If you have not broken the bolt or stripped the hex head, you can remove the wheel and then apply heat with a propane torch to the hub adjacent to where the bolt threads are. It is probably a bit of corrosion in there as there should be no thread locker. Or If you had the wheel off and were struggling to hold the hub whilst trying to undo the bolt then put the wheel back on and lower the wheel back down to hold the hub as you apply force.

@@HavaCrack legend I hit it with the torch and wd40 cooled it and she came out cheers for the reply and have a good one 🍻

Glad the info helped out

It must be locked both sides, does not matter if it is a manual or autoloader. The hub lock only locks the hub to the axle half shift, it does not lock the diff or full axle. Hope that makes sense and helps, Mick

Give me a week or so and I will add a short video and msg you. Mick

Thanks for the reply, I am glad it helped someone else, you just have to suffer my monotone! I did loose one small bit of video of the process in p3, but by the time anyone got to that they were on the home stretch. Not sure if you have had a chance to see how the gears work on a track but for my manual it was great. Regards, Mick

I checked with my brother who has a 2002, the answer is basically no. He has an autel and it runs slow. He mentioned that it reads pin 7, which on a 16 pin dlc is Kline, thus I think it might be kwp protocol which would just give you generic obd2 readings they use for pollution testing. If it is pin7 then you can test it by jumping pin 7 of a 16pin dlc to any pin 7 on a scanner and jump the pin 4 (chassis earth) as well. When you start a scanner just go to a generic obd2 setting not vehicle specific I.e. Nissan. You can check modes 1-9 to see what info it has. This is how I connect my honda motorbike to a obd2 scanner. But sorry I am not sure if yours is the 14 pin dlc. Anyway, you would be better to have to hunt the forums for Consult. In short if you only want it for the patrol don't bother for non obd2 models, but apart from that it is a good device for the later y61, excellent for the y62, we have a Mazda 3 and it is great. Hope that helps. Mick

Probably not. At a guess I think the metal is sintered metal (powdered metal), which if it is won't weld too good. If you do not want to carry your wheel brace and you are thinking of a smaller tool then just buy a cheap socket that fits and weld a bar or similar to that. I have a gu so I permanently keep my wheelbase in the door pocket. Mick

@@HavaCrack I’ve found a 2nd hand manual set. So will keep the autos as spares

Good to hear. Regards Mick

1/. Did you have any issue before you pulled your swivel hubs apart? 2/. When you put the locking hub back onto the hub did you have to apply any inward pressure to join the two parts? If so, then the cut out sections the locking pins that I described in the video were not properly aligned. There should be no force required when putting the locking hub back in place. 3/. If you did not have the issue before you started your work and there the locking sections were properly aligned as in point 2, then have you put too much grease on the outside of the output shaft/axle or within the locking hub as this can force the locking hub to start to engage. The clicking noise you hear are the splines inside of the locking hub just starting to grab eachother and they are ratcheting around. The usual thing to cause this are the points above. Mick

@@HavaCrack cheers mare. I didnt have the issue before rebuilding the swivel hubs. I made sure i aligned the hubs like you shown in the video. I did put a lot of grease in the hub but i assumed the locking ring would seat it all correctly regardless. Ive currently converted the hubs to manual to get around the issue but its a bit annoying that I cant work out why they are clicking now. I spun the drive shaft by hand and it seems to be locking unlocking each wheel constantly it cant seem to lock both of them and I think thats the sound of the clicking. Might just be one of those never figure it out issues. I did appreciate your video a lot and I did learn a lot so thank you regardless.

@@aleks0001 Try removing some grease. There is no real need for a lot of grease on the end of the axle shaft / splines and at the end of where you screw on the locking washers (the ones that hold the bearings in the hub). Further within the locking hub there should only be a small amount of molydemum disulfide grease. If you pulled the actual locking hub apart did you make sure that it is seated properly and not partially on the ramps (about 6.22 in the video)?

@@HavaCrack I meant the grease is inside. Theres very little grease on the outside or the splines. Ive had the hubs apart 20 times now hahaha ive double tripple checked everything. A guy one one of the forums said that the flat tabs that hold the gear on the spring part should be facing a bit up and not flat on the gear. But in your video they look flat to me so I assumed he made a mistake.

Sounds like a lot of issues and your relay being feed from the alternator sounds strange. If you do not have a factory electrical diagram have you tried to isolate which part of the circuit(s) are causing your issues. Can you unplug the relays one by one or the fuse that feeds them and then try to find the circuit that maybe causing the issue? Mick

@@HavaCrack I did found the cause for the blinker it was corrosion on the rear bulb holder wire going to ground hade green staff on it and me ignetion switch hade thiner black wire going to fuse box started to burn simply removed corrosion and cutt that wire added speed conector and blinker stoped acting like buzz coil. How ever the self aceleration engine stops if I dont use head lights or if I unplug blow by hose with betalic air filter it looks nearly like the trothel cabel gets contrapted to the metalic air filter. So I did notice the 4pin relay draw current over night empty the baterry so I did removed that relay basicaly I removed all me relays and still some functions work with out them only left the blinker relay . That self aceleration disapeared for a while now it apeared again. Me wire harnest is stock standed Opel or GM wire harnest. Im confused as well honestly. Dono where that staff is comming from . I made wire diagram for me car to easyr locate problems. I noticed only didnt even know that xenon bulbs need resistor me car worked for years with out it tought. Only odd things that I culd finde after me resurche was mouse aperantly eat me door switch ground wire and I found beaten up hande brake wire but those are all ground wires ,interior over head bulb I removed years ago draw current on me. I dono what to say I think the integrated diodes got fried on me bosch 4 pin relay and I did notice even tought odd I have 2 different types of horns normali I did split up wire on my radiator fan so Im manuali engagin the fan motor wia switch. As described before odd behaviore lot wires share common positive and negative conections thats the problem I ques. I will try out to use only wires as ground to me baterry in hoppe to reduce wear corrosion on me chassys . I made a mess over filled me baterry with acid evry where corrosion from that mistake so Im preaty much anoyed at me car. Thats why I will make ich circuet seperatly to locate that problem. Evry thing I removed from car today started the engine manuali only left big wire alternator-starter motor-pin for starter selenoid ,extended alternator fields wire and simply tap it on baterry when necesary and I did wire up 4pin relay from defroster and used it on me 4pin Hei E Core ignition coil well engine works normali. So Im not shure if positive linear voltage regulator can back charge or not wuld like to know if there is posibility to put diode at that thing as well I unpluged all me dashboard and will only leave milage counter and gages for temperature and fuel gage with thick wires reinforce them . Other then that I didnt notice any thing suspiciuse just messy wire harnest honestly who doesnt make sence . Mainly the blinker circuet and head light circuets are mostly confuseing way wound so I decidet to use dual filament bulbs insted me blinker bulb holder fits nearly perfectly with out the rear bulb holder in those holes I might as well give ich circuet seperate ground wire so I hoppe the problem goes away . If not then Im stuffed basicaly only other thing left is the alternator it self or the starter motor it self to modifi them to cloosed loop systems . I actualy did build for experimental porpuse starter motor with dual insulated brushes only thing to do is seperate starter selenoid from ground for the alternator hes alredy insulated just field circuet needs cloosed loop regulated circuet . I dono I experiment lot with engines but culd never undestand why that does that strange aceleration problem . Im confused like hell .

Hope it helps that why i do the videos. Regards, Mick

If it is the racheting noise just take it off and see if it has been properly fitted, the autohubs are good.

I cannot see why it would not be, it is not altering the structure or strength or integrity of the chassis. As per the video it is only cutting off a cap off the mount and then rewelding it back together with a few mms sliced out. It does not alter the body mount as far as how that is attached to the chassis and does not alter the mounting position of the cab to chassis. If anything made it (or would) make it unroadworthy would be if your tyres exceeded allowable sizes. It may not look like it in the video but once all welded back together you would not know if it was altered. Mick

I am not an expert but a 4001 diode will be sufficient for most applications. If your circuit is not going back into a vehicles computer then there is no real need for the protection e.g. old cars had relays but no diodes. The purpose is to prevent a voltagw spike going into another circuit that does not have protection. A 4001 will be sufficient for a 12v system if that helps. Mick

Thanks for the comment. Yes you have to wire a relay with a diode correctly. If you have a relay with a resistor then you can get that wired backwards. Not all ecus have proection, or more to the point they will for the oem circuit if required and/or the oem relay if needed to be replaced should be with another oem relay. The point of the video is that if you wire an aftermarket relay into a modern vehicle then use a relay with either a diode (wired correctly) or a resistor if you want to add some protection to the circuit/ecm etc. Regards, Mick

Ok I am glad if it helped out. Mick

Sorry for the crd omission, I presume you mean that the di models do not have obd2, is that what you meant? I suppose i could have used my picoscope to demonstrate the same issue but not everyone has one of those either. I take the feedback and i am sorry if i wasted your time watching. Next time I will name my video 'I broke my 4wd' and have an image of my hands on my cheeks like i am in shock, or an image of a girl in a bikini as a bit of clickbait! I am sorry for wasting your time. BTW it would not matter if it is a cheap obd reader or a snapon it would have shown the same outcome, the message really is just because a sensor throws a fault code you do not immeadiately replace the item it is about finding the fault which in this case was a wire that visually looked in tact but internally it was fatigued/broken. With your di i recommend buying a picoscope, and a test light to assist in fault finding as that will identify most issues on powers, grounds and signals. Mick

Nathan, I had this vehicle up to 2012, used the 4wd a lot and the lokka was great. Never a problem. I sold the 4wd to a mate who still has it and uses it a lot and again no problem. Great and cheap mod for a gq. I bought a gu6 and due to abs and traction control i put in a harrop elocker in the front of that. The lokka with a rear gq lsd setup is a great combo. Mick

My model GU6 did not have the backladh eliminator in the transfer case, I believe it was in the earlier models, so I did not have to fit it. Give me a day and I will look up my GQ manual to see if it refers to it. Mick

Richard, I have posted a video from the gq Y60 manual re the backlash eliminator (sub gear). As per the original video you only fit it if your transfer case had one, not all did. You can watch a short video of the service manual here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqTLqparlrF_bKs

Do not worry i am a bonehead too. Hope it helps with some of the mystery of the autohub. Mick

No gasket or sealant to the mating surfaces and no thread locker. Toyotas had a gasket but i have never seen one on a nissan (gq or later). There should be nothing that leaks as the surfaces mate well and it is grease inside. If your axle oil seals leaked then you would notice an oil leak. But "NO" to your questions. Mick

Maybe 30kgs-35kgs.. Once out of the vehicle it can easuly be lifted by one person. To get it out you just need a trolley jack, I drove my 4wd onto ramps under the front wheels which gave enough height. To remove/install you need 2 people, one to lift/lower etc and one to manouvre but it is easier than removing the whole transmission. Mick

If you look at the video at 10 seconds you will see that it was just after the radius of the body mount. About 25mm at the most. This was to fit 33 inch tyres. Mick

Did you put the checkball back in? Or check to make sure it did not fall out (or the right way around). The checkball will lock in the selector. You should be able to still get to it now it is back in the 4wd. Mick

@@HavaCrack thanks for replying mate, it was the cotter pin that holds the selector to the case. Replaced and it now works better than ever

@@ryanhosking4333 Good to hear you found out the problem. I am also glad the video helped with your install. What vehicle did you put the 85s in and was it an auto, and if so how did you find it.

I put some arb airlockers in a jk. Lot of mucking about with shims, but the good thing of the autolocker in a dana diff is that you won't have to play with shims. Regards, Mick

If you look at the schematic on the relay it may have an image of a diode sumilar to this >| Between pins 85 & 86 on the outside of that circuit. If it has an image of a rectangle between those pins on the outside of the coil image then it has a resistor. If it has nothing, just an image of a coil between 85 &86 then it has neither. If it has a make and part number you could google the specs. Mick

Can you get a reading on your scannet for the vnt solenoid controller? Mick

Hi not sure if you mean what are sometimes referred as the kingpin bearings (top and bottom of knuckle and yes before someone comments I know they are not king pins) or you mean the wheel bearings. The simple answer if the top/bottom do not have any play or rust then leave them, they are a bit more prone to holding water if you do a lot of river crossings and the seals are worn. If you do change these there is a plate (disc) under the bearing which acts a bit like a welsh plug you can remove without damaging but sometimes good to have one handy. Re the wheel bearings same, if they are worn, evidence of heat or corrossion or mud then replace but if smooth then you can leave them be. If your wiper seals are bad then buy a kit and it is a good time to replace. Not sure if this helped. Any questions let me know. Regards Mick

I have never been sure of the people who say manual hubs are stronger, I would not put too much emphasis on that statement. I have seen autohubs used where cvs have broken but the autohubs are fine and it takes quite a bit to break a cv. Re manually locking the hubs, that is what I do, and i only ever have them in auto mode if I was moving a short distance, just habit for me though. If yours were ratcheting yes could be too much grease, but if you want to check that the meshing splines are not damaged you know how to pull them apart to clean and inspect. If they do not have any damaged splines then lightly grease etc. and put back together. Mick

@@HavaCrack Ok, thanks, I will do the check!

Bill, I am no expert, just like tinkering and learning. But a resistor performs the same function as the diode but with some minor difference in relation to voltage drop (not relevant in a 12 volt circuit) and allows current flow. A relay with a resistor is used as it does not matter if + or - is connected to 85 or 86, where a diode has to be wired with the correct polarity 1. to work and 2. to prevent damage to the diode, so a resistor is more safe in that less likely to damage the suppression of having a diode. The best I found as to why two diodes in a relay is that speeds up release contact time www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=Definitions_Relays&DocType=SS&DocLang=EN As far as measuring the resistance across 85-86 I have typically measured 67-87ohms on a number of relays, does not matter if it has a diode or resistor. On a relay with a resistor I pulled one apart and measured 6.2megaohms for the resistor value. If your relay is measuring 0ohms across 85/85 are you sure it is working as the diode should not be impacting the resistance of the coil in the relay.

Thanks, I think. If you mean lack of hoses and connectors then yes. If you meant lack of dirt, The 4wd gets used, but yes I keep it clean. Mick