I need to get a better video uploaded but here is one from the other year: kzbin.infoOzWGoK6sS0g?feature=share

I tried wrapping the rope around the tire 1.5 times early on and I couldn't keep the rope on the tire. It wanted to keep walking off the side. I concluded that I would need something with walls on it (like just the tire rim without the rubber) to keep the rope on. I didn't mention it in the video but with my current setup, I can pull 3 adult men up the hill simultaneously without any slipping.

Glad you find them helpful. Torque specs can be found in the zenith construction standards manual. I think it’s saved in the online builders page that you need a password to access. Page 32 lists torque specs for AN hardware. AN3 is listed as 20-25 in-lbs plus the driving torque. I have been using 8 in-lbs for driving torque so I’m driving everything to 30 in-lbs. The driving torque is essentially the friction from the nylon nut. It can vary from nut to nut; especially if you reuse a nut so keep an eye on it.

Thanks for the tip!

I do not know for sure but if I had to guess I would say a larger majority are final hole size. I know Zenith has been upgrading all of the parts. The number of final hole size parts from my first kit to my last kit went up dramatically. Glad you enjoyed the videos. Best of luck on your build.

I had to drill all the holes in the brackets. Only holes that existed were the ones in the landing gear brackets on the fuselage. It was a fairly tedious process but well outlined in the picture guides.

@@dustybodine5221 thanks for the reply, I only got blueprints

Haven't put it on any scales yet. I don't have anything else FWF including the cowl and prop so whatever I came up with would probably be too much of a guess to start adding weight. I am planning on using a lithium battery somewhere in the back so that should help out. No plans for paint yet either. We will see how it shakes out later this year. I have spoken to a few guys at OSH with the O-320 and they had nothing but good stuff to say about the engin choice.

I haven't created/posted one but I think I have some footage. Check back in a few days and hopefully I can get it up.

Direct from Zenith. They had it in stock and ready to ship.

@@dustybodine5221 can you confirm the O-235 and O-320 use the same mounts? Engine looks great on there.

@@b7gwap Not 100% certain. The factory should be able to answer that one or a local mechanic.

😀😀😀😀

www.thingiverse.com/thing:4650256

I will reach out once I get a slightly more polished design. I am working on the alignment now. I need to adjust the angle by a degree or two so that it doesn't wear too fast.

www.thingiverse.com/thing:4650256 Sorry for the delay in getting this posted. Let me know if you try printing them!

I was planning on running all of the wing wires in a corrugated wiring loom thru the trailing edge. I will put some connectors in so I can remove everything easily if need be.

Correct, by using the drill press I am guaranteed a 90 degree angle to its base when I drill without having to measure. I verified that the base was level to the ground and finally checked that the strut was level left to right. The twist of the strut could not be measured externally as the entire outside of the strut is rounded. There are two flats inside the strut which is why I used the attachment brackets to align the strut with the clamps.

Andrew Betances thanks for the comment. I have spent lots of time over the last few years pondering engine choices. I have read lots of positive and negative reviews about all of them. I respectfully disagree that the Viking engine is more reliable than a Lycoming. They are however quite inexpensive. My engine was free to me which was ultimately the deciding factor on the O-320. I have only invested $700 into the mount so I’m still not completely married to it yet.

@@dustybodine5221 faur enough. I am building a 701. I'm a bit limited on engine choice. I just looked up the Mitso, rotax equivalent for Lycoming, and the weight of the IO233 is a no go for my little plane. For now, it's between a $28k rotax, $12k Viking, or I think also $28k UL. I am pretty interested in the Yamaha RX1 but i think it would be too much of a custom job at this point.

@@andrewbetances1203 don’t forget Aeromomentum for your 701. I think they have a little one that wouldn’t be enough for the 750 but might be just right for the 701, and you get a brand new long block and PSRU instead of a salvaged engine for around a similar price. I’m building a 750 and will be following Dusty here by doing a Lycoming myself. aeromomentum.com/am10.html

Jason, Sorry for the delay. Here is a link to the dimple sets: www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/popgripdimp.php?clickkey=6499 Hope this helps.

Hey Wylie. Each flaperon is right around 4 foot. I will try and get an exact length measurement tonight. Unfortunately, there are several other spots on the plane that will require a brake that is significantly longer. The tail section comes to mind first. I think the horizontal tail spar will require almost a 9 foot brake. Hope this helps! Another route is to purchase just the individual components from Zenith that you can't make on your brake. They will sell any component you need.

Here is a link to purchase the drawings. Best of luck! www.zenithair.co/zenithstore/product-category/stol-ch-750/stol-ch-750-component-kits/

Yea, it is a little annoying but all rivet guns operate this way as far as I know. The stem will fall with gravity so if you use the rivet gun upside down then the rivets will fall into the catcher. You can also tip the rivet gun upside down between each rivet and the stem will fall into the catcher as well.

Glad you find them helpful!

It was a great place to camp. Beautiful sunsets and surrounded by float planes!

Thanks!

Thanks Scott, glad you found it useful.

I have seen a few comments where they recommend building both at the same time. If you make a mistake I feel you might be more likely to make it twice but you might be less likely to make a mistake since you are doing everything twice.

You are welcome. Always good to learn from the mistakes of others.

leadpan I would recommend starting with the rudder if you haven't already and then continue with the tail kit. The rudder gives you a real cheap (comparatively) way to find out if you enjoy the build. Most guys hang it on the wall while they build the rest. Then you can move onto the wings. Fuselage would be a good last kit if you are short on space.

I am glad you enjoyed the video. I know all of the extra videos I can find are very useful so I figured I would pass the help along.