@@rolandocrisostomo2003 my pleasure. Thanks for watching. - Sponge

Hi. Thanks for your question. Unfortunately, you cannot. Once you reconnect the battery, it will see that the seatbelt isn't connected, and will trigger the light to come on. The only way around this, is a handy dandy little resister tool that can be plugged in, to trick the system into thinking that it's still connected. However, most people don't have these. I don't even have one. I just borrow it once in a while from some mechanics I work close to. I'm sure you could buy one. I think in this case, if you need to drive the vehicle, you are probably gonna just have to plan on stopping by a shop that can reset the computer. Or, you might find a process online, to reset it yourself with some turned of the key, or time disconnected from the battery again. Hopefully this helps. Thanks for watching. If you haven't already, please subscribe. Thanks again. - Sponge

@@spongestechtips-xu1xg Hey thanks so much for your reply! So if i understand correctly, I'm going to have to reset the computer anyway, after I replace the seat belt and reconnect the yellow switch?

@@briansmith4974 Hi again. No. Only if you reconnect the battery while it's disconnected. If you keep the battery disconnected, and don't turn the vehicle on in any way, then you install the new or repaired seatbelt, as long as it is correct, or was repaired properly, once you reconnect the battery, the computer should not have any recognition that the belt wasn't there, and light should stay off. - Sponge

@@rickz8192 Hi. Thanks for your comment/question. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to do it. All the vent tubes are mounted from the underside prior to the dash being installed. You might be able to sneak to some screws, however you will not have access to all. It's a huge endeavor, and I'm sad that you may have to traverse it. I hope I never have to again. However, it can be done. You will need to follow 3 or 4 of my videos for help. Pay very close attention to all the plugs and where they go. Especially on the block on the passenger side outer kick panel. Very tricky. It might help to label your plugs and take lots of pictures. Maybe even number them so you know what order to plug the in in reverse. Good luck. Let us know how it goes after you are done. Thanks again for watching. - Sponge

@@terrylimberakis1738 hi Terry. Thanks so much for watching my video and taking the time to comment. I don't typically delve into jobs that need torque specs or even the use of a torque wrench. I'm sure if you look on line, there are torque specs given for the reassembly of the steering column and wheel. However, it's not truly necessary if you tighten it up as tight as possible by hand. Usually, the home do-it-yourselfers don't have a calibrated torque wrench on hand, so I just recommend tightening up as much as possible. I'll look around on line and see if I can find you and answer, or a link. Thanks again. - Sponge

Wasn’t interfering with the eyesight **

Thanks so much for the compliment. I'll be honest, this video is somewhat disappointing to me. I was looking so forward to be able to tell everyone what the magic trick would be. Only to have the reality, that there was no hack. I just feel like my only help is making people realize they are somewhat screwed. At l ast I know I tried. Thanks so much for watching and commenting. - Sponge

Hi. Dynomat what? - Sponge

I see you doing so much work, i think it would be an opportune time to add sound deadening to panels while they are so exposed. ​@spongestechtips-xu1xg

Hello again ​@@dhebbert1653. Thanks so much for taking the time to comment. I gotcha. I now remember you commented on another post where I removed a panel. I believe it was the Hyundai window replacement video. I deliberately didn't answer that one, because my answer might be controversial. Either way, here we go. There are two reasons why I do not take the extra step to sound deadoning. The first, these are customers cars, and I do not have any liberty in doing extra work that is not commissioned by the client. The second reason, and this would be the controversial part, I am not a fan of sound deadoning. Although I understand the benefits of quieting the car, and minimizing vibrations, as a paintless dent removal technician, it actually causes possible future unrepairable damage. If a vehicle sustains a hit from a opening door,cor a shopping cart rolling into it, the sound deadoning has a tendency to cause the metal to stretch x rather than displace. This makes repairing dents, in the future, very difficult, sometimes impossible. So that is why I'm not a fan. Now, if a customer did request to have the panel sound deadoned, I would do it. I would just feel obligated to explain to them what the repercussions might be. I'm sure, with the spectrum of repairs and work that I do, it will happen in the future. If so, I'll gladly do a video on it. Thanks again for watching and commenting. I appreciate you more than you know. - Sponge

I see your point . I like the sound deadening because with a few simple upgrades, modern stereo, leds, etc; an older car can really be brought up to speed. Also, the sound deadening was just a thought because it is something that would otherwise be of limited cost benefit on its own in a well traveled vehicle. I took apart different stuff in my 05 pilot thanks to your videos, and others. I didn't think about the sound deadening while I was doing it😢. It would have added at least 9 more horsepower. The tint gave it 5+

Same thing I’m wondering

@@Stanging84 my pleasure. I finished up with those two pilots. I'm sure I'll get others in the future. For sure, please subscribe. Thanks for watching. - Sponge

@@PatMetheny1980 my pleasure. I wasn't aware of that close of similarities to the Forte. But, understandably, I can see that it would be. So glad my tech tip video helped. Make sure to hit that subscribe button for easy access to more tech tips in the future. Thanks again. - Sponge