I use router with V bit so when bent, grooves are closed like mitres! And urethane them for stability…

Nice!!!

This is so helpful! And above comment on packing out flush nosings. I don't suppose you will do a video on how to join/trim/line up the risers to the nosing and next step? 😊

This is one of the best ideas I have seen for tread! Excellent video and super appreciate the "fails" or learning part of it too!

Thank you! Great video.

How can u do that with laminate flooring

Looks awesome!

Gonna do that too, my girls power wheels. I still don't understand why they don't make traction for those tires for as long as they've manufactured them. I had a big foot wash truck back when I was little in the early 90s and they had plastic wheels back then even..

It helps me a lot men 👍

Genius!

You want the post plumb .... not level

who makes that nifty hardware ?

Parfait👌

Dado blade throat plate, exactly the infoI was looking for! Thank you!

If you installing a fan in a bathroom that didn't have a fan is it the same process. Buy the exhaust fan than install this vent..

Love the tutorial, simple to the point and I'm not dizzy.

Thanks for the video. Got 14 steps bent and ready for install on cork backed LVP. Just trying to decide if I need to fill the top dado curvature to add stiffness to the the edge. My stair boards horizontal board are router bull nose edge and I made the nose square like yours. I know the square shape shape face should be fine because the short vertical web will provide rigid strengh. Just wondering if the radius curvature will break with stair traffic if the dado is not filled? If the dado gap is filled, use construction adhesive or just silicone?

Killer video man!!

Can this be done with Spc floors?

Thank you so much for this! I was turned away from a bunch of "professionals" stating what I was asking for was not possible, or quoted me the "go away price" This video definitely gave me the confidence to pull it off. The only tweak I made was instead of a table saw/Dado, I used a laminate trimmer/router with a fence on it set to the correct distances to cut the two grooves, and I used a 90degreee V-Groove bit, so the giant wood jig was unnecessary, it created a perfect 45 degree edge on each side of the bend area so there is zero void or thin spot where the bend occurs. Unlike a dado, since the cut is angled, only a very small amount is cut to the full depth (right up to the wear layer). I got perfectly sharp corners/tight radius with a nice square face and consistent. The only advice for my future self and anyone reading this is try to pick a flooring LVP has has planks available longer than 24". I spent the most time on this job because my stair treads are wider than that, and that was the longest available planks that my flooring came in.

my cut is only 1/4" so before i cut i wanted to check if i use both saw blades or one saw blade and one chipper. i dont have the shims but a 2 stack is fine ill see if both saw blades have enough clearance against each other.

so you just eyeball the relative rotation of the stack teeth?

I had a similar issue. But my client had an open staircase, so she wanted them wrapped all around .

Can you say helmet?

Did you install any support under the nosing portion or did you replace the treads? I have flush treads at the moment.

Chris, I’m working with a really thick lvp, Cali Longboard. It’s 22mm thick. I’ve practiced on a couple scrap pieces but I crack the nose every time. I’m not sure if I’m not dadoing enough material off, not getting the material hot enough, or a combination of the 2. Any advice?

Can you step on it without breaking it? I often have house guests step on our regular vent grates, and I've had some of the decorative plastic grates break. This looks like it's made out of plastic as well. My floor vent is in between the toilet and the wall (i.e., right where you might step if you're getting in the shower). Thoughts? Thanks!

Killed it. I designed something like this only wanted rounded stair nosing so i used a 1 1/2" dowel instead of the 2x4 and didn't dado because the bend was perfect

Did you glue the tile insert?

I purchased a nose from a manufacturer to see how they made it. Not only did they dado the backing from the nose section of the plank, they routed two v-grooves further into it. With a little heat, it bent easily and had a super sharp radius of just under 1/8".

I absolutely love that song

Great video. You indicated that the first dado line is at 1 1/8". The second one you add 1.5" to that. Wouldn't that be 2 5/8"? But you say to set the fence at 2 3/8" for the second dado. Just a little confused. Thanks.

Adults should try Crazy carts XL they are Alot of fun

Another interesting concept is that if you have a piece of wood that has equal depth & height, then a bevel and mitre are the same? 🤔

I would actually say that when you do a bevel cut, you need to rotate the blade around the Z axis and not the X axis. You then cut into the Z axis, at an angle. I would say the wood is being clamped along the X axis? What I can’t quite get my head around, is how a bevelled mitre works? Is a bevelled mitre another name for a compound cut? 😊

that actually looks great my friend i just learned something amazing no more ordering stair noses that dont even match your flooring , thatnks for the video great , 👍

dude you’re jacked!

what kind of glue do you use for this project? I tried LePage PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive, it doesn't work for the rubber underlayment .

once you've angled the tip you'll always need to check the tubes orientation before and during caulking....... I think 90 degrees is best!

I have seen similar, but they used adhesive in the dado before install. Have you had issues with the radius widening use/ time?

Did you pieces come out slightly bowed? I did two so far that are 43" long and they both came out with a slight crown. Fortunately the crown is up and so I'm hoping the adhesive & wood nosing on the step will help keep it held down in the middle once installed.

I have been trying to do this with NuCore, that other seem to have success with, but for me the "stone" core doesn't want to flex no matter how much I heat, this dado might just be the solution

I peel the whole backing where I will bend. Do you think that will work? I measured sliced with a blade heated a bit and completely peeled about a 3”section off. What are your thoughts? Thank you and great video.

This is the absolute best DIY video I've seen for making the stair nose and I've watched several. I only wish I knew what temp your heat gun was on. I even like the jig you created. Everything was so helpful.

How are you reinforcing the nosing to support weight? I recently bother a home where they cut corners like this and they split on the curve due to the loss of integrity... This is now apart of a litigation suit! I do not recommend doing his

The problem is that you dont have a clutch , and that is going to destroy the gearboxes pretty fast, you should probably mention it in your video ...

Hi Chris, What's the thickness of you LPT vinyl plank please? Great tips , that`s exactly what I want to do with my stair case, just want to know if 6.5mm will be enough or need to go with 8mm. Thanks

Genius! Thanks for sharing your extended "learning" time. :-)

Great video! Question though: if vinyl floor at the top of the stairs is floating, but nosing is glued, how do you connect both? wouldn't the seam crack? or is there a special way to connect both?

Does that jeep have a motor on one wheel or two wheels?