Thanks so much. It's hard for me to find the time to make these videos, and I apologize for taking so long to make them. Are there certain things in particular that would be helpful?

@@phototocanvaspdx I usually print canvas prints both from photos and art. I usually print with mirrored borders. I often have difficulty with the print printing to my set size usually because my defined size is not correct when using roll paper. This has something to defining media size versus print size that is confusing me. Checking the auto role seems to help ensure the media or paper type is long enough. Often I have a situation where everything will indicate the print is going to print the right size but once the print is finished it may be incorrect. I know it is specific, but a step by step video on setting up for canvas prints that would help ensure the print will be the right size when printed. Also if it is possible a video on how to do multiple photos on canvas wraps laying them out to save canvas. Not sure that can be done like you can with regular prints. I’m sure I can come up with more ideas but these are the ones I seem to have trouble with in ultimate version. I watch the videos Qimage does, and while helpful, I found you much easier to follow and understand. I’m using a Canon 4100. I’m also using an Epson p700 . I am ordering the Qimage Pro for Mac today.

@@Corkstercam I'll try and get one done next week!

@@phototocanvaspdxdo you have a patron account? Or, where can I make a donation?

@ Do you have a patreon account or something I can make a donation to?

Just work better for me that way

@@mlevad sure it works with any printer

I have not had that issue. What kind of canvas?

@phototocanvaspdx canon poliester canvas,canon portrait canvas (cotton-poly blend),they always get loose,the middle is loose,sometimes more - sometimes less but its always there

@@balkanbiker1572 I’d need to know more details. Size, stretcher bars , how you are stretching.

@phototocanvaspd i have glued and stampled wooden frame,very strong,doesnt bent (its not adjustable later so i can strech it),50x70cm and smaller i dont use center support on frame,on larger i do,i strech them with canvas pillers (with red rubber handgrip,same as u use) they are tight at first after that they get loose

No, but if you use the corresponding canon profile they will likely look the same.

Hey neighbor! I’m in Portland

It could be settings, not likely the printer.

Rolling runs the risk of ink roll off, where the ink sticks to your roller and makes a mess of the print. It's also easy to catch crap floating in the air. Gloss varnish does a better job of preventing cracking. So the idea of gloss first is that it will seal the print better then you can top it with matte. I did tests in the past rolling matte GLAMOUR varnish (also breathing color but specifically for rolling, dries slower and self levels). The matte failed miserably without gloss first. With Timeless I spray matte regularly with no other varnish first, but have not done much testing with rolling timeless as I dont have a need.

Good points. I thought all inkjet printers (Epson, Canon, HP) use CMYK anyway. My own personal experience, I was told for inkjet printing not to convert my RGB to CMYK many, many years ago. The explanation was that the printer's internal driver do the conversion and do it very well. I did try RGB to CMYK conversion before printing on my own printer and I was not happy with the results. So I always send RGB files. I do not remember what I submitted for a book to be printed (by MagCloud) with HP Indigo digital printers. HP Indigo is a CMYK printer. The book is a 90-page spiral bound 11x17 book and it looks fantastic. Overall the pages/images have a slight red tint to them only noticeable if compared to computer screen or inkjet print. The blues look great though.

Ha

You can use it if you soft proof, to see what colors in your image are out of gamut, but otherwise only in the printer settings.

@@phototocanvaspdx Thank you

First of all chances are your monitor, even if it's calibrated is only showing sRGB. Unless you have a fancy one. But the bottom line is if you send an image in sRGB it will look the same even if I was to convert is to Adobe RGB 1998. You cant add that information back to an imaged. Depending on the work I need to do on the image I will generally leave it in sRGB if thats how it comes as converting it to adobe is a waste of time. My printer doesnt HAVE to print in adobe, thats just the gamut it is capable of printing. I wouldnt say images in sRGB will be less vivid, there will just be a smaller amount of visible saturations of colors. So it you start in sRGB, just leave it be. You can add vibrancy in PS to get your image as you want it. Does that. make sense?

@@phototocanvaspdx Thanks a lot for your detailed answer👍! My monitor is an ASUS ProArt PA279 CRV that has a 99 % AdobeRGB coverage. When I ''assign'' the AdobeRGB color profile to an image created in the sRGB space, then that image undergoes an increase in color saturation, as well as in contrast. Still, given what you said, I think I am gonna stick to the sRGB color profile... Again, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us! 👍

@@Launyx Interesting, is that using Photoshop? What was the file created in?

@ No, for now, I am a Gimp user. I guess I should switch to Photoshop, but I am used to Gimp...

@@Launyx I hear great things about gimp. Ill look into this more but I know if you downscale a gamut you cant add that info back.

I use a pro 4000 and a pro 6100 and they are great for Canvas. You can buy some canvases that don’t require ceiling, but I have stopped using those and switch to varnishing all of my canvases as the quality is just much better. If you don’t want to seal, you should really be using solvent or latex inks, but those are not as good for art and photo printing.

Sorry for the confusion, I figured editing at a lower brightness was a given. I meant keep your monitor at 50% all the time.

Thanks for the clarification. It’s clear to me but for some beginners it might be confusing. As for 50% brightness, 50% of what? Would it not be better to say numeric value of the monitor brightness, like 60…80…100 nit, or whatever?

@ ​​⁠I don’t believe it would. Different monitors have different scales. 50% simply means half way between the minimum and max. This is just a simple guideline because the vast majority of people have their monitor set way too bright. Serious photographs that print should be using a calibrated monitor.

Stopped using this printer a long time ago. I have a whole bunch of videos about making it work. Personally, I don’t use preview to print, but I also never use Photoshop to print. I use a specific print software. If the printer is installed correctly you should be able to print with preview and get good results. I can’t speak for Photoshop. It’s super buggy and I don’t use it anymore for printing

@@phototocanvaspdx ok, thank you

Make the ink 8x10 and let the mat cover a little

@@phototocanvaspdx Thank you so much! ill do that

@@RuchiSharma-lo8kv luster or glossy would both work great!

@@stephencrozier2194 I guess I’m confused by the variables? Same image, same paper, proper icc profiles…

@@phototocanvaspdx but profiling has various variable, I could make profiles that would give either of the results. a more accurate way is measuring gamut etc

@@phototocanvaspdx sorry I pressed entrer to quick. so for example I could change the printer setting on both printers, and get close to either result, based on changing things like ink density etc etc. BTW, I not suggesting there isnt a difference, the blacks are WAAAAAAY better on the anon but just saying to amylase between two inkjet and 2 machines its more that just print the image on both etc

@@stephencrozier2194 Sure adjustments can be made, but two prints using vendor profiles for art paper should not be that different. I get incredibly accurate prints from my canon machines with no fine tuning aside from custom profiling, which I don't even need to do often. Some prints from the epson look great but it varies significantly more than my Canon machines.

@@phototocanvaspdx oh vendor profiles vary massively, depending on the vendor, and how they are doing them. I dont have an issue with my canons, mind I do make some custom profiles, I just find it easier when matching stuff totally, same with my scanners I make custom profiles for those too