WoW !!!! too good !! thank you , best regards Steve

I love the build. Great editing. My only issue is that the tool post can swivel every time you change a tool.

Could this be safely used on cast iron skillets and other cast iron cookware, or would the black iron oxide taint the food?

The background music ruins the video. Please make it stop

So since my tools are already nicely rusty, can't I just boil them and call it a day?

cute video :)

Does this mean I could just put a rusty part in boiling water to turn it black? 🤔

Di hydrogen monoxide ...also called water...🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

One thing to consider is the impact of repeated boiling water on the temper of your tools. Im afraid boiling for roughly an hour combined makes your tool/part brittle. You can attempt to minimize this by quenching in oil after boiling, but then you must degrease, reapply hydrogen peroxide/salt/vinegar, let sit, then boil. You can quickly see how this takes much longer then cold blueing. This can work, & is probably the cheaper method, especially for larger items. however, it takes far too long imo. As you need to repeat the process multiple times, its much easier to purchase cold blueing solution. It works better, with a deeper black. Its also instant.

What dilution percentage of hydrogen proxide did you use?

Can you tell me the amount of each product please?

very good bluing, thank's for teaching, 1 question, the material, you work with, is aluminum, ???? right ??? have a good day

So, what happened to this fantastic project?

I inow this is an old video, but for those who may have stumbled onto it like I did: There is no requirement to use a drawbar with milling cutters on a lathe. A ER or 5c collet chuck that mounts onto the spindle will work just fine. The drawbar is a quick way to mount MT collets, though. Your lathe will have a native MT taper in the spindle, and a set of inexpensive Morse Taper collets can generally be found on ebay or other online sites. The downside, of course, is that you're limited to the depth of the collet if you want to hold a workpiece. That's where a hollow drawtube is a big, big plus.

Did you plan to kill two flats on the head just so we have some foot hold to torque the holding bolt?

Nice video and presentation. Page 10:44 indicates the receptacle was turned and measured before the plug saw holder. What if the plug is turned to fit the saw perfectly but later realize that the receptacle bore is larger than the plug a bit more than you intended?

Very nice work. I need to make one

The music is awful, do you see very popular youtube machinists with music overlays? me neither, It's distraction and boring... try without it, you may gain some viewers, and stop being so scripted it is easily as boring than the music...

I’ve got the same lathe with the flat top to the base , mine is number 224870

I just found this channel. Great info and I was really looking forward to seeing him build the Curta from scratch. I went to his blog website and found that he passed away in 2023. Rest in peace and thank you for sharing your knowledge in a fun way.

What is the song used at 6:19?

Its taken me most of the weekend but I think I have it right and repeatable. I followed Justin's method and also read the blog he linked in the info and like he said and its read some changes may need to be made but on both instances its a really great start. The TSP was a great degreaser, follow Justin's amounts. I used both 3% & 6% hydrogen peroxide I found using 3% required an extra tablespoon of salt and required 1 less for the 6%. I used the same amount about quater of a cup. Heat it up as per the video. I used 8% acidic vinegar same times displayed in the video. I brushed it on as per the video, dried it off with a heat gun as per the video I just gently wiped of the bubbly bits before putting it in the boiling water. I live in Brisbane Australia and our tap water worked no differently than using demineralised water, I tried both. I followed Justin's instructions and ecthed the parts straight out of the water. Once etched I dried them off and followed the process from step 2 through to 5 until I was happy with the black oxide finish personal preference. If your strapped for time doing the final boil for 10 minutes works just as good as 20 minutes. Changing the water before the last boil isn't a must from what I tell it keeps the oil cleaner without transferring red oxide residue. I tried 3 types of oil soak, vegetable oil, mineral oil and new engine oil. Forget the engine must have something to do with the detergents in it. Vegetable oil worked well but mineral oil (baby oil) worked best. Oil soaking time didn't effect anything if I soaked overnight or soaked it until it cooled down. All in all in, my first time doing any black oxidising it was great fun i learnt so much about household chemicals, Justin's video has an excellent explanation and easy to follow process. All ingredients purchased from the supermarket except hydrogen peroxide i purchased that from my local chemist. Give it a try. Thanks for sharing it.

This process does not affect the form of the steel? size? Specially, if there’s fine threads on the part that is being process?

Wow! That is awesome.

Does this work with steel or iron?

The old 'Brown Bess' blunderbuss were rust-blued, but the rusting chemistry was different. Antimony salts were commonly used...you'd get a deep purple-brown finish. Was common to 'scald' steel parts using cooking oil after they were colored...like seasoning a frying-pan.

Nice work buddy 👏

IMHO: THE MUSIC IS WAY TOO LOUD, AND DISTRACTING!!!...IT'S TOO BAD THAT SO MANY HOURS ARE WASTED TRYING TO "IMPROVE" THE MACHINES, INSTEAD OF MAKING THINGS!!..

Just trying this and a big thanks for a simple straight forward video. This is much cheaper than cold bluing solution.

Has anyone tried this on carbon steel cookware?

Fantastic project

This follows my previous comment. One way to detect conformity at the cone interface is by a blue ink test. Same ink we use in metal scraping. You will be the judge how much % contact area meets your satisfaction. If we desired to keep the same concept design and time invested in making it, consider this. Options: 1. Replace the inverted solid cone by a ER collet that fits the post bolt and the hollow cone. This way the flexibility in the collet can play a conformance role to better the conformity for stronger holding force. 2. Replace the inverted cone by a matching size metal ball. Ball with a hollow axle and without the northern hemisphere. So the half sphere is pinching against and expanding the hollow cone. 3. Replace the steel solid cone by an equal sized cone made of semi-fluid/solid material to catch up with the expansion of the hollow cone. Material can range from high hardness tire rubber trough lead and up to soft aluminum or soft copper (and not brass). Caveat? down this path we may experience difficulty in releasing the tool holder. That is caused by cone surface friction, because of the soft material had dug into the micro striations on the hollowed cone. That can be entertained by grinding and followed by lapping. 4. Is further improvement on 1 thru 3 above. Yo make a horizontal mirror copy of the upper half cone system to the lower half. Hope this helps.

Terrific thanks

Beautiful results. I am definitely going to try it.

Worked perfectly for me. Thank you Sir! I learned a new skill today. As a side note: I just rinsed the rusty paste off under the tap every time before I dunked it into the boiling water.

WOW! That’s such a simple design but can do some serious cuts!!!! I always looked at those QCTP’s and thought there might be a simpler way to design them, and this is a super awesome idea! You mention it belongs to another engineer and you just made some improvements to it, right? Wish I could scale that down to a Sherline lathe but not sure it would be able to cut it that nice. That shaper can be slow but sure it is a nice machine!!!! Could you tell us the total time it took you to make it? And a guesstimate on how long it would shorten the time by using a mill VS the shaper ? Thank you for sharing this project!

I MISS THE PODCAST!

When cutting threads, it helps to clean the drill of chips and oil it beforehand, as in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqqtknd7q8Srb7s

Very helpful and the piano was nice too.

Just found this. Amazing video. I have a SM 1130. Will be making this. Thanks again.

4:06 What? Between centers without lathe dog? Impressed…

Love to hear what you're saying, but my laptops sound is at 100 percent and still isn't loud enough 😂Maybe I have to try at night when everything is at it's most quiet 😎

Can you use this method on hardened knife steel like 1084 ?

Thank u

I filed down the tip by half, so I could fit the Pentel in my shirt pocket.

Ty very much

thanks for this which was informative as well as entertaining!: I have small handwriting and have only purchased the p205 and p203 to date - have held off the 207 and 209 as think they may produce too broad a line for me but am happy to be corrected by you if you think I’m missing out:) - thanks for this: have subscribed and liked:)

What type of metal can I use to make something like this but with hand tools?

You've been MIA from the KZbin scene for quite awhile. I really enjoyed your videos. I you are still around and can reply to this comment, if you have any information on how to use the various functions of this DRO display, please share them here. Thanks

That doc on the clamping screw 😮