This is all a bit outside of my knowledge base, however... Some years back, I looked into using the Si5351A for various non-radio applications. In my research, I encountered a blog/paper showing the mathematical proofs that the Si5351 could not attain certain radio frequencies using the stock 25MHz reference oscillator that is included on most (all?) Si5351A breakout modules. This is due to the same fixed means of mathematics that you explain. Further, the author proved that the math did work at 27MHz. I would think that the typical cautions regarding fake chips would hold true for the 5351.. The assumption being that the AdaFruit module would have OEM parts. However, it comes with a 25MHz oscillator. Just some off-beat thoughts... Cheers.

I had the same exact issue with the 2SC1971. I thought it might be a fake so I ordered a pack of 10 "used" ones. 8 out of 10 tested good and that solved the problem.

Great video! i have a board that uses this codec chip and would like to use an arduino to get the data output stream from it (just read it and send to the serial monitor on the pc). How would i do that? read dout pin any time the clock hits high?

Please reply! What are the new ICs that superseded the MC1496 or LM1496.... Please reply!

Just finishing my 2nd T4 Laser Synth PCB, using the PCM3168 CODEC, because the CS42448 went EOL on me.

ref: 'Notes and Volts' Teensy Synth tutorial series. 👍 That's where I learned.

CORRECTION: Although the SGTL5000 has I2C controlling the CODEC, the audio communications between the T4.x and SGTL5000 are strictly I2S. Many folks don't understand the difference between I2C device control and I2S audio protocol. I've used 2 SGTL5000 audio boards, with one modified with a unique I2C address for quad in/out, as well as the CS42448 6in/8out CODEC for a laser synth. But, with the CS42448 @ EOL, I'm now developing a new PCB, using the 6in8out PCM3168A CODEC. JS

I can't find anything about using the I2S2 for Audi Reactive thing for WLED... How should I wire it, What do I need to consider?

Did you ever do a follow-up to this video?

I am not sure if it really worked for me, but I used to completely submerge the board and the resist under water. Then get the resist and board aligned on the top edge. When you lift it out of the water, top edge first, surface tension will pull the resist to the board without any bubbles or wrinkles. As I remember it, there was no "free" water under the film but I assumed the film absorbed some so I let them dry in a warm dark place for a while. BUT I did run into problems which may or may not have had anything to do with the water bath. Often the resist was very resistant to coming off where it should. It is more likely my UV light wasn't diffuse enough, or I was overexposing. I think the film was also getting old and slightly exposed looking off the roll. The other problem, I think might be fixed by doubling up the transparency like you did but for some reason it didn't occur to me to try that. I ended up with lots of little pinholes in the resist and copper. On the other hand, it could have been mini steam bubbles from the water bath and laminater. After etching, I think I removed the resist with acetone rather than lye. Assuming I'm not full of crap, I think that might be a little safer to work with, especially if done outside. Seems like the body even makes a little acetone as part of normal metabolism so it might be equipped to deal with a whiff of fumes every now and then. Anyway, yours turned out a lot better looking then mine but I thought you might want to see if the water bather helps or hurts your process.

how could I get the complete schematics diagram please ? Regards.

Am in middle of my 20M kit build, after having three kits for four years in their boxes. Enjoyed your videos. Have one for 40,. and another for 80. KB7GK

If you put the transparency in the thin box together with a cotton ball, paper tissue or something similar soaked in acetone for a couple of minutes, you will get much more contrasty print, and won't need to use two transparencies. I had a printing company long ago, and we were printing tons of user manuals for appliances, TV sets and such. We used laser printed tracing paper, and it worked perfectly, no reason why it wouldn't work with transparencies.

Can anyone supply me with the value of VR1? My kit is missing that part.

Somewhere in the Wilderness manual, Wayne states that power in watts can be determined by dividing Vpp by 400.

I wonder why you didn't build a four channel ADC board to allow you to use a personal computer and appropriate software so you don't have to rely on the sigent.

thank you very much

I'm having no output power on my QCX 20 meter build, however I can hear signals on the air just fine. I will look into this area later tonight. Thanks.

I hope you see and answer my Question. Can you show how to make that amp work in the 400-500MHz. I'll be happy with 10 to 20 watts. I have seen a lot of videos but most are not in the 400-500MHz range. I have this same kit you have plus many more parts. For one thing, I see they use Pills to get big watts. Where can a person get them or can you make them?

I blew the irf 530s...Will check the bias circuitry to make sure it is ok after removing the mosfets. I have irf 540s.Do you think they will work as well as the irf 530s...I overheated the irf530s .They were working well until I got too talkative on SSB! Thanks...

one question: because of the suppression, i have to change the i/q inputs on this phase shift network depending if it's USB and LSB also, besides the LO, so it doesn't cancel the audio completely?

hi, i have a question, instead of the fst3253, can i use a mixer like SBL-1, for the RX part?

I wish someone would do a review to the 180w version.

of all the few videos i have found for this, you have the BEST video! but i wonder if i may ask.... i built my little amplifier to your instructions, however, i do not have a oscilloscope, and i dont have the low pass filter yet, but i tried to test wattage with just my wattmeter, and i have zero output. i can key my radio with 1 watt, and it registers on my watt meter, but as soon as i key the amp, i lose the 1 watt that i have, as if its not putting out. can you suggest where i might look to see if i have something wrong? i did adjust the bias to approx 2.7vdc as some schematics have shown it to be. thanks in advance for your help. this is my first kit, and am excited to see it work!

I checked the spec for the LM4562, rated Vmin is 5V and I wonder if this is not a problem with a bit of noise on the 5V. Try uping the voltage a bit, 1V should dp ot for a test but you will need to cut the supply pin so as not to feed 6V to the other parts which wouldn't like that. I'm waiting on some working FSt3253 from china to test this out. I am going to use an LT6231 in my design as I have tems and they work from 3 -12 VDC with very good low noise performance. They are a bit pricey . Your trip to Oz is well and truely over by now, I would love to go home but stuck in NL. I miss a VB on the Swan.

PCB link no work

Does it make sense to put degenneration resistor on Q1, Q2, Q3 and Q4 ?

These make better thermometers than oscillators.

I would have thought that you need a level shifter to shift 3V->5V and 5V->3V so you don't damage any of the chips.

Question: In the datasheet of the PCM3060 It says that center voltage for input analog pins is 0.5 * Vcc -> 0.5 * 5V -> 2.5V. Does that mean that the input signal must be raised by 2.5V. So the final audio input signal should be from -0.5V to 4.5V? Sorry I am not a circut master.

In your code 'run thru' you keep referring to "TAPS". What are "TAPS"???

Thank you very much!

I wish that I would have found this a couple of years ago! It is exactly what I needed. I needed the RSSI and the ability to adjust squelch only. I was making a Fox hunting helper with an accompanying iPhone application. It had built in attenuation and all. The Transceiver chip drove me insane with the lack of documentation. So much that I gave up on it completely! I still have my RDA on a breakout board and feel an interest again. Maybe… Thank you for sharing this. The startup sequence was my issue.

here's a little tip,mist the board with water ensure the board is fully misted,squeegee all the air bubbles out,the water helps keep a vacuum and causes the film to vacuum suck onto the board,then either iron on or use the laminator. Applying the resist sheet to a dry board just traps air,it's the same thing with dryslide decals the water helps get the air out. Just make sure to squeegee out ALL of the water,you may need to run through the laminator twice or thrice,with the hot iron a sheet or two of kitchen roll to help make full thermal contact and press the film fully onto the board as the board is not perfectly flat. The UV exposure is by far the best method for pcb manufacture,with screen printing a close tie,both use UV exposure for the image,i've tried both ,the silk screen for is more expensive with the negative resist from china being the favoured method for cost effectiveness and less wastefull. You can buy liquid resist thinned with acetone,i have some and i'm bursting to try it out ,it drys in a few hours,i could apply it with a hard rubber roller like lithographic stamps. I have a few sheets of presensitised copper sheet,a 5m roll of the neg resist and the wet resist,for two pcbs no bigger than a square inch or so each,one is a smps booster for tube HT and the other is a buffer op amp for the tubes output,small daughter boards for breadboarding the tubes. I have caustic soda,i had to order the soda crystals for two reasons,one i can't find the caustic soad!!!!!! and second i remember the caustic soda removing the resist layer completely from the board it being a little too aggressive ,big clive (a fellow scot) used the soda crystals and in no time the job was done and in a far less aggressive manner. I'll share another tip i gave to big clive,and another Scottish tip too,the etchant ferric chloride is great in a bubbler tank also in a passive tub,i made tube amps with brass facia plates with the decals etched into the brass,it took ages to cut the brass with it being a copper zinc alloy a lot of smut was building up and frequent use of a babies tooth brush to clear said smut. I found out that a fluid for etching brass and it works amazing on copper,it clears the smut in a passive tank and reduces etch time in an active (bubble) tank,it is called EDINBURGH ETCHANT. Edinburgh etchant is ferric chloride mixed with citric acid,i bought citric acid powder from ebay few table spoons in the tank you have there would be fine,the effect is amazing with regards to how clean and quickly the pcb or brass is etched and the brass particularly noticeably deep and crisp edges,without under cutting as was the case before due to the time taken,the citric acid kept it clear of smut,that's what the pcb bubbles are for,time is reduced considerably to make a pcb,very uniform fast etch,be careful.

Any chance you would be willing to do an updated video building one of the Amazon versions that the SMD's are not already mounted? I have the kit(I knew what iwas getting into) and I want to build it right, but mine came with a bare board and a bunch of SMD components.

Hi, I've been developing a dsp board with the cs5343 and cs4344 (same as i2smod) and I've come to the conclusion that they are introducing some HF noise in the audio, which honestly is quite noticeable when processing and amplifying guitar Have you noticed or measured any improvement in audio quality when using the ES8388? I'm considering switching to it for many reasons

Esse é 1 amplificador para 40 metros ? Valeu 👍 obrigado e parabéns pelo projeto ! Top d+

Nice video.i wandering have you seen a very significant negative temp.coefficient within the 5351 boards.

Thanks.

Nice video. by the way this amplifier also works on SSB i have personally tested it so no issue on SSB yes if you add a Low Pass filter then it works great.

That looks like the same module in the *Jessinie ESP32-Audio-Kit*

You should maybe replace the metal tabs in the picture frame come tool every six to twelve months as the tabs are prone to getting brittle and break.

In Printer Options turn on Enhance Black Printing and you should get really Black Blacks.

Just make sure that Transparency Film won't melt at the fusing temperature that fusing rollers operates at.

The Photorest Method is tried and tested.

Good result, thanks, Ian! R9OFG, 73!

Thanks, Ian!

It can be implemented in C/C++ but must be written in 80586 machine code for it to work properly.

Interesting but it seems to me the delay is improper... the I component needs to be filtered in a complementary way to the Q component, that way the lissajous plot will always be circular, and the radio wave will be perfect single sideband. I'm not sure what is the best way to get this though...

for sharpest possible image transfer you do want to flip the F side, since dye or toner is printed on one side of transparency and it should be closest to pcb or some light will refract and spill into transparency and under it