Windows and Walls: framing the inside of the steel building (part 7)

[@tedsmith5058]

Hello from the great state of Michigan

[@fayeoc]

Must be cold out there right now!

[@clairemoore9012]

Hey did I miss it? Do you have a video on the exterior door? How you installed it from wood framing onto metal or not? Thank you so much

[@fayeoc]

I hadn't posted a video on the door. We framed the door with steel, like the windows. Then attached the door jamb directly to the steel. The door recessed in a lot, so we added extra pieces of steel that extended inward for more stability. If that makes sense. I didn't take very good photos of that.

[@hunterseat]

I was browsing KZbin and this came up. 🙂

[@burnouttv9709]

Question? How did you seal your windows on the outside?

[@fayeoc]

I covered up the steel to the building with that rubberized flashing tape. Then I sealed around the edges of the window to the steel window frame with a waterproof sealant. The trim that will go around it it is still tbd. But it'll include a top piece that will (in theory) route water from the top... some kind of J trim piece.

[@burnouttv9709]

@Faye Guastamacchio ok ya I was just curious because I noticed you mounted the windows to like the inside of the wall instead of flush with the exterior and I hadn't seen anyone do that I guess so I was interested

[@burnouttv9709]

@Faye Guastamacchio must be just that style of window maybe? I've been looking at windows for my shouse and from what I've seen most of them seem to stick out a little on both sides, but yours seems recessed in a good amount

[@fayeoc]

@@burnouttv9709 I looked at mounting it both ways. It could have gone either way. With the interior insulation I have, I thought it looks better if the window isn't so recessed into the wall. I've got the bathroom done with a window, I should post that soon.

[@burnouttv9709]

@@fayeoc it looks good either way, thanks for the info

[@WhispersFromTheDark]

Question, how did you attach the framing to the inside walls?

[@fayeoc]

I ended up buying 6" screws and had to find super long drill bits (one for the steel and one for the wood) and attached the osb to either the steel studs or the wood studs. Then the drywall is attached to the osb using 1 in screws. I ended up adding some blocking (using 2x4s) across those empty areas where I needed more structure, mostly in corners of rooms.

[@fayeoc]

ps - also the insulation is 4" thick. Thats why the 6" screws and long drill bits.

[@bobbywartman2058]

So it's hot out there....What is your Total Wall R value and what will your ceiling R value be?

[@fayeoc]

I'm not sure of the number. I've got the 4" total of the eps foam, which is think is 15 or 16 total. But add on the reflective coating on the back along with a 2.5 inch air gap in between the steel and the reflective coating. Once it's all completely done I will know whether this was a great idea or terrible!

[@fayeoc]

OH also! The ceiling will have 6" of regular fiberglass batting, along with the eps foam lining the attic walls and roof.

[@bobbywartman2058]

@@fayeoc Something I have learned....While going above and beyond on insulation...[read higher than minimum] is something that gives you immediate return on your money. Electricity costs will continue to rise per KWH....So the more insulation the better... My broth has a 40 X 100 X 16 stell building....It's r50 in the cieling and R30 in the walls.