Yes, Osmo Polyx Oil can be applied over a wood dye, but it's important to ensure the dye is fully dry and compatible with oil-based finishes. We recommend testing on a small area first to check for any reactions and colour shift. For best results, apply the dye evenly, allow it to cure completely, followed by a very light sand and then apply the Polyx Oil in two thin coats. This ensures proper adhesion and a beautiful, durable finish!

It doesn't need a full on sand. More a light scratch of the surface. A P120/P180 finishing pad like this is all you need. www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/woodleys-finishing-pads

It will probably be a case of seeing how it looks after sanding. Chances are it could probably do with a top up of stain to bring back uniformity to the colour.

@WoodFinishesDirect thank you so much for answering, that's really helpful 👍

Did you wipe off the excess after applying? It's important to do this as surplus oil that hasn't sunk in to the wood will rest on the surface and not really dry. Coupled with cleaning after quite a short amount of time, you are essentially rubbing the non cured oil off the surface.

@ yes I left it for 10-15 minutes then wiped off the excess, I’ve left an area now for a few days to see if it will cure properly, thx for the reply, will update soon after seeing how it goes 👍

It's always advisable to give a light sand (de-nib) between coats. You don't need to use anything too coarse. A P120 finishing pad such as this is ideal - www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/woodleys-finishing-pads And don't forget to wipe of excess oil on each coat after allowing the bulk of it to sink in.

Not sand but as with all finishing you are well advised to ‘de nibb ‘ between coats, clean surfaces of any bits and re coat

It's a bit like the scourer you might use in the kitchen but designed for de-nibbing - www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/woodleys-finishing-pads?

This would all come down to the particular top coat which is being used. The premier wood preserver contains wax, so if you are looking to paint over the top in a matt finish, I would recommend the premier universal preserver. When applying a preserver, followed by a top coat, its is always better to stick to the same brand. E.G - Barrettine with Barrettine, Cuprinol with Cuprinol. Please do call us on 01303 477555 if you want to discuss further. We'd be happy to help.

Glad it was helpful!

Hi, thanks for the comment. We'd welcome having a chat with you about this. We're always on the end of the phone - 01303477555.

There are quite a few variables that would be good to know. By all means call us 01303477555 and we can help you further.

That said, Polyvine decorators varnish can be applied over most water-based paints following a light sand to create a key.

Fantastic!

The Osmo Polyx Oil is very popular on new Oak as it leaves it looking very natural whilst enriching the natural colours in the grain. The Oak will require sanding as this opens the grain up to allow the oil to penetrate as it should. If the Oak is planed or sanded too finely then this can hinder the penetration of the oil.

They do a tints set of Polyx which can be found here - www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-colour-foundation

It's a good question. Oiled floors tend to have a more 'soaked in' appearance and the floor will feel softer if that makes sense! Also take your nail to it in a corner and see if you can scratch it. With a varnish or lacquer the floor will have more of a hard sealed appearance and feel. All of that said if you are wanting to refinish the floor, chances are you will need to sand back to get rid of any previous coatings and give you a new blank canvas to work on. You can then choose the finish you want depending on taste and traffic.

Slightly depends on usage. If it's on a chopping board for example that's getting a lot of washing and scrubbing, you might see signs it needs topping up after 6 months or so. The great thing is it's an easy job to give things a top up. Light sand with a finishing pad, thin coat and wipe off excess. If you'd like any further advice, the experts are on the phone - 01303477555

You should be good to go with a maintenance overcoat of just Filter 7 plus, but if there were sections that had any severe weathering you might want to sand back and apply a coat of HLS and feather it in to the rest of the area. But in most cases a Filter 7 overcoat or two should do the trick.

I would suggest letting the first coat properly harden. You can then sand and smooth out the runs. Give the whole area a bit of a sand to balance it all up and proceed with your second coat. As with all oil applications, remember to wipe of excess once the coat has had time to sink in. This will avoid runs and sticky areas. I know it's easier said than done, but if you can take the door off and work on it horizontally, you won't be fighting the dreaded gravity. 🙄

TBH the fumes/smell of this hard wax oil are minimal despite being solvent based.

Hi there, Budget recommendations would be: Cuprinol Garden Shades Ducksback If you to go a bit higher end with the ease of not having to do multiple coats, these guys all have grey shades that give an opaque finish: Bedec MSP Protek Royal Exterior (award winning!) Osmo Country Colour Zinsser AllCoat Exterior Superdec All can be found at www.wood-finishes-direct.com and of course call our experts on 01303 477555 if you would like to discuss things further.

Thanks very much for the message. Glad you had a great experience.

@@WoodFinishesDirect very happy with the product too, water beads very nicely after just one coat!

Hi, thank you! We would always encourage wiping off the excess with a lint free cloth. If too much product settles on the surface it could mark with contact and be tacky to touch. A roller does tend to put a fair amount on also, so more reason to wipe off excess. If its not tacky I would not worry too much! I hope the project goes well and if you need any further assistance please give us a call on 01303 477555

Hi, thank you for getting in touch. All Osmo products are designed to soak into the timber. A knotting solution will prevent this so it is not recommended to use any knotting solution with the Osmo products. Feel free to get in touch on 01303 477555 for any further advice.

Providing the stain is in good condition and the previous coatings have not gone back to bare wood in any areas then 2 coats of the Filter 7 can be applied. If any areas are back to bare wood, these areas will require a coat of Sikkens Cetol HLS first directly onto the bare wood.

😄😄

Apologies for the delay in replying. You need to be very careful with veneers as oils can soften the glue that holds the veneers on and can delaminate them. It really comes down to the thickness of the veneers and the type of glue used. If you have an off cut, ideally you should do a test area. If the veneers don't delaminate during the drying time then they will be fine. And yes, you will need to lightly sand to open the grain.