working on a 1980 right now that had so much sludge in the bottom of the crankcase it wouldn't return oil to the tank

Another nice video. That clutch ramp issue resolution is interesting, wasn't easy to figure out. And also the Hallow's Beach tune is great ! Thanks

Master truer explained and shown in simple form. Thank you for shareing your expertise and craft ingenuity.Much appreciated. IH1977

Good video, definitely enjoyed seeing the tig repair work. Now I am glad you are tackling the frame, since there is something I would like to get your thoughts on... On this swingarm I am unsure what bearings are used, but on my 1975 it uses Timken 17520 (race) and 17580 (bearing)... the question is do you go back with the original bearings or go for the Timken (other brands also) 11520 (race) and 11590 (bearing) ? ... as far as the technical drawings on the Timken site, the bearing sets have same dimensions... BUT the kicker is the price... the old bearing numbers cost any where from $68 to $100 for just a single bearing (no race)... the 11590/11520 set can be any where from $8 to $40ish.. Dynamic load is 1100lbs, static load is 1300lbs, so for a sportster this way more than enough. Haha!! I will admit I have two bearing sets that are a perfect example of "bad enough"... Just with slight finger pressure you can lock up the inner ring on the bearings and you can see/feel wavy lumps in the races. Yes it could have been worse, they could have seized to the shaft.. Anyway I was just wondering which bearing sets you use when replacing. And if you do show taking the swingarm apart, would you mind talking on the bearing types. (by the time of your next post, I should have received and installed the 2 sets of 11590/11520 bearings.)

I am guilty of running a 23 tooth back in the day :) (loved the lower rpms on the highway)

Sebring capacitor?

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Good ‘how to’ of setting up a part to be machined and repaired!

Excellent workmanship.

Nice welds, saving that old pourous stuff is fun ain't it....

Referring to picking up that hole (at about 15-1/2 minutes in) your method is very good. Quick and easy. Here's another way you could try in the future. If a drill blank fits snugly in the hole, and doesn't wiggle around, you could leave the blank in the hole and pick up on it with an Interapid (or similar) or a Blake Co-Ax. Getting dialed in on broken out holes is always a little bit interesting. So much depends on what you have to work with and what you need to do to hold it in the mill.

Love the attention to detail. So important for others to help them out on their own journey rebuilding these old machines. I agree with struts being to long sometimes. I have cut them of and rewelded a new piece in them to shorten in the past. Universal fit ha ha.

Works! Got you to stop at their business!😅. I would say let it be, keeps some skinny jean hipster from buying it and chopping it or being sent to Japan.

You did a great job on that sprocket cover! I love the way you insured the location of the locating pin. Drilling through the cover is ingenious! I have never seen such a beautiful weld on sand cast aluminum. Even if you could buy an aftermarket cover that would work, saving the original is the right way to go.

Very enjoyable to watch you work Mr. IronHead.

Very interesting! Nice work Gary, what process do you use to get the cast parts so clean?

Spot on !

Absolutely great vid!

Good morning sir , from se utah😊

You're wrong, each one of those tiny ferrous torroids is a bit, that can hold a binary state (high or low or on or off or left or right) representing a 1 or a 0, not a byte. In today's terminology (and back to the late 1970's), it takes 8 bits to make a byte. However, back then, depending on what era and computer it was from, they may have not used 8 bit "byte" words yet, but rather... 5, 6, or 7 bit length words... or any of those lengths plus one parity bit for error checking. The word "byte" came out of the home computer 8bit era of the late 70's and early 80's.... before then, they called a group of bits that represented one atomic value or character "words". Don't quote me on it though. Going back further they may have even called them something else. The error checking parity bit would reflect if you had an even or odd number of bits in the word set to 1. If they didn't match, you knew you had a bad memory location, and could report it in hardware or software, or mark it out as bad in software. Usually on start up a memory testing routine would run, writing various test values to memory, and comparing what was written and read back, to what was written, and also if the parity bit was set right. You'll see this on most older PC's... when they boot, the computer will perform a quick memory count and test on the initial screen. It's no longer really done any more in modern computers and BIOS's, except when installing new memory and you have to "train it" (something new in DDR5 memory).

It has been awhile since I was at DFW, but never seen this store... Now what I wonder, if this bike is part of a collection does the store rotate the bikes to different locations... that would be interesting if they did. Nice find!!

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Maybe there was a small inclusion (sometimes microscopic sized debris) in the metal and it just took a long time to develop a stress riser and break.

That crappy parts has not been improved, I have received the same about two years ago. Issue was exactly the same. So many parts are the same poor quality and cannot be used, I don't understand how this waste can go on.

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Yes I’ve seen it there traveling through DFW a couple of years ago.

Haha! I feel like a dumb-ass, that type of memory is called bubble memory.. it allows you to charge up each "bit" and even if the power is removed, the bit settings are still saved. This was extremely useful when sharing memory between two cpu's setup in a failover configuration. VAX computer systems was the last manufacture that I ever seen this used on (I think Tandem Non-Stop Systems used this also). Basically these memory units were the KERNEL memory, and if a cpu broke, the fail over cpu would pick up on the exact command that was being executed at time of failure (plus all the register values). Damn I am old, I have not thought about using bubble memory since the mid 90's. GOOD pick of items to use in the contest.

coil looks like a chunk o' wood Maaaan! Jeez I got three armatures on my coffee able! RIIGGGGED! LOL ( Im identifying as a half blind old fart from now on) maybe half blind old fart + glasses = Poindexter next time LOL

Bit, not byte.

Reminds me of when I was in college many years ago they had a CDC computer that had banks of these memory modules.

Wow!

Bloody brilliant observation. I'm English, 50 years old and love XLs. I know DFW a little bit and met a lovely American lady there once. But at D24. It's a long story. I follow your channel because I would like an old XL. I was gonna buy a 75 off a guy in Leeds , Yorkshire but got concerned over what seemed to be a hairline crack on the case? Not sure though because I'm unknown to bikes older than my generation

so whats the skinny on this sporty is there a price or?

As the owner of an original paint 59 XLH I can say they are lovely bikes. A pleasure to ride. Owning one I can say they fully explain why they as a the beginning of iron heads lead the way for them to become epitome of classic Harleys. Indeed anything pre 70 with all the original pieces intact is a rarity.

Gorgeous 😂 just like their skin care products 🤣

number 1 is the base from a magneto that you cut the shaft off of ,(possible bonus info is the S mark is for south magnet) number two as I said is a coil from said magneto (looks like you ground away the plastic potting out of curiosity to see the windings, m and number three is the one that different and I have the thought , it was some kind of tool to measure magnetism, its the different one, and not a bike part.

Number three is an ECM computer cutaway

My guess is thing 1 is points plate on magneto, thing 2 is coil from magneto, and thing 3 is what is different... But not sure what it is... looks a mesh, maybe like an air filter...

i never saw this video, OMG I would have paid the shipping , and bought you a gift, wow how did this happed

Thing 1

maybe one is part of a horn and the other two from an amp or speaker cabinet.

well I was goona try, the second "thing looks like a ignition coil with the plastic ground down to random depths , the third looks like an electrical regulator or rheostat of some kind. but Im lost on the first one, I just know it the one thats different because its not an electrical component persay...

Oh boy this is a tuff one for today's "men"... my head is smoking.. thinking thinking......thhhhiiiiin.n.nkinnnng,

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Muy cool. Nailed it!

"I'm sure there are others like Gary out there" Good luck with that. I'm sure the owner was being kind but. I could give you a couple of names that are out there that talk like Gary...but they aren't Gary. The only way you can find that out is pretty expensive.

What stop sign 😂

Gary, sounds like you got the bike running extremely well. That was interesting on the clutch release piece. Now I have to say the personal interview with the bike owner was a very nice addition... Would be interesting to see more interviews.. ie the Harton owner would be cool. I have to admit, no matter who pushed it, getting rid of the chrome was the best idea and it looks good. Just a very good video today.

Very nice! Only thing I would have done different. Would be dual disk and a two into one exhaust.

Nice craftsman work done by you sir....never seen brass pushrod tubes for the IH, can you tell me who makes them. I've had the hex cups on mine for a couple of years fit on good