Yes. Not sure what your question here is exactly... You download the files to the SD card, put it in the radio und flash from there...

@@stylesuxx i dont have an SD card slot in my V2. Where do i DL the content. Also cpu will not rec controller.

@@mcemtpockets1775 what? My V2 came with an SD card slot, maybe they removed it in some revision and replaced it with internal memory? Not recognized by CPU means what? By your computer? Usually you just need to plug in your radio once powered on, the radio will then ask if it's mass storage or hid device - you select accordingly. Make sure your USB cable is actually a data cable and not a charging only cable.

@@stylesuxx ok. Thanks. Will try it again...yes cpu will not rec controller when plugged in with the c type data cable. Something about hold down trim keys and power button for windows ro reconize controller. Im just afraid i will brick it. Surely i will dl and exract files on cpu then move to controller internal memery or do i install from cpu to controller. Cant find all inclusive to the V2 without card slot!...really dont wanna brick controller. Thanks for ur help🙏👍

@@mcemtpockets1775 risk of bricking is actually very low. I can't really guide you through it with internal memory, but there can't be much of a difference. Just make sure you mount the radio as "mass storage device" then you should be able to access the internal memory. Preferably do a backup before you play around with it.

That's very kind of you. I am happy that you can get something out of my content, no need for monetary compensation. Just be aware - this video is old, I am pretty sure by now there is much more capable hardware available, so you might want to do some more research ;-)

@@stylesuxx I was actually trying to do it for the post you made on your website. I just happen to check your KZbin hyperlink to see if Super Thanks was turned on, which would make sending money super convenient.

@@carloscervantes836 I just checked, unfortunately I don't fit the criteria to enable super thanks, Seems I would need to be way more active here on YT for that to be enabled. Alternatively I can offer you my paypalme link: paypal.me/stylesuxx

@@RRX-Official no, why?

@@stylesuxx your accent sound like your German, i am German thats why i ask

​@@RRX-Official I am from Austria ;-)

Oh thats really near Germanie maybr thats why it sound german because austria is really near by the German Language

Das ist straff gespannte Schnur.

What is Bulk pin, what is S pin? If it's not shown in the video, you don't need to do it. Also this is only valid for the OG t-Lite, the newer versions already have this issue fixed, so you might not need to do this mod at all...

@@stylesuxx Bulk pin ref to NMOS back metal panel, in text it's name B; S pin ref to NMOS Source pin, the right pin, in text it's name S; I'v mod it using IRL540N, and measured 8.0v between bay pin 2 and pin 3, but after insert tx module, it does not power on, I measured voltage drop to 4.0v between bay pin 2 and pin 3.

Sounds strange to me. It should chirp when you are binding not when you stop binding also what are you binding to? Which protocol and internal or external module?

@@stylesuxx lol FlySky,FRsky ,jumper d8 &d16

@@stylesuxx I have the jp4in1 v2 model I use crossfire but haven't used crossfire yet because I was waiting to order a nano cuz I want to make cuz I wanted to make sure other receivers were working first

@@Addiccted2DRONZ OK, so you are trying to bind with the internal module? Which protocol exactly? I think you are better off asking in the jumper facebook group, will be hard to debug this here without being able to see what you are actually doing ;-)

What do you mean by "not showing status"? Also you should definetly have Frsky X... maybe try re-flashing the multi protocol module?

just use latest and greatest bf version and enable rpm filters, since you are already on bluejay.

@@stylesuxx you try 4.3.1 ? with this version i have a lots disconnect, it seems a bug. you still have 5min of fli time? using 4.1.4 or you have updated to 4.2 or 4.3?

@@fredmartins5162 I am flying basically everything on 4.3.x yeah.. BF version is not really a factor for flight time, unless your tune is completely off...

Yes, pretty sure it is.

@@stylesuxx think you can test it out?

@gunmanjack Not really, I don't have the pro. What would make you think it is different? there is only one format for the slim modules, so it will fit them. Maybe I don't understand what you are asking for?

@@stylesuxx it's the color of the wires since their different

@@gunmanjack3975 OK - why would the color matter? I mean it has a plug on it, there is a plug on the board, just plug it in ;-) Sorry, I must be missing something...

Please use one of the recommended N-Channel mosfets (see description) and double check your wiring.

@@stylesuxx I used the later one from your updated list (a full coding is: IRLB8743PBF TO220AB) - can it be somehow not correct? I don't know a meaning of all these letters. I will check wiring then, but if the voltage measures correctly I guess wires should be in order...

@@pawelturon If it does not turn off when you turn off, there is something wrong. Part seems OK. Which value did you use for the resistor?

@@stylesuxx 10k. Should I swap it to 100k maybe?

@@pawelturon 10k is fine - I've heard issues from people using 100k - that's why I was asking. Measure the voltage on the blue line (or better disconnect it completely) when the radio is off. If the module is blinking when the radio is off, something is interfering with the gate... you double checked that none of your wires has strands that might be shorting out? And just to have all the info, this is a Jumper T-Lite (not pro) and a CRSF slim module - right?

How big is your card? Make sure its FAT formatted. When in doubt, try a different card

Hey, could you try in english or german?

@@stylesuxx Ja, mit den Übersetzern :D Hallo ! Ich bin total begeistert von deinem Programm! Aber wie hast du das gemacht? Glauben Sie, dass es möglich ist, 3D-Objekte zu modellieren? Herzlichen Glückwunsch für Ihre Arbeit!

@@Frpv1 Nein, 3D objekte werden nicht so einfach klappen. Ich generiere im Endeffekt nur XML mit im spiel vorhandenen Elementen

I mean you can "fly a little bit freestyle" with any whoop, but if you want to do freestyle I'd rather go with a toothpick or similar. This one is more for slower cinematic flights where you are not going to crash as much.

haha, happy you like it. On one of your other quads try Bluejay one day - also has bi-directinal dshot and 48kHz and 96kHz version but no license fees ;-)

Which mosfet did you use exactly? double check your wiring I am now running mine for over a year and can't see a reason why it would stop working. What behavior are you seeing exactly?

@@stylesuxx used IRL540N

@@stylesuxx the behavior is the same as before, the module does not remain unstable, so I had to fly using an external battery connected to the module's usb as they recommend on the manufacturer's website

@@juliofaria2014 that somehow does not make sense to me at all - the mod bridges the whole weak point. Only thing I can think of is that the step up converter has some issue - not much you can do there I fear. Check the wiring, check the solder connections and measure the output voltage. I assume you are using high quality 18650 cells, right?

@@stylesuxx correct 18650, i am tester other inclusive

Haha, happy you like it. Sometimes it's really interesting to see how much time goes into a video that ends up to be 2 minutes, always nice to see people appreciate it :-)

No, that is not the same pin, if you do that you are circumventing the step up circuit.

Do you know where I should solder the red wire to to get the correct results?

@@stylesuxx sorry, I’m desperate to fix this. Do you know where I should solder the red wire to to get the correct results?

@@zappy6782 Well, you can use a glass-fiber brush (or something similar) to scratch away the coating and see if you can get enough of the trace so you can solder to. If not you will need to solder yourself to the cap on the other side of the board.

@@stylesuxx is the cap the only component the trace is going to? That will be perfect. It is amazing that the adapters aren’t readily available.

Hmm, you should be able to just pull it out. You sure you inserted it properly? Maybe it was skewed and is jammed now... Just pull harder, i guess ;-)

@@stylesuxx it works so it is coreectly placed

@@TheTomeksup Well, if it was correctly placed, you should not have an issue with detaching it ;-)

@@stylesuxx so i dont know what happend

An absolute masterpiece :-)

You mean for the Cam itself, or for Gyroflow? Cam is default, apart from enabling logging and setting to 50fps. Cam settings definitely need tweaking. I think bumping down exposure by two steps and increasing contrast by one step should yield way nicer results. In Gyroflow I went with max smoothness (definitely overkill for most cases - especially with freestyle flying where you will have flips and rolls - but since it was so windy and I wanted to see what max looks like I went with that), max lens correction, dynamic zooming, 25Hz low pass and adjusted gyro bias at the beginning of the flight when I was standing still - this will most likely be different for you. I used 3 auto sync points when initially syncing and added one or two more.

@@stylesuxx really thanks

Yes, I did use the ND filter. I am quite happy with the results too!

Yeah, I think so too. I am not super happy with the image, but the stabilization works really nice after some tweaking. I am no experimenting with the 30fps footage, since it looks so much better image wise, I would really prefer lower frame-rate and higher quality picture. The expepriments actually look quite promising, I hope I can get a nice edit out in the next couple of days...

@@stylesuxx Nice can't wait to see that!

@@stylesuxx yeah the image is really bland and dull. Even in bright sunlight the colours are just not popping.

@@craigjohnstone87 i decreased exposure a bit and used the ND filter (until the glass popped out) it improves the image a bit. The. Some magic in post and it's decent. The Bitrate still is too low for my taste...

Nah, sorry. I suppose you would need to run an old version of BF, since F3 support has been dropped some time ago or go with performance builds with stripped functionality...

@@stylesuxx dose cleanflight support the f3 evo boards still ? What about betaflight for brushed f4 evo as well is that no longer supported & I just have to use cleanflight ?

@@megahertz6787 F4 are still supported. Cleanflight is basically dead for 3 years, so yeah - chances are that the "latest" version still supports it. If you must use brushed, then I would rcommend to go with F4 - it should give you less of a headache...

@@stylesuxx I just wanted to build some brushed toothpicks again & bought an f4 & f3 evo so I can make 2s toothpicks specifically , didn’t realize the firmware could be an issue lol, so your saying that cleanflight is no longer around either ?!

@@megahertz6787 Nah, I don't think that anyone is using Cleanflight at this point at all... It seems you have been out of the game for some time. If you want to get into toothpicks, I'd really recommend going the brushless path. There are also quite cheap BNFs available.

Yeah, if you bend the contacts a bit, you can use the flat tops with no issues. But very interesting that your radio spontaneously started working again after putting the battery in the wrong way around. But it's always good to have a backup I guess ;-)

No sorry. There is a sparkmaker group on facebook, maybe you have more luck there.