The ctk03 could of taken a power surge wiping its memory thats a fairly old stat being a 03, if you know how to use a volt meter check across pins 1 & 3 in dc volts on the subbase of the thermostat

@@hvaciswin723 Thanks so much for the prompt reply. By subbase I am assuming you mean the 18 pin connector the stat plugs into. No indication which is pin 1 on the board so checked all 4 1 & 3 combinations. The pair on the upper left read at ~25mV dc. The other three pairs where around 4mV dc. You are correct in that it is old and I am going to replace it. What I am trying to do now is determine if it is the culprit. Service company wants to replace it and all the boards in the entire system even though no errors are showing. Have read numerous cases how this seldom is an effective approach. Often not solving the problem. I am trying to confirm if it is the stat or maybe the outside transformer associated. Power voltage is at 28 but have seen it is nominally supposed to be at 24.

@robertgarner1235 no on the stat wire connection 1, 2, r, c check across 1 & 2 looking for about .6 volts dc

@@hvaciswin723 Again, thanks. That is what I referenced earlier as data lines. With a DVM the dc voltage fluctuates at about 750mV +/- 100mV but it varies greatly. Put an oscilloscope on it. Line 1 has an alternating voltage of 500mv +/- 250mv. Line 2 has constant voltage of 300mv. Superimposed upon the 300mv baseline looks to be a square wave signal of 5 pulses consistently spaced in time but the pulses themselves are very erratic. Power voltage is still 28V.

Most likely time to upgrade to th ctk04ae tstat

Yes theres better options, im currently using the EEVmate tool

There has been higher G routers but its rare it has more to do with security algorithms

Yes there are some adjustments that can be made by installing contractor but sounds like the system duct work maybe under sized for the newer high efficiency equipment. Have your contractor check total system static .50 is the max for modern equipment

@@hvaciswin723dang i was reading his comment and the first thing came to my mind is the duct work is smaller and probably the return is small i want to bet on this

Under menu button, dealer information

You shoumdnt a code to change room temperature unless someone has put in a low temperature limit. Depending on your tstat you could set a programed schedule

Your welcome fixing to do a video on programming the blower

Depends on your model

I work with this stuff everyday

Amana is the same way with S series i work for a company that they send 2 of my coworkers to the training and i was the first one to sell them they gave me the book and one night i new how to instruct the installers and commission it

This unit is not for diy, guys really need training to get the most out of them

Whats your model number

Hi, I think you might be experiencing a similar problem to the one I solved yesterday. I don’t have AC so the problem was related to heating - but basically, after proper calibration, the Daikin One would only read the room temp accurately when the furnace was off. As soon as the furnace/HP would kick in, the indicated temps would be way off, and in response, the furnace would kick into high gear and blast us with hot air until the house felt far too hot. Finally after the furnace would stop, the t-stat temps would gradually increase and adjust to match the other thermometers we had in the room. It seemed like the system was causing its own feedback loop, and was driving me crazy. Finally yesterday, I realized that the t-stat is mounted in front of an air return duct. There’s a grille in the room above, and one below. So whenever the HVAC starts up, there’s air rushing behind it. Furthermore, the hole cut into the drywall where the tstat wires come through, is massive! So essentially, there was cool air blasting the back of the tstat whenever HVAC was running, which was skewing its readings and forcing it to react accordingly. The solution I found, was to insulate that hole. I cut a double-layer square of that thin packing foam that electronics are often packed with. Cut a slit for the wires, and placed the foam over the hole, so that it was sandwiched between the base plate and the wall. And lo and behold, the problem was instantly solved. You can probably use some sort of putty as well (like plumbers putty), but I like the foam packing material because it eliminates the draft and also insulates.

You ever figure this out? Mine is similar to yours.

I don't know if he'll reply, but I've had the one plus for a good year. It took several adjustments and dealer visits to get it working right. I'm in Florida too. If you don't wait 30 mins the thermostat may read wrong. I've run into that. I want to upgrade to the one touch thermostat, but I'm scared to lol

Working on a new video will show more about the numbers in dchecker

I would think closed, but thermistors control the valves position. Youll need to check them as well.

Under heat settings youll need to set a temperature for compressor lockout

You don’t, the circuit board turns it on and off according to conditions. You just tell it there is one and size of electric heat so it knows how much airflow to increase

Define aux heat type and where its mounted