It is the DMM Ceros

Doubtful, but as I may or may not have stated I 1 don’t have the most experience with the safeguard and 2 d not think they are appropriate for our use. I’ll try to make another video on that topic when time allows between work, hunting and life.

Are you asking if you are hooked into your tether directly with a Prusik hitch? You can if you want, form my experience it is not necessary however.

I’ve been making the and selling on my shop. Huntlyte.com I’m using a Tegris backer 1” spacing on whatever backer material with 1.5” mark on the elastic leaves enough of a loop for 20 and 12g. I should have more on the site by Thursday; I am currently in Booth prep mode for total archery challenge.

I was told the same thing, by mad rock. It's the context of use. If you read the instructions the way we are using it, positioning on fixed line and rappelling, are not discussed. It is common practice, to tie off an ABBD when positioning or ascending/rappelling a fixed line. I personally do not use a Safeguard nor do I recommend them, I prefer to use a GriGri.

There was another guy who had talked with Mad Rock and said they claimed that the rope on the break side must move so that the cam can engage and the load in the device applies to the correct spot, otherwise you risk damaging or breaking the device. By looking at the Mad Rock Safeguard instruction manual drawings it should be clear that under regular use, the cam pinches the rope and the axis on the cam will hold your weight. What Mad Rock seems to be concerned about is a situation where you load the rope from the break side without allowing the cam to move. This could cause the load to be applied on the smaller axis that is on the nose of the device or on the side plate, which probably has not been rated as that is considered improper use, see for example this case where the side plate of the GriGri will be ripped completely off on a cross loaded carabiner with a stopper not on the break strand to prevent slipping: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lV66dGSgjq2rjK8si=8exRsrHflUgAro3V&t=362 they also break a Beal Birdie similar way at 11:50, the plate took off at around 12kN instead of the 7kN for GriGri so the value for Safeguard can be anything. From the manual we can conclude the following: If you want to replace your hand on the breaking strand, it must be done in such a way that A, the method does not enter in the device and B, the method allows for slippage of the breaking strand under proper load while the cam is open (your body weight). That is, you are allowed to add friction on the breaking strand but it should not be able to hold you in place when you open the cam. This could make something like a couple turn Autoblock made from a short accessory cord a perfect friction hitch to use as it easily slips. Obviously, if you have very little slack and the stopper knot is right near the device it should be ok enough as you will only generate a force of 1-2kN, but in case of a serious fall there is a risk of prying the device off the rope, thus it is not something the manufacturer can recommend.

It should be backed up above the belay if the belay should fail it will slide down to the prusic and release the prusic and hold it released all the way to the to the end of rope. Must follow the recommendations of the device.

Yes. I haven’t used the plus I’m a saddle hunting situation only while rock guiding; with that I’m not 100% sure as to what setting is going to be best for one sticking (lead or top rope). I’d recommend finding a hill, tying your rope to a tree, and testing how it feeds in both positions to see what works best for you.

@@thefullaj would it be better to do the bite or have an auto block, since there will be some slack in the system? With the bite it would probably put a lot more stress on the GriGri in a fall.

What kind of rope are you using, dynamic or static? I’m running a a grigri 2 with a dynamic rope and tie a bite knot. I’m reading more studies that are mountain rescue related that confirm my thoughts on high tenacity static lines. With that I don’t recommend one sticking with a static line. If you are using a dynamic line tie the bite knot as an auto block or any friction hitch has the ability to jam into the device if there is a fall.

@kyledobson1607 feel free to reach out on Instagram if you need more guidance @the_full_aj I can provide you with the information I have and resources for you to research more.

I intentionally pulled a large bite knot for demonstration. Pull less of a bite and it’s not in the way.

Sounds like you are carrying the things I keep forgetting, haha. I've yet to drop my release, when it happens I'll start carrying a second, not if but when ha. That is sterling nano 8.9mm Xeros rope. I carry it; huntlyte.com/shop/p/sterling-nano-89mm-xeros-rope-by-the-foot Double check that the gri gri + takes is if not I also carry the IonR 9.4mm. total plug for my shop.

Ouch, extremely lucky indeed 10-12 feet can break stuff. Glad the video was helpful.

Bungee is a great idea. I’ve been tying the base of it around the tree and using it as a “preset” this season.

Tether and lineman’s belt length depends on the max size trees in your area you’ll be hunting out of. I use a “full length” rappel rope (23’) that allows for the knots, going around the tree giving me like 18ish feet of hunting height, again depending on the tree. I hunt in the mountains and try to be on the up hill so I’m shooting down…key word being try, ha.

So to be redundant if you want to back up the device on your tether you can clip into the pre attached friction hitches (check to make sure the are attached correctly). Here is where we get into the weeds. I personally don’t think that if your hanging on your tether not using it to climb, that a single hitch or device is adequate; it’s once we start climbing or lowering/rappelling that we need to be more aware of the system and adding redundancy. I know that’s a bit vague but it’s nuanced and challenging to explain via a comment.

@thefullaj4034 So I'm literally using 3-4 sticks with a three step aider on the first stick only. No climbing with the ropes at all. I'm just hanging around and waiting for that buck to roll through. Thank you very much for your insight. I feel much better and safer about my setup.

Ha, I’m not the most familiar with more of the arborist hitches, room for improvement. As I continue to learn and practice with spliced eye hitch cords I still find sewn or tied loops to be a bit simpler, that speaks to experience or lack there of. As long as it works and is redundant the world is our oyster, that’s what I love about saddle hunting.

Primarily drag. For the area I want to do the overnight in, I’ve staged 300ft of rope at the top of the cliff and a hand cart at the bottom. Drag, tan dim rappel with deer, then hand cart it out… all theory at the moment. Great sign out they last night, fingers crossed.

The alpine butterfly is not as easy to teach as a quick bite knot, the amount of loading isn’t significant enough to justify spending the “extra time” to tie the Alpine butterfly, but you are correct. As for the the friction hitch on the break strand tending, I’m not sure I follow what you’re saying, if you post a video to see that would be helpful.

Yes and know in response to the autoblock, it's similar to the prusik as in its a bidirectional friction hitch; the prusik wraps "into itself" around the rope whereas the autoblock wraps up or down the rope not going into itself.

You’re welcome. I’m glad I could help.

You're welcome, there are many ways to do it. As long as we are backing it up or being redundant in our system we can add a degree of safety vs not.

Might want to look at that gear again. last time I checked a triple action locking binder is more than adequate but hey, I'm just a mountain guide so what to I Know? Hope you have good and safe season.

@@thefullaj I have no patience quit watching. You’re way more qualified about gear. I’m whitetail bow hunter so for me it’s redundancy and no metal. Tuff enuf getting close to bedding and with metal clang ya got no chance. Best to you and yours

@@doncook3584 Understand that, This was my first video attempt at helping people with redundancy in a system, definitely didn't silence my stuff for this. I learned that lesson the hard way, everything is silent now. Hope you have a great season.

I appreciate it! The Iron Council is an amazing group of men to be a part of.

I typically tie a hard blocking knot. It’s second nature from my climbing time.

I know I’ve said it before, but I really appreciate you posting these videos! Most of the saddle hunting KZbinrs don’t have a background in climbing like you and just use the madrock without any backup. I probably would have too if I hadn’t come across your videos.

@@jackgibson7151 that’s what motivated me to start creating the videos. I hope to be more consistent with them as I develop my video training program

Absolutely, just remember practice on the ground until you’re comfortable and sure whatever system you use is secure, then practice more.

Not sure, loving the stock though. That should be a quick google or ChatGPT search on the gen 2 and 3.

That is a 20” I bought a Carlson this year and it’s way better than all the chokes arhat came with it. I patterned out to 40yds with 5,6,7 tss

Are you suggesting a clove hitch on the brake strand of the gri gri? You could do that but I would still recommend a different carabiner not the one you’re device is loaded into. Don’t open the carabiner you’re hanging from while you’re hanging from it.

If it’s tight against the device you have to “ascend” the rope enough to give slack (3-4”) to then untie the knot.

@@thefullaj Thanks so much great tip!

I want to say it was the Remington one; I just checked and I don't have the instructions and the extra adapters are labeled.

Did you confirm this takes Remington stocks?

If I’m using a gri gri or other assisted belay device I do not use a back up; as letting go of the lever engages the cam and the angle of my hand on the break strand is the back up. If I need to stop and go hands free I tie and overhand on a bight on the brake strand.

Ain't that the beauty of firearms (for the moment) is we can all appreciate them as we want. Stick on sights, I will agree not my favorite. CZ doesn't make buying after market parts easy so work with what I got or can afford.