Yes. As you point out, comparison is tricky because many providers, including ours, have additional baseline charges added on. Like cell phone charges, you always end up paying more than you expect. In addition, our government provider punishes those who use more energy, ie progressive taxation. As lucrative government income from gasoline dries up, I expect rapidly escalating taxation on electricity to fill the void. Thank you for chiming in!

If I recall correctly there's an O ring on that screw. Turn water off, and unscrew it completely, being careful to not drop the O ring in the grass. If the O ring is missing you could disassemble a normally functioning valve screw to verify it should be in place and get the right size. You can buy inexpensive generic seal kits from Princess Auto, Harbor freight, or Amazon that will likely have one you need. I usually put a dab of silicone paste (not RTV or any paste that dries) onto the seal and threads to prevent leaks. Screw it back in and you should be good.

I believe it was made in 2003. We bought it from the previous owner with the house in 2012. I don't think any new fridge will last as long, ha ha. We can't get replacements for broken plastic trays so even though the guts work fine, getting plastic parts has been a struggle. Thanks for stopping by!

@@spelunkerd Have you ever considered having those plastic trays 3D-printed for you? Assuming you have some sort of design template to measure the dimensions from. Or maybe even design them from scratch to your own specifications.

1.62 amps, I wonder why in NY code specs a dedicated 20 amp circuit for refrigerators.

@@binnsh Excellent point, I was a little surprised, too. When you open the door that number will jump higher, from the addition of lights and maybe even the motor for the ice maker. When the ice maker turns on, I noticed power factor drops to about 0.45. As it spools up the compressor gets a momentary surge of current that can really spike, but within a few seconds it settles down. These devices don't sample as frequently as an oscilloscope so they may miss the startup current spike. The other component is the defrost resistance heating element, which will possibly use a few amps once in a while every few days.

Immediately under the radiator cap, you can see the tip when you remove the cap. Easy to get to after removal of the tank.

@@spelunkerd thanks, my bike was running fine and someone noticed my radiator fan wasnt turning on, so i got someome to fix it, all it needed was a new fan switch, well the next day my light came on saying the bike was over heating, its never said that before even with the fan not working. No all i can think to do is chsnge radiator fluid and check the thermostat

@@shanemichaelneal First thing to check is radiator fluid level. Remove the radiator cap with engine cold and be sure that your fluid level is all the way to the top. The technique is called 'burping', where you run the bike with radiator cap off, tip the bike side to side and evacuate all bubbles, run it until the thermostat opens. Then put cap back on and allow bike to cool. The overnight cooling draws more coolant in, to replace trapped air. Make sure the reservoir is full, and that there are no pinholes in the tube connecting reservoir to radiator. Check cap to be sure the seal is OK. I explain the procedure in detail in several videos I did in a playlist of automotive cooling system videos on my channel. Let's hope that it is simply trapped air causing your overheat.

The one regret I've been having about this video is I didn't add a clip explaining that very point. So, I'm so glad you brought it up for emphasis in the discussion! Effectively what we're doing here is bypassing only the switch, with the fuse and load still in series. Everything else in the line is designed to tolerate full power coming from the battery. So, it's OK to do here. Beginners have a way of extrapolating, so they need to think this through to understand when it would not be safe. I would never do this without seeing the wiring diagram. Thank you!

That is not the experience I had with this band adjustment at all. The procedure shown is identical to the official dealers repair manual guidelines for this exact vehicle. Of course, once you have found the correct position of the adjusting screw, hold it steady while the locking nut is finally turned down. They do emphasize that you want the locking nut completely loose when the adjustment screw is tightened, because as the adjustment screw is tightened the locking nut can also tighten up and interfere with correct final position. Perhaps your vehicle has a different protocol. When looking for advice, the dealers repair manual should always be the first resource.

Check to be sure the zone before the problem zone is shutting off completely. Also trace around the zone in question to be sure that there's no leak, bleeding pressure away so the normal heads aren't getting enough pressure to open. Leave the zone on for a few hours, then walk around the garden looking for a wet spot. If manual control works fine but the solenoid doesn't open the valve all the way, clean those small passages, be sure the screw to control flow is all the way open, and if all else fails try swapping solenoids to see if the problem moves to the new zone.

@@spelunkerd OK I’ll take the value apart again and clean the diaphragm and bonet. The valve is a Hunter PGV model

I used a seal made by Quad4X4, but it was expensive. The discussion thread has many bright options, including the option to make one with a 3D printer. I sent the dimensions to a guy who made a printer file for people to make their own.

Ok thank you very much!

If the smell of coolant is present in the cab, check the floor mats for wetness that might be found if the heater core were leaking.

That's an astute question. I bought the seals before doing the task, there was a thick round ring on each end, a thick straight bar you cut to size, and a third seal that looks like a thin circle with a horizontal line through it, seen at 12:27. On opening my heat exchanger, like yours the third seal was not present, it's the last seal listed in the parts list at 13:46. My heat exchanger was working OK, so I'll throw out a guess it is not necessary. Even so, I installed the third seal anyway to align with the parts diagram seen in the dealers repair manual. Presumably it was used to give a better seal of the end caps to the housing to prevent external seeping of coolant along the edge, and to reduce crossover flow from shortcutting the Z shaped pathway. My heat exchanger never leaked and I haven't done the task again since then. I hope that helps!

New ones are pretty quiet but you can usually hear or feel something. If the compressor is working the output tubing will be hot.

Ha ha, yeah. One day my local sailmaker was helping on a boat and 'plop' went that little screw after tumbling off his fingers. You can't buy those things at a hardware store but he found one at the rigging shop a week later. Until then, you're screwed. Better to be safe, in some way. I've seen people use an upside down umbrella to catch small parts below.

You might have a look at your pressure bladder to see if it is set at the correct pressure, usually a couple of psi below the cut on pressure for the well pump. If the capacity of your bladder is exceeded, the pump may not be able to keep up with high demand. I'd be interested in whether the problem recurs when you run zone 8 by itself without draining the system down from zones that run before it. The other thing that can happen is the zone before zone 8 might not be shutting off quickly enough to allow zone 8 to run by itself.

That's never happened in my old '98 Dodge but in about 2002 Chrysler moved to an ASD relay inside the TIPM, which was problematic because of corrosion. Through the next decade TIPM corrosion and various issues became notorious.

Its a 2001 ram auto/rwd the tipm has only relays in and on it no curcuit board