Thanks to your help Ive kept a customers 86' 720 on the road

Why did you do the repair... mines is boiling out of the reservoir and the engine is not hot hasn't run in a year

Should change the secondary foam filter along with the paper filter. Most video's do not show how.

Can I use the factory original bolts ?

Be sure you check the foam pre filter on these trucks also.

Thanks for the video my mans

you dump the filter without cleaning the airbox first. you savage.

How did you get the return line pff?

Traducirlo a Español

Didn't realize there was a specialty tool lol. just did it the other day

I have a code on my truck says P is in Paul is an apple 0093. Tell me what I need to do.

this looks ugly

Can you re use that crimp to connect the two cables or do you need a new one? 🇦🇺

So any tips on removing the combustion washer if it's down in there?

Great video man. Keep up the good work

I had same issue low oil pressher light so replaced sensor still then did pump still oil light now timming so I think I'm on to a fix for this man

Quick question since it caused advanced timing why not just back timming down turning distributer till you timing light read then tighten screws on the slider part of distributer the reason I ask I replace my oil pump also and I noticed my timing is way off couldn't I just avoid taking the oil pump back off and I just adjust the timing on the screws on the distributor or do I need to take the whole oil pump down and redo it thanks for any advice you may have saved me so much cash and stress I already failed so many times finally a smog friend said your timming is 22 I said no way so I thank you for your video not to mention the first smog guy stuffed paper. Wad in my timing advice so on top of getting banboosed I'm trying to sort it all out on top of sabatoch thanks again

Thank You very Much.

Where Can I get some for my 1983 Nissan 720.

Was this on stock setup?

Damm clean that thing

excellent

Where do I get those headlights?

Chode exhaust 😂 sounds good tho man.

Porque no haces un video donde expliques paso por paso como las conectaste desde el mando del tablero

I see a whole bunch of cussing and slinging tools if it was me lol.

I think I screwed up pretty good but need to know if there is a way to recover without too much hassle or disassembly. I did it right the first time I changed my filters, but did not cycle my key and bleed the air out the second time I did this...I totally forgot about it. You know what its doing....just turning over fast. I assume I got air in the HP side. What can I do to bleed it now that I screwed up? HELP!!!

Wait a minute, only 7600 miles and that ccv filter is that bad. My 2011 that I purchased new has 112.450 miles on it with the factory ccv which I forgot to change at the recommended mileage and it doesn't blow the cap out of my hand and it smokes a tiny tiny tiny bit when the cap is off. I am changing it today but I can't get over with such low miles on that truck and that ccv is that bad, gee moe Nelly man!

Great video. Just what I was looking for. I have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L with a similar oil pump. It was an elderly couple's for 20 years. I don't think they used it much. Low miles, 6,000 a year average, and likely wasn't driven hard ever. I think they let oil sit in it and maybe their mechanic put snake oil in it as a sales pitch. There was gummy honey-colored stuff on the refill cap. Something is causing this Pathfinder to knock at startup for 3-4 seconds and then between 1,800 and 3,300 RPM. If coasting between 1800 and 3300, it ceases. I think I caught rod bearing wear early and I replaced them. And checked the mains. Mains were good. Two rods had mild wear. No slack or slope in anything. Metal flakes stopped appearing. But still the knock between those RPM. It runs perfectly, otherwise. And the body and interior is like new. So it's a nice one I'd like to keep long-term. What do you think about this idea? If the oil isn't changed well can the valve system in the pump stick or malfunction and cause oil pressure to be insufficient? The pressure is 100% consistently poor at startup for 3 seconds and under load between 1800 to 3300 RPM. Makes no sense, this loss of pressure at fixed time, other than faulty pump. I know there is also a pan gasket leak at the front and back. I thinned the oil as an experiment to see if pressure/noise changed and oil began quickly dripping from both ends of the oil pan when it was at warm idle. I thinned the oil 50% with motor flush, which is basically kerosene. I drained out two quarts and put in 2 quarts cleaner. So I have to pull the pan anyways to fix those leaks, so might as well pull inspect and replace the pump as well. Also have to check timing as well and swap all those parts as their age is unknown. The pressure problem was present before the leaks were noted. So the big leaks are new and the problem is the exact same. Do you know of a good oil pump replacement video of my motor or very similar? I found a timing kit one, but no oil pump.

Lol just like that, as if ur not like please come out in the back of ur mind, great lil tip tho

Would a hose clamp do the same thing

My truck is a 2019 F250 6.7 has the oil leak underneath , but it doesn't have oil cap pressure, it has 56, 358 miles, could it be caused by the clogged ccv filter?

Good tips on tightening the filter properly. I had air get in when I didn’t cycle the ignition and got an engine light, low fuel pressure and reduced power mode 100 miles from home. I bled that for an hour and kept getting foamy fuel. I finally removed and reconnected the fuel filter and it worked. Next time I will watch the entire video. Lesson learned the hard way.

I just had mine CCV filter replaced, how long should I expect the oil to leak after changing?

That tip looks so stupid

Sounds like a 7.3 idi almost

How do I connect coil wires on napz motor

If air were to get in the fuel lines is this how you would also bleed them by just turning the key for 20 seconds 6-10 times? Jw I’m having an electrical issue. Changed the fuel filters and did this but didn’t realize they weren’t priming. Started it up and drove about 10 miles when fuel pressure warning light came on then went to limp mode. Hoping this is all i need to do.

My thermostat housing is rusted on any thought of how to break the 3 bolts free without breaking the bolts?

Can you send me a link for them please

Do you need to drain the engine oil first?

I don't have to cut the cable now.Thanks.

Good video. The problem I had was not tightening the bottom filter housing enough. You covered that at about 16:00. The most important step in the whole process. Thank you.

Any trick?? Primary or secondary filter first???

Good video . Sp tools actually makes it for snap on .

what headlights are those and where can i buy them

Love these truck, however prefered regular cab trucks much better.

Mine broke 😂, guess I’ll run and get a new set from the dealer.

There it is!

Great. Thanks for the video