Yes I believe they are.

Thank you very much!

The bevel gears translate the horizontal rotation of the main shaft to a vertical rotation for the spindle that the governor is connected to. The larger gear is indeed just fixed to the main shaft. Any drive would be taken from the smaller pully as it would be impractical to take a belt from the main flywheel as it would be some 12ft in diameter.

I am no expert but I believe it is there to handle the situation where if the engine was to stop at TDC then it allows the slide valve to be disconnected and the engine moved by manual means to allow the machine to start again.

Probably just from a practical construction on the full size engine. It was easier to do this than extend the mainshaft carrying the huge flywheel to include the drive pully. At least that's my guess,

​@@engineeringmodellerbonjours de France, j'ai construit une beem engine aussi, la même. La vitesse de la poulie devait être beaucoup plus grande que celle de l'arbre. Parce que c'était des machines très lentes environ 80 tours /minutes donc la poulie, à l'extérieur.

Sorry for the delay in responding, I don't have the details of the bearings but if you email spares AT marston-sunbeam.org they may be able to help.

Sorry for the delay in replying, there is a good description in an old model engineer magazine. I can email you it if you wish. My contact details can be found on www.shorrockphotography.com/intro/contact.html

Thanks, thats appreciated.

You could be right but at the time we were told it was a Gnome Rotary engine. Hell of an engine which ever way you look at it.

@@engineeringmodeller Looks very similar to a LeRhone but great engine nevertheless.

Thanks for your kind comment.

I am not sure I would but it does depend what you are riveting. On my models I found that the commecial snaps were too big and it was better to take my own from silver steel. They are not difficult to make, make a small indentaion in the end of the silver steel using a drill of the right size. Heat to red hot then wack a ball bearing of the size you want and you end up with dome of the correct size. Temper and you have a rivet snap.

@@engineeringmodeller Brilliant and very straightforward. Thank you.

Thanks Robert thats appreciated. I am working from Reeves plans which I must say are pretty good there are some errors but nothing like on some locos.

Yes same size above and below. Often the commercial snap heads are too big and you cant get them on to the rivet head. However you can make your own, use silver steel put a small indentation in the end with a drill. Then heat to red hot place a ball bearing of the appropriate size and give it a good wack. You now have a dome with the radius of the ball bearing. Harden and temper and you then have a rivet snap of what ever size you need.

@@grahamshorrock5558 Thank you!

Hi Dio. No I have purchased the boiler from Western Steam. Construction of the boiler would be above my capabilities

Peter that sounds great. There are a couple of excellent build threads on the model engineering forum which you may find useful ( I did). This is one of them. modeleng.proboards.com/thread/13166/stirling-single-10-00-scotchman?fbclid=IwAR24e3Mj5PwiDrHEtQri_iOT6vKAiHeCZxEpml6ksYDpU5Xzat0DH1CVjXw Graham

Thanks, I appreciate that.

Hi Bob, I must admit I cant remember its been a few years since I did the video and I have forgot the finer details. Sorry.

@@engineeringmodeller I assembled the gearbox I have and found there was about 3/16"-1/4" end float on the mainsheet so I pretty quickly realised that a spacer washer has to be fitted, however the spacer washer I have is about the same thickness as the spacer that I found in amongst a couple of hundred small bits and pieces of Sunbeam fasteners and small fittings. There is also a kind of thick cork washer fitted to the fixed gear shoulder between the gear and the bearing with a thinner washer fitted over the outer end of the bearing between the outside of the box abc the drive sprocket. I am still having problems getting the box to close up, I think it is an alignment problem rather than anything to do with the spacer being too thick because the box won't close the last 1/4" .

@@engineeringmodeller I've Just sussed it. The spacer washer on the shaft at the start of your video is actually the spacer that fits between the clutch and the gearbox. It fits closely into the recess in the outboard side of the bearing housing to act as a kind of oil seal, the thrower ring pushes oil back into the box along its spiral groove. I am missing the plate washer that fits inside the box but I will make one to fit.

Not sure why you think it is different. I only have one edge finder and it is the Starrett 827B

@@engineeringmodeller You failed to explain that you are gripping the body, with the writing on, and have a choice of either end to use. So, if it's removed and held the other way around, he'd see the pointer instead. Teaching can be bloody tedious!

@@peterrhodes5663 I would have thought it was pretty obvious that the edge finder was being gripped by the body.

@@suffolkfestivalofperformin9189 Well it obviously wasn't to FASTBOOBS.

That sounds like a great tip, I will give it a try next time. Thanks.

Ron, thanks for your explanation and clarification. Graham

Pumping engines do have a flywheel - as you said take a look at Papplewick where the flywheel is 20ft in diameter and weighs 24 tons.

@@rogerlill I have amended my post as you are correct Papplewick has a pump acting on both strokes requiring a flywheel to equalise the torque over one complete cycle in operation.

Thanks range Rover. Appreciated. If you want to see an excellent example of a finished model try this one. modeleng.proboards.com/thread/13166/stirling-single-10-00-scotsman?page=44

Michael, many thanks for your kind comments but I don't think I quite justify the accolade. There are many far better models than mine on KZbin.

Je suis désolé de vous contredire, le régulateur ne tourne pas rond dans l'axe et le volant idem. J'ai construit la même beam engine 6ans auparavant avec la chaudière ancienne comme les grandes identiques à l'échelle.excusez moi pour les critiques.j'ai construit 8 machine à vapeur. En ce moment je fabrique un moteur Benz 1886 à explosion.

Thanks Kevin

Not a silly question as some of the clearances are very small but I have double checked this and its not that.

@@engineeringmodeller Any luck with finding it elsewhere? All the best anyways!

That's good to know.

Hi Steven, thanks for that. I have allways enjoyed building things and with a bit of patience and lots of remakes its surprising what can be acheived.

Thanks, its not perfect as there is definately a small knock which needs sorting but overall its not too bad.

Yes indeed, I think a lot of the bikes suffer from the same problem, it looks like a design weakness in the original casting.

I did, I got a new gear cluster from Chris Odling, not cheap but excellent. Previously the bike would jump out of second every time I accelerated, with the new gear train its now great. I did another video of rebuilding the gearbox with the new gears kzbin.info/www/bejne/q5DZpGOrrb52n7M

Thanks Peter I appreciate that.

Hi Craig, no I had not packed it to the correct ride height. I have now tried doing so and it has definitely reduced the knock but not eliminated it. I am also not convinced that I have the valve timing spot on and I wonder if that could be part of the problem.

Yes timing may well be key to this. Try setting the timing to give early admission to the cylinders. That is - the valve starts to open before the piston reaches TDC or BDC. It has the effect of cushioning the pistons as they decelerate whilst also providing immediate force to the piston once it has gone over TDC/BDC. I think it is called 'lead' on the valve setting. On my 9F loco I seem to recall setting the valve lead at 0.010" using a feeler gauge. Definitely worth a try. Cheers Craig.

Sorry, the above is valve setting not timing. I put up a long-winded video regarding setting the valve timing for the Walschearts gear on my 9F. Not sure if any of it would translate to your valve gear.

@@no23mk2 Many thanks for that, I think I can learn a lot from your video, as I understand it the valve opening and closing is basically the same irrespective of the type of valve gear.