I found this while doing a preliminary search for dragon images when I did the dice box for my brother. I did a basic search through google search on images. The key word was dragon. I filtered the results by only showing line drawings. This was one of the first results. The page from where this came is: www.rawpixel.com/search/japanese%20dragon%20drawing?page=1&path=_topics&sort=curated

I did a basic search through google search on images. The key word was dragon. I filtered the results by only showing line drawings. This was one of the first results. The page from where this came is: www.rawpixel.com/search/japanese%20dragon%20drawing?page=1&path=_topics&sort=curated

Essa é uma ótima pergunta. Obrigado por perguntar. Eu não tentei tal coisa. O processo de TiO2 funciona muito bem em vidro e funcionaria bem em um espelho de vidro também. Não acho que o reflexo do espelho seria um problema, pois a energia do laser é absorvida pelo TiO2 e pouco passaria para a superfície espelhada. Essa é uma ideia interessante e eu acho que funcionaria bem. A outra opção seria queimar a parte de trás do espelho e remover o revestimento espelhado.

@@CNCATHome Entendo. muito obrigado por responder e pela atenciosa resposta, agradeço também a dica de fazer o processo do modo que você sugeriu. Um excelente final de semana para você.

Great question! I got these lights about 3-1/2 years ago. Here is a link to Amazon. It looks like you might be able to get them still: www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8FBZC2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

That is a great question. My current mix is about 3:1. 3 parts DNA to 1 part TiO2. I add in a drop or two of food coloring. That mixture has worked well in my airbrush. The coloring really helps see the application.

Thanks. I'm gonna try it to mark steel with a CO2

Not sure about anyone trying a roller. I had someone mention they basically dipped the face of the tile into their mixture and got good results. I would think a very thin mix would self level when brushed on. I had issues with brush streaks and I didn't thin my mix very much. I was looking into how glass and tin plates were coated back in the day for photography. It seems the emulation they used was quite thin and was easy to get an even coat. From that, my takeaway was using a thinner mix. That is what I do in the airbrush and it has worked well.

Gonna try a thinner mix with DNA. My experiments with DNA and hand sanitizer were bust. I couldn’t get an even distribution. More later…

@@bresnik - Experiments are never a bust if you find something out. ;-) There is a plus and minus in using DNA. Plus is that is drys very quickly. The minus is that it drys very quickly. I haven't tried just using water or a water white glue mixture to suspend my TiO2. I have had people comment on both methods. Water would evaporate much slower and would give more time for the TiO2 to distribute more evenly. The glue would help stuff stick to the tile before burning/etching and would be much slower to dry.

It totally screams for that. The issue came in on the placement of the hole and the size of the hole. I would have needed to make the image larger and the tag larger to accommodate AND the space from the edge of the tag to the wrench would make the hole too far away from the edge. If I had changed the shape of the tag, I could have maybe made that work. I did spend some time working on that as it totally says "Put the hole here!"

@@CNCATHome well you tried

It was begging to have the hole in the end of that wrench on the logo. I thought about it and as you pointed out, it really wouldn't work. Great idea though! 🙂 Any time you can integrate design into functionality, it is a big win.

That is an interesting hypothesis. I love the idea. There are a couple things you could try with that. One would be to put glaze on the clay and burn something, then wash the rest of the glaze off and re-glaze with a different glaze and bake the whole thing. Or try burning in the clay before applying any glaze. After the burn try applying a glaze and shove it in the kiln. I question how well the laser would cure the clay but with something thin, it might produce something very unique! 🙂

I am glad you got a good laugh from this one. That is what it is all about. All of the "Will It Burn" videos I have done are supposed to be funny things to try. Have I finally lost it? Not at all. Just ask anyone who has known me for years and they will agree that I lost it LONG ago. 🤣

@@CNCATHome You're too much... Go for it. We need more of you on KZbin especially we laserers.... Thanks

Great advice. I started doing that some time back and it really helps see what you are doing. 🙂

Oh no! I don't like the sound of that. Finding out the hard way that is. Thank you for sharing this information.

Great advice. I have since added food coloring and that makes it so much easier to see how it is being applied. With this air brush, it is basically only a single action and the air is constantly going even with your finger off the trigger. So you do not control the air with the trigger, it only pulled the pin back to control how much is coming out. You can set a maximum if you need to make sure not to have too much coming out.

Thank you! Working in 2D, all we need are two points to align and scale things with each other. 🙂

Thank you for watching. I do hope it was helpful in some way.

😂 - Good catch! That's funny. I did the business card project quite some time ago and I fixed that for the burn and obviously I didn't save the change. On a side note, he is my brother-in-law and I engraved a pencil for him where I made up a new title for him that included Supreme Leader or something like that. He is a big StarWars fan too.

That's great! I have mine on my desk and it up out of the way until I need a good task light. That is nice there is such a great coupon on the product right now. That was good timing on your part to be able to get that at with such a discount! 🙂

I agree. LightBurn always has impressed me with its functionality and ease of use for the price. There are some smart and clever people on that development team. 🙂

That is an interesting idea. The blue masking tape is more difficult to cut through due to its color relation to the blue laser. At best, it would slow down any cutting into your table. I do not use a laser attachment with my 3018. I did add a wooden waste board to protect the table and to insure flatness in relationship to the cutting tool. There should be a video on that. Let me look that up... I guess not. There is a video on modifications I had made to my 3018 and you can see how I integrated the wooded waste board: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4nbppigbZtjaMUsi=XFQW6WOEmc4-byxp

@@CNCATHome thanks!

Just engraving and cutting acrylic. I had not heard of Rowmark before. I looked it up and it just acrylic but layered. I am going to have to give that a try! That looks like it could be fun to try both for the laser and for the CNC router. Thank you for the idea! 🙂

@@CNCATHome yeah they make it with brushed metal finishes and glow in the dark and all kinds of stuff. Was always curious if it would work with a diode laser. Also curious to know how it does with a CNC too.

Very interesting. I had a similar thing happen with a ceramic tile and was never able to duplicate it. I don't know what I did differently on that batch of tiles. I will have to try using it on black acrylic to see if I get similar results. 🙂

That is a great question. The tiles I use, I would call glossy and they have worked great as long as I have my parameters set properly and my lens is clean. ;-) I will have to look for some matte finish tiles the next time I am at the store. I don't remember seeing any. I may have to go to an actual tile store! Which wouldn't be a bad thing as I would like to play around with some colored tiles.

You are completely correct. I didn't mention the heat part. I was thinking more about what you can take away. Heat is a difficult one to remove. It is important to respect all tools as they are both your friends and enemy. All we can do, if we are going to use them, is to use best practice.

Not directly. I would reach out to Atomstack support and see what they have. www.atomstack.com/ I saw an entire refurbished P7 for $170 on their site.

Thank you for the input. You may have noticed that the two runs were done differently. I do like to save time when doing my etching. In this case, running one tile at a time wasn't a good time saver. I had already run a similar project and I knew the settings would work well. Your method would be if I was doing this for the first time or had made some major change that might affect the outcome. The second run was quite a bit faster which is one of the advantages of running batches vs one at a time. I like the way you are thinking! I do like to run a preview of a job and play with the optimization to see if there is a faster way. 🙂

Thank you so much for that. I am glad you are able to learn something from our videos. That is one of the main reasons we do them is to present things in a way that people can get something helpful from them.

That is a great question. I was using my Genmitsu LC-50 + which has a 10 watt diode (LED) 455nm laser.

Nice catch. I looked up some formal information on this and before the wedding, such as announcements, you put the bride first. After the wedding day, such as a thank you card, they have the groom's name first. As these are place markers for after the wedding, it could be Justin and Gwen. It is also the same day as the wedding so it should be bride first. I always do the bride first as a wedding is "her" day. I know Gwen and have not yet met Justin so he gets second seat. Why do wedding have so many rules! ;-)

That is very odd. I was able to watch past that time point without issue. I have not gotten any other notifications that the video is acting up. In digging through my KZbin portal, I am not seeing anything there either. There have been times when I have had a video freeze on me when it gets to a specific point. Not sure what causes it. If I skip forward in the video, it is fine. If I go back it is find. Then it sticks when it gets to "that" point. Eventually, it has always played after skipping back enough times. When that happens to me, it seems to be some type of corrupt video information that I got from KZbin. You would think a reboot would have done the trick too. Give it some time and try again. If it still won't play for you, please let me know and I will dig into this a bit more.

@CNCATHome where I begin to play the Twilight Zone theme, is when I play from any time *before* the glitch, it shuts down at the exact same spot every time. If I begin the video at a point *exactly* one second later, it plays all the way through to the end.

I let the video run from start to finish and it didn't have any issues. My guess is that your browser received some bad video data and cached it and that is why it doesn't want to play. Watching it later or clearing your cache would likely resolve the issue. Do let me know if you continue to have issues with this video. Thank you Hugo.

@@HugoHugunin - You are in a place where time and video are out of sync. A place where lost information prevents you from seeing the whole video. You are in, The Twilight Zone. That sound exactly like corrupted data getting to you. I have verified that the video itself is OK. How you describe that is how corrupted data that is cached in your browser will behave. You can skip that second of the video or clear your cache. Thank you for letting me know about the issue so I can keep an eye out for others having a similar problem and I can look into the analytics for this video once they start to settle in.

🙂

No, I'm not funny. 😆

I wish it was the battery! That can be an easy one to overlook if you think it is fully charged. Several years ago, there was an issue with the battery not wanting to charge. I had fully charged it recently and I did put my meter on it and it was putting out full voltage plus a little extra like a fully charged battery should. I also plugged the radio into the wall power supply to insure it wasn't a power input issue. I did some testing with the meter in the radio to insure the power was getting from the power management board to the brains of the radio and it was. One of the volume knobs had been acting up and would cause the power to shut off to the who unit even thought it was not the one with the on/off switch. I am guessing that is where the problem is hiding. I did what I could do with the equipment I have and just didn't get it going this time. I have a friend looking at it who is an electrical engineer (recent graduate so it is all fresh in his mind) and hope he can figure something out. I did buy a new radio and am figuring out the new technology. 🙂

@@CNCATHome Maybe you need to spray some of that electrical stuff on the on/off switch. It might not be making good contact anymore.

@@karlriley1314 - Good place to look. I was able to trace power and the on/off switch was turning it on and off so that wasn't it. Old equipment with mechanical switches and such are prone to getting dirty and some good contact cleaner can make a big difference sometimes.

Thank you so much! I had been researching new radios and had not pulled the trigger on getting anything. When this radio went out, I knew it was time. It also helped that they were having a flash sale on the two rigs I was looking to get. They came with some extra stuff and where $20 off to boot. They are both here now and I have been playing with the handheld unit. I am warming up to it after 29 years of using the same one. I also got a mobile rig that I will set up more like a base station but also put in my car when I want to. :-) With the price of electronics going down and the functionality going up, I got both of these radios for less than my old one 29 years ago.

@@CNCATHome Years ago I had a friend who was a HAM (WB6MMM) and I thought that I might try it. Darn morse just wouldn't fit into my brain. So, I went CB and had an 18' base antenna that I would take up to the top of Mt. Hamilton. On cold winter nights I could "reach out" and my furthest skip was Point Barrow, in *Alaska* from San Jose, California. Oh, and no linear amp! Well, since you don't *NEED* the $5, how about buying a really decent beer to enjoy? 🍺🍺🍺

@@HugoHugunin - Back in the 90s, they opened up a new license where you do not need a code rating. You have to pass two tests, general and technician. If you do that, you can get what is called a no code tech license. The only restriction over a regular technician license is basically some restrictions in the Morse code bands. If you know some basic electronics and and learn a few rules, it is easy to get. CB is a nice long wave band. That is 10 or 11 meter frequencies? It's 11m, I looked it up. ;-) That is incredible that you got all the way from San Jose to Barrow! 18' antenna is a half wave and would have worked well for you. Barrow changed their name to Utqiagvik. Try saying that 5 times fast. ;-) My son and a couple buddies were just up there for the summer solstice. He just got home today and I can't wait to see the pictures and hear the stories of their adventures.

The best way to be consistent is to have some sort of zeroing template. You need a way to insure your tiles are always where you need them to be. I have a couple videos on making templates. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rn20fXiXa6iFq8k kzbin.info/www/bejne/rWLMeaCZiM2nrZI kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5qXc6Cig5qKfac

@@CNCATHome thanks for the reply!! My quadrants are not being burned onto separate tiles but on to one large surface.

@@sadlerro - I got ya! That is what you were saying but because it was on this video about breaking up an image for tiles, I assumed... ;-) If you are using LightBurn, you can use their Print and Cut feature to burn an area, move your material, and continue burning. You will have to break up your burn into the areas you can do at one time. I have a couple videos on the Print and Cut feature. You can also check out the LightBurn KZbin channel for some videos on that feature. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqnKc5ajbddrjZY kzbin.info/www/bejne/h4PLmXWKfcd7oNk www.youtube.com/@lightburnsoftware7189/search?query=print%20and%20cut

Good question. Aluminum is none magnetic and this would not work. You would need to use a different type of clamping method.

You remind me of Mr Roger's. I used to watch Mr Roger's Neighborhood all the time, about 35-40 years ago. This is a good video for beginners.

@@sdrawkcab_ssa - That is high praise being compared to Fred Rogers. I grew up watching his show 50+ years ago. Land of make believe, trolley, King Friday... Thank you for that. It's a beautiful day in the neighborhood...

@@CNCATHome Mr Roger's definitely made a big impact on kids back in the day. I see your videos doing the same in the laser community as well.

That is a great question. I have not gotten that to work yet. I have also not tried very hard to use this with metal. It is a good thing to put on my list to try. I have tried using an etching compound designed for metal. With the lower power of my diode laser, I did not get it to work.

That is great! I am glad it help you out. Thank you so much for the greetings from Spain! :-)

Thank you so much for this. My coffee comes in a can and is called Coke. I will totally have one. 🙂

That is funny. It must be the style of shooting the video that I do that is a holdover from the 90s. I am surprised it isn't from the 70s or 80s. ;-)

@@CNCATHome Yeah, some of it just reminded me of VHS tapes. But then again, some other parts didn't. So it's not like it's fully consistent either

@@TNH91 - That is interesting. I used one video camera for all of the live shots. The LightBurn was captured directly from the computer. The website for the boxes does have quite a retro look to it. Maybe that is part of why it has that feel to it. :-)

It is unfortunate that any comments may have been removed. In the entire life of the channel, I have removed one or two comments from the channel. I am looking now to see if there was some sort of automated thing from KZbin that did something with your comments but am not finding anything. I found 5 comments that were held for review and none of them were from your account. I am at a lost as to what happened to your comments.

Seems like KZbin likes to delete comments at odd times, with no real reason that I can see. It's happened to me more than I think KZbin should do, for innocuous comments. At least they've managed to do _something_ about all the scam comments that were everywhere. So this might be some false positive results from that as well.

Thank you! :-)

That is a great idea. What type of material do you use and how thick is it? I would think something thin would work well. I was thinking of lining my box with felt and still might do that.

I am glad it helped out! I hope your burn turns out well.

Thank you. It is a great way to learn. Something, something goes wrong and it turns into a new technique for doing something. Or is it is a big loss of material and a good learning experience.