Hi! The simplest way I see is using a 3pdt switch for the bridge and a 4pdt for the neck. Finding a 4pdt as push pull pot might be a challenge. That would enable you to 'mirror' the connections as soon as they leave the pickup; white becomes red, green becomes blue, blue becomes green and red becomes white. For the bridge green and blue can remain permanently connected so you only need a 3pdt. Anything else would require some serious thought, I expect. This should work.

@@aaronstonebeat Really appreciate the reply! So the addition I was thinking of was a push/pull to split to the outer coil when the pickups are already in a humbucker position. E.g. you're in position 1 - the neck pickup in series humbucking. My suggestion was to then have a push/pull that would split to the outer coil in that position. Ideally one push/pull would split both but doesn't appear as if that would be possible without interfering with the rest of the schematic. I can understand how I'd need to use the 3PDT and 4PDT switches to mirror the connections but I don't see how that would split to the outer coil in the humbucking positions. However I can see how it would do so in the existing coil split position - position 3. I do already have another possible wiring scheme I could use. A smart luthier from California did a diagram for me for 2 humbuckers - it has a 3-way DPDT switch for each pickup to go between series/parallel/outer coil split, a 3-way blade for pickup selection, and another switch that bypasses the blade and goes immediately to both inner coils. She had to use a 3PDT switch for that 'inner coil override' feature. I am using this scheme on another guitar, but I am also considering what to do with my Legator OT7T currently. I like the clean aesthetic of this guitar so wasn't as keen on having to route holes for an additional 3 switches. That's why I was considering your scheme as I could do that without having to do any routing. Will have a think about what I want to do in the end. I may end up using the scheme detailed above, seen as I did pay for her to do it for me so would be nice to make use of it in 2 guitars. The Legator OT7T has an interesting Tele/offset shape and has a pickguard, so maybe I'll use some 3 position slider switches for the series/parallel/outer coil split. I've not found a 3PDT push/pull before but seen as you mentioned it, I did have a quick search and found a 4PDT push/pull. Quite expensive but it definitely exists. So I may be able to do the scheme I was sent with just having to route space for 2 new switches, not 3 as I could use the 4PDT push/pull instead of a 3PDT toggle. Thanks again for replying, I will certainly keep your wiring scheme in mind as it seems useful to get good tonal variety from just one switch.

Thanks for your comment. Were you forced to watch? Did you have to pay to watch? I'm sure there are lots of videos showing you just how to do it. The best of luck with your search.

He does deserve a huge amount of recognition!

Beste Jean, Het principe is niet anders dan dat van 'normale' pickups; een spoel in een magneetveld. Alleen zijn het hier twee U-vormige magneten, met gelijke polen boven en onder de spoel (beide noord boven of beide zuid boven). Het geheim zit 'm ongetwijfeld in de dimensies, het gebruikte wikkeldraad, het aantal windingen, de sterkte van de magneten, het materiaal van de poolschroeven. Ik zal je vast niets nieuws vertellen en de juiste maten van al die ingrediënten weet ik niet. Is daar niets over te vinden in het oorspronkelijke patent? Wel tof om te proberen zoiets te maken!

@@aaronstonebeat Bedankt Marc, ja ik ken het aantal windingen (+/- 5000) van .38 AWG draad, dan kom je uit op ongeveer 1.8 K Ohm DC weerstand. Ik heb ooit een Rickenbacher gekocht en daar heb ik alle maten van gebruikt. Het enige wat ik niet weet is van welk materiaal de 'poolpieces' gemaakt zijn, en het exacte soort staal. Volgens sommige amerikaanse sites is het O1 Toolsteel, wat in Europa overeen komt met 1.2510 gereedschaps staal. Verder heb ik nog een stuk of 5 andere soorten gereedschapsstaal geprobeerd met allemaal verschillende percentages koolstof, silicium, mangaan, chroom, vanadium enzovoort. Maar blijkbaar is het percentage Wolfram of Tungsten belangrijk, en laat dat nu niet, of weinig aanwezig zijn in het meeste soorten gereedschaps staal. Het is waarschijnlijk daarom dat ik deze staalsoorten onvoldoende gemagnetiseerd krijg. Ik ben wel al heel kort bij het geluid dat ik zoek, en dat kun je horen in de link hieronder. Dit is een oude jaren '30 rickenbacher. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bnLVqHSngp1rgdk Groetjes Jean

@@germona Ik heb ooit wat geëxperimenteerd met het maken van pickups; gewoon om te kijken of het überhaupt kon. Als 'pole pieces' gebruikte ik boutjes van een bouwmarkt; mijn test voor bruikbaarheid was of ze voldoende aan een magneet bleven plakken 😁 Sommige staalsoorten zijn maar zwak magnetisch; een hoop 'goedkoop' standaardspul is ruim voldoende ferromagnetisch. Voor een element is 1,8 kOhm niet buitensporig veel. Maar ik weet uit ervaring dat het heel mooi en helder kan klinken.

No, not in the way I show it here. They are in parallel and it doesn't matter which is on the 'left' or on the 'right'. You could connect the tone pot to the swiper of the volume pot (the middle lug, that would be the reverse order); maybe there could be a difference then, but only when you start rolling them down. To be honest, I've never tried that.

Not easily, the way I see it. But you could use a push/pull pot or an extra mini switch to connect W and Z to ground. That would turn the bridge pickup in a single coil in postition 1, both pickups in position 3 (same as 2 then) and the neck pickup in position 5. Don't sue me if I made a mistake here 😉 It would be relatively easy to try though.

@@aaronstonebeat Awesome! Thank you so much for saving me from frying my brain cells :D I will definitely give it a try!

The noise is independent of the magnetic field in the pickup; it is canceled because the coils are connected out of phase. To produce a signal from the metal strings, the coils need a magnetic field. If the coils are only connected out of phase, they would be out of phase for the string signal too; by reversing the polarity in one coil, they are in phase relative to the string signal. I just had a long conversation with RamPamParam about exactly the same thing. And the answer is in the video 😉

@@aaronstonebeat thankyou

Many well known humbuckers indeed have a bar magnet underneath, between the pole pieces. In this case the pole pieces are not magnets but merely ferromagnetic material. The pole pieces are magnetized by the magnet. I'm not entirely sure why this is done. It is very well possible to use magnetic pole pieces, like in many single coil pickups (In fact, in most single coil guitars, when two pickups are selected, they are humbucking; because of the reversed polarity and connection of the pickups). The bar magnet has nothing to do with reversing the current in one of the coils.

​@@aaronstonebeat Thanks for the response! Very appreciated. Not entirely sure what you mean by "when two pickups are selected, they are humbucking; because of the reversed polarity and connection of the pickups". Wouldn't one of the coils need to have a set of magnets with an opposing polarity in order to produce this kind of humbucking effect?

@@RamPamParam Yes, you are correct in that the pole pieces need to be reversed polarity in the two coils. But they already are because the bar magnet is polarized lengthwise; one row of pole pieces touches the north pole, the other row touches the south pole. So each row of pole pieces becomes an extension of the pole they touch. Basically the rows of ferromagnetic pole pieces and the bar magnet together form a U-shaped magnet.

In a standard telecaster for instance, when both pickups are on they are humbucking. One pickup has north up magnets, the other one has south up magnets; and they are reverse wound (or reverse connected if they are wound in the same direction; the effect is the same).

@@aaronstonebeat Also, correct me if I'm off, but if the magnet bar is the only actual magnet in the pickup, it would mean that each set of ferromagnetic poles would be oppositely charged (6 poles positively and the other 6 negatively). So how would this affect the explanation in your video where both sets of ferromagnetic poles are referred to as individual magnets?

That is probably a great question and on one hand I'm not sure how to answer it while on the other I'm sure you're right. But then the whole series of harmonics is present in the vibrating string to begin with so it will also be in the vibrating magnetic field.

That is interesting. Are you certain the switch works as it is supposed to?

@@aaronstonebeat Of course I added a new selector..

@@apianik I'll go through my schematic again when I have time but I'm quite certain it is correct; that is based on the research and thought I put in before making this video and the reactions to it so far.

Thanks! 1) Yes, the magnets/pole pieces are reversed polarity; it wouldn't be a humbucking pickup otherwise. 2) By wiring pickups in series the output will be higher compared to wiring in parallel. In guitars this is most noticeable in the midrange of the sound. Some experimenting might be wise. 3) Which wires should be connected to each other depends on the construction of the pickups and de colour code used. Again, some experimenting might be a good thing; if you get it wrong, the pickups will be out of phase and not much bass tone will be left.

I'm quite certain my schematic is correct, several people have used it succesfully. If it was wired differently the guitar must have behaved differently.

@@aaronstonebeat I think it did. I will redraw over your schematic how it was wired based on my photos and message you when it's done. If it's possible just looking at the schematic can you tell me how it behaved? I'm so curious what was going on. Lol I'm excited because I'm resoldering my guitar today!! This is the most helpful video

@@ahendowski If I have the schematic I should be able to deduce it. Thanks and good luck!

Unfortunately KZbin is removing my comment with the link to the schematic. Is there anyway I can email you or message you somehow like on Facebook so I can send you the picture? I've tried posting the comment two times and it's getting removed

@@ahendowski Sure, mail it to [email protected]