Nissan 720 oil pump replacement

[@cerwin21]

Thanks to your help Ive kept a customers 86' 720 on the road

[@1luxuryliner440]

Quick question since it caused advanced timing why not just back timming down turning distributer till you timing light read then tighten screws on the slider part of distributer the reason I ask I replace my oil pump also and I noticed my timing is way off couldn't I just avoid taking the oil pump back off and I just adjust the timing on the screws on the distributor or do I need to take the whole oil pump down and redo it thanks for any advice you may have saved me so much cash and stress I already failed so many times finally a smog friend said your timming is 22 I said no way so I thank you for your video not to mention the first smog guy stuffed paper. Wad in my timing advice so on top of getting banboosed I'm trying to sort it all out on top of sabatoch thanks again

[@1luxuryliner440]

I had same issue low oil pressher light so replaced sensor still then did pump still oil light now timming so I think I'm on to a fix for this man

[@williambrass6936]

Can I use the factory original bolts ?

[@thesetruths1404]

Great video. Just what I was looking for. I have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L with a similar oil pump. It was an elderly couple's for 20 years. I don't think they used it much. Low miles, 6,000 a year average, and likely wasn't driven hard ever. I think they let oil sit in it and maybe their mechanic put snake oil in it as a sales pitch. There was gummy honey-colored stuff on the refill cap. Something is causing this Pathfinder to knock at startup for 3-4 seconds and then between 1,800 and 3,300 RPM. If coasting between 1800 and 3300, it ceases. I think I caught rod bearing wear early and I replaced them. And checked the mains. Mains were good. Two rods had mild wear. No slack or slope in anything. Metal flakes stopped appearing. But still the knock between those RPM. It runs perfectly, otherwise. And the body and interior is like new. So it's a nice one I'd like to keep long-term. What do you think about this idea? If the oil isn't changed well can the valve system in the pump stick or malfunction and cause oil pressure to be insufficient? The pressure is 100% consistently poor at startup for 3 seconds and under load between 1800 to 3300 RPM. Makes no sense, this loss of pressure at fixed time, other than faulty pump. I know there is also a pan gasket leak at the front and back. I thinned the oil as an experiment to see if pressure/noise changed and oil began quickly dripping from both ends of the oil pan when it was at warm idle. I thinned the oil 50% with motor flush, which is basically kerosene. I drained out two quarts and put in 2 quarts cleaner. So I have to pull the pan anyways to fix those leaks, so might as well pull inspect and replace the pump as well. Also have to check timing as well and swap all those parts as their age is unknown. The pressure problem was present before the leaks were noted. So the big leaks are new and the problem is the exact same. Do you know of a good oil pump replacement video of my motor or very similar? I found a timing kit one, but no oil pump.

[@dwayneoxford9719]

Hmm, Thinking on securing dist. rotor before removing pump, using light impact back and forth and procuring socket head bolts.What dia. and thread? APPRECIATE video and bolt lengths, mine's auto trans., got to get cooler lines out of way. I inst. tee and manual gauge when I got the truck, mine's doing same as yours was. Pressure good one day, low next day. Woulda never knew with just the light. Was gonna just replace regulator assy, not seeing it available anymore.

[@chriswhitney5092]

A manual gauge would be a great test. A month after this oil pump replacement the Concern started again. I Started the engine up went to 20psi and dropped to 8-9psi. When reving stayed the same. I took the engine apart and inspected it. found all the bearings where Severely worn. I ended up rebuilding the engine and has since be ok. It has 12k miles on the rebuild since this February

[@dwayneoxford9719]

@@chriswhitney5092 hoping mine ain't got deep trouble, we'll see. Did research, got 2 of these coming, one for other truck. www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5541207&cc=1210857&jsn=1 They're higher volume, bout 1/4" longer, gotta get longer bolts. You still got the orig's? Know they're 8MM, need to know the thread.

[@tilecuter]

Do you need to drain the engine oil first?

[@chriswhitney5092]

The engine oil doesn’t have to be drained for oil pump removal and install. How ever A catch pan is needed. Once the bump starts to come out oil will drain from it.