I think I picked ours up from Amazon.com -- it's a simple phone/USB charger that features the digital readout -- I actually have them in all of our vehicles.

Yes, most likely that's the core issue, although the pin doesn't seem to have any play at the mount-point and overall clutch component set seems to be in reasonably good shape -- it is clearly an aftermarket replacement. Maybe that's the actual issue -- an aftermarket kit that isn't quite to exact specifications for the 1979 1500.

How would you verify those parts (pin, bush, tolerance ring) and how would you repair without removing engine/transmission?

@@dangerman7231 it’s probably a trial and error approach. You could maybe build up material like aluminum foil in the slave cylinder cup until you determine the proper thickness that enables full clutch clearance. Then you could devise a more permanent component. That’s probably a fairly tedious job though. I don’t think you can actually repair/replace any of those particular parts without removing the engine. You could probably keep the transmission in place, however.

@ i added a copper 1” tube to the rod and it seemed to help about 75%

I am working on one currently (1971 midget) and the same issue is on this car. I replaced and bled multiple times, the master and slave cylinder, as well as replaced the rubber hose. The rod itself was quite worn so after I experienced the same results you all are, I decided bleeding it wasn’t the issue and realized the rod had been worn pretty badly. I would have estimated that the Clevis pin hole was oblong and about an 1/8” of slop was there, as well as an estimated 1/8 worn off the end of the rod that goes into the slave cyl. I actually welded a 1/4” of material back on the end and the pedal felt drastically better. My concern with making it too long is premature wear on the graphite bearing that is in the clutch fork. So you don’t want too add too much length. Before I added material, the total length of the rod was 2-15/16”, after repair, it measured 3-1/4”. I assume that the original length would have been about 3-1/8” total.

@ i ended up adding almost 3/4” to my clutch rod going into slave. Even with that, I get a bit of grinding shifting into reverse if I don’t shift into third first. I have no wear on pedal linkage. I must have a lot of wear in the internal parts of the tranny. Not sure but I can drive it.

Is it ever really done :) We got it to the point where we were able to pass safety inspection and take it for a few drives before winter came long. It has sat in the garage for the summer this year, with the engine on a stand and the gearbox prepped while I steel my soul for replacing the reverse idler gear this winter. Planning to record more video and publish a few more episodes -- stay tuned!

It actually wasn't too much of an issue to bleed -- put the front end up a bit, fill with coolant, squeeze the tubes, run the engine, repeat. Not sure I did it right, but I haven't observed any problems with overheating, so it seems like it worked well-enough.

I found it on Amazon.com -- search for "bluetooth receiver amplifier board" -- they are $10-$20.

Thanks for the tip -- I admit I don't know much about what I'm doing, so I always appreciate receiving community advice.

Life got in the way this year, and our little MG has spent the summer sitting in the garage waiting for me to put the gearbox back together. I'm planning to put up some new videos over the winter, and fingers-crossed she'll be back on the road again in 2025.

I agree I was scratching my head at the "heated intake air" design as well, particularly because people love to install aftermarket cold-air intake kits...

I know, I feel bad about that -- my video footage of that part of the process was awful. It's likely that I'm going to need to get into the rear end again at some point, so when that happens I'll be sure to make a video about installing the brakes. Drum brakes were invented by a mad scientist...I had to replace the parking brake shoes on my 2017 Jeep Wrangler this summer and it is basically exactly the same setup. I guess if a design works, don't change it!

@ Looking forward to the next video. My Midget has been a bit of a brat this season with one problem fixed and another arising. The clutch hydraulics are leaking from inside the engine bay - that’s the end of the season as it will be snow or bad weather by the time I get it sorted. Not really sure exactly what is amiss. I think it’s the MC.

When we brought ours home one of the first things we found was that the brake MC was leaking and had been doing so for years - fluid had been ruining the engine bay paint and soaking the drivers side carpet - I don’t know how the previous owner drove it like that. We replaced the failed unit with a new one from Moss rather than rebuild the existing one. Did the same for the clutch MC and happy we did. Bleeding the clutch was indeed as much of a PITA as everyone said, but there’s a good video out there that demonstrates a trick for bleeding slave cylinders using a ratchet socket and a C-clamp.

I did not fill with oil -- the rack is sealed and I did not want to open it. I added red grease inside of the boots and figured that would be good enough for the amount of use that I plan to see.

You are exactly right! Ask me how I know :)

@@marbleheadmg Same way I found out I bet!

I've learned that sometimes these design "features" are to aid the manufacturing and assembly process, versus operation and maintenance.

It's on the list!

Thanks @johnsmith-tv5ep -- unfortunately the video device is an iPhone 13 Pro inside of a LifeProof case, so the audio can be hit-or-miss.

We did end up up applying red RTV to the timing chain cover gasket. In retrospect we should have used sealant for some of the other gaskets as well, particularly the front engine plate gasket.

@@marbleheadmg yep, old motors are like old people most have a lot of 'wrinkles' over the years on thin skin!

The clunking is only in reverse yes -- it's due to a chewed-up reverse idler gear. We'll be replacing that over the winter.

It's amazing when a project comes to life after months of work!

@@marbleheadmg indeed. In that process, one can almost feel rushes of adrenaline with each system’s refurbishment. I almost wonder if we stop before each system is fully finished. Thus, “the job is never done.” I really don’t care about the answer here, because the first drive is so completely exhilarating. Why fix what isn’t broken. Your car is lovely.

Hah! What were you looking for, a professional how-to video? :)

@@marbleheadmg no, just the location of the bolt/nuts and all that would have been nice. I agree with him!

Maybe a little more :) The clutch needed something special in addition to bleeding -- we'll be covering that in an upcoming episode.

Thanks! It's been a fun project :)

I don't know about "top", but we've certainly learned a lot about the car and we've had a lot of fun along the way, too. It helps to not be afraid of doing things wrong :) Good luck with the '77!

@@santiagoescalambre4738 As a non mechanic MG Midget owner (75 and a 76) who spins his own wrenches I can tell you that your car will never be done. It just gets good enough to drive and have fun with.

No, there's a bit of a timeline/continuity issue with the fuel pump video -- we just have the electrical pump.

I see that I didn't include the actual brake pad removal itself, and unfortunately I no longer have the raw footage. The pads should come right off, however. If they won't budge for some reason I recommend detaching the parking brake cable/lever, and you may need to clip the retaining spring(s) with a set of cutter to release additional tension. A tap with a hammer should dislodge the shoes if they are seized. You'll likely want to replace the shoes and springs anyway (they're not expensive see the buildup video for more on that).

PB Blaster is your new best friend! (and a blowtorch too)

Thanks! We have more videos we'll be sharing over the upcoming days/weeks.

Excellent! While the 79 midget has some idiosyncrasies it's actually a fairly simple machine to work on -- a great father/kid(s) project!

The clip of the distributor with the cap removed was me confirming that the firing order was correct. I thought that I had it 180-off, but actually it just needed a twist.

Thanks very much @peteporpora1630! I actually have a lowering kit sitting in my Moss shopping cart -- definitely on the short list of enhancements :)

Glad it was helpful!

No idea! Ours is a 1979 -- it's all one piece. Recommend heading over to www.mgexp.com -- lots of experts hanging out there.