How to fix a driveshaft oil leak

[@d46512]

This is just about the easiest repair I've had to do on my Tahoe 4wd. Getting the old seal out is a chore if you're lying on your back but not too bad. The last minute of your video is worth its weight in gold. Always good to think before you pick up a wrench, like the old IBM motto.

[@Mikefngarage]

do the pump rub upgrade kit you will thank me later. expensive if you wait till it fails.

[@billbutler5300]

AkKOHkk

[@EmmAyeVee]

To install the seal, you can use an empty can and a rubber mallet. It fits perfectly over the seal. The type of can im referring to is one from used for canned vegetables.

[@billmessner8052]

Saw that video just before this 1

[@Crankshaft-nl5xu]

Great idea. I never thought of that. Thanks

[@tobedetermined4180]

Thank you for posting this video, it was very helpful to me. This is just me, but I would have replaced the Front and rear U joints and any other seal if I am going trough the trouble of getting the drive shaft down. Keep doing what you do, many in this community appreciate you.

[@zacharykarna2810]

Those u-joints may be sticking while driving down the road. I had a 1992 silverado that already had the seal replaced come to our shop. I ended up replacing it again. When I had the rear drive shaft out, one u-joint SEEMED fine, but actually wasn't. The other was completely shot. Replaced both u-joints with the seal replacement and she was good to go.

[@paulguerrero972]

Thanks for the info!!! I was under my Hummer H2 and saw oil at the seal. Looked it up and after this video I'll order the part and do the repair. Thanks again!!!

[@soundspoon]

Thanks for another great video. Still had a leak after I changed the seal. The issue ended up being the yoke. It had some light pitting which was failing to provide the correct mechanical seal

[@spelunkerd]

That's bad luck. Aside from buying a junkyard yoke or a new yoke, there is the option for a sleeve to move the point of contact. I have no experience with those options. Perhaps even an aftermarket seal would move the point of contact a little to an area less abraded. What did you eventually end up doing to fix the problem?

[@soundspoon]

@@spelunkerd I ended up buying a new slip yoke and replacing that. So far no problems. Just glad it wasn't something bigger than that

[@elcheapo5302]

Thanks Dave! I would have never thought to use a roll of tape as a seal installer but I will now!

[@spelunkerd]

Ha ha, whatever works.

[@bradstanley1493]

Thanks buddy I have a leak on my 1990 Blazer at that exact point and unfortunately it happened after I installed new u-joints .. Thanks for the info much appreciated 👍

[@bradstanley1493]

It’s very disappointing when you busted your butt putting in the u-joints and reassemble everything and just like that, it leaks 👎🏻 Oh well, I’d much rather own a vehicle that’s 30 years old than a newer one that makes you scratch your head as soon as you open the damn hood!!🤣

[@amg5348]

What is the noise at 4:36 - 4:39 as the drive shaft is being rotated? I have that same noise and wanted to know if it is normal or if there is a problem that needs to be fixed.

[@spelunkerd]

With engine not running and transfer case oil pump not spraying oil, I'll guess the rear bushing is a little dry. I don't hear any noise when engine is running and I'm still driving that vehicle every day (405,000 km so far). Cheers.

[@amg5348]

​@spelunkerd Thank you for confirming, I'm at 240k miles and no pump rub leaks as of yet but I'm trying to track down this same noise. Wasn't sure if was transfer case, transmission output shaft in neutral or a u-joint. Doesn't help me that the noise is louder near the transmission pan than the transfer case but will remove the fill plug to check the sound in the transfer case while rotating the drive shaft. I don't hear this sound with the engine running or driving around.

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

Nice work Dave. I don’t envy the rust you deal with.

[@spelunkerd]

Funny, when we lived in Alberta there was more snow but not a lot of salt. Here on the west coast we rarely see snow, but living near the ocean I think salt is in the air, ha ha.

[@jgjays6525]

Thanks Dave for ur time and expertise

[@patriotwarrior_556]

Did this fix your issue and if not what did it end up being. Please an update. I just replaced mine where the pump ate through the soft housing and then smoked my t case... A lot of people would benifit knowing the outcome of this... Thanks for the video

[@spelunkerd]

I'm sorry to tell you that this repair did indeed fix my driveshaft leak, and I drove this exact vehicle yesterday. Putting technical issues of correct seal and good technique aside, there are a couple of specific problems in this seal worth looking at. Many of these transfer cases have a brass bushing inside the seal which can be worn out to the point that more oil contacts the seal, causing it to continue leaking. And some joints at that spot have a small hole in the center that connects the joint with the inside of the case. If you don't plug off that hole you'll continue to get oil moving from case to joint. Finally, this 246D transfer case had a known defect that causes the pump to wear a pinhole in the case, which could be misdiagnosed as a bad driveshaft seal. Mine had a different pump clipset installed 15 years ago to reduce the chance of that happening.

[@leobardorocha3081]

Great video Sr...

[@ArtūrsLiepiņš-q9u]

I've changed all bearings and seals in my NP149, but it still leaking trought slip yoke and seal. also new oem rear bushing. Slip yoke doesn't has any wear signs. Why it's leaking? Can I remove damprerer from slip yoke?

[@spelunkerd]

This repair was done with the rear wheels on jack stands, but if yours is free standing, remember to chock wheels and set emergency brake! When the driveshaft is removed, expect the vehicle to dangerously lurch if you're underneath and not on jack stands. One thing I forgot to mention is that in some models there is a seal in the hollow stub shaft that can leak through the adjacent universal joint. So, have a look at the joint to be sure it isn't leaking there. If it is, a little RTV should work fine. If your oil level in the case is too high, seals can leak more than usual. Note that if the seal between the transfer case and the transmission were to fail, you could get transmission fluid leaking back into the transfer case, diluting transfer case fluid and causing the fluid level to rise.

[@dougie-thugie]

Hey I noticed leaking between my driveshaft and rear axle, car would vibrate and make rubbing noise when stopping. Is the seal for that pretty much the same?

[@spelunkerd]

No, the Pinion seal is much more complicated, and you should not get any noise from the seal itself. Setting the preload on the pinion bearing is easy to mess up, so I wouldn't tackle it unless you are brave and prepared to accept a mistake. You want to diagnose that rubbing sound, and it is much easier and safer to do that on a lift. While considering your options you could check the fluid levels in the transfer case, the differential, and the transmission. Rubbing coming from the rear is often from brakes, emergency brake, transfer case, or sometimes the diff itself. Good luck!

[@edgarmigueljaramillotorres6715]

If the noise is whinning like it might be the ujoint, easy fix .

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

Great fix Dave , ENJOYED !!

[@bertbaca7863]

Early detection and skill, nice job. Thank you for posting.

[@spelunkerd]

Thank you!

[@edgarestrada1146]

Thank you for the video I replaced mine and installed a new yet it continues to leak. I guess I have to take the whole case out :)......

[@graysonfamilykennel5211]

Would it cause a clunking noise when coming to a stop?

[@spelunkerd]

Sometimes brake pads shift a little on stopping, which can cause a clunking sound. Alternatively if it is a clunk on turning (and maybe stopping), the sway bar links or bushings or maybe even shock absorber links can be worn enough to give a clunking sound.

[@TheSteelBlinds]

Another excellent video! Keep em coming 👍

[@zx8401ztv]

I would be supprised if that needle bearing cap could escape. Hopefully you were able to polish the shaft so the seal will be ok. I liked the B F H comment, Big Flat Hammer :)

[@tinhtran1309]

Hi.please tell me my truck have a thumping noise when i drive 4 wheels?Thanks

[@spelunkerd]

If it is a rhythmic thump in time with rotation, increasing with vehicle speed, I'd be thinking a universal joint is going bad, somewhere. I did a video on diagnosis and replacement of a Dodge Ram front axle U-joint, demonstrating the sound and its cause. There are many universal joints in the drivetrain, both in the driveshaft, front driveshaft, and both front universal joints. If it only happens in 4WD, have a close look at the front drivetrain and the front drive propshaft. Axle universal joint failure may be exposed in 4WD because of the way the front axle locks up. Make sure your fluid levels are up in the transfer case and that the case is not leaking. I wouldn't leave it too long. When some of these fail the result can be catastrophic.

[@Mikefngarage]

auto trac 2 fluid in that sucker. Pump rub happens all the time. I just informed my buddy who had it happen on the road. I did my pump rub upgrade already on my GM...4x4

[@spelunkerd]

Yup. This one had the new redesigned clips put in 9 years ago, and it was not low on fluid. No leakage since the seal was replaced, so pump rub is not an issue here. Even so, good for you to emphasize that point. It may save somebody else's diff before it grenades, as I mention at the end.

[@stuzman52]

Great work Dave!

[@bigman4175]

Did your car have to be completely off the ground to spring the axle? Also did you completely disconnect the shaft or just the one end?

[@spelunkerd]

In this vehicle, all four wheels were on the ground. Fortunately the truck has enough clearance to do this easily, although it wouldn't be difficult to use jack stands. Most axles are designed so that you unbolt one end, and when that end is loose you can pull the other end out a slip yoke without having to unbolt anything at the opposite end. The reason for the slip yoke is the way the springs and shocks need to be able to move, so the shaft length changes when the truck goes over a bump. The slip yoke has splines that fit together, allowing total shaft length to easily change. This allows integration of the sprung components and the unsprung components of the chassis with ease.

[@bigman4175]

@@spelunkerd okay thanks, I really appreciate it. You marked the axle so you could put it back in the way it was?

[@spelunkerd]

@@bigman4175 Yeah, it's a standard thing to do, even though it probably makes no difference. People who worked for auto manufacturers are quick to point out that shafts and mating stub shafts are not a matched set, they are both balanced independently. So, it shouldn't matter. However if a dent was put into the shaft from a rock, and the driver didn't notice anything, it's possible it might be a problem if you clock it differently when the shaft and stub shaft come together. So, to avoid causing a new problem, I tend to put things back the way I found them. Can't hurt. Same goes for replacing spider gears and end gears of a differential. Leave it alone if you can.

[@mikegray1655]

i have a 2 wheel drive 2005 suburban do i need to check for the bearing issue

[@spelunkerd]

If you're referring to the pump rub complication of the 246D transfer case, no that's only with 4WD vehicles. You can get wear on the output bushing of the transmission, but you might save some money by just doing the seal and waiting to see if it works rather than spending the extra dough to remove the output housing. In my case the new seal is working fine without swapping the bushing.

[@donaldhardman4317]

How much is the gasket

[@spelunkerd]

As I recall, about $25 Canadian dollars at NAPA. OEM seals will be more. Rock Auto is a good resource to show the spread of prices.

[@kwanelephetha9772]

How long does it take to fix it?

[@spelunkerd]

On this vehicle a pro would take about 20 minutes, but there is a minimum charge for labor at most shops. If you're overdue for fluid changes in the diff or transfer case it will take longer. We're all one broken or cross threaded bolt away from major disaster, so especially in the rust belt you have to account for complications.

[@CADILLACZAY27]

is that considered front or rear seal?

[@spelunkerd]

On the transfer case, the one I replaced is the rear output seal. The front output shaft goes to the front wheels, and the input shaft comes from the transmission. Each have their own seals, and in fact the transmission has its own rear output seal.

[@el_chalino509]

Hello I have a 2006 Ford 150. The drive shaft looks like it's leaking a little bit everytime I move my truck ? Does anyone know why it's dripping small amounts of oil the truck moves ? Also my back pumpkin look like it's stained with oil from there what do you think is causing this please and thanks ?

[@spelunkerd]

There are seals and gaskets at every connection. Fixing them is usually not urgent as long as you keep fluid levels topped up and check the level regularly. If you don't know how to measure rear diff fluid level, it is probably wise to get that checked out at your next oil change. Most seal replacements are inexpensive, and you improve the resale value of your truck by fixing it. Fixing a pinion seal can be tricky, so if you're a beginner I wouldn't try that without extensive research.

[@philfredericks5198]

How much oil is inside the driveshaft

[@spelunkerd]

The transfer case oil is generally filled to the bottom of the fill plug in most vehicles, which in this vehicle is about the same level as the bottom of the driveshaft yoke. So, normally you don't lose much fluid if you don't drain before, especially if you raise the rear wheels to get underneath. There is never oil in the driveshaft itself, but in some vehicles there is a passage inside the center of the yoke that can spill back to the universal joint, especially if the case is overfilled. If that happens, when wet oil hits a spinning joint, you can get a confusing spray of oil everywhere. All structures in a vehicle have some kind of vent to allow equalization of air pressures, so if you've got leaking seals it is wise to check those vent tubes to be sure they aren't kinked or plugged.

[@servandomesa1989]

I used a 2" pvc coupling to tap into the seal

[@bravobullz7475]

Standard soup can works great as opposed to tape roll Whatever works seem it in a video

[@MrRoy-rb1je]

Exceptional! Thank you!

[@spelunkerd]

What a kind remark, thank you.

[@as7736]

Awesome thanks

[@MrBNARick]

I don't quite get it... you have the drive shaft dropped...why not go ahead and replace the U-joint anyway and save the trouble of having to drop it again?

[@spelunkerd]

That's a good question. I guess it comes from experience of stupid misadventures, coupled with the old philosophy of not fixing something that isn't broken. Replacing the driveshaft U joint is easy enough, although the quality of anything that would replace it will never live up to the OEM original part. I chose not to, 2 years ago, and the truck is fine today. Surviving two years for anything of this vintage is not guaranteed, and one day all of my effort will follow it to the crusher. It doesn't take more than 10 minutes to drop the driveshaft, so fixing it now doesn't save a lot of time, though if a tow were required I'd regret the decision not to fix it sooner.

[@halflife103]

id imagine this should probably be pretty similar to an f150 right?

[@spelunkerd]

There are a few variants but most are pretty simple. Crawl under and have a look.

[@Texas28Redrum]

Wait, that seal is inside out. The seal going inside right.

[@spelunkerd]

If you look closely at the inside of this seal, shown after 2:43, the spring was on the inside, both on the old factory seal and on the new one. That spring holds the lip of the seal down, so inside pressure tends to close the flap down onto the shaft, like a door being swept closed by a puff of wind. The sagittal cross section of this seal has a dramatic male profile, so if it were put in backwards it would never fit into place. Furthermore the water drain is designed to leak onto the ground, not back into the transmission which it would if put in backwards. Some seals can be confusing, especially those with double profiles and double springs. This one is in place correctly.

[@Texas28Redrum]

@@spelunkerd my fault I missed that apology for that excellent video, though I just had to split my transmission. I'm replacing that rear extension completely.

[@dalemihocik4732]

I know this is after the fact and doesn't apply to spelunkerd but that u joint is past it's service life and should have been replaced. It's not a costly part and the drive shaft is out making it a no brainer as to go ahead and replace it for safety's sake. Dropping a driveshaft as you head down the road isn't a pleasant experience at all.

[@tylersanders8853]

Im trying to get my old seal off and cant get it. Iits like someone glued it in place. You got it out on like 4 whacks 😂 ran out of light. Will try again tomorrow smh

[@spelunkerd]

Some guys use RTV to seal it in. A slide hammer might make the task easier, there should be enough room to get it into place.

[@darryldoesit966]

THANKS !!!

[@commonsense9071]

does bfh mean big fuckin hammer?

[@DJDevon3]

Sheesh that would be a serious condition if it was owned by someone not mechanically inclined.

[@spelunkerd]

So nice to hear from you, Devon. You may be surprised to hear I woke up thinking about your channel last week. We need to get you going with another turbo project car, ha ha. What's up?

[@tjl8884]

I have an 07 wrangler which had the dana 35 rear axle. The thing failed and apparently they couldn't find replacement parts to fix it so they put a used dana 44 rear end in with 100k on it. The guy said they rebuilt the guts etc and the whole repair cost me 4200 bucks CDN. Right away I noticed the axle was leaking so I brought it back and the guy tells me they tightened up the diff pot cover and it wasn't leaking. It was cold as fk outside so I didn't get under it to take a good look until today, this all happened in december.. Today I just noticed it's actually leaking on the spindle side that connects to the drive shaft.. These mother fuckers won't fix it either.. I was only poking around under it because the thing put off a code for the EGR valve so I was sizing up how to do it and just happened to notice the rear axle still leaking.. It was noticeable before right away because the fluid on the garage floor.. After they said they fixed it, the puddle never came back so I figured they actually fixed it. I can't believe its just pissing out that spindle seal.. Like 4 grand wasn't a big enough hit now I gotta find someone to fix this damn thing again.. and the EGR looks like a nightmare..

[@mrmaxstorey]

cool

[@spelunkerd]

Hey, Max, nice to hear from you. What's up?

[@mrmaxstorey]

@@spelunkerd Not much, just moved to Belize to open a boat shop. You?

[@spelunkerd]

@@mrmaxstorey We're livin' the dream in paradise, but with a mask these days. I hope you do more boat videos once the shop gets moving, you have a talent for practical explanation.

[@zerostalkertolerance]

Nice accent 😊

[@jgjays6525]

Thanks Dave for ur time and expertise