@@TheChuDragon Turbulators are devices that enhance heat transfer in heat exchangers by disrupting the flow of fluids or gases. They are a cost-effective and uncomplicated way to improve heat transfer. Turbulators are inserted into the tube side of heat exchangers and work by: Increasing surface area Turbulators increase the surface area in contact with the fluid, which promotes more uniform heat distribution. Disrupting laminar flow Turbulators disrupt laminar flow, which is when the flow of the fluid is smooth and parallel. Pushing gasses toward the tube walls Turbulators enhance heat transfer efficiency. There are several types of turbulators, including: Ball turbulators: Small balls that increase velocity by reducing volume Coiled turbulators: Spiral-shaped devices that generate a wave-like motion to direct fluid energy up and down Twisted tape turbulators: A single, flat metal sheet in a helical shape The amount of turbulence required depends on the desired outcome.

@measureQuick that makes sense. But I think you're missing the point. Now I now turbulators cause turbulence which increase the efficiency of heat transfer. Like stirring a pot or something. The point is most people aren't smart enough to understand that even. Make a small dumbed down explanation for what's happening and why. Using professional lingo is an easy way to alienate people. Thanks for explaining it to me though.

Yes there can be brand new furnaces with 1000pm CO coming out of the exhaust on a 80 percent furnace due to misaligned burners. So it’s very important to check for efficiency and safety.

@@hvacshinobi8047 Accutools had them private labeled by MRU. They were becoming too expensive to service via the manufacturer, especially sensors. Great unit though. I really liked the compact build.

@@972958 yes, we talk about it in the video.

The hoses are the magic for fast deep evacuations. Make sure that you are also doing a decay test to assure that it holds below 500, ideally below 200 to make sure it is dry and tight.

@@horsth9566 you can try nitrogen, but it is likely wet. Replace the dryer, install a moisture indicator and get it to hold below 1000 microns and let the dryer do the rest. Check it in a week or so and verify the system is dry.

@@MoreHeatMoreCool he a a great dog.

@@measureQuick what kind of dog 🐕 is he I want one

@@MoreHeatMoreCool Boston Terrier, called a red. They are usually not breed because they are considered a defect by AKC. You can easily find them though. Males are a lot calmer than the females. Great family dog, easily trained.

@@measureQuick Thank You so very much, just showed my wife the dog and she loves it to.

Utilize the new mQ NCI Quick Test (AirMaxx with TrueFlow) and measure the total flow and static pressure of the system BEFORE you sell the job. That test in mQ takes about 10min and is easily done and clearly communicates and PROVES whether that duct system can actually work.

@@mtnbkrboy7728 it’s about not having to service what you sell during the warranty period because of an improper commissioning. It’s about warranty reduction.

@@jharrison6557 A leak will have almost a constant rate of rise, moisture will eventually level off in the Leak rate will go down to zero

Water will reach a pressure tempature it stops evaporating / boiling. This is why the micron guage stops rising below 2000 µm If there is a leak in the system it will rise to very near atmospheric pressure If we are serving an existing system the refrigerant in the oil will make it look like a leak. It is likely refrigerant boiling off in the compressor and accumulator. Given enough time the pressure may rise to a positive pressure in that case. This is why pressure testing is very important on existing systems. When servicing an existing system It may more than an hour to get a system pulled down to 1000 µm. Don't know if Jim agrees but I will sometimes call it at 1000 µm, I'm well below 1500 µm so I have most likely removed most of the non-condenseables and the constant flow of refrigerant towards the vacuum pump should have removed most of the moisture. If an existing system will fall down to 300 µm or so I will let it ride till it hits a plateau.

It depends on what is going on. That's why it is important to have the tools and technology to get a better scoop on what is actually happening. I.e if you are running a vacuum and going just of a time lapse and not reading microns.... you might have gotten nowhere near those micron levels that you want. But yes, the "triple vacuum" method works and it is a good way to break moisture as it starts to build up. Sometimes you might not needed. It depends on the system type. Over the years I have learned that on a Central System install the way that we do it. We can pull a deep vacuum really fast and holds the decay test. But, same installation practices and vacuum set-up, on a Minisplit system... different story! I hope this helps...