Unfortunately, there are not to many lectures and they are presented at a fairly basic level. Where are you studying?

I also found a cordigera at RF Orchids in Homestead Florida. I think that these are pretty common in the US. I do really like the one that I show in this video-the blooms were large and dark. I also am not set up to ship plants internationally although I think that this would not be too difficult with my flasked plants. I do not think that I will ever ship large plants outside the US - this is more difficult. I might be able to self the plant the next time it blooms and sell the progeny while still in flasks. Thanks for your comment.

I have had that palm in my garden for many years - right now, it is 18F - when it get really cold (below 0), most of the above ground parts of the plant do not survive but it always grows back!

Thanks for this comment too. I wish you a happy new year in 2025!

Thanks for your comment - your English is good - but, you do not need to tell me about these things as I already know them.

If you are interested in my flasks and are in the US, please contact me at [email protected] and I can follow up with additional information. I flask mostly Cattleyas and a few Dens but I have a small lab and do not have too many different orchids. My flasks are pretty nice and more economical than the flasks that others sell.

Thanks for this suggestion but this orchid was named in a drawing yesterday. The new name can be found: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nKTLhWV-m7-Np5Y I purchased this orchid from Jade Orchids in Naples, FL and do not believe that they have any more of these left.

Thanks for your comment - I do know a lot of people that have gone to growing smaller stature orchids. When I see some of the huge orchids that my colleagues grow, I just roll my eyes because I do not have the space. I know others who have gone so far that they are growing only miniatures. I think those are just too small. I have seen many growers who are stocking smaller plants with slightly smaller flowers. For me, there is nothing like a large flower but I try to get those on slightly smaller plants, which I think means faster blooms. I agree that Mother Nature is fickle - wish that I had a greenhouse but my space and budget are both quite small...

I have done a plus/minus screen with the mycorrhizae but do not yet have the results from that. Hopefully, when I get back to the lab, I will have some preliminary data to share....

Once the plants are in pots, I let them grow. But, I do not bother to pot up the smaller seedlings from the flasks - I have found that the runts just do not do as well as the bigger vigorous seedlings. Because I have so many seedlings in each flask and limited space to grow them, I just do not want to mess with the weak growers. I will take runts only if I have exceptionally low numbers of seedlings. I have been told by some people that the runts give the nicest flowers but I do not believe them. The strong growers usually come from the bigger plants and I hold onto those. For the more vigorous seedlings, I do select seedlings at a very young age - 2 months after flasking, I select the most vigorous seedlings for replating using a dissecting microscope. I think that many others just scoop up everything for replating whereas I am extremely selective. For bark vs sphagnum, I only use classic grade Orchiata bark for my deflasked seedlings. Orchiata is the premiere bark and I do not use the smaller size (Precision) or larger size (power) as they do not work as well. I have tried sphagnum (maybe not the right type?) and other media and they are not as good for seedling growth. Thanks for your comment and Happy New Year!

It seemed like people liked the name. I doubt that this will make your daughter famous in the orchid world but it is a nice thing to happen....

Thanks for the suggestion of the name and for participating! If you want a division of the plant when it is ready, please contact me at [email protected] and we can go from there....

Yeah - it is now showing here - yay....

I wonder how many others have this same plant?

The namer has not replied yet - hopefully, we will hear a follow up. Yes - congrats

Happy Propagating!

Happy New Year and Happy Propagating!!

You think that was a lot of talking, you should listen to my newer videos...... Thanks for watching and for your comment!

Hi Debbie, Please contact me at [email protected] for further assistance.

Unfortunately, I am not as patient as I need to be. I want fast flowers and have been getting that with some of my crosses. I think that I can use my fast blooming Cattleyas and Dendrobiums in crosses to get faster flowering of future hybrids. Thanks for your comment and Happy New Year!!

The introduced genes are typically integrated into the nuclear DNA of the petunia, which means that they will be inherited just like any other native DNA in the plant. They could have used a non-seed bearing line (sterile) but I am pretty sure that they did not do that. So, this gene will be passed on through the pollen or seed parent. Thanks for watching and for your comment. And, Happy New Year!!

@ do you happen to know anyone who has seeds form them?

@@reallymattis8016 Sorry but no, I do not know anyone who has seed from them. They are still selling plants but they are pretty expensive - and, they do not ship in the winter.

Thanks for the constructive comments - I am OK with this - I do not like the comments that are just aggressive and critical with no resolution. I did want to show the flasks at the beginning because the roots on the plants in those flasks were so nice. At the beginning of my lectures and talks that I give, I provide an overview so that the audience knows what is coming. It is an old habit that I can try to minimize.

This sounds a lot like the plant that I show - I think that it was growing well for the vendor and they kept on dividing and selling them. I do try to stay away from the older hybrids, although some of them are favorites because they do so well. I think that the only option is to just get rid of the plants that do not bloom well under your conditions. One viewer commented that my plant may now bloom more often since it has reached a critical stage. But, I am not willing to give this plant any more chances - I should have tossed it a few years ago... Thanks for your comment!!

@plantpropagator I agree! I intend to just place them somewhere in the garden where they'll increase humidity for the other plants and forget about them! At least they'll be useful..😄😄😄

Thanks for watching and for your comment! I am always happy to share...

Thanks - I have not seen any other siblings from the plant that I have, which is a clone. And the only registered progeny from Lila Ashitomi is from me. I am hoping to get the yellow with darker flaring or some yellow and purples/reds mixed in. I do know that Toshi Aoki is used a lot in crosses and my plant of that hybrid has not bloomed yet. Thanks for your comment and hoping for some nice new hybrids from these crosses.

Thanks for your nice comment and for watching!!

The lighting is the same as what I use for the flasks. So, they are used to this light (and it is not that low - the camera adjusts the light level). Even when I take them outside, the seedlings are in pretty heavy shade - otherwise they will get burned. It is always best to transition slowly with regard to light and humidity. I do not maintain any of my plants under lights - I do not have the appropriate facilities right now. Thanks for your comment..

@plantpropagator thanks for your detailed explanation 😎✌️

So that I could see the roots and plants grow? That is a great idea - will set it up next time!! Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks for watching and for your comment. I even select my new orchids from vendors based more on the roots than anything else. And, I do like that they are photosynthetic too - more energy for more growth!!

Thanks for your comment - I am still here and still making videos - it is fun for me - not work. Have a great New Year!!

@ You have a safe and happy New Year!

Wait!!... Is someone else besides me excited about orchid roots??!!! Thanks for your comment!

I did make a video on spraying my seedlings and mature plants with the mycorrhizal fungi: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqvRn5yhmdGeo7M and they turned out really well. For the mycorrhizal fungi application, this works on seedlings as a way to vaccinate them against pathogenic fungi but, it may not work on mature plants, if they are already infected. I am doing a proper plus/minus screening now with some of my seedlings so those results are not in yet.

Thanks - I think that they are showing me how happy they are - makes me smile...🙂

Your observations are very good. After the time in the sealed tubs, I can often just bring my orchids directly outside here in southwest Florida, due to the very high humidity. It is not fair but I can often do that here. I am more worried about the roots growing on the surface of the bark, rather than the ones that are buried in the medium - those should be OK even when shifting to low humidity. The gradual lowering of humidity is a standard tissue culture method and not something that I started on my own.

@@plantpropagator Oh, yes, it is fair! I can do the same here in summer (now, here in the southern hemisphere.) It's been raining every single day for weeks!

If you want to try some of my flasks and live in the US, please contact me at [email protected] for more information.

Hi, I really enjoy this content. Do you sell those flasks? If is yes, where can I buy them? 🎉😂❤

@@jehamymedinafinch1515 If you are interested in obtaining my flasks and are located in the US, you can contact me at [email protected] and I can provide further information. Thanks for your comment.

Happy to share my videos with you!!

Thanks for watching this older video and for your comment! As always, happy to share....

They were healthy and many of these plants have already bloomed for me. Their source of their plants must be very good at deflasking and growing baby plants.

Thanks for watching and for your comment!

Thanks for the positive comments. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!

Thanks - hard to see in the bright light - I took another video a few days later, the day that I actually left FL. That video was a little less rushed since I did not need to get through everything!

Merry Christmas to you too!! 🎄🎄

not sure what a doublecoupler is....???

I do appreciate constructive criticism but not vitriolic criticism. I just looked at the scientific literature on flowering in Phals. That literature shows that flowering is induced by both temperature and photoperiod. In the studies where the photoperiod was maintained constant. flowering was induced by cooler temperatures. In Florida, the temperature change that I was referring to is the cooler temperatures that we are now seeing during this time of the year. Do you have any knowledge that says that lower temps are not involved at all in flower induction in Phals?

@@plantpropagator 4 years of testing to prove the literature is not correct, yes. That is why I would encourage you to try yourself. It's so easy. Just keep a few phals in your living room where tempertaures do not drop as much. Don't forget the literature proved for centuries the earth was flat. That is why I brought it up. Who in the orchid community cares to disprove this myth? People just prefer to quote outdated literature year after year without ever testing it. It does annoy me, you are right about that. I have mentioned it to so many orchid growers and it is always perceived as a criticism instead of a mission to enlighten people.

I am afraid that my living room does not provide the same precise controlled conditions as the laboratories and greenhouses where the following research was done. I used to have this in my old university but, at my current university, I do not have access to these type of controlled growth conditions. This is good science that was published in respected refereed journals. The first 2 papers are from Michigan State University, which is well respected and known. I just went through a few of these papers - they are all pretty solid. If you wish to pursue this, read these papers first. You need to make sure that you have temperature control and monitoring, as well as light intensity and photoperiod control. Collect the data with precisely grown plants (as in these papers) and write it up for submission. I have been an editor for a few different scientific journals and I can assist you in your submission, if you like... Blanchard, Matthew G., and Erik S. Runkle. "Temperature during the day, but not during the night, controls flowering of Phalaenopsis orchids." Journal of experimental botany 57.15 (2006): 4043-4049. Newton, Linsey A., and Erik S. Runkle. "High-temperature inhibition of flowering of Phalaenopsis and Doritaenopsis orchids." HortScience 44.5 (2009): 1271-1276. Paradiso, Roberta, Albino Maggio, and Stefania De Pascale. "Moderate variations of day/night temperatures affect flower induction and inflorescence development in Phalaenopsis." Scientia horticulturae 139 (2012): 102-107. Yoneda, Kazuo, Hirofumi Momose, and Satoshi Kubota. "Effects of daylength and temperature on flowering in juvenile and adult Phalaenopsis plants." Journal of the Japanese Society for Horticultural Science 60.3 (1991): 651-657.

@@plantpropagator thanks John, I've read all those papers. I'm not going to write my own as I haven't performed it to scientific standards as you say, just a hobby thermostat controller but for plants, that is in my opinion perfectly adequate. I have been performing the experiment for 4 years and will continue every year, 4 phals in a temperature controlled environment kept between 20-25 degrees C. The only light they get is from LED lighting so without any change from me they would remain in vegetative state indefinetely. I initiate flowering by reducing the light hours as you already mentioned. No change in temperature. Then as a reference I have a further 12 phals I keep between 16-20 degrees C over winter, so basically what you suggested they "need" grown with sunlight. If the hypothesis were true that phals start to flower due to temperature changes you would expect my temperature controlled phals to not initiate spiking but like I mentioned I have disproved it too many times for me to believe this. I also believe that it is a matter of misinterpretation by orchid growers over the years that has led to this myth. The reason is very simple. A temperature over 26 degrees C will inhibit phalaenopsis to flower. So the orchids do need to be in the correct range in order to successfully flower. But that is a big difference to them starting to flower due to a temperature change. They initiate flowering due to the light change in autumn. As long as temperatures are in the right range. Otherwise they do not. But if your phals are grown in the right temperature range for flowering then a reduction in temperature will have no effect. I hope you understand my distinction. Anyway Merry belated Christmas. Thanks for taking the time to link those articles

@@tomfurmby88 OK - I see - and I agree with you that is it not a temperature CHANGE but rather a permissive temperature that promotes flowering. When I say change, that is the winter temperatures here that replace the hot summer temperatures. I have visited the largest Phalaenopsis grower in the US and they just grow the deflasked orchids at low temperature to promote quick and early flowering. The papers that I sent you do not say specifically change - just inductive temps. And, as with many different orchids, they can be photoperiodic. Clearly some orchids always bloom the same time of the year due to photoperiod - as with many other plants. So, there are both temperature requirements and maybe photoperiod requirements. But, what you are saying is not contradictory but already supported by the scientific literature.

Thanks for your comment. I apply the inoculant at 3 weeks to deflasked seedlings and occasionally apply on my adult plants, as I show in this video. I do not yet have the scientific data to show that this is better for seedlings - only what a few others have told me. I did set up a small plus/minus experiment so I will have some information soon. For the mature plants, I think that the effects may be less pronounced and I have done this fewer times. It may be beneficial for mature plants, but not when plants are already infected with a pathogenic fungus.