Haha

Whoa.. totally original comment there bud

@ your math threw me off 🤷

@@oxeduss8010 I know i know 🤦

You too brotha!

Haha this was supposed to be on my other channel Lol

@alexander2685 Yeah man that's a good unit. I also love vintage Craftsman hand tools. The old school all metal stuff... super cool

Hey I'm glad! It's impressive that you got 15 plus years out of those. *In Hank Hill voice: "Your system is probably set up pretty nice with low resistance and no rub points on the cables or door. A perfectly level 1" shaft gently gliding through perfectly spaced end bearings. The new springs reeling up the now lubricated door. In this moment, all is right in the world." Anyway man I appreciate you. Thank you for the comment!

Thanks man

That's just a comfortable pace for a lot of technicians. There are a lot of guys who can not only match my speed but some can do half turns at a time. Depends on your experience and the strength of a spring. These vids are just me doing my thing. I can't tell you what's worth watching, but I'm pretty safe.

As a cocky and arrogant man I'm going to give you a tip: To protect your teeth, simply avoid putting your face directly under the bar.

I was using the thick end. You can see in the video

Fist bump if you've done them before

That's totally possible! Though after I replaced the trolley it worked pretty well. So it's hard to comment on that. I did make a longer video about it on my channel. It's called "oww my teeth" You'll be able to see the unit run after the part was switched.

Another fun fact: In the residential repair industry, we come to you! That's why we charge what we call a "trip charge" or "service call fee" Glad i could provide some clarity ;)

What kind of trouble?

@garageDoorFUBARmanual it can push the cable drum against the carriage bolt that holds the bearing plate. This will cause a lot of friction wearing the edge of the drum off in extreme cases. One spring can grow close to 2" as it comes down, however on a door with 2 springs, they cancel each other, not sliding the shaft either way. I always have 1/4" between the drum and the bearing plate to prevent them from rubbing together. By stretching the springs it will cause the shaft to move left to right. The best thing a person can do to keep springs working without extra friction is keep them oiled with something that does not evaporate, some kind of oil. I do a lot of retrofits in old homes with old garages that prevent me from placing the carriage bolt completely clear of interference with the drum. Therefore I never stretch springs, neither single or double spring doors. I hope this makes sense. Message if needed further clarification.

@Edward-xj4mp Here's my thought process: if the beating plate is good, then it's okay because the beating rotates with the drum. I leave a little breathing room if possible, but if there's an obstacle preventing me from adjusting the track then my first priority is to make sure the cable clears the edges of the door, no touching or rubbing. So that helps me determine L or R, which way i need to slide the drum. But yeah, basically they both rotate simultaneously so i feel confident in saying that i observe no friction. Usually any damage is caused by a fouled cable either misaligned and slowly sharpening the rim of the drum wearing it down, or a drum shattered by a fouled cable. Whenever i inspect the cable, i always make sure carriage bolt threads are facing away from the cable and prefer rounded bolts to the common head 9/16" or 1/2 poopoo bolts some people throw in there. I can't see your entire comment while I'm typing, so that's all for this one. But instead of calling the video "bad advice".. We could just say that most of your concern is based on a different spring setup not featured in this video. Single spring... So speaking of a single spring setup, yes, i have observed shaft travel. ..Can't remember all the other questions you had Lol

Beating plate Lol Bearing plate

Ah KZbin... why have you disabled clicks???

But watch what happens.. it's mildly amusing

@@ddrruumm7 thanks brotha!

Welcome, my dude. Keep at it. :)

@@alexandercage2500 I appreciate that!

@joeymotu I appreciate you sir. And in my opinion, this garage door opener is actually quieter than the Chamberlain whisper drive. Ooo.. speaking of specs: There has been a lot of harsh weather going on; how did the Beam Up do? I just remembered that yours has battery backup

I also appreciate your kind words and look forward to assisting you in the future!

@frankieg1135 thank you! I love to talk about specs and mechanics/ functionality. So whenever i come across cool products I do consider that. It's really cool you think so. So thank you :)

@cdubie3034 i actually had a guy tell me i wasnt going fast enough lol these are just a pair of .218s

That's a cool trick too. I was able to change out the distributor assembly on my old 94' ranger using a chalk line. I got within 1-2° of correctly setting the timing too. Close enough to have an automotive mechanic fine tune it

I have more coming. Please subscribe!

@@michaelhibdon1736 the shaft is fine i assure you

So you're saying I'm not doing it fast enough?

@@Snake56230 there is a way to replace hinges and rollers workout touching the springs or cables.. 7/16" magnetic socket Do NOT try to hold spring tension with vice grips alone. Winding bars can temporarily hold tension. Do not touch the springs or cables unless you have prior experience. You can get hurt or mess up the functionality of the garage door if you don't reinstall the parts back with the correct tension. Anyway, yes, you could change out the hinges and roller (track wheels) with a 7/16" socket without touching the spring system. DO NOT touch the bottom wheel as its bracket is attached to the cable a and spring system. There is a specific method to change the bottom wheels while leaving that bracket in place. You will get injured if you attempt to take the screws out if the bottom bracket. The bracket will want to fly up if it is still under spring tension. For the bottom rollers you should watch a video specifically for replacing them in which you pry open the top of the vertical tracks and pry the roller out of the track while the door is open. If you've never done it or are unsure, please call a pro. Paying a tech to come out may not be in the budget, but it's cheaper than getting hurt.

Problem is it’s my tacks that are jacked up. Can I prop up the door with wood and weasel out one track at a time?

@@Snake56230 if you keep the door closed its possible you'll be able to replace one vertical track at a time. You'll have to be very careful but it's doable.

@@sz4179 never smacked a cone before?

@@ogrebirthh why thank you lol i got those at amarr

Had to order them

@@bossmanz28 thank you bossman

@@salvadorvalladolid2076 yes

I assume you are referring to the cables on each side of the door. Since you reset your springs, I would make sure you tensioned the springs correctly. 7ft tall door means 7 turns on each spring. (torsion springs). If they were extension springs then that's harder to explain, but you wouldn't want to stretch them beyond 67". If you have a wayne dalton setup, then things get a little more hairy to explain over text. What do you think?

If you haven't wound springs before, it may be good to get some help as danger can creep up in all sorts of different ways

How did the cables get loose?

Oh, also, if you've got it back together and the door comes back up before it reaches the bottom.. the door could be too heavy for the garage door opener. You can check the balance of the door by lifting it by hand and see if it stays in place as you lift it one panel at a time. Here's a short vid of what a balance looks like. Basically a balance text ensures that the springs are lifting the door correctly and that you don't have too much or too little tension on the springs. If you have a broken spring, you won't be able to do this until it's replaced. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ap-3c3hvj7Obm8k

Hrm.. didn't think of that Lol send it brother!

Is there any specific adjustment that you'd like to see?

That's great! Feel free to pick my brain. I can respond back with tips. A lot of my subscribers are also seasoned pros and experienced people who are usually happy to share their experiences and knowledge! Anyway, I appreciate that you were able to find some value in my video! Keep that mechanical passion alive my friend!

Dude so do I lmao

.. not that you're a dude..i just say that sometimes lol

You can thank me with a subscription ;)

When you say you got the weight down to 40 lbs... are you saying that you got it to where it feels like 40lbs when you lift the door? I'm trying to see if I'm interpreting your message correctly?

I also hope you are alright!

@@garageDoorFUBARmanual Thank you for the kind words. As far as the "weight", I read that you should roll the door down, without the opener connected of course, and put a bath scale underneath it. The weight of the door at that point should be 30 to 40 lbs, and adjust your spring load accordingly...

@@marko7843 Np! Hey if it helps you in the future, I do have a video showing what a garage door balance should look like. I'm also going to drop an additional video relevant to what you describe.. it's not the vid that comes out tomorrow.. i basically can't give it away just yet, but I'm going to keep you in mind my friend.

@@garageDoorFUBARmanual I've probably found every mistake that you can make, but I appreciate it anyway. 😝