For part interface with fuzzy skin you can also make an objet modifier (at least in prusa) so that only the outer shell is fuzzied.

Didn't know this option, thanks for the video

Guys, I'm waiting my ender 3 s1 plus. Does ender have this option? 🤔

i see you have a k40 laser, is it any good?

Thanks for the video. Your final comments about bringing manufacturing back to America strikes me as a bit ironic while using a Chinese made 3d printer. :)

If you increase the speed of external perimeters when using fuzzy skin, you can reduce the print time but don't forget if you turn off fuzzy skin to reduce the speed again.

🥱

Would you by any chance release or sell the STL files ?

Please upload high-res photos of the fuzzy tests. Hard to distinguish them with the uneven lighting and blur effects

you could even improve the look and get around the fitting issue as well by modifing your 3D model with an actual texture you like. Use any texture you find as a displacement and convert it into the mesh itself. there are a lot of tutorials on how to achieve this in blender. With this method you are able to add variations of your product and by masking the sections where it needs to fit other parts you are ready to go.

Not sure a standard feature available in pretty much all modern slicers really justifies a 10 minute video. But ok, I guess it may be useful to some.

Definitely some cool ideas on your store but DAMN those prices.

I get that this is to avoid the PP, but if you did want a smooth looking piece then it seems like the fuzz might still be better than normal printing, being random and thus without the obvious pattern of the layer lines seems like it would take less sanding and filling to get a mostly smooth look. 🤔🤔

It would be more appropriate to do some parts of the model this way via stl.

10 minutes of waffle, for 1 tick of a checkbox!

Key takeaway is 0.3mm fuzz thickness and 0.3mm fuzz distance.

🙄🙄..... This is completely misleading..... He said "no more layer lines".... Also can't see the fuzzy bit... Get some lights

Fail with resin???? Ok you Need to be onest....Is impossible fail with resin.

Thanks for the video, very well done. Great story. I've been printing boxes and parts on A1 since the beginning of the year, but I haven't tried that feature yet. I guess it's time to try it. Thanks

Have you try electric grinding and polishing? Im pretty sure that you can do two parts in "that" hour, at least

I mean this is cool but essentially we're trading layer lines for a complete textured print Again yeah that's kind of cool, but personally i think the layer lines look better But I could see fuzz being useful in certain applications

Kewl video but can you make a knob for editing videos in DaVinci Resolve?

Please get a respirator for sanding and priming. No arguments, its for your lung health.

after such long time im finding this video only now, after seeing it feels like droping weights off my shoulders

Lol that's nothing new it's been around for the past 6 years. Also calibration is key to getting ride of layer lines.

You dont have to heat acetone up to vapor smooth. Its already volatile. You just have to hang your priny in a sealed container with acetone in it

Fuzzy skin has been a feature in Cura and PrusaSlicer, for at least 2 years (Cura even longer than that) ! If you really have done a research how could you have missed it?!

I personally don’t understand why people go through such lengths to hide the fact that a thing was 3D printed. As of writing this comment, 3D printing is still a novelty. It is reaching the point quickly where most people can just buy one, but it is still a new and cool concept. I feel that for many people, owning something that was 3D printed would be a cool novelty. Not only do you have an alarm clock, but you have something that someone created with a little machine in their house. I understand that in some applications it is good to hide the fact that something was printed, mostly with cosmetic parts like cosplay props or things you want to have look like they were professionally made, but for me it doesn’t make much sense to go about trying to hide the fact that a thing you’re selling out of your house is 3D printed.

It was a great video and very informational. Helped me with everything I need to do to print TPU on the A1 -thank you.

Do you Iron the upper surfice?

Any CF filaments will also help the lines blend in my experience

Great video, it was really helpful. Thanks for sharing!

Save you 10 minutes: use fuzz skin

Im new to 3d printing so this was very informative, despite not getting to the point its a lot more layman/noob friendly

you really should give Resin Printing another try. you said something about your parts being brittle ? its probably because of Over Cooking it in the UV, or Under Curing during mfg. with Halot Mage - most of the resins ive played with have a cure time of 2-5 seconds per layer - so if youre doing anything at 1.2, its not enough and will rip apart. and take the supports Off BEFORE you UV Cure the parts. not after. you can use Warm Water to soften the supports and it REALLY HELPS them pop right off. especially if you have TONS of supports. just let it soak for 30sec, then pull some off, and repeat. dont let it soak for 2min or you will hurt the model. and not 180°F water either.

7 minutes of intro...

MJF printed parts are pretty dang affordable.. Alternatively, filaments like Protopasta Empire strikes black PETG hide layer lines really well (similar to Carbon fiber filaments without the damage to the nozzle)

It feels stronger. Another weak zoomer kid that feels things that ought to be scientifically proven.

Bored to tears by the brief or to the point time use

Summary: nothing new there, but your video is useful because the tests your made with the fuzzy skin.

thank you!!

Your dedication to your craft is evident.

gracias por compartir no tenia idea que existiera n i de como usarlo exito y salud

This should have just been a youtube short. Meh.

So. You didn't solve the problem.

In what way ABS + acetone didn't work for you?

No has pensado en colocar tu canal con audio en español? La comunidad de habla hispana que usa bambulab es muy grande y hay pocas personas que expliquen los vídeos como tu.

Have you tried making Silicone molds? Casting each piece would take less than 15 minutes using 2 part resin that you can pour and cure and you can dye the resin in any color. There are also minimal post processing.

Wait until he hears about marble pla or 0.2mm nozzles. Plus those prices for aluminium tooling was nuts. Half the price and could get steel for that. Thats the trade off. Rolling price for unit pricing making the clock $30 not $200

I felt this video in my soul after having gone through the exact process you did. I have had a product injection molded before but it cost over 100k and the end result wasn’t even much stronger than an fdm part. Currently selling my anycubic m3 max because of the brittleness