No. That is more than you need for these and would make them too tight and maybe damage it. Might be OK for loosening them only. I would recommend using a handheld wrench or ratchet instead of an impact driver.

Oh no! I’m sorry to hear that. Unfortunately I have sold my scooter so I can’t reference it to tell you. It’s hard to tell w/o knowing what they did to try to steal it. As I recall there was a starter motor bolted onto the engine and a relay switch for it under the seat (you have to take the tub out). You could try checking those things to make sure they are working along with the switch on the handlebars and the key assembly to make sure power is getting through. If you can tell it has power when the key is turned then that part is ok and I would look at the switch and relay. Just take it one part at a time and try to rule it in/out as the problem. Hope that helps and good luck!

If you need to get into the handlebar area mostly it is screwed together and is accessible through the front panels. Looks for small black screws-there are several-and start gently trying to pry off. You may be able to find the service manual online that will tell you how to take it fully off b

Thats great to hear. Cheers!

No, those are the stock ones (US model, 2009 I think)

There are marks on the dipstick. It should be between those. Some models do not have a dipstick so you may have to measure the oil before putting in.

Hi, the only container under the seat is the gas (at least on the model I have). The two stroke may have a container for oil if it’s not premixed?

I’m sorry I do not have this scooter anymore so cannot make new vids on it. I remove the spark plug at about the 4:00 mark in this video so you can see how you’d replace it there. The CDI is easy-it’s next to the battery. It’s got a single connector. Just unplug the old one and remove it. Plug in the new one and snap it into the same place.

@@nd1996mn hi found we're the spark plug is and changed it and I found out I have already have the original cdi and everything runs smooth and iam just gonna get some fuses just for bk up I've also changed the battery and air filter thanks for your help 😉👍👍

Thank you for the kind words! Glad you found them useful.

Hi. I’m sorry to say I don’t know much about the electrical system and it would be hard to troubleshoot without seeing it. You can find the wiring diagram online and there are articles on how to test some of the components.

@@nd1996mn thank you very much

I think the manual recommends 15w-40. I believe you only need about 1 quart

Yes, .004 inch (or 0.1mm) for both

.005 intake ,.004 exhaust , standard for gy6 engine

Thank you! Safe riding!

Le Maître This one is a 4T. If you have an oil drain bolt and fill hole (with measuring stick) as shown in the video it should be a 4T. You do not change the oil on a 2T.

Lawrence Sand yes

ok thanks...

Maikel Peeters calm down

I’m sorry, I don’t. I would guess you could find one online.

Manuel Luis Catanduanes yes, it just might not get all the old oil out (I think the hole for the drain bolt sits slightly lower). Probably not enough to do any harm though.

Samuel Yes, people do that and it can work. However, It can leave a small amount of gas in the tank and carb though which can gum up (if not stabilized) and get sucked into the jets when you run the bike next. Even draining the carb like I show leaves a small amount of gas in the bowl. Depending on where you live, condensation can form in the empty tank too from temp changes causing it to rust. I found this approach to be safest, even if maybe a little over cautious.

jayman826 the valve in the carburetor float bowl might be stuck closed.

nd1996mn I checked the float bowl and nothing is wrong with it

jayman826 hmm...if you are getting fuel through the tube (when applying vacuum to the fuel valve), but the bowl is dry, there aren’t many places left to look. Either that passageway is blocked in the carb body between the bowl and the tube, or the valve is stuck closed. If the bowl is wet/full, but you aren’t getting fuel to the engine, then the carb jets are plugged and the carb needs a cleaning.

nd1996mn kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHOQZZ15jNWlbMk

Hmmm...when you rotate the flywheel do the rocker arms (the part that pushes on the end of the valve) move? Another thing to check is if the cam is rotating...maybe the chain is broken? Im guessing your bike does not run currently?

nd1996mn after on revolution after ending in top dead center I recheck the rocker arm and they were super tight against the spring valve

jayman826 ok. It could be that the timing is off, or that they are stuck closed. When you spin the flywheel do the rocker arms move at all? Do the valves move at all?

nd1996mn oh and the chain isn't broken

nd1996mn I will check tomorrow today's weather on Chicago is crappy but hopefully it's just the timing is off...but if it's slightly off will it react that way??

Adrian Rubi i think so. There isn’t much torque on the drain bolt and it’s usually cooled off by the time you are putting the plug back in.

joe leeman ha! Yes, at least for the milliliters. The ounces side is what you'd expect: 4, 8, 12, etc.

oh and by the way, i already removed my kickstarter because of a recent incident. so i only rely on my battery.

Marlon Manicad maybe check the auto bystarter. It's an electronic choke that helps with cold starts and turns off as the engine warms up. They seem to break or wear out often. I would guess yours isn't working (doesn't turn on). When you heat the engine manually, it reaches a temp where the bystarter isn't needed, so it starts ok.

nd1996mn thanks for your reply, i've done some work around and included your ideas, it seemed helped a bit, i finally traced the cause, its the settings inside the carburetor i replaced it with a slightly bigger hole and to make it more efficient and permanent i replaced a new 9 amp battery too. Its working perfectly fine now.

allison Guitche hi. It wears over time. The gap gives some room for the parts to expand as the engine heats up. If it's too small the valves may not close all the way. If it's too large the valves won't open enough to let the right amount of air/fuel in, or the exhaust out. The adjustment to the gap keeps it operating optimally for the engine design.

I don't think it matters much if you are changing it frequently. All major brands that meet the latest certifications should be fine.

Synthetic.

Check it when the bike is level. It's easiest to put it on the center stand to do this.

Perfect, i'll do that. Thanks man!

Thank you!