The Jerry is something I made. The Load Master can be purchased at WMHracing.com.

I have found between 5a and 6a is best.

I have found that with just about every motor out. There are large groups of people are supporting just about every motor out. Even the motors I see as not being great at all. This is why I got into testing them. Therefore, people can see the difference of each motor.

@wutupclegg6618 absolutely i completely agree. With all products there is brand loyalty even if the products are that great. That's why I was digging around trying to find any tests on it that I could find, but I came up empty.

Yea, not much info. I hear it's a good motor, but I have not seen one run. I would like to test one soon.

That is a good unit for tuning your motor.

You can get them at WMHracing.com.

We'll help you out.

check out my video where I tested the difference those bearings make.

Nice!

It would be best to find your gearing first.

Hello @markbodger4873. A few months before I did this video, I did a video where I did a complete breakdown review of this motor and showed how I tuned it. I added the link at the end of this video.

I am actually working on that. However, you can only use the rotors that ROAR has approved for that motor. Otherwise, it is considered an illegal/cheater motor.

@wutupclegg6618 yeah I realize that but mainly wanting to see what rotor is best and the extra one that motor companies should make. Most places don't care if you run the "illegal" rotor as long as it falls within the roar specs. Like exalt makes multiple rotors that fall within roar specs but technically can only have one that's "roar approved" per motor.

Yes Sir. I am currently doing just that. I am swapping modified rotors into spec motors. It will be posted soon. I'm shooting to have it posted tonight, but editing takes a long time. Basically, I mod'ed a Slot Machine 2 motor.

Hello Peter. I will make sure to state what track I think a motor will work best on. I believe I do it in most of my videos already. For a short high traction track, I would definitely recommend the Surpass V6.

Thank you. As a follower of your channel and watching your video I did buy a surpass v6. You were correct, it's an amazing motor on the tuner, but when I put it in the car. It was clogging at under 25 percent throttle(low speed). Regardless of all the gearing changes it was clogging down low and different sensor wires. So I sent it back. Do you think I got a defective unit? I am not sure if it's the character of the motor. What's a good second option? Should I buy another surpass v6 and try again? Thanks for the response

It sounds like a defective motor. I have only heard really good things about that motor. Personally, I would try another V6. If you wish to get a different motor, the Team Exalt Pheonix motor would be my second choice. I tested the Silver version and it was almost identical to the V6, in performance. However, it is $140. The Gold version, I was told, is even better, but it's up there around $180. Then again, some people tell me it performs as good as the V6, which is almost $100 cheaper.

Yes sir. That's why I always recommend taking pictures.

I'm sure they are more now. Are they Snap On or Blue Point. Mine are Blue Point.

Maybe once my channel can support me being motors, I'll be able to venture off on to motor add ons.

Thank you.

I suspect that many motors are made by the same company. I would not be surprised seeing parts swapped out amongst different brands. I have not tried it, but I recently had a desire to.

I bought one and threw I in the fantom helix v1 and it worked. It didn't make the motor anything crazy though

How did it compare? I'm guessing it had more speed, but less torque.

@@wutupclegg6618 So I was thinking it would have more torque since more magnetic surface area but it definitely seemed to be more of a low torque higher ram rotor. I also was talking with exalt and they said usually on smaller tracks they use the 24mm rotor

A higher gauss will also give you more torque. Their V1 rotors have a really low gauss.

Yes I do. I'm trying to make sure that power delivery is the same for all motors. just 0.1 volts will greatly change the performance of a motor.

No I have ben thinking about it. I can't finger out a Brand to get.

@@michaelvtx1 what brands are you looking at?

i can't remember. I'm open for any ideas??

what features are you looking for?

Yes. There is a point where the motor has a good mixture high rpm and good torque. Think of it like the timing on a gas car. There is a sweet spot on it.

I would like to test a new version to see the difference.

That's what I figured That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm not in need of it immediately but I would like to get it back in a short period of time. LOL

That's what I figured That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm not in need of it immediately but I would like to get it back in a short period of time. LOL

Check your email.

@ If you ever test it, please share your results.

Thank you very much!

Hello Michael. The timing was adjusted to about 49*. Check out my video where I tuned it and compared it to a Slot Machine.

Where do you get your rotor shims and what size are they?

I get the sims from Amain Hobbies. I don't know the size, but 90% of the motors, out there, accept the same size shims.

That motor is on my wish list. From what I've been told, Fantom wasn't really happy with their last motor. This one is to help redeem themselves.

@wutupclegg6618 wow really!? It was a great and fast Motor. I had it in my sons B6.3 associated buggy and it was fast and I put in the biggest rotor they have. Can't wait to try out the new one

With a different rotor, it was good. The biggest complaint was, it kacked torque.

@wutupclegg6618 I didn't see that problem with our 21.5 but then again I did switch the rotor to the bigger one after noticing that the diff bearings were really bad and was so much faster with smooth running bearings haha

LOL... bearings are important. You will notice a little more of a difference with a lower winding motor.

It's a great motor. I normally measure the rotors, but my battery was dead at the time.

Not yet, but it's coming. I believe they are about to release a new motor soon.

Hello. Yes, you just need to hook up the sensor wires.

Thank you. If you are needing more torque, due to a shorter track or your motor is getting too hot, you can drop the timing instead of the gearing. Sometimes it just takes 1 or 2 degrees to make that change you desire.

I agree. I wonder if anyone has shorted out the motor because of that.

bypassing the fuse can work, but it is very dangerous. Your heating element might be bad and causing the fuse to pop. That's what happened to my old one. I have the new version, which I have had for almost a year. I'll be doing a review on it soon.

I actually like this motor. It would be really nice on a large clay track..

My thoughts exactly.

I'll have to look. I was told where was, but I couldn't figure it out.

The slit in the foam is where the sensor wire is. That's where it comes when you get it.

Hello ThanasiKass. When I did my test, I did find that 50 was a good spot. However, it can change slightly from motor to motor. I do remember the reading on the can was a few degrees higher than the actual timing. So, you might be safe putting it at 50*. If you find it is getting too hot, then step it back a little. If you have find your motor is still running under the desired temp, then up it some. Just make sure you're having fun out on the track.

Hello Malkie0831. Check out the product review video I did on the HW G4R. I run it on the load master and show all the numbers for this motor and the others I have tested. I show the RPM of the load motor to the speed differences as if the load motor was the dive wheels. You and I both know that the RPM of the two motors go hand-in-hand, but many of the viewers like to see the final drive differences.

I get them from Amainhobbies.com.

Thank you very much! Please let me know what you think. I'm open to all comments.

I made this tool by taking two WMH Racing motor mounts and putting them on a sliding bracket that's bolted to an ABS plate. I could make another, but I would have to put number together.

The G4R has a higher RPM, but the Surpass V6 has the most torque, by far. For your application. I would lean towards the V6.

@ thank you for help!

@ also is the g4 and sp5 just so much far behind so not recommendations for those two?

@houchaopeng275 if you watch my video, you will see that they both lack torque. The G4R came out less than a year after the G4 came out, so that should be a warning towards the G4. The SP5 just didn't have the RPM or the torque that the other had. If I were to choose motors for my box, I would get a V6 for short twisty tracks where torque is the key, and an Exalt Phoenix Bronze spec for higher speed tracks.

@@wutupclegg6618 Thank you very much for the recommandation! Do you still carry rocket v6 13.5?

I apologize. I'll try to set up better.

Ask as many questions as you like. That's why I'm here. My image was not reversed. The right showed up on the right of the screen and the left showed up on the left side of the screen. Could your screen have the reverse image feature on it? Some screens will have that feature. Especially if it's an aftermarket in-dash monitor.

@ well do I have some funny news for you. That was the trick hahaha, I just had to change a setting on my radio. Thank you for the help

@@michaelj7732 I love the simple fixes. Let me know if I can help with anything else.

Hello. It sounds like you may have incorrectly re-assembled it. Recheck the pieces that fell out.

@wutupclegg6618 OK, I will do that, Thank you for your help !!

@@me2752 Any time!

Hello Michael. The power plug was different, if I remember right.

Sounds like the crankshaft seal is leaking. Does it smoke really bad when running?

It sounds like you have all kinds of issues. #1) if your idle jet is too small, you will run lean at idle and low throttle. If your main jet is too big and/or the needle is pinned wrong, then it will run rich with 20% or more throttle. #2) Your engine can idle high if your idle jet is too big, you have a leak in the choke seal, or your carburetor slide is stuck open a little. It can also be that you crank shaft seal is leaking and you gearbox is full of full. #3) Your gearbox is full of full because your crankshaft seal s are leaking. Check the stator to make sure there's no fuel on that side.

@wutupclegg6618 thank you very much! I'll tell you what I do, what I find and the solutions, it may help someone else

That would be great! Thank you.

I have a similar question. Mine seems to be wanting to idle high when I open the air screw just a little and hang on to the revs whenever I have it jetted fairly rich but is also still fouling plugs. Gets very thin spooge on plug and thats it. Usually, it takes a while for that to happen of idling and testing but not really riding unless at lower rpms which I know it's not supposed to do that for long or that will happen but it seemed odd that it would run lean at lower rpms, idling, and reving but still foul out plugs? I did put a new plug in a week or so ago, and just recently fouled. Honestly I'm not even sure if it would be considered fouled or not seeing as it just dies and I can take it and wipe off the spooge with a rag, put it in and it fires back up, but just seems to do it very often after the initial time it happens, meaning I'm not sure if it was a setting I changed or the plug actually fouled. I used a JD Jetting kit and ran it how the chart said to as far as I can tell but I've heard the stock pilot for my yz125 is too big and works better with a 37.5 pilot. I've also heard the atomizer wear out over time in Mikuni carbs and the only thing that can be done is replace the entire thing if that happens. I know it's a lot but if you have any suggestions it would be very much appreciated! Thanks!

Just another side note, I've changed the jet block gasket and rebuilt the entire carb pretty much (not choke, though, or idler screw), reeds, power valve service, , repacked silencer and new top end. I say this because it seems to hesitate and have no bottom/low rpm pull when taking off on top of the other issue that I am pretty certain are related. I tried lowering idle to compensate for opening aircrew with the high revs and idle in attempt to balance.

I would love to test those motors. I'll see if I can get my hands on some.

You are very welcome. I love to hear from people all over the world.

Hello Kyle. This is where the Jerry comes in really handy.

Hello J-1lokes. Would love to get into the 1/8 scale motors. I'm hoping to be able to in the future. As for shimming them, I have heard of people shimming these motors. Basically, if it comes apart, it can be modified. I mostly test the stock spec motors because they are the most popular. I have tested a couple up-graded motors, to see what the hype was. I have done videos on all of them.

Sounds good. The 1/8 stuff. I was asking about the 540 cans 4 pole. There for mostly SCT. Comparing with a 7.5 hobby wing. I mostly run at a large track with my ET410.2 . Like your Dino set up.

@@j-1lokes294 Gotcha. Doing mod motors are far on my list. There's just too many windings and brands to be able to try them all. Maybe if they are donated to the channel. It's hard enough to keep up with the 17.5 motors. LOL...