You did a great job. And very helpful video. I have one recommendation about a glass of water, should be covered on top for it is not safe to remain that way for long time or use something like bottle..

Another fake BIG DISCOVERY video. I stopped at ~6:30 after I didn't get single bit of information promised in title, only bunch of babbling from the "before we show you how, let's talk about the origin of the universe and the evolution of humans" group.

if you ever want to return to maintaining glossy parts without spray paint - another super quick option would be to thin down uv curable nail polish or craft fluid with rubbing alcohol then thinly coat the parts and cure them - you can play with the viscosity proportions of polish to alcohol. I do this with my artificial nails. Not necessarily practical for all situations but I am sure you will run into a customer request eventually in the future asking for metallic or mirror shine products

I started 3D printing with a resin machine and I can tell you didn't tried enough by printing with it, it is messy until you bought equipment to make things better like a washing machine or a dryer. Also the warp issue probably is a setting you need to set on the printer maybe giving it more exposure time or using the setting the resin indicates, maybe getting a better resin(? There are too many kind of resins and some of them are even unbreakable because they're used for mechanical stuff or high resistance applications.

So, if i still want a smooth print, is it less of a hassle to use the fuzzy setting and sand it down from there? I've got two X1Cs that print very well, and I'm getting to the point of dealing with the lines. I tried a bit of MEK, but it did more damage than good.

Could you provide an image of your fuzzy tests for comparison so we could choose the best for the project we may be printing. I think this is a great finish for dragon skin

Could also use ironing

Did you ever tried a rock tumbler?

Great video Jake! Thanks for sharing!

ive never seen someone want the fuzzy effect or think it looks good

love this video

Oh yeah, resin 3d printing is extremely messy. I used to do it in my appartment, never ever again!

Looks like textured spray paint. Also don’t give up on resin printing. Your supports just suck. All you need is some tutorials.

Acetone doesn't need to be heated, created an enclosed Acetone vapor chamber for ABS parts works great though. Plenty of resource online for how to do that. It just takes some time. Which can be more precious a resource. Just an FYI.

Best explanation of the fuzzy skin settings. Thanks!

Diamond-shaped knurling on vertical FDM-printed surfaces hides lines too and looks better than white noise. It requires at least 0.1mm layers to keep knurl shape precision. But it's possible to speed up the printing by using "Infill Combination" option in Orca Slicer and print 1 line of infill per 2 lines of walls.

you can use a modefyer object and overlap it over the parts of the model you want to have or not have fuzzy skin to keep the amount of sanding you have to do way down. to do this just right click the opject in the menu click add modifier there is a bunch of basic shapes you can use or you can import your own model it will appear as a transparent opject just use the move and scale tool to put it in the spot you don't/do want fuzzy skin switch to objects instaid of global then in the others tab fuzzy skin should appear enable/disabel fuzzy skin and any overlaping parts will have/have no fuzzy skin.

Was hoping for a true asbsense of print lines - clickbaity title. The best for your case would really still be the sand prime and paint solution and then make a silicone mold or a few molds and then cast in resin that cures in an hour, this way you could scale.

Anyone know if there’s a feature like this on flashprint? That’s my slicer

You can get strength based Resin. Bad resin is quite brittle which sounds like what you had. Also full enclosure UV treatment of the finished product is the BEST solution vs just sitting it in sun or shining a small UV lamp on it.

I tried printing a phone case with my bambu lab a1 using jamg he tpu , i used “generic tpu” profile and the result was a mess, any tips??

My machine hides the EXT in the final press of print if AMS is connected to back. It ignores EXT options and has NO WAY of selecting EXT with AMS power cable still connected. EDIT: I was pressing Print, not send. oops EDIT2: Found that needed to be in LAN ONLY mode which is not working right atm. SO easiest way is disconnect AMS, turn machine on and proceed as usual. That way the AMS detection won't block the use of EXT filament by the software.

Is there a way to print TPU and PETG together? I want to make a lid with TPU edges but the rest of it PETG or PLA. Ideally the TPU would go in the AMS lite.

I've just started printing on my idi plus4 after being in the original ender 3 for years, so never plut too much thought into modifying the slicer settings in the past now with the quality 3d printers are capable of on a consistent basis... Thanks I'll give it a go!

Resin isnt the Boogeyman, most cleaning products are pretty toxic and most people smoke/drink rather toxic stuff. Is a drip mat really too much for people worried about the "mess"? Its perfectly rine if the material or process does not meet your needs but people qlway make it sound worse than it is.

I enjoy your gentle nature and soft speaking. Way too many people who make videos are very loud and have harsh editing styles. It’s nice to see something a little different.

I feel like I should've heard about this earlier, can't wait to try it out! Thank you!

Hey Jake, Fuzzy Skin Mode is also available in Creality Print 5.0

Did you find a better model for speed and performance to run on pi 5 since? Thanks

Is tpu only able to print through .8mm nozzle.

All wall is useful for transparent materials

You know what I appreciate the most about this video? Every sort of “helping you do a business” type video is trying to sell a related service. I hate that. It’s nothing but a sales pitch. But this is just for the love of the game. Sure, you’re doing a bit of product marketing, but it’s an unrelated product and not a service, and I respect that a lot more

5 minutes to get to the point. My Gawd. We don't want your entire life history. Just get to the point. Why do all YooToobers feel the need to ramble on adnauseam about unimportant things.

Just discovered this channel, i love your work!

The resin printing section was rough... Definitely sounds like user error for the most part. Plenty of companies use resin printing to prototype very accurate designs without material warping. , Although I suspect even if you got it working correctly, the material costs would eventually be a hinderance to you.

Now does the FLSUN S1 Pro have a fuzzy mode? Id assume it'll be able to do it. But i'll let ya know as soon as mine shows up on the door.

try printing at 0.1mm layer lines or 0.8mm and using some sparkly filament! -> will most likely give you a look as if the layer lines vanished!

Meh I think that the ironing setting works better, go to printables to find an ironing test to find the optimal values.

What I don't understand is, you started with a Solid Doodle Printer and went to a Bambu A1. Did you have to buy the Bambu to start printing with Bambu software? And also, did you try the Bambu printer, to see if it reduces print lines? Personally, I do not like that texture. If I know I am getting a 3d printer part, I expect layer lines. Why not try Casting the 3D printer part and make your own mold. Using Casting sand, and aluminum? It may take some experimenting, but that may save time and money.

This video was super helpful for a beginner. I’ve been making electronic systems for a while and 3D printing is making my life so much easier! Quick question: what screen are you using for your clock? Im working on a little system which automatically tally’s up your points just by looking at the dart board, but cant find a good (and not super expensive) display to use.

I have anew Bambu Labs P1S and it will print an enclosure without any lines at all, unlike the 2 Ender series I had which are rubbish. I see the Creality "Team" have blatantly copied the Bambu system in their latest abomination. Let's see how long that lasts. Their after sales support is non existent.

Kind of a disappointing bait-and-switch you've pulled here as you start off talking about how long and tedious the process of creating a sleek, smooth surface is and teasing a solution for eliminating layer lines (i.e. the source of all the frustration that necessitates all the sanding and filling and sanding again) without all that work, only to turn around and reveal that your "solution" is to just obliterate the notion of smoothness altogether. Which is kind of like arguing that nobody will notice if your car's paint is scratched if you throw the whole thing into an industrial compactor and reduce it to a 3x3 cube of scrap metal. That said, one "pro" to this method is that it does build up a thicker layer of printed plastic so all the sanding necessary to smooth it out is less likely to result in turning layer lines into "shear lines" where the plastic is so thin and weak from all the sanding that it'll just split open under pressure. But that could be addressed merely by selecting a thicker "wall" option. I guess the search for "fresh off the bed smoothness" continues. Not like I'm pressed for time, though. I haven't even taken my LK5 out of the box yet and it's been like a year or two because I have no place to set it up.

Does the flow calibration work for you ? For me it just does it without end and keeps on flowing

You could do what I did for a customer of mine. They wanted a kit of ~100 parts printed for each student (120 total students). I ended up 3D printing a master kit of parts, I sanded, primed and painted the parts until they looked perfect. I then made a silicon mold of the parts and cast thousands of parts easily and quickly to fulfill the order in resin. The parts were perfect reproductions and I still maintain the molds here in my shop. The customer (a nearby university) orders hundreds of these kits each year.

Thanks for the how-to. Just what I was looking for.

I have a Bambu Lab A1 and when I'm printing it freezes right at 65% of the job and I have to stop the job and restart the whole process. Can you please help?

First, thanks for posting. This was very informative and I didn't know this setting even existed. I'm thinking of at least a dozen applications I'll be using it with. Second, I have to comment on your resin printing experience.. If your resin prints were too brittle or weak for your application, you were using the wrong resin. There are a plethora of tough resins out there that are far less brittle and I'm sure with research you would have found one that fit your need. The warping could have been solved with some slicer settings, additional supports, the right resin, or a combination of all of the above.

I wish we could "paint" on the areas we want fuzzy like we can with supports

all good but music is horrible

Nice, but how smooth is the finished product