As soon as the gap is widened or the bar is bent just bin it and get another one it’s not worth the hassle of how they don’t cut right it slows the jobs down to much

So i took the engine shroud off on my other old flathead i don't have that one anymore i gave it away but took that off to watch how its flywheel kept chewing through the starter gear teeth and seen the problem was the flywheel teeth

One replacement carburetor for my engine similar to that one had that problem and its the little square tap on it the piece you was saying that can get warped So on my new carb of that piece i worked left to right over an over to make it more looser like the old piece I could simply cut that stopper piece off of it the engine while running the vibration smoothens that problem out of that piece getting stuck Then i did have a spare carburetor but i rebuilt it with new insides so i couldn't use nothing off it but sense the piston rings are messed up on it i have been using other parts off the old engine for my other engine and after putting the used coil on i noticed the starter gear making a sound i think the starter is still fine but the little spring under the gear is wearing out finally im just gonna keep using it til it breaks because i have other starters for it and am not planning on replacing parts on the starter because i don't have the right tool to push out the pin that holds the gear on i done it before though. But before my other flathead briggs flywheel teeth just kept chewing up the starter gear teeth it did metal gear teeth and the plastic gear teeth on the starter an it was the right size ones for that ones flywheel so i kept thinking it had to of originally had a pull cord starter and someone switched the flywheel and thats why it kept chewing those up plus on that flatheads flywheel teeth length were to short that was another reason why it was chewing through starter gears because if the flywheel teeth were longer that wouldn't have happened

Hey Dony, have you got anymore videos on the Powermore engine?

Hi, can it happen on a new carburetor that is not cleaned up?

What if you add one more turn/coil to the spring adding extra return force to it. Would that fix it?

I have 2 sets of skinny wrenches metric and standard for places like that. Good advice though

Good instructional method. Thanks a lot. Have one of those myself now and this was a great help.

Great video Donald 👍

Can i ask something sir?. If we first start chain saw, ground start or other, is the brake must on or release before we started?. Because there a moment high rpm when chainsaw running until we press knob rpm…, can you explain sir where is the best we must do?

MotoMix is super-expensive! Is it even worth it? I've been running Stihl 50:1 with Shell V-Power for years with no issues... But now all Shell gas now has ethanol here in Ontario, Canada.

That blue with silver hit to make flat on terminal what is it called?😊

Runs really great on straight gas for a little while until the motor is destroyed. Then throw away your investment. Or turn it into an expensive tomato stake 😂.

Donny your a life saver, just one question the engine only has 120 hrs is that normal?

Mine was leaking so i replaced it with a genuine sthil cap, but it still leaks, dont understand why

At time stamp 5:02 in the video, I would have put the gas line back on the carb and flushed clean gas through before reinstalling the float valve.

One thing I never hear people talk about on these kinds of videos is if you don’t use good Eye protection you can really get your eyes burned from the welding glare. It is a must to have a good lens and to not have a leak in the sheilds where the lenses connect into the shield. If you ever get burned eyes you will know what I’m talking about but just imagine sand in your eyes. And it doesn’t go away for hours. I went through this years ago and trust me it does not feel good. If it ever happens to you you will never forget it.

THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO

Any way to bypass all the stupid safety features on this mower?

Wow. Thanks for this video! My next power tools will all be Husky from now on.

Thanks Dony! Once again, you've saved my day 🙂

Interestingly, the spark arrestors are the cleanest parts on my mufflers. Of course, I actually do run my stuff at full power enough to help keep it from being an issue. I probably should clean the mufflers and deflector plates, though.

Working on a buddied d100 with what looks like the same motor and carb. It wont start, just keeps cranking. Ive had the carb off and cleaned 3 times, still wont start. Even when using little bursts of starting fluid, it wont run n sounds like a bunch of little back fires. Any ideas? Or videos you have about this you can point me to?

Interesting, thank you for posting! I find it interesting that my lawnmower (10years), never had any carburetor/fuel/filter issues, wonder why that is?

We have installed a new coil gapped it proper disconnect the small wire that goes to the switch , replaced the spark plug , still no spark , I would say that’s impossible, I have repaired many small engines, this one has me puzzled

Excellent diagnostic... I thought it was the linkage too. 😉 Yeah, a light sanding at the base of the choke shaft should do it, but best not to risk a return on the repair ! 😊👍

Also, a lot of tank mounted shut off valves have a built in screen in them also. There is a tiny cover that unscrews to reveal it.

Thanks a lot brother have a blessed day 🙏

I’m running exmark. What is your opinion on after market blades and belts. The price difference is unbelievable.

If I'm given a piece of gas-powered equipment I always look first to see if there's a place to add engine oil. If I don't see one it's probably a two-stroke :)

Thank you Sir.

Donnie,do you have any videos on huskavarna weed eater carb hi/ lo adjustments? Thank you

Awesome video! Ive been doing this the hard way too long, Thank you.

Excellent video, thanks for sharing. Cheers

Good to know, thanks

Just make sure you're holding the plastic handle when crossing the solenoid;

Dony, you would think that a spring would also attach to it!

You did an old video about how 2 cylinder Briggs were shipped with the choke cable inadequately adjusted so it wouldn't close all the way, causing users to have to crank a cold engine a lot longer than they should. I had that problem on my Husqvarna YT 4000.

Donny, great video. I had this very problem, and fixed it with your help, but now it's starting up cold, but when I stop to empty the bag it won't start again. Have any tips?

Whoa@ good as new!!!

I bought a Snapper RER with an Intek for a friend. This might come in handy. Thanks

Dude! Thank you! I was beyond frustrated trying to figure out what why my cub cadet xt1 42 was dying. I figured it was the carb because everything else looked good but who would have thought there was a screen in there?

I find one of the best thing to free up stuff like this is the red rust check. Very slippery. Nice video, have a good summer.

I know someone who almost lost their life because they were grinding on the side of the grinding wheel and it exploded due to too much force. Just be careful!

And... most of us will remember this right after we start cussing at the designer that put that solenoid under that really thin nut. :) Of course, there's always that Virginia metric wrench - aka vice grips.

Great Video. Straight to the point. Thank you!

You lost me at 5:54. Maybe a pencil or small screwdriver to use as a pointer to show where the spring is going? I appreciate that you like clear consice videos but your fingers are sort of in the way of showing where the spring ends are suppose to go.

I have not had this problem..... yet! One day, when a neighbour brings me a lumpy, smokey tractor, now I'll be ready. Thanks Dony!

In my experience, when I ground off / mashed the star on the spindle hub, it was because I hit something with the blade. That material is made to be softer than the blade, so something will give. -Which means that you’re going to be buying a very expensive spindle.