My Secret To No More 3D Printed Layer Lines

[@jakemgrim]

I’m looking for 10 people who would like to share what they are working on! I want to learn about cool projects and startups. If that interests you and want to be interviewed on my channel, fill out the form on: jakegrim.com/chat

[@LimakPan]

90% of 3d printing discoveries are "We found a setting in the slicer we haven't clicked before"

[@Gnefitisis]

Because they aren't discoveries. "Engineers" are just too fucking stupid to read the manual. Hence, scientist > engineers.

[@TerraMp]

It's so charming how he presents the feature designed by the manufacturer as some kind of secret solution, as if he invented it. If he had bothered to watch a few videos on the subject, he wouldn't have had to go to all the trouble of "inventing" the fuzzy skin.

[@dauraktv]

@@TerraMpwhere can I find those?

[@rayhsetwo8594]

@@TerraMp That's disingenuously arrogant of you. The lad had to work through his problem by 'trial and error' and he clearly admits it took him a long time and hard work before he 'discovered' that a particular 'fuzzy' setting worked for him. Your sarcastic criticism is shameful. Where is your praise for the novel and useful invention he made?

[@andrewhoward6703]

​@@TerraMpbut "I would have never been able to create this incredible invention" really got me 😂. Bro took all the responsibilities for this printer setting.

[@maggieMakesMechs]

I for one appreciated the story. I understand some people just wanted the single phrase “use fuzzy skin” but if you are a maker, these are all relevant steps/ideas you would try. Probably saved a lot of people a lot of time. Definitely was helpful for me!

[@jakemgrim]

I'm glad to hear that you found the video helpful and appreciated the additional context provided in the story. Exploring different steps and ideas can indeed save time and offer valuable insights, especially for makers looking to optimize their 3D printing process. If you have any further questions or need more assistance, feel free to ask!

[@beefan1596]

I agree that the troubleshooting process was interesting and helpful, but I would have appreciated if he said the solution at the beginning, and if he expounded more upon the troubleshooting process regarding his resin printer and Blender.

[@d-emprahexpects]

Context is important, sometimes you might want a quick solution to get back to testing though. I appreciate the story too, I'm only a curious passer-by though

[@ohdippy7825]

Yeah man I appreciate you explaining your process I had a lot to learn from it

[@francistaylor1822]

lot of talking and 'my secret' is just a feature in the slicer. Wasted video

[@franzgriffle6063]

I enjoy your gentle nature and soft speaking. Way too many people who make videos are very loud and have harsh editing styles. It’s nice to see something a little different.

[@AuDiGo6]

There is also feature "variable layer height" which also has nice results, especially for more organic prints.

[@jakemgrim]

No way! I’ve never heard of variable layer height! I’ll have to look into it! Thank you for sharing :)

[@TGMisKillingTheMiddleClass]

can also save time! no need to print vertical walls at 0.12mm height, but can still get that detail in the curved parts

[@jakemgrim]

@@TGMisKillingTheMiddleClass I didn’t even think about that! That’s an excellent point! Thank you!

[@NoIPHU]

Shame that (at least in OrcaSlicer) you can't use variable layer height with tree supports.

[@Oliver_Things]

@@jakemgrim It is the weird stack of lines up along the top in the "prepare" stage. It is right the left of the "move object" button.

[@Oliver_Things]

I've been using fuzzy skin for a couple years now, and I think other slicers also have the setting too. as for tolerances, you can use modifier blocks to either enforce, or block fuzzy skin anywhere on your model. I use this for the phone mounts I designed and produce for my car. Fuzzy skin is an awesome feature, and even though I already knew about it, knew how to use it, and use it on a regular basis, I continued watching your video because of how well you made your video. It is structured very well, and easy to understand for even the most novice of printers, which I appreciate, and wanted to say GREAT JOB!

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you SO SO much! You put the biggest smile on my face :) I tried to make this video entertaining and informative for beginners. A bunch of expert level 3D printing people posted negative comments, but that’s okay thanks to people like you being kind and positive. If you haven’t already, you should consider joining our discord (link in the description) of other makers. I’ll be getting on there this afternoon to catch up on the conversation. Now I’m going to go for a run and exercise :) See ya around!!

[@matthiastilly5480]

Fuzzy skin is the one-for-all recipe to take away the 3d-printed look. We use it on all our products from the beginning - but: It comes at the cost of increased print-time! Always a good idea to apply it only to visible surfaces by using modifier blocks

[@jakemgrim]

Glad I’m not the only one doing it!

[@goilo888]

Is it possible to add the Fuzzy Skin to only part of a model? For example, let’s say one half of a sphere?

[@alexlad13]

@@goilo888yes, use modifiers. What slicer do you use?

[@goilo888]

@@alexlad13 The Bambu slicer.

[@Betruet]

I've been using fuzzy on my prints for the last few weeks and I do like the results. I make alot of items with TPU and the the flexibility and fuzzy makes a great combo really gives my prototypes a next level feel. Great video thanks for sharing your journey!

[@jakemgrim]

I haven't tried TPU and Fuzz yet but it sounds cool! What kind of stuff are you printing? If you want to share pictures of the prints, you can post them in our Discord linked in the description!

[@IlBiggo]

Same here, I tried fuzzy on the Ender-3 v2 a couple months ago for a TPU button and it came out great both in look and feel. So I experimented a bit on PLA. My parameters of choice are 0.1, 0.1. It just gives it a silky roughness, like finished wood.

[@MPulido729]

if you ever want to return to maintaining glossy parts without spray paint - another super quick option would be to thin down uv curable nail polish or craft fluid with rubbing alcohol then thinly coat the parts and cure them - you can play with the viscosity proportions of polish to alcohol. I do this with my artificial nails. Not necessarily practical for all situations but I am sure you will run into a customer request eventually in the future asking for metallic or mirror shine products

[@yobtar]

resin warping and brittleness is a direct correlation to the resin you are using.

[@jakemgrim]

Crap! Really? Which resins do you recommend I use?

[@yobtar]

@@jakemgrim If you plan to cast the materials they make casting resins. I would think you would want to go that route but Ive never used those. I have a Phrozen Mini 8ks and I use the Phrozen Aqua 8K 3D Printing Resin. And get no warping or anything once I have it dialed in.

[@turkmenbashi42]

There's abs like resins, tough resins, flexible resin, and you can mix them . Warping can also be solved by orientation and different support layouts.

[@leandroleite5130]

I don't know why, but I really liked you. The perseverance, patience and ingenuity. Hope more joy comes along your way.

[@TheRich4187]

Love the video. I think the best part of 3D printing is the design and problem solving! Seeing an idea sitting on my table or workbench always blows me away. I don't care if it's a small custom poker chip or a large set of inserts for my board games. The fact that after a few hours or days something that didn't exist before I started does now is so cool! And the ironing out kinks until it's just right is awesome! Love the shared knowledge. Goodluck in all you do!

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you so much! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Feel free to share pictures or videos of your projects in our discord linked in the description! It’s so cool to turn ideas into real life things! I hope to see you around with future videos!

[@del343434]

Man there's a lot of keyboard commandos in this comment section. As someone who just got my first printer (Bambu P1S) I really appreciate this video! Thank you sir!

[@rayhsetwo8594]

'keyboard commandos' is very lenient of you, I could think of some descriptors far more blunt for the envious trolls. I think the lad has done very well, has a good courteous manner and his invention is actually a very good idea.

[@TimothyStovall108]

.3mm on both is what I found what looked best to me as well when I was testing things too last week. I've got a K1 Max and Neptune 4+ over the last few months, and have really been enjoying designing and creating things for people. It is really cool what we can do with 3D printing now a days.

[@jakemgrim]

That’s cool we both came up with 0.3! I’d love to see the projects your working on if you want to post pictures in our discord (linked in the description)!

[@melonpip]

Why are there so many haters in these comments? People moan when its vague, yet they will moan when its thorough explanation. Nothing wrong with documenting your trials and errors and letting us know about them. Especially to a noob like me. I appreciate the effort 👌

[@sandiegosummer]

I personally hate the video, because it is misleading. The part about resin printer being brittle can be just because he didn't UV-light the part after print.

[@melonpip]

@@sandiegosummer bit dumb seeing as hes showing us his trials and errors and telling us why he made that decision. Of course its because the resin printer wasnt operated correctly. But he wasnt about to spend weeks trying to fix what a filament printer can do instantly with no issues

[@JJFX-]

​@@melonpipTo those experienced in printing, it's his attitude. He did the same for the absurd acetone sketch which isn't even remotely close to how ABS is supposed to be smoothed with it. There's no notable fire danger when vapor polishing properly and it's still a very useful option in many cases but he smugly dismisses it. This is a stretched out, misleading video about a setting that is years old and his 'product'. It'd be fine if he actually gave realistic examples of these done properly but instead it's an arrogant presentation about his brilliant money-saving solution. Beginners will think this is great, I've been there. I've also then been very frustrated later when realizing many 'tricks' and suggestions constantly repeated by the community had only wasted a ton of time.

[@PatrickHoodDaniel]

Very well made video and the fuzz looks great! For those that are looking to hide layer lines (from Title of the video) you may want to revisit the resin 3D printing. There are many resins out there that have varying degrees of strengths and some eliminate warping. Another idea would be to create a silicone mold from a sanded part if you wanted a non-fuzzy surface.

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you! I really want to give resin 3D printing another shot. Have you ever made a silicone mold? I’ve also been wanting to give it a try!

[@PatrickHoodDaniel]

@@jakemgrim I have not, but watch other KZbinrs that do. The CrafsMan SteadyCraftin is a great resource and he mentions others in the field.

[@johncaldwell9842]

@@jakemgrim There are many tutorials for silicone mold making on youtube.

[@Nothwarren]

Little precision about tolerences, where pieces connect you can actually simply tell the slicer to print this part without any fuzz, for a bezel for example or a ridge. so you don't have to change your tolerences :)

[@jakemgrim]

That's a great point! In many slicer software programs, including Cura and others, you can indeed customize where the fuzzy skin effect is applied on your model. By specifying areas where you want the surfaces to be smooth without fuzz, such as connection points or precise tolerances like bezels or ridges, you can maintain the necessary fit and finish without altering the overall dimensions of the model. This way, you can enjoy the benefits of fuzzy skin for most of the print while preserving critical tolerances where needed. Thanks for highlighting this useful feature!

[@Nothwarren]

@@jakemgrim you're welcome!

[@yagoa]

you can make only 20min extra by adding a modifier to remove the fuzzy skin on the inside, can I have one now that I saved you 1000 hours?

[@jakemgrim]

Wouldn’t that be the same as contour? Or would the modifier work differently?

[@ggbartosz]

​@@jakemgrim Using the modifier, it is possible to apply a fuzzy skin only on the outer contour of the part, while using the 'contour' option makes it fuzzy even on the inside.

[@jakemgrim]

@@ggbartosz I see! I haven’t used the modifier yet. That makes a lot of sense! Thank you!

[@yagoa]

modifier is an added shape that encompasses a different setting (right click)@@jakemgrim

[@Kawalzki]

The modifier feature is like using a support blocker. It allows you to create a "zone" with custom settings. In your case I would recommend creating an obj or stl that is the exact same OD as you clock but solid, and just reduce the x and y by .1-.5mm and Raise by .1-.5mm that way you can import it with your model and it's already dimensioned properly.

[@jasonvanhalle]

Thanks for sharing this information - as a play-around-with-printers guy who also happens to be an engineer who works in manufacturing full-time, one thing I'll say is: you went to the wrong shops to quote your injection molded parts. The Xometrys and ProtoLabs of the world are fast and easy, and if they're not cheap enough for you there's other options out there.

[@jakemgrim]

I’ll check those out! Thank you for the advice!

[@phreaktor]

ANy other names you can share? I received the same quote he did for a similar part from Fictiv.

[@cocoxcocoa]

I feel like people often times forget that you don't have to go to a massive injection molding company when you need to mass produce parts like this. There are countless ways to make your own molds for small scale productions so that all you have to do is make 1 "master" by 3D printing, and then sanding and priming it smooth, then using that master to make as many molds as you need.

[@peterfinlan8159]

"Fail your way to success". Mate I just want to thank you for this video and just your attitude in general. I started a 3D printing business for bespoke parts about 6 months ago and it's been a journey of constant failures. One step forward, 5 steps back, I often say to my wife. I'm a perfectionist so even the smallest wall defect wouldn't pass my quality bar, and so I'd re-print and re-print until I was happy. This cost time and money. Then I found fuzzy walls and your video! The way you described the process and your explanation was really helpful. Thanks for putting the time and effort in. Great video and new sub here. Cheers from Australia.

[@jedisct1]

Long story short: try to check the "enable fuzzy skin" box if you still haven't.played with it.

[@jakemgrim]

Did you not like my story?

[@citratune7830]

@@jakemgrimIt was nice, but some people want the info only.

[@JacobHepworth]

@@jakemgrim No, and it's not a secret

[@jakemgrim]

@@JacobHepworth what should I change to make it better?

[@JacobHepworth]

​​@@jakemgrimYou could maybe start by covering fresh topics. I was hesitant to watch but was hoping for info I had never seen. It felt like I was wasting my time rehashing something I see in my feed a lot lately. Fwiw, you're doing a great job on lighting, audio and all around production value.

[@Calendor]

Congrats for having the drive and pacience to go forward no mather the obtacles! For those who did not quite get it this video was made for people who mean bussiness, that are interested on the core of things, apriciate when someone openes their eyes and tells them they have been trying the wrong method to achieve their goal.

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you my friend! I tried to blend education, entertainment, and inspiration all into one video. I hope you stick around for future videos :)

[@lanceculnane]

Thanks! I love the scientific approach. I've played around with fuzzy skin before but it didn't look as good as yours so now I'm eager to try more combos of settings. I agree that it looks professional. It looks like it's purposely like that for grip or kinda futuristic in a way.

[@aqnuadziba1269]

Really cool that you didnt give up on it! You can printed this on resin printer, warping can be resolve with better supports and other orientation, britelness can be solved by using different resin (like abs from elegoo, tough AnyCubic or some mix) or settings (lesser curing time). But i dont think resin print wouldnt work for commercial product, cuz if its undercured it could be toxic, if overcured it would be too brittle, pref you need to paint then so no sunlight would desroy youre product. BTW love texture on fineshed clock!

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you so much for taking the time to provide feedback! I would like to try abs resin some time! I’m currently trying to print a statue of Walt Disney in resin to display in my lab. I hope you enjoyed the video and hope to see you again next week :) P.S. Let me know if you build anything awesome this week!

[@gpweaver]

@@jakemgrim What they said: warping/breaking off the supports is all about orientation. You don't want wide, flat areas parallel to the bed; it will stick HARD and tend to break off the supports--or, if you're using a magnetic print bed (which makes life so much easier), it can pull your bed enough to shift it off its magnet. You want the smallest cross section printing at time--so, I'd turn your clock body about 45 degrees, so no one side is parallel to the bed. Play with it a bit and you'll get a feel for the ideal angle.

[@jakemgrim]

@@gpweaver that makes sense now! I always wondered why resin prints were printed in strange angles. Now I know! I’ll give it a shot! Hope to see you around for future videos because I love feedback like yours :)

[@BrodieFairhall]

Cura and Prusa Slicer (which bambu studio is built on) also have fuzzy skin. I'm glad to see more people using it and im glad you made a video about it (and the product journey), it has been available for years and barely seems to be mentioned.

[@jakemgrim]

That’s what people been telling me that it’s been around for a while. I think it does need more attention because I never heard about it until recently. It’s a really helpful tool if you put it in the right scenario!

[@tonez78]

Thanks for the reply. Not going to change filaments any time soon. Bambu had a sale this weeked for 32% off and free shipping so I bought 4 more rolls of PLA. The printer is in my office inside my house so the med temp is probably 70 degrees and it is on a very stable surface. It is self-calibrating machine (P1S) and the temps are 219/220 c and 55/55c. Just a hobby for me and not a business so learning as I go and when I have time. Lots to learn! Good luck with your business. Again, thanks for your video, Tony

[@jakemgrim]

You're welcome, Tony! It sounds like you're enjoying your journey into 3D printing as a hobbyist, and it's great to hear that you took advantage of a good deal on filament. Learning as you go is part of the fun, and it sounds like you're off to a great start with your BambuLab P1S printer. If you ever have any questions or need advice along the way, feel free to reach out. Happy printing, and best of luck with your projects!

[@rod3134]

OUTSTANDING INFORMATION 🎉❤👏🏽

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you my friend!

[@rod3134]

@@jakemgrim Thank you 😊 🙏🏽... I'm learning more and more each day. Much appreciated ❣️

[@jakemgrim]

@@rod3134 I hope to see you around in the comments of future videos!

[@hughessay1372]

I'm glad the fuzzy skin solution works for you. I'm a consultant engineer who develops medical devices. I have several resin and FDM printers and use whatever process seems the most appropriate for a part. If you ever need smooth, very detailed surfaces try using Sunlu ABS-Like resin which is also relatively inexpensive. Until switching to this resin I had many printing failures due to warped parts. I believe the slight flexibility of the cured resin helps eliminate most of the stresses introduced during the printing process which leads to warped parts. I'm sure there are suitable resins from other manufacturers, but I had little success using the brittle standard resins.

[@satibel]

the worse offender imo is high speed resin, it is kinda marketed as general purpose, but it's far from it, it is very hard, which is great because it is dimensionally stable, but it also means it's glass-like and will shatter if dropped, it's fast curing, but if you're printing with the door and/or window open, it will get skin within 30s if you lift the cover on the printer. also you absolutely need to process it indoor or at night otherwise it dries while you're removing it from the bed.

[@tremor6160]

I love your calm, detailed and helpfullly informative presentation style! Subscribed!

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you! I really appreciate your positive feedback. I’ve been getting a lot of negative comments and yours made me smile :)

[@KailasDahl]

Good shit jake. For real. As a 3d printer who sands and uses a soldering iron to smooth out all my prints i always thought the fuzz setting (which is on cralitt print as well) would make my prints feel like a teddybear or something. Youre a lifesaveri liked and subscribed because of this video. Good stuff mate

[@smartmarketers2584]

Loved your story and presentation! Thanks for sharing .

[@jakemgrim]

I’m glad you enjoyed it! It was my pleasure! I hope you stick around for future videos :)

[@5FSF]

I recognize this is 8 months old but for parts that need mechanical actuation you can use a modifier shape in orca or bambu studio and disable fuzzy skin within that volume, you can also use it for aesthetic alterations, certain parts with more or less fuzz, etc.

[@harryjames2045]

Im new to 3d printing so this was very informative, despite not getting to the point its a lot more layman/noob friendly

[@jakemgrim]

I'm glad to hear that you found the video informative! Sometimes, diving into the details can be helpful for newcomers to understand the process better, even if it means the video is a bit longer. It's essential to provide context and explanations for those who are new to 3D printing, so they can grasp the concepts more easily. If you have any more questions or need further clarification on anything related to 3D printing, feel free to ask!

[@JoshuaBeltran-vg2sj]

This is awesome! I just got a 3D printer it’s flash forge ADV 3 Lite and trying to invent/ have fun with it. Got the most basic set up ever but it’s a start! Happy for you man! Great job earned a Sub.🎉

[@robertthompson3472]

Jake, thank you for taking the time to run these experiments and give others the opportunity to learn from your trial and error. It’s really amazing that you’re providing this value & we get to learn from your mistakes so we can all have better 3D prints 😊

[@luke_fabis]

Matte filament, especially if it has a subtle texture like Protopasta's fiber filled PLA, is great for hiding layer lines. It's not perfect, but it does have a huge visual impact. And if it's not quite enough, you can still use a fuzzy skin, and you can scale it back substantially to improve print speed and quality. A layer of matte varnish or clearcoat also helps.

[@phreaktor]

Like Minwax Urethane thick type? Will it bite directly on ABS with no issue? Can it be painted over?

[@luke_fabis]

@@phreaktor I wouldn't use anything with harsh solvents. It will attack more soluble plastics like ABS, but also it offgasses some nasty vapors. Something like Vallejo Ultra Matt is a better choice.

[@jakemgrim]

Using matte filament, especially with subtle textures like Protopasta's fiber-filled PLA, can be an effective way to conceal layer lines and improve the visual appearance of 3D prints. While it may not completely eliminate layer lines, it can have a significant impact on the overall finish. Additionally, combining matte filament with a fuzzy skin effect, albeit scaled back for improved print speed and quality, can further enhance the results. Applying a layer of matte varnish or clearcoat can provide an additional finishing touch, enhancing the overall appearance of the print.

[@luke_fabis]

@@jakemgrim I wouldn't combine matte varnish with matte filament, though. I mentioned it as an alternative, if matte filament is not available. It doesn't hurt anything; it's just redundant. Should've been a little less ambiguous.

[@barretonaldo]

Bruh… I’ve used this setting before as a simple test, but it never thought about using it to get rid of the layer lines… valuable insight you gave me, thank you!

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you, my friend! I hope this helps you :)

[@AM2PMReviews]

Would it slowly flake off with handling? cause more micros plastics😮

[@oriwan3786]

on the part of fuzzy skin and the tolerances. you can add a modifier cube or what it fit and just float it only on the outside areas were you want fuzzy skin. This way in your model only the outside is with a fuzzy skin and the inside is normal which now saves time and the tolerances will stay.

[@jakemgrim]

I wish I would have thought of that! Thank you so much! Hope to see you around friend!

[@pinkpanther8427]

@@jakemgrimmaybe do a followup video on that. Im new in FDM Printing - this would be a nice quick tutorial Video, since i dont know what he means :D

[@Oliver_Things]

Also, you can do the inverse and add a modifier object in the areas where you do NOT want fuzzy skin and save yourself that post processing as well.

[@jakemgrim]

@@Oliver_Things wow! That might be even easier! Thank you!! I hope you stick around for future videos because you have some great advice!

[@Oliver_Things]

@@jakemgrim lots of trial and error! Keep up the good work!

[@HarveyFoFi]

Wow, thank you. I am buying my first 3d printer ever (Bambu Lab X1C) in about 2 weeks. This will be a great help.

[@jakemgrim]

You're welcome! Congratulations on your upcoming purchase of the Bambu Lab X1C! It's an exciting journey to embark on, and I'm glad this information could be helpful to you. If you have any questions or need further assistance as you start your 3D printing journey, feel free to ask. Happy printing!

[@Uratz]

Have you tried making Silicone molds? Casting each piece would take less than 15 minutes using 2 part resin that you can pour and cure and you can dye the resin in any color. There are also minimal post processing.

[@stevepreskitt283]

Plus, just like with filament, there are lots of different kinds of resins with different mechanical and other properties. Do the fill/sand process once to get a high-quality master, make a few molds from it, and cast multiple parts at once. Or, have a local machine shop make a suitable mold frame, make an epoxy mold instead of silicone, and use that to do low-volume injection molding yourself. Or use the master to make sand molds and cast it out of Zamak or aluminum. There are all kinds of options that don't take three hours to produce a part.

[@jakemgrim]

I have not tried Silicone molds. I would really like to try it sometime. Are there any brands or tutorials you recommend?

[@jakemgrim]

Very good point. There are a lot of variables involved with the whole process. Are there any filaments you recommend I use?

[@thecathode]

Great video! It surely contributes not only to avoid extra costs and effort to obtain a final product but also avoid a lot of polution with sanded microplastics and other harmful chemicals!

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Indeed, by using techniques like fuzzy skin and resin printing, we can minimize the need for extensive post-processing methods like sanding, which can produce harmful microplastics and require additional chemicals. It's a win-win situation for both the environment and the final product's quality. If you have any more questions or need further clarification, feel free to ask!

[@nathanwilmot9114]

hey jake, just found your channel through this video and i love what you’re all about. the information was given in a really easily digestible anger and the production of the video was great! definitely gonna subscribe

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you so much! I just got done replying to a comment telling me everything I did wrong. Your comment made me smile :) Feel free to join our discord channel to share projects and ideas with other makers! I look forward to seeing you around new friend!

[@pattersonlax48]

What I don't understand is, you started with a Solid Doodle Printer and went to a Bambu A1. Did you have to buy the Bambu to start printing with Bambu software? And also, did you try the Bambu printer, to see if it reduces print lines? Personally, I do not like that texture. If I know I am getting a 3d printer part, I expect layer lines. Why not try Casting the 3D printer part and make your own mold. Using Casting sand, and aluminum? It may take some experimenting, but that may save time and money.

[@RyanMercer]

I din't realize how much texture could make layer lines disappear until I printed a crochet model.

[@tartantriumph]

This is an excellent video. I'm learning 3D printing for car parts, and wanted to create dash parts that fit in without that "3D Printed" look. You addressed the issue perfectly and concisely. There's clearly a lot of data and time gone into this process - the editing is first rate. Thank you for this video, for taking the time and care.

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm thrilled to hear that the video was helpful for your project. Creating dash parts without the typical "3D Printed" look can definitely elevate the overall aesthetic of your car interior. If you have any questions or need further assistance as you continue your 3D printing journey, feel free to reach out. Best of luck with your car parts project, and happy printing!

[@gardian1701]

Prusaslicer has had this for years also. 👌 I used it for car parcel shelf brackets in grey petg, look exactly the same as the car interior texture

[@jakemgrim]

What settings did you use? 0.3/0.3 ?

[@gardian1701]

@@jakemgrim I can't even remember tbh, 0.1protrude, with a 0.1 layer line I think 100% infill petg. It's the only time I've used it. The grey petg happened to be an exact match to the cars interior colour, to the eye at least.

[@jakemgrim]

@@gardian1701 good to know! I might have to try something similar with my car. Thank you for your feedback! Hope to see you around in future videos!

[@Smokinjoewhite]

I don't know about bambu slicer, but in both Prusa slicer and Cura you can select areas of your part and change modifiers such as fuzzy skin, perimeters, infill etc. This should be possible in bambu slicer too. That way you can just disable fuzzy skin for areas that need tight tolerance or won't be visible, saving time both printing and post processing.

[@daniel1the2luberjack]

Jake, use mesh cubes to interrupt the fuzzy skin features for parts that need the tolerancing, it's a little tedious, but 30 minutes of that saves you hours in post processing. Especially because fuzzy skin in randomized, and your average variance will vary per part.

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you Daniel! I never even considered that! That’s going to save a bunch of time! I hope you stick around for future videos to provide similar feedback to help me improve! You are awesome my friend :)

[@benjamindorko2182]

I loved this video!! Thank you for sharing! It helped me out a lot 😊

[@jakemgrim]

I'm glad to hear that you found the video helpful! If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask. Happy printing! 😊🖨️

[@trent529-d1q]

I'm just about to buy a 3d printer and have been thinking long and hard how it solve the layer line issue, since that's something that will bug me. Glad this video popped up and thanks for sharing!

[@jakemgrim]

There’s a lot of great printers out there! My favorite being Creality and Bambu Lab . It’s a fun adventure once you get started! Check out our Discord (liked in the video description) if you have any questions or want to share your projects once you get started! Hope to see you around!

[@johncaldwell9842]

Same here!

[@KylerJohnson-j4x]

Dude this is amazing, thank you for your help and keep making videos 😉

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you dude! Hopefully someday I can be as cool as you!

[@ggbartosz]

Use modifier with fuzzy skin turned off so you dont need to sand down the fuzzy skin from where you dont want it ( 9:04 ). You can also do what Yagoa said in other comment and make fuzzy skin as a modifier, eg. cube, and overlap that with the places where you want the fuzzy skin to appear.

[@jakemgrim]

That’s awesome! Thank you so much for sharing that! I’ll give it a try!

[@FrankP83]

how can be done??😮

[@jakemgrim]

@@FrankP83 hopefully I can figure it out!

[@FrankP83]

@jakemgrim waiting for your tutorial Jake!However this night I've experienced the fuzzy with your 0.3 0.3 setting and the result is pretty nice!Thanks!

[@jakemgrim]

@@FrankP83 awesome! I would love to see pictures of the part you made if you’d like to share them in our discord! I put the link in the video description

[@williamqualls8560]

Very nice. As an absolute amateur at 3D printing, this is very helpful thank you

[@Rob_65]

Fuzzy skin is a feature that Bambu Studio inherited from Prusa Slicer. Most likely they also got if from someone/somewhere else 😉 It's hard to discover who originally made this. But that does not matter to me. I never looked at this feature or knew how to use it so kudos to you for learning me somet hing new 👍

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you my friend! I want to try it with my Creality CR-10 next! That printer is a tank! BTW I like your profile pic ;) Hope to see you around!

[@mikawilliamson2863]

I've been using a formlabs resin printer and it is the bambulab of resin printers and it is literally click print and leave and you can track the print online. But obviously it comes at a cost

[@jakemgrim]

Using a Formlabs resin printer sounds like a convenient option, especially with its streamlined printing process and online print tracking feature. However, as you mentioned, the convenience typically comes with a higher cost compared to other resin printers or FDM printers like BambuLab. It's all about finding the right balance between convenience, quality, and cost that fits your needs and budget.

[@Finchyboi14470]

I personally don’t understand why people go through such lengths to hide the fact that a thing was 3D printed. As of writing this comment, 3D printing is still a novelty. It is reaching the point quickly where most people can just buy one, but it is still a new and cool concept. I feel that for many people, owning something that was 3D printed would be a cool novelty. Not only do you have an alarm clock, but you have something that someone created with a little machine in their house. I understand that in some applications it is good to hide the fact that something was printed, mostly with cosmetic parts like cosplay props or things you want to have look like they were professionally made, but for me it doesn’t make much sense to go about trying to hide the fact that a thing you’re selling out of your house is 3D printed.

[@jakemgrim]

That's a great point you've raised! 3D printing does indeed have a unique appeal, and for many people, owning something that was created using this technology can be a fascinating and novel experience. It's a testament to the innovation and creativity involved in the manufacturing process. While there are certainly situations where concealing the 3D printed nature of an object may be desirable, such as in certain aesthetic or professional contexts, embracing the technology and its distinctive characteristics can also be a selling point. Ultimately, it comes down to individual preferences and the specific requirements of each project. Thanks for sharing your perspective!

[@VigilanteSystems]

Sometimes you need also need smooth surface for technical reasons to 😅 like some part sliding in and out of another.. sure could be redesigned so layers won't matter anymore...

[@FilamentFriday]

Fuzzy skin has been around a long time. Cura had it first I believe. It’s great for grips on handles as well. I did a TPU grip for my walking stick that I still use several years later. The clock design looks great.

[@AndrewAHayes]

I have used Fuzzy Skin on some parts when I was using Cura, however, I haven't used it yet with Bambu Studio and my X1 Carbon, another alternative is using CF-PLA or wood filament to hide the layer lines, I have recently bought the Ideaformer holographic build-plates and the first layer hologram patterns are just awsome.

[@jakemgrim]

Good to know! I’ve been wanting to test different build plates! You should share pictures of your results in your Discord linked in the description :)

[@swdgeldenhuys]

THANK YOU for this tip... It is a real viable solution to a part not looking like a cheap 3D print

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you! I’m glad you liked it!

[@christianmontagx8461]

Don't hide the pictures of the result in the beginning. That's a bad habit like the theacher that hides text on an overhead projector because he don't want you to read further. Read presentation zen and you will know why.

[@jakemgrim]

Is that a book? Presentation Zen?

[@FollowTheCloud]

thanks for the video this really helped me out a lot. im printing everything with fuzz now. it looks so much better than layer lines

[@jakemgrim]

That's great to hear! Fuzzy skin can indeed provide a smoother and more aesthetically pleasing finish compared to traditional layer lines. It's an excellent technique for enhancing the appearance of your 3D prints. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!

[@antronk]

When you think the video is “hey, do you remember this feature from a few years ago?” but you get “come along to my journey of printing a box” :D

[@jakemgrim]

It’s like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re gonna get ;) hope you stick around for future videos, friend!

[@tomvanderhulst5664]

Omg THANK YOU I was searching like hell for a solution.

[@jakemgrim]

You're welcome! I'm glad I could help you find a solution. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!

[@HgArgen]

Summary: nothing new there, but your video is useful because the tests your made with the fuzzy skin.

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you for summarizing the key points of the video! While some of the concepts discussed may not be groundbreaking, the practical demonstrations and experiments with fuzzy skin slicing provide valuable insights and tips for optimizing 3D printing processes. I'm glad you found the video useful!

[@jamescryer2356]

I am getting an A1 when I get back from vacation since I just finished my printer cabinet modification to accommodate it. You mention that fuzzy skin disrupts the tolerances. My question is: can you set fuzzy skin to a negative value, so instead of protrusion it performs the inverse for the fuzz? I feel the answer is likely no, but if anyone has insight if negative values are usable, I would greatly appreciate it.

[@jakemgrim]

Fuzzy skin settings in slicers like Cura and PrusaSlicer are generally designed to add a textured surface by creating small, random variations that protrude from the surface of the print. These settings are typically controlled by parameters like fuzzy skin thickness and fuzzy skin point distance. As of now, these settings do not support negative values to create indents instead of protrusions. The primary goal of fuzzy skin is to improve grip or hide layer lines by adding a texture to the print surface. However, if you are looking to achieve a similar effect (creating indents rather than protrusions), there are a couple of alternative approaches you could consider: Modeling Software: You can create a custom texture with indents using modeling software like Blender or Fusion 360. These programs allow you to apply displacement maps or bump maps to your model, which can then be exported as an STL file for 3D printing. This method gives you full control over the texture and allows you to create any pattern you desire. Custom Textures: Some slicers allow for the application of custom textures to the surface of a model. This can be done by importing a height map or a texture map that defines the surface features you want. This way, you can create a pattern with negative space (indents) that is applied during the slicing process. Modify the G-code: If you are comfortable with G-code, you could theoretically modify the slicing G-code to create indents instead of protrusions. However, this is a complex and manual process and may not be practical for most users. While these methods may require additional steps compared to simply adjusting a setting in the slicer, they provide the flexibility to achieve the specific surface finish you are looking for. If you have access to advanced modeling software, I recommend exploring these options to create the desired indented texture on your 3D prints.

[@wannehaves]

I heard about it but never tried it, now I will. 😊 Thank you so much. 👏🏻

[@jakemgrim]

It’s pretty cool! I hope it goes well for you :) I’d love to see what you make so feel free to share your results in our discord (linked in the description)! I hope to see you around!

[@renatomartins2086]

​@@jakemgrim I'm waiting for my ender 3 s1 plus to arrive. Do you know if it has that option?

[@bikepacker9850]

It's funny seeing you go through the same process as I did, getting quotes for injection molding the resin printers etc etc.. good luck with your endeavours.

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you!

[@TimmyM]

This is actually really useful advice. I've glanced at the setting before but never really considered trying it as no one really suggested it and I figured it created actual fuzzy skin in the form of intentional stringing. Thanks! I'll definitely give this a go on our X1C soon.

[@jakemgrim]

Glad to hear this helps! If you want to share pictures or videos of your projects you can post them in our discord linked above! Hope to see you around!

[@f8keuser]

If resin prints are warping it means you are typically over exposing each layer, UV light heats up resin when it starts to cure so the longer you cure them for the more they warp, while parts can warp during the printing process however it boils down to the cure station, over curing the print can cause warping. Also resin is brittle because you are using the wrong resin, try to get UV Tough Resin and or ABS like resin for more durable parts, you can even get resin that is made for practical applications but the resin is more expensive.

[@jakemgrim]

Good to know! Thank you for sharing! I’ll give it a try!

[@f8keuser]

@@jakemgrim The resin I use is Anycubic UV Tough Resin and Jayo ABS Like resin. Also some more tips: If the print is sticking to the FEP sheet then you are likely over curing the layers. If the print falls off the supports it could mean the you either don't have enough or strong enough supports, the left speed of the print bed is too fast and or the temperature of the resin is too cold. Resin works best around 25 to 30 degrees C and it allows the resin to quickly flow under the print bed when the print bed is lifted. Because resin is thick when the print bed rises after a layer is cured it creates suction and this suction can cause prints to be ripped off the supports, the colder the resin the more thicker the resin and more suction is created, too hot resin can cause warping and defects in the print. It's annoying but once you get the sweet spot with brand/type of resin you shouldn't have to touch the settings again but you might have to once you try using a different resin or brand of resin... if using a new brand or type of resin after you have found your sweet spot always test the new resin/type of resin with a small print and that way you lower the risk of wasting a whole lot of resin. Most printers don't come with a built in heater so I use a portable mini heater that i have facing the resin printer and I use a laser thermometer to check the resin temp.

[@redkf]

5:10 bro discovered the fuzzy skin option on his slicer. There, 10 mins saved

[@guillaumevermeillesanchezm2427]

Thank you

[@magiknightman]

ty!

[@jakemgrim]

That's a concise way to sum it up! Sometimes the key points can be distilled down quite effectively.

[@jakemgrim]

Your welcome :)

[@jakemgrim]

Your welcome :)

[@NTSRFR4]

Have you ever tried bead blasting? There are also other materials that can be used other than glass beads to "sand" the surface of an object and smooth it out.

[@jakemgrim]

I have not tried it, but I can picture how it would work. Have you tried it? If so, does it work well?

[@NTSRFR4]

@@jakemgrimYes, I have done bead blasting and sand blasting. Bead blasting creates a smooth finish, but all that I have done it with is metal, like aluminum and steel. You should try it and let us know if it works. Some people use baking soda or ground walnut shells and I'm sure other materials.

[@NTSRFR4]

I don't think that I have ever tried it on plastic though, not yet anyway.

[@TheDopalgangr]

6:32 your welcome

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you!

[@AA-xm7rt]

​@@jakemgrimI loved the full video! :)

[@Dweenz69]

Awesome Video appreciate your time with the different fuzzy skin settings. I wanted to say that you can eliminate the fuzzy skin from areas that need to fit together with primitive object as a modifier for those areas.

[@jakemgrim]

Good to know! Thank you for taking the time provide feedback! Hope to see you around in future videos :)

[@justinamendt8566]

You don't have to ignite the acetone so that method is actually very useful and you're just down playing it like one of those cheesy 90s infomercials with the grayscale color

[@hardcodedsoftware4212]

You'd still be stuck with abs

[@brinder.dhanoa]

Everyday in FDM you learn something new. Than you for the video.

[@jakemgrim]

My pleasure!

[@kevinpezzi6777]

Free medical advice: always wear a P100 mask while sanding and spray painting (ideally with VOC protection with the latter).

[@jakemgrim]

You are SO right! My buddy has been telling me that for a while and I need to do it! Any particular one you recommend?

[@johncaldwell9842]

Also better ventilation.

[@kevinpezzi6777]

@@jakemgrim: I use 3M's 60923 filters.

[@OxKing]

You can use modifiers to make certain areas fuzzy but keep those interlocking areas clean.

[@jakemgrim]

Good to know! Thank you so much for your feedback!

[@findlaybuch]

Have you tried the salt-annealing method? Just submerge in fiinely powdered salt (which will hold it in place) and put it in the oven at the appropriate temperature for a few hours. Makes surface very smooth.

[@jakemgrim]

That sounds like a super super cool idea!!!! I’ve never heard of that but now I want to try it! Is there any issues with warping when you do that??

[@findlaybuch]

@@jakemgrim I haven't tried it but apparently it works pretty well if you pack the salt tightly. Salt is great because it is cheap, stable under temperature, and washes away. You can also choose how smooth you want the surface to be, by the fineness of the salt powder you use. It doesn't let me post a link here but if you search for "remelting 3d printed thermoplastics" you can see the original video that popularized the technique.

[@jakemgrim]

@@findlaybuch that’s such a unique idea but makes so much sense! I’m going to try it sometime! Thank you so much for sharing :)

[@helderlmf]

Bro, before you say that, I would imagine how was your solution becouse I tryed the same in my pieces and its realy works. Its nice becouse you corroborates with the facts. Thanks.

[@jakemgrim]

Thanks bro! I really appreciate your feedback! I hope you stick around for future video comments :D

[@bentonrp]

7:50 He finally stops yapping and just shows it. 😂

[@azalea_moon-kee]

Consider printing your cases at a 45 deg slant from vertical, using a custom CAD modeled support gantry with tiny sprues and turning off slicer created supports. First, you could get fuzzy skin on what would be the top of your housing. I use this method for custom electronics enclosures. Second, the diagonal orientation can a lot of strength to prints in a way that can't be gotten with injection molded parts, due to how molds have to be designed to release. Third, the fuzz skin turns out even better, as the layer line orientation is not laying on any of the the cardinal axes. Thanks for the fuzz combo testing. Do you have close up shots of each combo online somewhere, like Flickr? I suppose it is just easier and more useful to print a bunch of my own samples plates.

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you so much for all of this great feedback! I will put this information to use. I added the images of the tests to discord

[@DanielSchweinert]

Great video! Keep in mind you can "MIX" resins to get the desired effect. In example ABS like resin mixing with 15% flexible resin - no more brittle parts.

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you! Really? You can mix resin!?! That’s so cool!! So 85% ABS like resin and 15% flex resin? Have you tried this and did it work well? Now I’m excited about resin printing again!

[@gpweaver]

@@jakemgrim I do it all the time...rarely do I print with a straight resin; my resin vat is more like the ever-replenishing soup pot. SuperPP 1.4GPa is clear, flexible, and super tough--I use Sunlu grey/white/black and add about 15% SuperPP. Makes minis that can fall off the table onto a brick floor without breaking!

[@sligit]

​@@jakemgrimdo bear in mind that it depends on the resins. Some resins might not get on well together. But in general yes you can mix them. It just might take some trial and error.

[@sligit]

​@@jakemgrimalso on the warping issue, it can be improved quite a lot with heavy supports, optimising your print settings and the part's angle to the bed.

[@jakemgrim]

@@sligit does adjusting your part angle, help prevent it from getting stuck to the fep? Changing the angle to reduce the surface area per layer help?

[@paulswarthout9967]

Nobody succeeds on the first try. I remember from my days of trying to get a computer consulting company to succeed. "If you're not succeeding, you're not failing enough." People who embrace failure, will eventually succeed. Congratulations for having the perseverence to find success with your 3D print. Does Cura have any such 'fuzzy skin' setting? (I guess I should go look).

[@GoergeSkiller]

So. You didn't solve the problem.

[@jakemgrim]

I understand your frustration. It seems like the video didn't meet your expectations in terms of providing a solution to the problem at hand. If there's a specific issue or question you have, feel free to share, and I'll do my best to assist you further.

[@GoergeSkiller]

@@jakemgrim the reasoning is, that I'm looking into getting a 3d printer but the quality and speed are still improving. I'm waiting for 3d printing with little post processing, that has a finished look without layer lines. So right now 3d printing still looks like 3d printing.

[@steveng724]

I'm about to change your life. The true solution is matte PLA. Hides layer lines like a champ. Polyterra is the most trusted/consisted brand. Your welcome.

[@qbert4325]

@@jakemgrim why are you talking like an Ai

[@JustCookenAlt]

@@GoergeSkillerFDM printers ( the type of 3d printers most are used to ) will always have layer lines, as they printed in- layers! There are a lot of ways to reduce their visibility with settings, and there are ways of smoothing prints after the fact. If you want a truly smooth print right off the bed, look into a resin 3d printer. ❤

[@Braindeef]

i just realised this myself recently witha a carbonfibre textured part i was printing. long story short resin printer died so had to use my filament printer, and was very surprised witht the result. Reason i mention it is i know why you had issues applying textutre to the file, its as simple as not having a dense enough mesh. If you think of the mesh/faces as pixels, the more pixles you use the higher resolution the part. I dont know now you do it in blender though, as i use c4d

[@jakemgrim]

Oh my goodness! Your feedback makes perfect sense to me! And never even considered that! Now I want to try it again. Thank you so much! I hope to see you around the comments of future videos :)

[@Quetzalcoatl999]

5:05 is when he actually talks about it.

[@jakemgrim]

Thanks bro

[@jasonloh6792]

Hi man, resin 3D printing can do it but you need the right resin… for the right job. They even use it to make moulds for small scale batches of injection moulding.

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you for the info! What resin do you recommend I use?

[@davidharris5045]

TL, DR. I fell asleep 5 minutes in and never got to the punchline. Was there ever an ending? How is his neighbor doing today?

[@jakemgrim]

Haha your comment made me lol. Thank you for taking the time to share. I think she is doing okay.,

[@HarveyGuitarBoy]

Love the style! Inspiring me to have another crack at FDM printing facing parts!

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you! I hope it goes well for you!

[@yagoa]

that is an ancient slicer setting not anything to do with bambulab, they just forked PrusaSlicer

[@jakemgrim]

I know you can use it with other slicing programs other than bamboo lab, but I had no idea that it was ancient setting! I just found out about it last few months! How long has Fuzzy Skin been around?

[@sniperpronerfmods9811]

​@@jakemgrimsince the ender 3

[@jakemgrim]

@@sniperpronerfmods9811 does that mean you can do it in Cura?

[@sniperpronerfmods9811]

@@jakemgrim yup first one to come out with it, a few extra settings but extremely similar, I think it came out in 4.0 ish... And can use modifer blocks as well It was really useful when printers layers lines stacking was really inconsistent

[@jakemgrim]

@@sniperpronerfmods9811 I can’t believe it took me this long to come across fuzzy. Now I feel kind of silly

[@htpkey]

I really enjoyed this video! Very few channels show the whole journey of finding a solution to a problem. They just tell you the answer is X.

[@jakemgrim]

Thank you! A lot of people are telling me the opposite. I’m glad you enjoyed!

[@htpkey]

@@jakemgrim Many people online tend to be very impatient when it comes to the content they consume. They often want instant gratification, that's why it's common to see the statement "I watched a 10 minute video just to learn that you used the Fuzzy Skin tool, you should have said that in 1 minute". There are thousands of videos about the Fuzzy Skin tool in 3D slicers, there's nothing special about that. Most of them are using this tool for it's basic intended purpose (adding a rough texture to the print). It's rare to find people using this tool to solve a very common issue in 3d printing (hiding layer lines), like you did here. I love that you started with a specific problem that many people face in 3d printing, then through experimentation and discovery stumbled upon the Fuzzy Skin tool. After this, you also did your own experiments to find the best settings for this tool. That whole process was educational and fun to watch! The storytelling was the best part about the video.

[@jakemgrim]

@@htpkey thank you so much my friend! I really really appreciate your feedback. You made my day. Thank you for your support :)

[@TrittTaylor]

Yooo Ik this guy he keeps hanging around my school we don’t know how he go there tho

[@jakemgrim]

I’ve may have taught you a thing or two

[@ChaosEldritchPrince007]

You sir have earned my like and subscription to your channel, from one 3D Printing/Manufacturing enthusiast/inventory to the next. I hope I ever have the honour of meeting you and talking about creations. o7

[@gilcd85]

8 minutes to say "fuzz skin". smh

[@jakemgrim]

Best 8 minutes of your life :D

[@ReedGladifelther]

Man stop hating get something better to do you loser

[@danielsvamp]

biggest lie@@jakemgrim

[@MetalRhino42]

It was the first thing in the first 8 seconds?

[@ragetist]

Personally I like to hear what other options the person has tried and why they chose this method, it gives me much more information to base my opinions on. Great video.

[@rubendario3500]

Thanks a lot mate!! Sharing your trial and error process made a huge difference with my own learning process. Kudos and hope you keep doing amazing stuff!!!

[@schrikeiv]

Fuzzy skin has been available in Cura for several years now......this is not a new thing or singular to Bambu labs

[@jakemgrim]

That’s great! I’m going to try it on my Creality CR-10 next!

[@raphaelmorgan2307]

nice! that means this is accessible to me as well, can't wait to try it out

[@satibel]

for resin, try ABS-like resin, and also angle your part and lower the lift speed (I use 5mm/s instead of the default 20 on high speed resin). personally I'd recommend always painting resin, because it really doesn't like uv, and it's safer in case it's not 100% cured. if you have trouble with the print coming off of the support, use heavier support and add manual supports in the corners (also check that you don't have large planes, that will cause warping and/or failure). as for tolerance, add a modifier to the tolerance part. you can even model it and use the stl as a modifier, if you're using fusion make a component and add both bodies to it, then export it as 3mf, then import in your slic3r based slicer as a multi part object, select your modifier object, right click -> change type -> modifier, then right click -> add settings -> fuzzy skin -> check fuzzy skin, and then set it to none. another option is to do the opposite and make a modifier just for the outside and enable fuzzy skin for it. (with fuzzy skin disabled in settings.)

[@tomastrlida2250]

if you want the resin print to be strong as like PLA you need to put it into UV oven so it hardens properly