That is true. Nomad sculpt has so many ways to do the same thing. This program is constantly evolving as well, so some of my older videos can be outdated for techniques.

You're so welcome! This technique can really help to keep edges sharp. Have fun sculpting!

Yes, that is correct. When sculpting faces or any really detailed object this can really be useful.

Happy to hear my video helped. Enjoy, Nomad is a lot of fun to use!

I believe mine is the 20". I found that you do not need to heat the entire vat perimeter. The vat band will warm the metal and as you start to print the plate mixes the resin around pretty uniformly. The UV light also warms the resin a small amount as well. Hope this helps.

@@Original-Werks Thanks! I ended up going with a brew belt for now. If that doesn't prove to be enough i'll buy a small vatband

They both work very well with Nomad to make creating quicker and faster base mesh models. I also have another very good app that works extremely well for hard surface and complex curve modeling. Stay tuned. And thank you for the thoughts about sponsorship, that would be great!

At the bottom of your app there will be an icon that says SOLO. If it is not there go to the top menu bar and click on the three sliders for the interface. It is the one in between the gear and Nomad icon in the corner. Then click on INTERFACE, and you can add SOLO to the shortcuts bar. Hope this answers your question.

It was another option I considered. I chose the vat band since it had an adjustable power regulator included.

Yes it is possible, though not like some other apps. I will make this video next, thank you for pointing out that I had not made this one yet. I have a photo "brush" that I use just for this purpose, I thought I had made a dedicated video about it already. I think that I have covered its use in a different video. Stay tuned, I will get this out quickly!

@@Original-Werks thank you for replying! I made my own work around by creating a thin plane and using my reference as a texture 😉 but I'm looking forward to see your way nevertheless.

Yes, in the tube tool menu. Click on RADIUS until you have two peach colored indicators for the top and bottom radius. Then click and drag the peach handles to taper the coil. The only issue is that the entire coil will taper in diameter the whole length. You can offset this by adding more dots if you click the RADIUS to get three indicators, then you can add more handles to adjust the taper and radius. Hope this answers your question.

Thank You!

Unfortunately no, Pose Tool only has a feature to load poses, not files from another program that could then be posed

ThankYou!

Yes, it is time.

Glad it was helpful! Have fun with your project.

Yes, I did try out the free version of that app. I did like the better controls and better range of body types. I will probably go for the master subscription later so that I can download more body types. But I figured most subscribers to my channel might not be into nearly a $200 fee per year to pose figures. They also had some scathing reviews of their policies once they went to a subscription model taking away models and props that people had already paid for. So I really did not want to recommend them after reading about that.

Thank you for the comments, I certainly will turn the music down going forward.

Thanks for the video!

Agreed, great video, but music was a bit distracting. Will definitely look into this, thanks!

Check out the below video on tips to export files for printing. You may find that the file is much too large to import into Cura. I show you how to simplify your project without losing much detail. Hope this helps. studio.kzbin.infopceSfk0dXSU/edit

So happy you enjoyed the video. Thank you so much for subscribing!

Thank you!

Same. I’m glad he’s back. 😊

Thank you, I had to take some time for other things for a while.

Thank you!

No problem, in time the mirror sheet will flatten out and you will not have to do that for long.

In this video I was using a matcap (material capture). It is great for displaying detail, but the color is lost switching back to a lit pbr (Physically Based Rendering) where you can use different paint and light colors. I will use this for the topic of my next video, this is a perfect subject for it. To get similar results as this you can use paint for the same effect. Go to the paintbrush icon and experiment with paint color, roughness, and a small amount of metalness. Tap the material ball and pick a dull plastic sphere, tap again until it says clone, scroll down you will see a cloned copy with a folder icon and plastic/ beside it. Pick that sphere (it will be there to use whenever you want a real clay/wax sphere color to use) and adjust the following. For more exact color type in #c82f19, Roughness 0.3966, Metalness 0.1196, this will get you in the neighborhood, adjust for your taste. I also went to the shading tab (sun icon) and over exposed about to 3.0 in the Venetian crossroads environment. This was a really long answer to your question, I hope it was not too confusing. Be on the lookout for my next video, I will have a few more tips as well!

You're welcome! Have Fun!

So happy you enjoyed it! Have fun with this one!

Welcome aboard! Thank you for the new Sub!

No, mine is made of aluminum and solid.

@@Original-Werks Mine is an alloy and hollow. I was thinking about filling the void, but the VATBAND worked great. I had it on level 3 and it kept the resin around 82. An unexpected benefit was easier cleanup. The warm resin just dips away.

if you give me a timestamp, I can see what I did not make clear and help you move forward.

You're so welcome!

I certainly will. If you have any hurtles you are trying to cross let me know. I am able to slip in custom videos on occasion.

Glad to hear it!

I know, it is frustrating. I hope that it is something that is added soon!

Hmm. will have to try that. Thank you!

Thank You!

Glad to hear! Thank You!

Glad it was helpful, have fun sculpting!

So happy to hear that this helped!

Same here 😮

When you are in masking, at the top you should have a new bar that has a face groups tab. Click on it and your face groups should appear for you. Also make sure that you have updated to 1.85 (I am sure you have if face groups is there for you). Let me know if this is what you are looking for.

@Original-Werks Yeah, when you click a face-group in mask mode (with the facegroup button selected in the bar) it should instantly mask whatever facegroup you click. You did it at 0:57. For me it doesn't mask anything and I have to manually draw the mask onto the face group. It looks like you have a one-tap mask mechanism or something. I can't seem to get that to work.

​@@backhandsmack1358 same here

@@drann0k same

Thank you! Will do!

It is, I thought it had been released already, my mistake. It should be soon, the testing has been going a while for this build and there are some other very exciting additions to come! Sorry for the premature release.

If you are talking about the grid in Procreate. When you open the drawing guide, at the top of the screen there is a rainbow colored bar. Drag the white dot to a contrasting color as needed. Not sure why I edited that out, my mistake. If you need help with something else let me know.

That is quite a jump. I hope the scale helps!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks a bunch!

This was all done on a 5th Generation iPad Pro. Mine is also maxed out at 2TB of memory, but that is not necessary, Nomad Sculpt uses less than 20 GB of memory. I am not sure which other ones can support files this heavy. My suggestion if you are trying to use a regular iPad, would be to sculpt parts and decimate and combine later into a single file. Hope this answers your question.

@@Original-Werks Thank you very much for the tip ;)

Any time!

Thank You! I have noticed that the question of proper decimation and file prep for detail has not been addressed very well. One of the best ways to compare and learn how far a decimated model should go, is to import a file that you like and have seen printed. What really sets sculpts apart is the size or exaggeration of small details to make them stand out. You may be surprised by how far files have been decimated and still look great printed. I certainly could have taken my decimation farther, but I like the detail, and try to keep it if possible. Remember, the slicers average out the triangles into smooth curves. The smaller the model, the smaller the triangles. Depending on the resolution of your printer, those decimation triangles are much, much smaller than the pixels on a resin printer. The same applies to FDM, the decimation triangles are much smaller than the nozzle that you are using. Have fun sculpting and I am very happy this helped you!

Thank You!