It was an INCREDIBLE concert!! Everything I thought it would be! Hopefully you'll see them soon!

Hi Leslie, the RS1.0 runs a standard 1/10th scale 190mm width Touring car body. My RS currently has a "Zoo Racing" touring car body on, but there's a massive selection to choose from! You can see mine here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHfJdp17irhjr68

No problem, just give me a shout if I can help with anything! 😁

There is a bit of a trick to this, to avoid "hot spots" etc 😉

That's a great point actually. I'll pop some Fluro down next and show the different points to help out 😁

For years, I ran down to B&Q and bought the cheapest oil free compressor I could find (some of them were loud, but at £50-£60 you couldn't complain!) and just put an inline water trap on. Did me fine, for years at a time, until the piston rod failed! If noise is a problem, then you need to be a little more careful with selection, but I was always lucky enough to have a converted space where I wasn't annoying anyone.

For the price point, it's unreal! I've tried the "eBay special" cheap brushes before, that were poor, but genuinely very pleased with this. It'll stay hooked up to the compressor 😁

Really impressive bit of kit, for the price point!

A TT02 is great, we raced them at our club for ages and my young lad still does a spec class in them, but you'll love the precision and quality of the Yokomo kit. Massively surprising just how well these go, alongside top line kits! Fire any questions you need to at me! 🙂

I had a paint failure once, but it was Pactra "Fluro base" instead of white. That was a loooooong time ago! Anytime I see it elsewhere, it's poor prep or thick aerosol application.

Ah, I've got used to the screw bags, but Tamiya Etc has us spoiled!! I'm itching to get started, but I'm under pressure to paint a few bodies... Then the race is on to get it running this weekend!

I was hoping to get it a run round last night, but didn't get chance. I'll be there tonight for another go!

@@GingapaintSee you there 👍

I was behaving.... Big sends on Sundays 😉

@@Gingapaint 😉

Hi, the largest club in Northern Ireland is the UMCC, primarily racing on road now. Indoors at Wellington College, Belfast during the winter and outdoors at the Joey Dunlop leisure Centre in Ballymoney. For off road, RCNI has just opened, outside Banbridge catering for both 10th and 8th scale off road on their own specific tracks.

@Gingapaint Awesome. Glad to hear it's still a viable hobby.

​@@captainchaos3053Yeah, numbers have fluctuated, members come and go. We're starting to see old members back now with their own kids too. Second generation racers are Properly quick too!! We've just completed a purpose built off-road venue too, for 8th and 10th scale which we've been missing for a while!

@Gingapaint Sounds like a blast. I haven't really raced for about 30 years. My Mardave mini was a jammy rocket. That is to say I hit the jackpot with a screamer of a motor by pure chance. What is the best entry level for a kid to start with these days?

@@captainchaos3053 honestly, wherever you can race locally! A friendly atmosphere and guys willing to help out a newcomer is more important than the actual class. Something that controls costs is always a bonus too, but honestly it's just wherever you can go home with a smile! I'm just home from a practice night at our local club, and I only ran the car for maybe 6-7 minutes, but had great fun laughing and joking with friends, all of whom I've met from playing with "Toy Cars" 😂

It was one of the very first, a few years back. But appreciate the feedback, hopefully you find the newer videos more helpful.

Any suggestions on how it could improved? I must revisit these older videos and learn from them :)

Lol.... I use Savox in pretty much everything. Rarely have an issue? 1251MGs everywhere 😂

@@Gingapaint I'm sure one day I'll venture back to them, could well be one in my 1/8th 😋

Nothing is fool-proof to a suitably qualified fool! 😂😂

Not so much a name, but I call it plenty, when it goes off and I'm not expecting it 😂😂 I maintain it's a great hobby for youngsters. So many skills to learn, and I'm still hanging out with friends I made through it, 30 years ago 😉

Slowly! Lol! It's hung up on my wall, looking splendid!

Thanks for Viewing! 😁

Thank you!! Chuffed to bits with it. I'll get some proper paint on it and replace the rusty hardware soon!

Absolutely not..... This will see a few, steady runs. The SO2.0 however, FULL SEND on Friday 😁

@@Gingapaint 🤣 I'm coming to play 🏎️💨

@@chrisb_rc I'll be there. I might chuck the Pred in the boot, I'm sure Andy will want a nosey 😉

I used to run an older version along with a few local guys. One of the younger lads, I kinda took under my wing and helped out as much as I could. Fast forward 20 years, we're good mates but he stopped racing and I was TC racing. I messaged him about my old XK98, and he said he had this in a box. We struck a deal and the rest is history. Except he's dug all the old stuff out of the garage and is coming racing again this weekend! 😁

A small hurricane.... Lol. When I need coverage and a lot of paint flow, it's pretty high pressure. If I'm honest, I don't look at the gauge anymore and do it all with "feel". I've a pressure regulator just to my left, that I can adjust on the fly, and will adjust on the fly. I find the higher pressure to work best with water based paints, just they can't be reduced as much as the older (Pactra) paints, and won't atomise at lower pressures :)

Cheers fella! I'll chat to you on Saturday about it :)

Hi, I had an RS200 body for my M05, but never ran it! I painted it up in Pat Dorans' Q8 Oils colours and just kept it on display (I love a bit of old Group B) it was low, which would help, but a fairly heavy lexan and very little room in the arches to play with track width etc. it looks fantastic, though. I ended up running a Protoform Europa M, or a Bitty Hibera M most of the time. The Ride BRZ is usually the go-to M chassis body at our club.

I remember the XRay club racer. Looked like a great bit of kit, but never saw too many of them. But then, it wasn't so much cheaper than the race kits. However now, the price of race kits is so much more. The RS1.0 is less than 1/3rd the price of the BD12!!

The mount for the shark fin can get in the way, especially with the included pinion gear. I use a lightweight steel one that allows you to mount it past the mount. I'll check what size I ended up running in Blinky. I suspect that a smaller spur will allow you to mount the motor further forward and avoid the issue. I'll have a look next I have it in my hand!

Hi, unfortunately we run on different layouts every meeting indoors, so they'll be irrelevant to compare. I was definitely closer to the overall pace with the BD11, but the RS1.0 wasn't far away at all, considering the price point!

@@Gingapaint do you mean you never take both cars out on the same day?

another question : are the spare parts compatible, i.e if you buy the RS1 can you gradually upgrade to BD11 spec?

@@space_cowboy007 naw, we get such a track evolution through the day, and very little practice time that it just wouldn't be worth it.

​@@space_cowboy007some parts carry over, but not them all. Front hubs and castor blocks are the same. Some steering components and some transmission bits. Interestingly, the diffs are different, I tried to fit a BD11 spool, but the RS has a slightly smaller diameter diff pulley.

I've not thought about popping the toe-in gauge on the back, but Im pretty sure it's 3°. It uses the older BD8/9 rear hubs and a moulded version of the suspension mounts, so I'd be very surprised if there wasn't an option to reduce toe-in, in the back catalogue. On track, I didn't feel like it needed to be reduced, but every track is different.

@@Gingapaint maybe i need to reassemble the arms but mine seems to have quite a bit of toe, i’ll look into it, this is my first “competition” type car/kit and so far it’s great. can’t wait to run it, thanks for the response!

@@xKINGxZERx I'm now curious.... I'll pop mine on the setup gauges before the weekend and have a look, but 3° is pretty normal. Does look a bit strange if you're not used to it, after Tamiya TT02s etc have 0° as standard.

@@Gingapaint maybe i’m just not used to it, we’ll see how it does on the track, appreciate your input!

Hi, there's no specific kit that I've seen yet, but I had a bit of a play about with older available bits and pieces. It's outlined, with the required parts in this video I did a while back. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6CsdqWKg55kfLc Hope that helps! Any questions, pop here or you can always get me on the GingaPaint FB page.

My BD11 is definitely a more focussed race car, but the RS1.0 is definitely more forgiving on track. The big thing is though, that someone new to the class, or racing on a budget can buy a new car for £200 and its pretty close to the pace. Still, love my BD11 too!

Running Blinky, it doesn't really matter, but aye, I'll pop it on. We've 2 weeks, you know! 😂

@@Gingapaint Too far away 😭

@chrisb_rc Modeltune Raceway on Tuesday nights for TT02 😉

@@Gingapaint Im doing the mental maths 😂

@@chrisb_rc naw mate. Man Maths. We can justify anything 😂

Hi James. I use body Prep from RCS Graphix Worx/RCidentity. rcidentity.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_74&product_id=97 . Select "Body Prep" from the drop down box. Hope that helps!

Hi Darren, car was excellent With them. I ran in our competitive 17.5T blinky class, qualifying and finishing 3rd in the A Final. Was really easy to push with the car against some much more expensive competition, beating current XRays and a BD12 all driven by competitive drivers. I Upped shock fluid to 55wt front, 50wt rear and dropped the rear diff fluid to 2k (all associated oils) I placed a 1mm shim under the outer rear top link as well. The car ended up really forgiving in the end, and capable of properly impressive Pace.

@@Gingapaint sounds like you have it somewhat figured out. I have 4 of these cars and am racing a very amateur indoor series with 2 VTA versions and 2 touring versions. The cars do ok but on our very small courses they do tend to roll. I'm ordering these parts up and hopefully will have it figured out by Tuesday!

@@supermotobeard check droop as well, kit standard is probably too much for carpet racing. I ended up with 3mm rear and 2mm front. That should help prevent too much body roll hopefully! I'll work out a proper set up sheet at some point!

@@Gingapaint where are you measuring droop?

@@supermotobeard wheels off, pop the car on droop blocks and measure the bottom of the hub. From the surface. Basically how much the arm drops from level.

Hi Andrew, I'm using mostly Proline paint at the moment. Colour range and durability are great!

The mask is too thick for an airbrush, you need to scale up to a full size spray gun with a generous nozzle. I'm using a cheap Sealey gun with a 1.7mm nozzle (an airbrush is usually 0.3 or 0.5mm) Hope that helps!

​@@Gingapaintthanks mate that helps. May I ask what liquid mask you are using?

@@NaughtyGoatFarm I usually just use what's in stock at my local model shop ( wwww.modeltune.com) which is typically Bitty Design or Klinik. I also really like RCS mask when I can get it. They all have slightly different qualities and quirks. Saying that it doesn't take long to adjust and I've used all of them with success.

Sorry, I don't understand what you mean? 🤨

You can run a standard size servo in the car (the promotional photos show a standard size servo) I just run a low profile one most of the time!

Happy days!! Enjoy! 😁

Hi, it's the same transmission as the BD11/BD12 with the exception of a front diff instead of a spool. You'll want to build the diffs with a suitable silicone oil, instead of the supplied black grease, but there will be no issue with handling the power. Out of the box, I've only replaced the plastic servo horn with an aluminium one and used silicone oil as above in the diffs. I'll be putting a front spool in the car for next meeting, but it's not essential at all.

@@Gingapaint thanks for info..👍🏻😀

I've to get a run out with the Mod BD11 at some point. Fancy a rattle with the RS01 in Blinky? I want to make sure the changes sort it this weekend, but after that I can't run 2 classes plus Joey.

It was bolted to the battery strap, I could move it with my hand, so didn't even expect it to be as stable as it was. Even packing out the battery strap would help. Wondering would an "X" between the bodyposts offer a better solution. I'll keep trying a few things. Tempted to simply tape it to the top of the body at UMCC this weekend.