"...could count on 1 or 2 paws..." Hmm...but if you are a mitten paw that might raise the # of games by 30% or more :)

saw the puppet and instantly subscribed lol never seen a channel mascot quite like this! very cool

35:18 I particularly like your music choice for this section

This is absolutely amazing! I found you on Member-yt channel on Usagi's server...excellent video production!

I finally dove back into my faulty one today... I had cleaned the corrosion, fixed broken traces (this one was really damaged from the battery), put new nicads in it and recapped it. And it worked for a while and then the VHF (I am in use and using a vhf modulator) went out. I pulled all the varicap diodes out and one of them had a pretty high iR reverse current. These doses are unmarked so I didn't know what type they were but found some within the specs of VHF (MV2109's) and swapped out all 4 and its working now... I am going to burn it in for a while and then reassemble. So far so good! So if your tuner goes out it looks like MV2109's are a working replacement.

I am the guy who had the brass replacement gears made. Like you I first tried to figure out how to machine them myself but the 0.25m size made that difficult. Even finding someplace to make a small number of them (i.e. a few thousand) was difficult. The Y-axis (paper feed) anti-backlash gear also tends to crack at the hub. You can 'patch' those though. I did a video on that and have had some success with resin printing them.

Oh my goodness, these E&L Instruments boards are a thing of beauty and a joy for ever! I absolutely adore those toggle switches. Good restoration and mod job on that one. BTW, try a hairdryer for removing those pesky stickers. A heat gun or hot air station turned really low should also do the trick.

The 5V BNC plugs at the back of the HP breadboard is to power the logic probes that came with the kit. I think mine came with the manual, and that I scanned it. Bark at me (or meow) if you’d like a copy of it! [Edit] Oh, I see now, you have the manual too...

Oh there really are lots of different board's I might have to go down my own rabbit hole. 🤣🤣 Great video 2x👍

Saludos desde México!! 🇲🇽

A double re-cap eh. it does not become more Atkelar than that he he. pity on those diodes. I did a repair on my M audio keystation 49 I have in my studio that had given up the ghost in the most weird and bizarre way possible making it go absolutely haywire sending out midi commands until the computer panic, turn on tons of indicators dim in flickering patterns and not working at all. I was looking for the fault for hours on end and I just could not find it. I had a strange signal on the scope that somehow seemed to appear from nowhere disturbing the boards. I re-cap, changed transistors, disconnected boards and de-soldered everything I could from the board making it just the basic midi interface and nothing, I took off the display and cut off traces from where the signal was. I was going nuts. you know what it was? in the end the fault was the Red Power LED that was defect, and yes it was lit up perfectly too. the issue was even more weird, it had a constant but non symmetric permanent pattern reverse polarity leakage through it, you heard me right, in some way the signals in the board made the LED leak in reverse while being lit that gave a constant exactly defined pattern on the scope that was a combination of the real signal and the LED itself leading to a complete mayhem in the board. that´s why I had this signal seem coming from nowhere because it came from the stupid LED. if this was not enough you could not measure the leakage with the LED out of the board either. it only happen at certain frequencies. I was like give me a flippin break how is this even possible moment. but replacing the power LED solved the issue and the keyboard have worked ever since.

Minor correction - these are solderless breadboards.

I have a little panel from something (i don't know what) which has an off-off switch. It also has a normally-maybe push button!

I giggled so much during this one, thank you! Such a dirty video haha What is the lube you've used for the pot? PTFE?

That puppet is really cute

Good job! You can use spray glue (3m Super 77, etc.) to glue thin metal to cast acrylic, cut the shape, then soak the acrylic + part in acetone to release it. I have also sandwiched thin metal stock between two ~3mm pieces of cast acrylic to allow for drilling holes without distorting the thin metal stock.

There may very well be larger, but that is the largest axial capacitor I have ever seen.

The black cat is highly educated.

Atkelar has catflu! 😷😁👍

7:55 - I don't know if that's the right decision - remember: in case of tantalum, "cap" is spelled with an "r"

Is deoxit technically dipping oil for breadboards? I have found breadboards of varying quality online but I have yet to find anything decent for a holder that has any sort of switches or indicators much less a power supply. I see one on Amazon that is just a frame and some banana jacks. Unfortunately I live in a place that now that Radio Shack is gone I am probably the most well stocked and that is not saying much. Theres no surplus, recyclers and got to travel a while for a decent hamfest so whatever is currently for sale or on ebay is about all I got. I was shocked pun intended to find a new oldstock linear power supply for a broadcast console made in the 90s by a company out of business quicker than I could rebuild the one in it and probably cheaper if you count overnighting parts from digikey. That and storm damage took up my week. Got reminded why not to be in a building connected to a 500ft lightning rod in bad weather too. Fun times. I am going to borrow that 180 grit joke next time I am cleaning faders at work.

Excellent work.. congratulations.. 👍

14:13 have to watch out for those Off-Off switches . ;) One issue I had with breadboards was too much capacitance between the rows for higher frequency operation.

Great! Thx!

Thank you for another interesting video! The magnetically attached breadboards are a great idea. If you are still looking for more breadboarding options, look for the Knight Electronics Mini-Lab. It has +5, +12 and -12 volt regulated supplies, 0 to +18 and 0 to -18 volt adjustable supplies, a clock and function generator 1 Hz to 10 kHz with sine, triangle and square with adjustable zero offset, plus 8 de-bounced switches, 8 buffered LEDs, two buffered momentary "pulser" switches, and a 1 k and 10 k potentiometer. They show up occasionally on eBay for a reasonable price. Regards, David

I'm bored of bread, I just want the hand puppet.

Whaaat? A new Usagi Electric and Atkelar videos on the same day? What is this, early christmas? :D :D AMAZING! :D

Yep the logic lab. I have a 100% complete (even with the ics) one I picked up a while ago, it also came with a case and two books, and an optional logic pulser and probe and one other over the IC dongle. Unlike other HP stuff the two books are in a word 'fragile' They will fall 100% apart if I try to scan them. Will have to make a vid on them some day. The breadboard on the logic-lab was removable so students could have differing projects on the go, or as I was told to take your work up to the teacher to have it checked or debugged as well in once course the student would pick up the breadboard with a 'Faulty' circuit and it was her job to find and fix the problems. Also according to local lore the designer of the box for the logic lab went on to work fro Apple and designed the cabinets for the the APPLE ][ line of commuters. Another great bread board are the 'Knight ML-2010 Mobile Lab' as it had nice size bread board and it could take 5X3.5perf board as well and it had a built ins function generator a ramp/sweep and pulse generator even three data buses all in a heavy duty AL case.

English is difficult for me, but it is very interesting to watch

Thanks! To help buy more cotton swabs.

In my opinion, wire wrap is so much better. The circuits are much more robust, and can be used as a permanent circuit. With bread boards, you pretty much have to duplicate your circuit on a soldered pcb if you want to keep it.

Agree with everyone else. Great video.

Excellent ! Thank You !

Hi, Atkelar I found the manual for the HP 5035T, but KZbin wont let my reply message to your video stay. Do you have a way for me to show you the page link.

😸

Nice work as usual! Only issue with breadboards is increasing frequency is a limiting factor, not great for RF in general but very useful for most low frequency analog and digital stuff.

I really like music in your videos ❤ nice restorations again 😊

'Close enough', a true engineer :)

Snipping off the weird mains plug is satisfying 😂

You are really the master of switches! I'd never dare to open one...