Yep

Yeah, reason I didn’t brace the whole thing is I didn’t want to make the whole lca too strong, if I smack the wheel into something I’d much rather the control arm was able to buckle than directly sending the force into the frame of the car. I figure this is plenty strong but not too strong of you get me Good shout about the app I’ll give that a try!

@@GOTIME-CO Good thinking! Control arm is much cheaper fuse.

Thank you! Back at you

It’s definitely a big difference for not a crazy amount of effort

This one was a short little holiday special hahah sorry, but yes doing one a week and trying to get enough work done aside from the channel to earn a living, it’s a hard balance, hopefully as time goes on the income from regular work and KZbin will balance or yt will overtake and I’ll be more free to take on larger projects with more content involved each week Thank you!

Can extend some for you bro, can do an exchange for some stock ones

Yeppp I’ll hopefully be doing a pre order early next year to get manufacturing under way as soon as possible

Hell yeah man can do

I am very tall hahahaha

This is just a demo I made with the vocals pulled out hahah

Probably in a few weeks time! I’ll try plan it out to cover the most ground but be concise and easy to understand

would love this as-well, every few months or so making a recap vid on what you've learnt, i think would help both the viewers and you. i see it as a win win all around <3 !!!

Put a 4age in it

Hey hey So I’d say if you’re gonna be trying to drift the 4K which can absolutely be done (dm me on Insta I’ve got a vid for you) Then it’s all about removing grip. For starters I’d run a 165 or even 155 in the rear and probably 165 up front to keep it relatively balanced. Put the rear as low as you’re comfortable with and still have enough clearance and stuff as the arms start to lose their ability to articulate at lower heights in these which loosens the rear a lot. Bump your rear dampers to full stiff and then you could even run a bigger sway bar in the rear if you’re going all out. Then for the front; the stuff I’ve been talking about the last few weeks is all still applicable, getting the front end to slide will help a lot too cause most of your drift will be in the deceleration. Last I’d just say please don’t try it on the street as the commitment and speed for drifting a 4K in the dry is super sketch for the road. If you just wanna learn in the wet you really just need a welded diff and you’ll be on your way, no need really to pull all the grip out and probably safer on a 175 or 185 all round.

Here’s the vid! kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoSQiqd6mKqKqNUsi=AP9Ql-JTvOECBrLm

Thanks for your help man

@@GOTIME-CO if u need extended tie rods btw, what i do is cut the oem outers and get a thick walled tube welded over em. i tried aftermarket extended inners, but nothing but problems w these new parts... ball joints give out too quick on them chinaparts

Thanks Joel! Yeah absolutely, I think all this will still work great with a burner on front but still wanted to see how well I could get it to work on a semi cause it’s nice to know the grip is there on turn in and when you hit the brakes

@@GOTIME-CO yeah thats the difference, the confidence on turn in. around 10% of the time you will get wash out and it can go bad if you're not on the wheel haha

Thanks brother, hope it’s been a ripper over the pond ❤️

Thanks Jake ❤️

Thank you bro! So excited and nervous to see how it all works out

holidays babyyy

@@GOTIME-COcan’t wait to see the sled at HWH