HP 410C VTVM (as seen with

[@CuriousMarc]

Wow! Impressive restoration work! So glad the unit ended up in the right hands!

[@Eduardo_Espinoza]

or paws:) lol

[@gryffuscze]

Also having to rewind the transformer TWICE, that really got me... :D Thanks for showing atkelar to us! :)

[@elmaverikf]

Just a suggestion, in the 90's I worked in a small shop that remade transformers, they left them in a bath of paint remover thinner (there are products that don't affect plastic) for 48 hours or more to disassemble. It is much easier to remove the blades and threads without the varnish. After it was ready, a brush of varnish was applied to the blades.

[@YoterTown]

Came here because of CuriousMarc and I really like your puppetry!

[@atkelar]

Thanks! It's lots of fun... once the arm stops hurting 😉

[@ChrisMower]

What a thorough piece of work! I had often thought that a collaboration between Marc and yourself would have been a great idea.

[@atkelar]

Thanks! I'm waiting to see what he came up with for the AC probe and wires. The missing wires are shielded ones, but should be "flexible", and the probe is probably not around in an original version anymore...

[@projectartichoke]

There are some relatively inexpensive silicone insulated temperature probe wires for sale on-line, coxaial braid with a teflon inner conductor insulator, one of the first results in seach, they should be quite flexible. @@atkelar

[@Runco990]

@@atkelar The probe is still around, but the prices are very steep. I commented on Marc's channel how lucky I was that someone put one on ebay for $49. (TOTAL FLUKE!) I immediately broke my mouse hitting buy it now and it works perfectly. I have a much newer 410C and love it. BTW, love the format, the background music is relaxing and not intrusive, it makes following your restorations very easy. 👍

[@atkelar]

Thanks for the tip! However, all I can find by that description are regular non-shielded versions; There's also the constraint that it "should" be able to handle 1500V DC and have a maximum of 4mm outer diameter. All of that limits the selection quite a bit. Since the VTVM is typically used for very tiny voltages, shielding seems mandatory, even for DC.

[@Runco990]

@@atkelar If you are talking about the regular probe wires, it seems that oscilloscope probe coax might work as a replacement. I may need to look into that at some point myself....

[@chrish7590]

Came over on CuriousMarcs suggestion. Why did the algorithm not suggest your channel earlier, but I have subscribed and 'rung the bell'. Thank you for the restoration - it was really well documented...

[@altxyz]

I really like this channel. I like the unique style of this channel, the puppet narrator, the music, the editing, and the proper restoration techniques. Finally someone, who is not afraid of rewinding a bad transformer, and remaking old electrolytic capcitors. You restore these things for another 50 years of service.

[@atkelar]

Thanks a lot! I'm doing my best to keep devices up and running. Sometimes, it needs a mod here and there, but even then I try to keep the changes to a minimum. I do not do "museum restorations" though, that much is certain. 😊

[@justin.campbell]

What a wonderful restoration! I wish I had found this channel earlier. I look forward to part 2!

[@atkelar]

Thank you! I hope to start working on it again soon; still waiting for some parts...

[@Runco990]

Thanks to Marc you have another subscriber! Amazing detailed work! LOVE IT! I also have a large collection of HP and other test equipment. Restoring it is my ZEN place.

[@atkelar]

Welcome! And thank you! I can relate about the zen, but I wouldn't call my collection "huge" per se... it is growing though.

[@MonkeyUnit]

You rewound that transformer twice!!! Brutal. But you stuck with it and persevered! Strong work! Now I'll have "My Train's A Comin'" by the Unicorn Heads rattling around in my brain for the next few days. PS: Marc sent me. Subscribed.

[@willmcgo8288]

Good job rewinding the transformer. I've been tempted to try that before, but now seeing how you've done it I feel that I could tackle it. I had a similar short in a starter motor that I had rewound. Must have snagged the wire on the rotor while rewinding and broke through the insulation. It's never fun to have to take apart hard work and re-do it! It feels goo in the end when it works. Great work!

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

28:08 - The Samtec box was a nice touch, considering Marc's background.

[@atkelar]

It *is* the box that he used to send it to me ^^

[@OldePhart]

Good Lord !! I don't have the words to say how impressive that was.

[@wall_k]

You are the most thorough and at the same time practical cat I've seen. My heart tingles a bit at the sight of IEC socket, but the usability overpowers all negative feelings Thank you for this!

[@stevebollinger3463]

I felt like maybe an IEC Mickey Mouse connector (C5) could fit in the original space leaving the original fuse holder. Those cords are way to get also.

[@benjaminhanke79]

​@@stevebollinger3463In german it's sometimes called a "Kleeblatt-Stecker"

[@rallymax2]

Thanks to Marc I’m a new subscriber and excited to binge watch all your videos!

[@aserta]

14:10 if you mount the winder on a base that would allow you to also mount a spool holder, you could then either hand cut or 3D print a similar mechanism to the one used by old Singer sewing machines to wind their bobbins (specifically, the heart shaped cam one that comes on Singer 128-13 units, because it gives a very flat profile, useful for this type of winding). To give it tension, you would use an arm with two felt pads that sandwich the enameled wire with enough tension to not break the wire, but put the right amount of tension on it (trial and error). Sidenote, i would've used the lathe to de-crimp the switch. If you mount the switch on custom made mandrel (wood piece with a hole and some hot glue) and then use a brass "hook" and (by hand) slowly turn the chuck, you can peel the aluminium back with ease. Works for old capacitors and vintage canned packages as well. A brass rod from a skewed (towards) copper alloy is best. For a source: usually they're meant for ornamental work, as they are easy to carve (wood working and inlay work). The "hook" should be shaped like crochet needle, that doesn't have the hook anymore, specifically the sharp part. As smooth as possible, of course. You can also use (if you have access to it) a hard wood. Iron wood or an exotic oily wood. Tho, those would only work for really big capacitors, for something as small as that switch, even a hard wood would chip, so brass is best. An air soldering unit at medium temperature placed over the aluminium also helps the metal peel without cracks (aluminium isn't as susceptible to heat as steel or brass or copper, but it does help your odds). Doesn't work on the first try, but once you get a feel for it, you can not only open these packages, but also crimp them back!!! Source: i've taken a few radio capacitors apart and put them back together. Once you get the hang of it, it's nearly impossible to figure out someone been inside them (other than a shiny rim from the metal on metal contact, tho a little bit of thick oil can help with that, if you do machining or have someone who might have access to it, anchor lube is great for this, it protects the aluminium). Cheers! edit: you can remove the lacquer from the laminates with paint remover and you can flatten them using one of those pliers meant for bending sheet metal. The wide faces will allow you to flatten them in one go - per face. I've only done this once, but i had great success with misc stuff i had in the shop. edit2: electric boogaloo a lockpicker's tweezers would've been excellent for this 19:00 (and in general for electronics work). They have tips that are meant to grab those pins inside locks, which make them perfect for small components that need to get inside hard to reach places. You can get a set, or buy cheaper tweezers and bend them yourself (which is what i'd do, because the you can buy 5 or 6 of them and bend them to different sizes, whereas the normal lockpicker ones are only meant for one).

[@justinmijnbuis]

Thanks for putting me onto this channel Marc; fascinating video this.

[@Derpy1969]

This cat is insane! I love it!

[@der.Schtefan]

Interesting approach. Many restoration projects try to keep everything 100% period accurate, try to avoid replacing capacitors, try keeping the custom power connectors original, but that means the device will just be useless 3 years later because of lack of modern connection mechanisms, or caps that are a time bomb. They condemn the thing to a museum piece that won't be actively used. This is more a "revitalisation", like when an old airplane is retrofitted to keep flying for the next 30 years. I like it!

[@atkelar]

It's what I would call "Museum grade Restorations". I could go that route, but my train of thought is more "what would people do if this was still the most modern and useful piece of equipment, just to keep it around for the next decade or so?". For some devices, like the Precision scope and the latest Heathkit, that meant almost total component replacement. I try to keep all the outside and features accurate though, as well as whatever I can keep from the interior.

[@Spookieham]

I was sent here by CuriousMarc. I'm not exactly sure why I am listening to a cat discuss in detail electronic refurbishment but I've subscribed just to be safe.

[@atkelar]

Thanks! I hope to have many interesting stories to tell ;)

[@hymermobiler]

Came over from Marcs channel and glad I did. I enjoyed watching the work put into that video it must be so satisying when it all comes together and works. Thank you for sharing.

[@atkelar]

Thanks! It does give a warm and fuzzy feeling when things work again. Sometimes there had to be an extra round somewhere, but so far, I've not really lost any patient. Some might have ended up with a scar or two, but nothing's been lost. *knocks on wood* 😊

[@chriholt]

Curious Marc sent me here, and I'm glad he did. Subscribed!

[@AleksanderRush]

Почему такая кропотливая и долгая работа не набирает достаточного количества лайков? В отличие от всякой гадости из тик-ток. Как говорится, it's wonderfull restoration. Сожалею, что не могу поставить сразу несколько лайков.

[@projectartichoke]

Came here from Marc's channel and glad I did. It was an instant subscribe when I saw your list of videos. I'll be binging those for a while!

[@atkelar]

Thanks! Just a fair warning for binging: I never thought that would be an issue, so I used the same background music all the time... it might get a bit repetetive if there isn't two weeks between videos 😅

[@starwolf621]

Very cool video, and such talent from you! Thank you for sharing.

[@aserta]

Whoa, Marc was not kidding, you really did take this repair like you'd do a car restoration. This has to be one of the most in depth repairs i have seen for such an item. You, have my sub Sir!

[@colinstu]

Awesome resto job/work/effort! And OMG having to redo that transformer! Gratz on shoutout from curiousmarc, and excited to find you via him!

[@MartinSteed]

What a thoroughly enjoyable and fascinating half hour!

[@fredinit]

The appropriate level of whimsy, technical chops, attention to detail, and speeding through the boring bits has added you to my very small list of subscribed channels. Maybe a collaboration between you and @MarcoReps, since he's a bit closer, might be in order.

[@fabiocattaneo9434]

Thanks to Mark I found your channell. What to say : this is one of the best restoration electronic work I've ever seen (mainly due to your attention to details,also). I immediately subscribed!! Man keep it going!!

[@ross7389]

Amazing skill and attention to detail. Thank you for showing this process.

[@thek3743]

Fantastic work and video! And for the cheering Marc suggested: Bravo, geht scho! Sehr leiwand!

[@TobiasThede]

Nice to See you again, atkelar,and happy New year.your restoration Video from the müter bmr Was pretty helpful,i got a bmr 95 from a tv repairshop,with many Adapters,and all handbooks,but it wasnt working correctly. After watching your Video,i looked inside my bmr,and i only needed to replace some 1n4007 diodes,and three resistors,and cleaning the Adapters and the bmr 95 Completely.now it's in perfect working and looking condition.i have the original schematic for my bmr 95,that was helpful,to know the right values for the resistors.

[@campbellmorrison8540]

Excellent job. I have just finished rewinding a 720V transformer, took 5 days doing a few layers at a time, very similar size and it was a nightmare to get it to fit back into the core, I wish I had had a few options like that to reduce the windings. A very good thing to remember to check next time.

[@atkelar]

In this case, I got lucky indeed. I also only had slightly thicker wire, which is probably good for changing the rectification, but it barely fits as it is. Older transformers - like the one I had in the Precision scope - usually have more wiggle room.

[@tjaeoij32]

What a heck of a rebuild! You did a reallly nice and neat job. Your fursona is cute too. Keep up the good work!

[@BobDarlington]

Bummer having to rewind that transformer a 2nd time. Ooof.

[@sivalley]

Those rare **BLEEP** moments. . . I feel that.

[@POVwithRC]

What an undertaking!

How much humming sound are you getting from the transformer?!!! When taking a transformer apart, we also break the varnish that glues all iron layers. Despite the screws re-tightened at the 4 corners, there is always some buzzing/humming noise left. Were you lucky this time?

[@atkelar]

That will show when I put it under load. Right now, there is no audible hum at all, but more current draw might change that. If so, I need to throw some new lacquer at it after all.

[@erwindreyer7386]

Erstaunlich wie du bei der Reparatur dieses Gerätes vorgehst. Das Video hat sehr gute Qualität und alle Einzelheiten sind gut zu erkennen. Dazu der klare Text und tolle Musik im Hintergrund. Ich denke dass nicht nur die Reparatur sondern auch der Videoschnitt viel Können erfordern. Ab und zu sieht man dass deine Werkstatt sehr gut ausgerüstet ist. Ich frage mich ob ein Ultraschallbad nicht der bessere Weg sein könnte um die Dinge sauber zu bekommen? Herzlichen Dank für deine Arbeit zu unserem Vergnügen. Erwin from Switzerland

[@atkelar]

Danke! Mit Ultraschall habe ich bisher gemischte Erfahrungen gemacht. Vor allem ist etwas problematisch, dass man Teile (hier z.b. die Widerstände) eintauchen muss und sich das Reinigungsmittel damit auch vertragen muss. Außerdem hier: Keramikteile und Ultraschall; da bin ich mir auch nicht ganz sicher und lieber vorsichtig.

[@skeleton_craftGaming]

I ultimately think you were correct, taking out the push switch, ultimately I think that having a functioning bulb in it is going to make it look more new than having small chips off of the back of the buttons case is going to make it not.

[@atkelar]

I really want to have the "on" indicators on my devices functioning. It's not good if I have to guess, especially with "heated" devices. I just wish that these switches had screws or rivets that can be replaced.

[@skeleton_craftGaming]

@@atkelar yeah. I didn't even actually think about the fact that it uses vacuum tubes, which are heated... I was just thinking of making look as original as possible. I guess that was a safety thing...

[@vincei4252]

Nice work my friend. Nothing better than saving excellent gear from the land fill. Subscribed.

[@Otacon_Magoo]

A new intro for 2024.. nice Atkelar

[@tehlaser]

ooh, I like what you do with the filter capacitors. I've got two pieces of vacuum tube gear (nothing fancy, just an old ham radio and an alarm clock) where those had failed. I was never quite happy with the improvised cardboard shrouds I had wrapped around modern replacements to get the correct size.

[@atkelar]

While I think that I came up with this method on my own, I have since seen it done by others too, so I don't claim an invention :) After quite a few of them, I think I have it down to a good working process now.

[@mansnilsson4382]

On the necessary replacement of the horrible PH-163 connector, I have found, after being tipped off, that Schurter 4300.0100 (or since it's obsolete, its successors), an IEC "C6" ("Mickey Mouse" connector, common on laptop supplies) fits the PH-163 cutout pretty well; all it takes is a wee bit of filing and it slides in. Much easier fix than milling and dealing.

[@atkelar]

Thanks for the tip! I have some of these C6 cables around, and the sockes are available indeed; but last I read about them, they differ in curent handling capabilities: different shape, different rating essentially, so consumers don't put underrated cables in circuit; that's why I usually go with the regular one. In this particular case, the lower edge of the connector was almost flush with the case cover plate. So I couldn't scoot the new connector anywhere towards that, even the connector case (which mounts outside) would have to move considerably towards the fuse holder or I would have had to cut out the cover plate too. And when I mod something, I try to mod the absolute minimum of parts at least. Still, I shall put a few of these sockets on my shopping list to have as an option for future projects!

[@TeslaTales59]

Nice work! The transformer repair is impressive

[@davidk8184]

You have the patients of a saint.

[@EdwinSteiner]

Amazing work and a display of superhuman patience! I just found one inconsistency in the video: The arms we can see working on the device are way too hairy to belong to the cat. Something's off here! BTW, greetings from Austria!

[@atkelar]

Thanks! And the arms belong to "Stage Hands" - he's doing the physical stuff, so I don't break any claws! 😜

[@EdwinSteiner]

@@atkelarSmart cat! Letting the human servant get zapped instead.

[@djneon12]

there are twezeres with rounded grippers for pins in locks. maybe those are helpfull with those spaces too :)

[@atkelar]

I still need to find those somewhere. The tweezers I have now are incredible... took abuse to no end but are still in perfect working order. Might do with a new paint job though :D but every other pair I've seen so far wasn't near that quality level IMHO so I stopped trying.

[@garyramsey4275]

Great work so far, Atkelar, even though you had to rewind the transformer twice. By the way, I hope you decide to ultimately keep this music for your channel. It has become a very familiar catchy tune which I always look forward to hearing again. That box was hard to resist, wasn’t it?

[@atkelar]

Using it as part of several tunes in a rotation is certainly an option too; Let's see how it pans out!

[@tuppyglossop222]

@@atkelar Another Curious Mark nomad here. It’s great to see such an intense cleaning and restoration. However, a big no for the music from me. I’m probably just too old, but I find constant frenetic music tiring, tedious and distracting. Give me ambient workshop sounds any day.

[@ReneSchickbauer]

Very nice work!

[@whatevernamegoeshere3644]

15:40 One issue you can run into is you can run your transformer into saturation. It will slowly heat up as a simple resistive load at the end of each cycle.

[@atkelar]

I had it running for quite some time already, the transformer is only "normally" warm to the touch, as expected with running any load. I don't think that this is an issue here. It *might* be with another one of my devices, but that's to be measured yet.

[@kytepheonix]

Now ... If the transformer is trash, and the lacquer is basically the same as lacquer you would use in furniture in the future you could try warming lacquer thinner and basically soaking the entire transformer for a while in luke warm thinner (do this outside - fumes!!!!) It sounds daft I know but I've rescued several paintbrushes doing this so the technique should be worth a try

[@AugustusTitus]

The single turn of wide wrap is a magnetic shunt or shielding.

[@atkelar]

Indeed. What's a bit weird in this case is that there's two off them and - of course - that I managed to short it against the secondary on my first attempt... somehow. 😊

[@mm-hl7gh]

ohh thats awesome !! just hopped over from curiousmarc. this looks like a great channel :D

[@atkelar]

Thank you so much! I hope you enjoy my various other projects too! They are a bit.. well.. all over the place 😁

[@sefarkas0]

When working on multi-section wafer switches, unbend a couple of paper clips. As you remove each screw have the paper clip touching the end of the screw that is being removed. once the screws are out put a couple of bends at the end of the paper clips. reverse the procedure on re assembling. if you need to take out a wafer cut the paper clip and bend each end,

[@atkelar]

That's a neat trick! In this case, I wanted to remove the spacers to get better access for cleaning and if I understand your suggetstion correctly, it would leave them in?

[@sefarkas0]

@@atkelar it leaves in anything you want, you can cut the clip anywhere and bend the ends to keeps adjacent parts in-place. I came up with this to replace one bad wafer in a multi wafer switches.

[@Pulverrostmannen]

Reminds me a bit when I fixed my own VTVM, Funny enough mine did not have any power button at all, if you had it plugged in it was powered on, A Philips GM6000, Such a dumb design in a way, no power switch, no power indicator. no nothing. But I made a good ol re-cap and so on and got mine to perfect working condition again :)

[@MCPicoli]

In the sea of trash that KZbin is nowadays, an island of quality. Instant subscribe!

[@James504]

Great Video atkelar. As a layman, i cant help but think those mechanical switches and rats nest wiring would have cleaned up well in an ultrasonic cleaner with IPA without pulling them apart? It wouldnt have cleaned the contacts as well as mechanical, but it would get 90% of the cleaning done. Lubing obviously is another problem without strip down.

[@atkelar]

I only have a tiny ultrasonic cleaner, basically for watchmaking parts only. Also, I have never tried anything but water with some custom US cleaning agent. I don't know what liquids I can use without causing damage or a foaming mess; so far, nothing "oily" got even touched. For switches and wires I could see that as a possibility, but I am a bit hesitant about the resistors though. Not sure how well they would handle that treatment.

[@James504]

@@atkelar I have a small one maybe 600ml for cleaning my airbrushes and a big one- 10L for the garage. They are hands down the one of the best tool purchases ive made. Both are cheap ebay units. Ive seen people clean circuit boards/ motherboards in them with IPA. I think IPA would be fairly safe. Ive cleaned automotive wiring harnesses for my landcruiser in it using dish washing liquid and demineralised water. They come up like new and best of all you can do something else while it does the hard work. Something to think about anyway.

[@Daniel32396]

Where's the shot of Atkelar with all his fur puffed up from getting zapped?

[@atkelar]

The second camer was not running at that time 😉

[@borisj4054]

The amount of iron in the core directly affects the turns per volt of the windings. Leaving iron out without increasing the number of turns per volt will lead to core saturation and overheating.

[@atkelar]

So far, I have not put any real load on the secondaries, but they show a nice sine wave. If the transformer indeed saturates, it should be visible as a "cut off" sine, IIRC. I'll keep an eye on that when I add the PCBs! Thanks!

[@jamesbennettmusic]

Looks great with the new camera!

[@FUNKLABOR_DL1LEP]

Great work & thanks the courious marc.. for this channel-Tip.. 73 de DL1LEP

[@NoLandMandi]

wow! thanks, it's very entertaining! I like to see this little Wolverine fix a Nikon Fe 1 camera! why fe1, not F eII? Because I know how challenging it is!

[@michaelmiller641]

Wonderful!

[@SeanBZA]

With the secondary damage I would say that likely one of the diodes shorted out, leading to a high DC current flow, which overheated the primary, and it, along with the secondary, finally failed.

[@atkelar]

Interesting idea; indeed, one of the old diodes shows current in both directions; not equally though, about 0.3 vs. 0.7 V but clearly not "dioding" anymore. To be fair, I can't be sure if it was broken before I desoldered it though. This might be why the meter was "popping the fuse" for the previous owner, as Marc said in his part 1.

[@SeanBZA]

@@atkelar With the age of the meter, and those old diodes not being exactly reliable when you apply high voltage, along with the initial capacitor charge being very rough on them, because that 1 cycle peak current rating is not going to reflect exactly how many turn on cycles it will survive, just that it will survive at least one in testing. I have seen them fail, because when it was bent to form the leads the die inside was stressed, and a crack started to form, and over time it grew, till the die cracked in half, and the next turn on cycle it blew apart. Old plastic cased ones will do that, and the glass ones as well, just from residual stress in the case pulling the die apart with thermal cycling. Seen plenty where the diode just cracks, and lead stress pulls them apart, so it is now half wave rectified, and possibly still works with no visible difference till the transformer gets unhappy with DC current, and saturates, leading to the primary overheating.

[@intell2OOO]

I usually remake that rare connectors by modelling it in 3D, and use 3D printer and military connector pins. once I made a cable for Technics RS1800 (two separate units: tape deck and amplifier). Original cable was lost, and connectors was unavailable.

[@atkelar]

That would be a possibility indeed; I think I started replacing the old ones quite a bit before I got my 3D printer and it's kinda become a tradition to modernize these sockets. Usually they only need a very slightly larger hole, but this one was tucked in a bit too much.

[@ShainAndrews]

Interesting. I don't tolerate music. But carry on. I'm sure you will do great things with all your hardware and work.

[@atkelar]

Sorry to hear that, but thanks for checking by anyway!

[@ShainAndrews]

@@atkelar Appreciate the invite, and your work. I have little doubt I will hear of and see your results in the future.

[@benjaminhanke79]

12:00 I stopped the video and thought how it's possible to get "Full wave rectification" with only two diodes. Had a "mind blown" moment. Don't tell Electroboom!

[@atkelar]

It was the go-to way when tubes were the norm. Adding more copper to the transformer was easier/cheaper than adding another two diodes as a tube. The usual rectifier diodes of the time are two-in-one tubes for that reason. With silicone diodes it became cheaper to use more of those over the copper in the transformer. This circuit must be from the transition time.

[@muadeeb]

Just came from curious Marc o/ You might want to find some pinning tweezers for locksmithing the next time you need to deal with a small fiddly spacer tube

[@atkelar]

Hello! Somebody indeed mentioned such a tweezer before; I'm already on the lookout, but they seem to be a bit more specialized and rare than usual. Also, tools like this I usually prefer to buy "in store" so I can assess the quality... in this special case I'm not sure that most of these would take kind to the forces involved. Lock pins are usually almost no force at all and these tubes might require a bit of "shoving" depending on how tight the soldereing around them is.

[@viperwizard491]

copper give power not iron. reducing iron sheets will bring closer to core saturation(core heating) if turns are the same for given voltage input

[@atkelar]

I still need to brush up on the math behind transformers; I am aware that reducing the iron will cause it to saturate magnetically earlier, but I was under the impression that the actual saturation was more depedning on the current draw, and thus power delivery? In "idle" it does show a nice sine on the output, and is thus not saturated.

[@viperwizard491]

did experiment with 10A pulsed voltage source and measured current with oscilloscope. ferrite have sharper knee than iron. cheap transformers use thick sheets and less iron because they are warm at standby. microwave-oven transformer would be otherwise twice the size. vacuum tube output transformers are made near perfect(good quality ones)and available math/theory to run them flat up to 100kHz. to pack more copper use mylar transformer tape 3M make them for different width and thickness@@atkelar

[@inse001]

Atkelar finishes what others have given up on. How did you know the number of turns necessary on the transformer after cutting out the windings? By the way I had a similar issue with a W&G Nixie tube counter where the transformer had a short in the HV windings. Seeing no chance in restoring the transformer, I replaced it by two small SMPS modules and a self designed boost converter for the HV.

[@atkelar]

I wouldn't say he gave up; just that it was too much time for his schedule. But I cannot see a device getting left out, even temporarily. The number of turns is relatively easy. As long as you know the expected voltages and have at least one winding counted, you can compute the others based on the ratio. Voltage1 to Voltage2 is the same as count1 to count2.

[@inse001]

@@atkelar So you were able to unwind one of the windings, I only saw you using the cutter. I am already curious for the next part as how you deal with the missing probes.

[@atkelar]

Yes, the 6V and 12V AC ones were thicker wire and came off in one piece; The result might be ever so slightly off compared to the original, since I used our usual 235V as a base, not the 230V in the diagram; but it certainly will be close enough. Mains AC is anywhere from 230 to 240V anyway. The probes are in the planning stage, so you and me both are curious about them 😉

[@iamdarkyoshi]

Mmm, tingly~

[@agranero6]

Wow. My comments were erased. Weird. I commented about the different way that potentiometer was built. Sometimes long comments are deleted by KZbin just because. I cited a brand (an encyclopedia name) on one answer and I think it triggered some anti-spam feature.

[@atkelar]

I sent you a direct message on Patreon; I'm not sure why the comments disappeared on my end too though. 😞

[@agranero6]

@@atkelar Curiously your message still appears to me in my notifications.

[@skeleton_craftGaming]

I mean you know your switches work now, or at least that one did...

[@MD_Builds]

eeeep no electrocuting stage hands D:

[@diabolicalartificer]

Great content but the soundtrack drove me nuts, it detracts from the electronics.

[@atkelar]

Sorry to hear that. But thanks for checking it out anyway! I'm working on a playlist of sorts, but there should always be similar music, since it would be quiet otherwise and I don't think that would be good either.

[@diabolicalartificer]

@@atkelar No worries, we all have our preferences. As a KZbin channel myself I don't like to appear in my own video's, you have found a solution that suits you, EG the cat puppet & music, so, fair play to you. Best regards...DA.

[@blenderbuch]

That cat talking is fine 😂 but i cant stand the music.

[@atkelar]

Sorry... I know that it can't hit everybody's taste. I usually keep it rather low compared to the talking, maybe having something else louder on while watching? 😊

[@blenderbuch]

@@atkelar Just wanted to give an opinion. No offense.

[@curtisnewton895]

puppet is cute, yet fucking useless