So what do you do if its an exposed side carcass in term of not having exposed screws?

Push block or push stick would be super helpful to keep your fingers intact. Thanks for the good video!

For that bottom panel, couldn't you just use pocket screws on the bottom side of the pannel instead of counter sinks from the side? I worry that I'd drill/screw crooked and leave a screw showing in the bottom pannel

How often do you use the rip capacity beyond 36”? I have the 36” and thinking about upgrading to the big eye rip fence and this would be the opportunity to go with 52” but would be a little tight in my shop.

Where do you source your plywood from? I live in Wilmington NC and there's no place local to get good, cabinet grade plywood. Everyone talks about "Baltic Birch" plywood but I can't get it locally. I'm ready to drive a few hours to pick up a load of it, but not sure where to go. Thanks!

I have a question not related to this video, but you were so kind and quick to respond to a comment on another video, I thought I would see if you have advice on this. I am reorganizing my shop and will build a miter saw station for the first time (I have previously kept it mounted on a mobile stand). I have a 24 foot wall on which I will first position my miter saw, then utilize space on each side for other purposes. I am paralyzed trying to decide the right spacing. Any thoughts?

You said in the beginning that this is not how you make doors in production. Do you have a video that shows your production methods? Not that I will buy the additional equipment needed, but I would like to see how it's done.

Im not one to critique or criticize anybody on here so please don’t take it personal. Your humor is ok to me but your music is awful, it’s loud and bad. So loud. Anyways I’m one that likes the sound of a woodshop, even if it’s silence whilst we watch you contemplate. Anything but that music. Just wood please. I’ll subscribe because I do think you’re funny and a very good woodworker 😍

If you worked in metric it would be a lot easier to follow however I can work in both so its easy. Great video.

Where are you? Still breathing? How’s the new shop coming? We haven’t heard from you in awhile.

Female here! I am an extreme novice when it comes to woodworking. Basically no tools, but I use what I have. Beautiful video and I appreciated not speeding it up. Everybody on Instagram fast forwards so much stuff that I can’t even think! I just made a drawer for my 1980s vanity with a cutout for pipes. I even installed it with side drawer slides. It took me two days and it’s not very pretty. Thanks for the video. I learned so much! I have no room for more tools. I have a mini circular saw, jigsaw, and drill.

Not "the groceries gotta go" lol

Great job. Thanks for showing how you set your saws. I noticed you did not use a push stick all the time. Please take the time to think about your fingers.

Did you thin the Zinsser BIN? With what? The last two cans i got didn't say what to thin them with. Also should mention the most recent can said it had synthetic shellac in it and did not sand as nice. Lots of gumming my sand paper, so I ended up wet sanding just to keep my paper clean.

5:14 😊 5:16

I would just like you to use a push stick

i watched twice trying to hear you say what thickness the plywood was that you used and didn't ever hear you say 1/2 or 3/4 wide i will find another channel for this reason

Great video! ❤

If the plywood isn’t exactly 3/4 and the face frames overhangs 1/4 on each side are you making the box width exact to a size that gives you 1/4 overhang?

better not be freeking pocke....... yup pocket screws. don't listen to this guy. if your cabinet doesn't fall apart in the first 6 months, or much much sooner if its an upper. please don't use pocket screw construction. it had its place, but not everywhere.

Quick question - you didn't mention it, but did you have to reset the table saw depth from 3/8" to something like 1/4" before creating the tongues on the rails?

Did you lose the video footage showing you comparing HVLP with airless also?

Solid job ! Keep up the great videos

Excellent video you just gained a subscriber, since it’s Woodpeckers specific probably no point in offering to lans, but do you sell the 1/4 / 1/2 bit holders you showed I’d buy them, great idea.

Why mdf for centers?

So when are you going to offer plans for the upper cabinets? I have already purchased your lower cabinet and corner cabinet plans, and ten bucks is ten bucks. But seriously, your channel and plans have been invaluable. My new kitchen featuring wood salvaged from a 100 year old barn is turning out AMAZING.

What do you do with the pocket holes on the inside of the carcass?

Thanks for the push block lol

Woaaao perfect, professional work 😍 love the quality of your work perfect done

Nice. What brand clamps are you using

Great job on this video. I built a bathroom vanity last year using some different techniques but this time around, I'm going with your approach for bathroom vanity #2. Thanks for taking the time with your explanations!

Watched all videos pertaining to cabinet build. Awesome job my friend. Love the workshop with the dust collection system. Steve

My man, you actually didn’t need to glue down those small blocks used as calls……couldn’t you have just set the “calls”/blocks a few inches lower and placed them directly on the rails you were gluing up? …..and if the thin strip of the stretcher/rail is too narrow to rest them on, then use those badass HARBFRT clamps to hold them in place (Ive got a TON of those $2 grey beasts all over my shop!! lol) No criticism intended here, I’m a TRASH woodworker, def not as accomplished as a pro like you, & I’m a big fan. Great video, all the best brother! 👊🏼

The Emerald paint instructions say to use a 0.013 tip size minimum. The Graco FFLP tip in your link is a 0.01 size and it still worked? And about how much pressure did you add with the pressure dial? I also have an X5.

Why not put the face frame on before painting? Also, why the pocket screws vs a brad nailer? These are genuine questions and not me trolling. I work in a cabinet shop and we generally apply the face frame with glue and brads before the finishing process.

How do you know where to place your frame between the drawer boxes?

Nice job. Nice shop.

Hate your music choice. Would rather just watch….

Well done mate.....

Great demo. Do you make your own draw fronts? Can i ask- any particular reason you put the handles on the panels of the draw front rather then on the top rails?

Do you have to thin the Bin at all before spraying?

Just that way i install my boxes, it works pretty well, and remember everyone does tha way works for them.

Hey brother thanks for making this, extremely helpful! Dumb question looks like you are using 1/2 inch wide for the rails is that right?

Great video!!!

Side mounts suck and are way more of a pain. Blum is the ONLY way to go.

I love how intuitive your videos are. You definitely give me the confidence I need to build my own kitchen cabinets. Keep up the great videos. I'm just curious why you put the pocket holes for the face frame inside the cabinet where they can be seen instead of between the cabinets on the outside?

Awesome job on this build. Did you ever finish the walk through of the house. I can’t find it anywhere. Also, would you happen to have the dimensions to the base unit.

1.6M VIEWS! I'd say thta cabinet paid for itself. Thank you for the help understanding where to provide structure and the process. Sure it's a basic level, but I'm very thankful.

I PROMISE you all that takes a lot longer than 30 minutes...uggggggggg

If you switch over to SW Gallery you can do it all with the HVLP. I'm trying it out now on a MM5 platinum.