For the 975XL 2" or smaller line size to drain the water out you just need to turn your supply off and open the test cocks and that will drain the water out of most of the assembly. But because of the design you need to take the cover off of the #2 check valve that sits behind the relief valve and the cover points down to the ground at an angle. After you get the water out then put the cover back on for the winter. The relief valve will not be an issue. But if you want to make sure you can remove the relief valve cover and let the water out, which may require pulling the diaphragm away from the housing. Sometimes they get stuck there from being bolted tight. Then make sure the handles on both ball valves are turned to a 45 degree angle to leave the valve part way open to lessen the chance of the ball valves from freeze damage. As far as if yours is still good or not I couldn't say without examining it. Even then sometimes you can get some warping that is difficult to see. If it was full of water you could have damaged the housing. Look inside the housing of both checks. You want to look closely at the seam where the two body halves are joined together. That is where you will typically find cracks and separations. These do not always go completely through the body to cause it to leak on the outside but it does make it so components can't seal.

I need more information. Do you have the model 720A? What size is it? Did you have freezing temperatures assuming it is outside? Have you taken it apart to inspect the parts? If you want you are welcome to call me at 801-355-6736 or email me at [email protected]

Yes. I don't think it matters much with the test cocks. It is possible for them to get freeze cracks but if you want to try and move the slot to 45 degrees you can. Remember every quarter turn is open and close so you want to be in between the open close points.

If I understand you correctly you want to shut your water off to your sprinkler system and winterize the backflow assembly and sprinkler system. You should have a shut off valve in your basement or deep in the ground that shuts the water off to the system. You don't want to use the one on the inlet side of the backflow assembly because that will leave the pipe leading to the backflow assembly full of water and you can freeze and break that. And the ball valve. Find that ball valve and shut it off. Then open the test cocks on the backflow assembly. Test cocks four small valves that have a screw slot on it. A quarter turn opens it and that will drain most of the water out of the assembly. Depending on your model of assembly you my need to take a cover or two off to finish draining it. There is no need to blow through it and most manufacturers recommend you don't. People do it because that is where the easy connection is. You should have a blow out valve after the backflow assembly but most people don't. If you do hook up to the backflow I would hook up to the last one in the direction of flow. When you are done turn the handles on the ball valves to a 45 degree angle so the ball valves are not all the way on or off. That is the best way to keep those from freezing. If you have more questions you can call me at 801-355-6736

if the screw slot is turned in line with the flow out the testcock that is open. If the slot is turned across the test cock it is off. Every quarter turn is open close. It doesn't tighten, it is just a ball valve you are turning on and off. If water is coming out of it turn it a quarter turn either way. If it turns the water off leave it there . If you need to call me you can. 801-355-6736

sorry for the delay. 801-355-6736

I didn't realize I never have done an entire repair video on this. I will have to do that. But until then here is a video from Zurn Wilkins channel, kzbin.info/www/bejne/maW8oKGEfNSaf6csi=r8dVZ-TlZI9H73RE

Sorry for the delay in responding. You can email the picture to me at [email protected] and confirm the model and size and the issue and I will get back to you.

Eddie, this would be something you would want to contact your sewer department. Depending on the age of your system it may be geo tagged. Some people see them sticking up above the ground a little bit. Sometimes even asking neighbors where theirs are can give you an indication where to look. To my knowledge they are all going to be accessible from outdoors.

I don't think I ever did that video. I would have to search the videos.

I am guessing when you activate zone 1 and the PVB leaks, it means it is dumping all the water that would be going to the zone. Is that correct? Does this do it on any other zone? It sounds like you are losing too much pressure after the PVB. Either there are too many heads on the zone or there is a break between the valve and the heads. For some reason too much water going out and not enough pressure to sustain the float of the PVB to keep it sealed. Call me if you need to and we can talk. Sean, 801-355-6736

No. It is not normal. Make sure the screw slot is turned straight across the valve. Every quarter turn is open /close. If it is then it might be time to change the test cock or you can go buy a 1/4" brass plug, teflon it and put in if it is a female ended test cock. If it has a male end then buy a cap. Or you can replace the test cock. I am guessing your assembly is a 1" or smaller line size so that means you need a 1/8" male fitting (that goes into the body of the assembly) by a 1/4" female, or by a new one. Here is the link to the test cocks on our site. backflow-supply.com/search?q=test+cocks&options%5Bprefix%5D=last

@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 I thought I had it stopped but now it's not just dripping but more like spraying out where the plastic plug fits. I tried to teflon tape the plug until I can order something but that didn't work either. How do I know which size plug to order and does it need to be lead free? Thank you!

@@robertkoellisch470 Is the screw slot going in the direction of the flow or across the test cock. It should be going across the test cock. If you need a plug in it for now and it is a female test cock you need a 1/4" male plug. If it is a male flare fitting you need a 1/4" flare fitting (cap)with an o-ring on it to stop it.

I wonder if you have a different model. Both of these are the Wilkins 720A. I wonder if you have the Wattts 800M4 PVB? kzbin.info/www/bejne/qaK8pKuAf9Bro5Y Watch this and see if it helps. You are welcome to send me pictures to [email protected] or call at 801-355-6736

I am not sure which size you have. 1" is most common, but here is a link to the parts for the 3/4" backflow-supply.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.watts_models=800M4&filter.p.m.custom.sizes=3%2F4%22 and the 1" backflow-supply.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.watts_models=800M4&filter.p.m.custom.sizes=3%2F4%22 just depends on if you want just that part or a complete kit. Call me if you have questions Sean 801-355-6736

I am not sure I am following your question. You had the assembly tested and it failed? That is a possibility. The air inlet could have opened below the required 1.0 or the check valve in the bottom could have leaked or not held at 1.0 or above. This would require perhaps a simple cleaning or rubber parts or complete parts. Hard to determine without seeing the components and knowing what the issue was in the first place. You are welcome to call me at 801-355-6736 and ask for Sean or email me at [email protected]

@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Yes I had the pressure tested and it failed. Otherwise, its functioning fine zero issues.

@@shanew7361 Maybe I need to clarify. Did someone come out to do a specific backflow test, using a gauge and they hooked a hose up to it? Did they leave a copy of the report?

@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Correct, and no report was given. I'm having a different plumbing company retest it.

@@shanew7361 Make sure you ask them to explain why and how it failed so you know what you need to fix it.

You can email it to me at [email protected]

it is not uncommon for a new install to leak. There could have been debris, such as rocks, sand or rust in your pipes that when turned on got stuck in the #1 check. I am assuming this is on a lawn sprinkler system. If so turn a zone on that will get more flow going through the heads than what is coming out of the relief valve. If it stops leaking out of the relief valve when the zones are running the problem is in the #1 check assembly. If it doesn't it is in the relief valve. Almost always it is in the #1 check assembly. If you determine it is in the #1 check take it apart and look for rocks, rust, even teflon tape or pipe dope. Clean it out, flush the line for a minute or so with the part out and the cover off then reassemble and try again. If you still need assistance you are welcome to call me at 801-355-6736.

Maybe you have resolved this already. But the first thing to do is to get a flow going through the backflow assembly greater than what is coming out the relief valve. I am assuming this is going to a lawn sprinkler system. Even though it is dumping water turn a zone on that will get the required flow of water and observe if it stops dumping. If it does you know there is an issue in the first check valve. If it doesn't it is an issue with the relief valve. It is not uncommon on a new install for debris in the line, rocks, rust or other debris gets flushed into the first check. Take it apart and see if that is your issue, inspect the rubber and the seat to make sure they didn't get damaged and put it back together and turn it on again. Hopefully it doesn't dump again. But sometimes it will and it could still be more debris in the line. I have seen a few issues with the relief valve in the last year in brand new units. So far I have not been able to determine the cause but have provided those that brought the unit from me with a new relief valve and it has solved the issue. This is rare. You are welcome to call me at 801-355-6736 if needed. Ask for Sean.

Thank you very much.

If you are referring to the two assemblies in front of me in the video, the old one is a 1" and the new one (the left) is 3/4". But the bodies are the same for 1/2", 3/4" and 1". You will be able to find the size raised in the brass on each of the ball valves. It will be marked as a 3/4" or 1" most likely.

@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Thank you, I will take a 2nd look.

The leak out of the hole on the RV cover is one of three reasons or a combination. When you take that cover off the nipple end of the RV assembly may still be stuck in it. The part that fits into the cover has a plastic piece with an o-ring on it. Either the plastic could be cracked or broken or the o-ring is damaged. Lastly, it could be the cover plate inside where the o-ring seals is corroded or pitted. If the corrosion can be cleaned out and it has not pitted the brass you may be good or you may need a new o-ring. But regardless it is one of those reasons or a combination of them. Call me if you need to 801-355-6736

IF you are referring to winterizing, I guess it would depend on your system. For example, I have a stop and waste and it should all run out of that. If your valve is in your home there should be a way to drain it as well.

You are welcome. Just know flipping the disc won't last as long as before you flipped it as it is hitting in the same spot as the side you just flipped. It now doesn't have any support or strength on the other side. It is intended to be a temporary fix.

I understand your concern. However, they are going to do it anyway and in many places codes allow them to do it. These videos are also not just for them but those that are licensed to do it. Many of them do not understand how to do it either and know very little about installation requirements for them.

Union plumber much?

The washer shouldn't be concaved. It should be flat. But one side should extend a fraction wider than the other side. The side that should go against the washer is the longer side. And the edge of this side feels a little more sharp. The other side that is away from the rubber disc is more rounded. I have found out since that according to Wilkins it doesn't matter, but I have had an experienced technician of several decades tell me it does matter. I think over time the washer might not be as easy to distinguish the edges as I think they wear away. You should be able to tell by the staining on the washer from the water what side was not against the rubber disc. Not sure if this helped, but I really think putting it on will not be noticeable.

@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Thank you for the prompt reply! 🙂

Take a hammer and gently tap around the outside of the housing at the top where the threads of the bonnet go down into the body. See if that will help loosen it up. if you are not using a long bar of some sort to put in between the three "legs" that the screws go into that the canopy attaches to I am not sure how else to get it out.

@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 It works!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

@@qing7 Glad it worked, but what worked specifically? The tapping with the hammer, the long bar to turn it with or both?

What did I forget about the #2 SOV??

Opening the #4 test cock or if necessary opening a valve down stream that gets a greater flow through the assembly than what is coming out of the relief valve is a means of trouble shooting if the issue is the #1 check or the relief valve. It in effect allows the relief valve to fully close if it is a number one check issue. But if it is a relief valve issue it doesn't matter if water is flowing or not and you will know where to focus your efforts in your repair or cleaning.