After a few desert rain storms it seems to be holding up. I had some rain spashing up and under the bottom of the metal where it hang over the cement and the gaps that I had to fill with foam were bigger; it managed to come up and seep in between the panel & the steel beams in one spot. The foam spray does come away from the metal in some spots. I had also used a seal along the entire bottom perimeter of the steel (where it sits onthe cement- it was a construction sealant. I can't remember if I'd put that in the video or not. But that is required for rain and bugs, and probably is making all the difference. After I installed the 2 layers of 2" insulation & osb sheathing, I sealed the bottom again with silicone before I covered it up with drywall. Hope that makes sense!

I ended up buying 6" screws and had to find super long drill bits (one for the steel and one for the wood) and attached the osb to either the steel studs or the wood studs. Then the drywall is attached to the osb using 1 in screws. I ended up adding some blocking (using 2x4s) across those empty areas where I needed more structure, mostly in corners of rooms.

ps - also the insulation is 4" thick. Thats why the 6" screws and long drill bits.

It was when I went up there, to bikes only. After all that I was too tired to go back and try to check tho! If I had another day I would have gone to see if it was flooded from the top.

@@fayeoc called the ranger station it’s still closed! Cool video

@@jonnytacooutdoors wow still?!!! Crazy! Good to know, thanks!

@@fayeoc you got it

And it was in March, so it was only around 90!

@@fayeoc 90? I didn’t think you did anything till it gets over 100.

I covered up the steel to the building with that rubberized flashing tape. Then I sealed around the edges of the window to the steel window frame with a waterproof sealant. The trim that will go around it it is still tbd. But it'll include a top piece that will (in theory) route water from the top... some kind of J trim piece.

@Faye Guastamacchio ok ya I was just curious because I noticed you mounted the windows to like the inside of the wall instead of flush with the exterior and I hadn't seen anyone do that I guess so I was interested

@Faye Guastamacchio must be just that style of window maybe? I've been looking at windows for my shouse and from what I've seen most of them seem to stick out a little on both sides, but yours seems recessed in a good amount

@@burnouttv9709 I looked at mounting it both ways. It could have gone either way. With the interior insulation I have, I thought it looks better if the window isn't so recessed into the wall. I've got the bathroom done with a window, I should post that soon.

@@fayeoc it looks good either way, thanks for the info

Must be cold out there right now!

Thanks! Did you go with the same type of thing for sealing it?

@@fayeoc I used spray foam for the ceiling which sealed the gaps in the upper areas. Then attached 2 x 4 to the 2 x 2 steel tubing flat side to create attatchment areas for the OSB to screwed to with regular wall insulation sandwiched between the outer steel panels and the OSB. The foam panels you used is a great idea.

It's called great stuff. I went with the "gaps and cracks" version since some of the gaps were big. There's also a version for doors and windows. Stuffs.... Great. 😉

@@fayeoc thank u

I'm not sure of the number. I've got the 4" total of the eps foam, which is think is 15 or 16 total. But add on the reflective coating on the back along with a 2.5 inch air gap in between the steel and the reflective coating. Once it's all completely done I will know whether this was a great idea or terrible!

OH also! The ceiling will have 6" of regular fiberglass batting, along with the eps foam lining the attic walls and roof.

@@fayeoc Something I have learned....While going above and beyond on insulation...[read higher than minimum] is something that gives you immediate return on your money. Electricity costs will continue to rise per KWH....So the more insulation the better... My broth has a 40 X 100 X 16 stell building....It's r50 in the cieling and R30 in the walls.

You heard right. Mine varies between 46 and 52 inches. I centered a stud in each section, and used my all wood interior walls (24 on center) as the start point for my joists. So the joists did not usually line up with the studs that are added to the perimeter of the building. If that makes any sense!

Also, my building is 24x60.

The notches are only to make space for the building anchors that are holding up the framing. The insulation is being held on with insulation pin hangers, glued to the metal "studs." These from mcmaster carr, the style that you glue with your own adhesive, (I used gorilla construction adhesive). The ones with the adhesive backing probably won't last as long. I bought them a little longer than the thickness of the insulation and trim off later with a grinder. They're sharp! I instantly got sliced up the first day I was using them. After that, I stuck on spare pieces of foam over the ends of the pins while they dried so I wouldn't get cut every time i got close to it! www.mcmaster.com/insulation-hangers/ That was my goal too, to be able to repair things and have them more accessible later!

Yes! I should have pointed out that my foam boards have that on one side.

@@fayeocthank you for responding my question

Oh? I'll try that, thanks!

Spray foam was way out of my price range. There were many pros and cons about other types of insulation. EPS was best for the dry & extreme temperature range for my desert conditions.

@@fayeoc okey, thanks for answering my question!

sure!

@@fayeoc thanks faye. Great catch