Thankyou.

Yeah, they're quality doesn't meet their pricing

Thanks for the kind words. Sadly, cfmoto has had a long history of an. Over sensitive throttle. Check with redneck garage and tell him your setup to get a smoother clutch kit. Probably 18g weights instead of the 20g factory ones and a different spring. Your rebound, if not properly set up will make the rear end "buck". It's the spring snapping back too fast. Mainly when the wheels are off of the ground. Your might be surprised to find tht the low speed will also affect the ride thru whoops. You're at least in the fine tuning stage. But the jerky throttle is mostly likely your clutch weights. It's amazing the difference just 2g on each weight makes.

I appreciate your response. I've caught a lot of "flak" because I guess I'm not selling anything, and I dare say the stock suspension are a great suspension, they just need tuning. After buying and running the Elka stage 5s, I can honestly say the stock are just as good, if not better. I feel I wasted $3,500 on these oversold, under tested Elka's. They are a "game changer", they're a waste of money. They're not a true dual rate as they don't even come with a crossover nut, so you're not going to use the main spring until the tender spring completely compresses. I tried calling Elka once a day, for 5 days in a row, leaving messages each time I have yet, (and know will never) to get a response. I'm just trying to keep others from making my mistake, and not buy the "cfmoto suspension is junk straight from the factory" bullshit. Put a little work in adjusting, and save a ton of money. Cheers

I went to 32x10x14. No mods needed, but more strain on the drivetrain. Could void a warranty if failure as a result of the larger tires. You'll also have to switch the clutching and helix at that size. I'd stay stock, maybe go 30x10x14, but it's all personal use and preference. I liked the 32s but the added center of gravity and extra work i had to do on clutches and a helix got expensive.

Good luck. Hopefully it's an easy fix

Glad it helped! Simple fix. Cheers

You're welcome very common issue, and an even easier fix, which is rare. Cheers

Thank you. I added stainless steel lift off hinges so there was no pin to pull, just lift off.

You are welcome. I'm glad it helped yet another. Cheers

Good info. I'm glad you found my video helpful. Sadly, I bought the elka stage 5s and they are an absolute disappointment. I honestly feel my stock suspension was set up better than the Elka's. Furthermore, I tried calling Elka in Canada 5 times, once each day, 5 days in a row, seeking help with my issues. Each time I received a message saying "they're busy helping other customers, please leave your name and number, and we'll get back to you." I never received a call back. Absolute horseshit customer service. It was the largest waste of money I spent on my machine.

I'm glad it helped. I had already ordered my Elka stage 5s BEFORE I figured out these settings and once I put my $3,500 Elka's on, I sadly found out I could not get them dialed in. The factory ones rode better. It was such a disappointment and waste of money. It was always the rear end. I would implore anybody to stick with the stock and not make the same mistake i made. Cheers

That's only 8.5 ounces. It should easily fit.

2021 polaris. I cut them in the dash. Thanks for the kind words

@@ironheadbiker thank you so much man have a nice day

@danielochoa3770 you as well.

Thank you. You are welcome

I'd be curious to see what parts you're talking about. Thanks.

Hi~ We have mower blades that need video. Could you send us your email address for business inquiries? We also have other parts for many machines.

Sure, I'll try out the blades for you.

Glad to hear that! Could you send us your email address for business inquiries?

You are welcome. Yeah, I'm sad to say I have given up on my z950 ho ex and sold it last week. It was a great entry-level machine, but I bought a can am x3 maverick. The next chapter begins

@@ironheadbiker you are a speed freak, I get it. Enjoy, (and you will), your new ride. I live in the desert and the CF is great for me .Have Fun!!

Yeah not always, but I do like to open it up when I can. After having 2 cfmotos, my frustration with their support, literally every clutch needing aftermarket work to make them adequate, and the limited accessories, it's just time to move on. Then new ones released yesterday look promising, but what new issues will arise, and how long until parts are available? Time will tell.

Awesome news. You're very welcome.

You are welcome. So easy to fix, and a load off of thy mind. Good ol youtube saves the day! Cheers

Glad I could help you Dustin. I was so stressed when I first had the issue, but 10 times more relieved when I found out how easy it was to fix. I've had not 1 issue since.

You're welcome. I'm glad it helped.

Hard to guess. Start out on checking to see that the relay and flasher are all led rated because the low voltage could throw off a standard relay, or flasher. Also if you are using the rear brake lights as a turn signal, that also could cause the same issue like it did on my z950 ho ex. I just ran a separate brake/ turn/ running light instead.

Lol. I'm glad it helped! You are very welcome!

It's awesome! Best thing I've ever done mowing wise. I'll never want another zero turn again

There's a lot of variables that come in to play. One size doesn't fit all, for sure. Weight is a huge factor on the preload. There's tons of adjust, the bad is that it's only roughly 10" of travel.

Awesome I'm glad it helped

Yeah that's great info. The tender spring isn't even close to what it should be. I ordered elka stage 5s and have nothing but regret with them. I wish I would've pursued changing the springs on the stock ones, because I really feel like I've wasted $3,500.

@@ironheadbiker I looked at Elka and it would have costed me more for the shocks than I paid for the vehicle so I went with a cheaper alternative. Took it for it's first ride today and it was Fantastic!

Glad it could help you. You're welcome.

Add it to the list of all it helped. Crazy it's so simple, yet debilitating to the machine. I haven't had an issue since. Glad it helped you. Cheers

Yeah I welded up some spare rebar into T shaped pins. Worked like a charm. But getting those rocks out of the V's was quite a pain.

You are welcome

Right. Lol. Man I love the finish mower. Sold my zero turn the next weekend and have never looked back. The fuel savings alone is well worth it, but the fact I don't get clippings blown all over me and the rest discharge is awesome.

Did you reach in and work the lever where the pto goes into the case back and forth? Mine took quite an amount of working before it freed it up?

@@ironheadbiker I have almost zero room to maneuver the lever because it is directly behind my trans fluid filter housing. It moves freely if I use a screwdriver to pry it against the spring tension. The dealer said he's seen it where the shift fork and or the item it engages get so worn it literally just slips past and will no longer engage/disengage.

Damn. Kubota has a known issue and should make it right. I wish they just had the old levers. Dumb, but strong.

Thank you. I've had dozen of guys have great luck with it. I bought the stage 5 Elka's and the regret and disappointment had been immense. The front are nice but my rear ride like a lumber wagon. Ain't much if any better than stock once the stock are adjusted properly. I've had several guys message me with the same issues with the Elka's.

Man you almost got all the boxes checked! I'm not a big fan of paper filters, especially in high dust areas. I had way too much dust down stream of my stock filter. They've come a long way, still they have a few areas that could get better.

Why even open your mouth? Dipshit

Thank you! Cheers

Lol. I know what you mean! Thanks about the machine, I F'N love it. Soooooo much fun to drive. I love kawasaki as well. If we here in the socialist society of Wisconsin were allowed to have a 68" wide machine, I'd have a KRX. There sure is some beautiful country up there, eh? Lol. I rode my Harley up to Alaska back in '04. Tent camped the whole way. The year of all the fires up there. 🍻

Absolutely my favorite addition. The stability is awesome.

NP. Good luck.

I was able to reach everything from the floor underneath. And yes, the low speed affects more than you would think as well. Also with the side to side wandering, don't be afraid to run in for wheel drive. With both rear tires locked in, as soon as they spin, they want to "pass", skidding or spinning tires will choose a side because they're faster than a tire that's got traction. You'll be amazed at the control you gain in having the 4x4 in. Think rally car. As your rear tires spin the front will pull you to keep you straight.

It can been done on the machine, but tricky. I took mine off, just a bolt on top and bottom. Lift the machine and get the weight off. You need good spanner wrenches, not the cheap tool kit one. I used a ratchet strap to compress the spring to take the pressure off of the top retaining nut. Clean the threads as best you can, loosen the locking nut and then spin the lower nut down. Measure the lowest part of the nut to the top of the spring to make sure both sides get adjusted the same. It can be done on the machine, but it's tough to get a wrench up in there. If you try to do it while it's on the machine, put the ratchet strap on the springs while it's sitting on the ground, then when you lift the machine, the tension will already be relieved. When you release the ratchet, make sure the spring is seated properly in the stopper nut.