You are most welcome! I hope it all went well for you. Best, Tom

By 'jump start' I presume you mean 'kick start'. It is not easy or inexpensive. Due to some key parts being both hard to find on the used market and out of production by the OEM, you need to find a complete kit that someone has salvaged from a KLR600. This is the best I can offer in the way of a kick start guide: www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-a-lkr-kickstarter-but-were-afraid-or-too-smart-to-ask

I am not familiar with these 175cc bikes, so I have to give a generic answer. For the most part, motorcycles are built with very rugged bottom ends. They are rolling elements like in a two-stroke rather than sleeve bearings like in a car. They can survive with very little oil. Remember that two strokes are lubricated by mixing the oil into the gas at a 30-to-1 ratio. Also, the crankshaft as it spins stirs up the oil inside the engine, as does the transmission. The result is an oil storm in the bottom end. That oil splashes up to the small end of the connecting rod in the piston. It also coats the walls of the cylinder. This splash lubrication provides a good amount of lubrication to the bottom end. The cams, on the other hand, are typically at the end of the oiling system and survive on a flow of oil at almost no pressure. Replacing the banjo bolts with ones that have the capability to deliver more oil seems like sound reasoning to me.

I remember you! Hope you are well. Tom

Thanks Jack, I have just finished putting a Mikuni TM42 in place of the CVK40. Tom

@@souperdoo Do you expect some performance increase from this carb?

@@Darkipod, sorry! I missed your comment. The short answer is "yes, definitely". I got it in and it is pretty awesome. Gas mileage is probably going to suffer...

O-ring*

If your fuel inlet is the pull-and-twist-to-remove style, yes there should be an o-ring. Later elbows were more or less permanently installed in the carb body; they are a different matter. Check your vent elbow and see if it has an o-ring on it. That will help you determine the size and might even get you going until you can pick up new o-rings. The vent doesn't absolutely have to have an o-ring. Tom

There are o-rings on the fuel line fittings that insert into the carb body. They seem to be in good shape but fuel is still leaking out. I can't seem to find a part number for these o-rings so I can purchase new ones.

@@souperdoo The o-rings appear to be 1/4" ID and 1/16" thick.

O-rings are universal. Buy some that are made from Viton, Buna-N, or Nitrile and you will be fine. And you’re correct, they should be rind and soft.

Who are you? Jacob McCandles. I thought you were dead. Not hardly

@MrTravlinman1973, Hi there! I'm glad you have found it to be of some use and help to you. These Keihins are simple and easy. I first ran into this type of carburetor on my 1979 Honda CX500. They got dirty and I took them apart and was astounded at how much like a toilet they are in the way they work. ;^) I have one of the carbs from a Vulcan; it's a pumper carb. One of these days I'm going to get around to installing it on my KLR. I've been saying that for 10 years... Best regards and Happy Riding, Tom

Jack, You should check this out: www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-a-lkr-kickstarter-but-were-afraid-or-too-smart-to-ask The short answer is "no". I haven't been inside the Gen 3, so I don't know all of the issues that you'd face but, at a minimum, you would have to split the cases and change the transmission to a pre-'11 transmission. I don't know if KHI is still machining all the required bores in the right-side engine case. There could be other issues that I'm simply unaware of. Whether or not a kickstart would even work with EFI is another question I don't know the answer to. Tom

edelsite, I believe that this is the current URL for the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYXHpaWZhcuVbs0 Tom

Thank you

Kickstarter!? That is the first step on the road to madness! How hard it is depends on what year you have. The parts are getting harder and harder to find. It's all here, as far as I know... www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-a-lkr-kickstarter-but-were-afraid-or-too-smart-to-ask Tom

When I got the 816, the table it was in was in decent shape; functional but not attractive. I modified that table to be as small as possible and with a drop-leaf. I don't know how close you are to Los Angeles but, just as an example, this tabletop should work for you, using your existing base/legs. atlaslevy.com/Sewing-Machine-Table-top-for-overlock-Sewing-Machines_p_3772.html You might need to do some drilling, but all your hardware should transfer over to that tabletop. Tom

@@souperdoo thank you! I live in MS and we don’t have a large group that use industrial machines. I’ll order it and get it up and running. Thank you again

@@brianharris4469 , Good luck with it, it should be not too hard once you have a tabletop. During my career, I spent a lot of time in Forest. I flew into Jackson from Dallas too many times to count! I usually stayed in Philadelphia at the Pearl River Resort. Tom

@@brianharris4469 , I don't know where my brain is at; it's not engaged this morning. You might want to contact Collier Equipment. they are in Lexington, AL, and have a lot of stuff. Their website isn't the greatest, but they respond to calls. They have new and used because they liquidate a lot of factories. Might be you could drive there and save shipping. collierequipment.com/index.html

Hi Matthew, The seal has no orientation. If I had taken the seal out, I would replace it. It's a press fit so taking it out and re-installing it is a bit dodgy. I usually replace the entire seal on the rare occasion that I remove the clutch cover, as the consequences of the seal not working right are a pain in the butt. There have been times when I was taking the cover on and off repeatedly to fiddle with clutches and to do oil pressure testing. In that case, I didn't replace it every time, but it was really getting much use in between the case removal. I just had to be really careful to not nick the seal when going over the threads on the shaft. And, of course, I had to make sure things were really clean. The seal can be reused a few times but, in my opinion, not when it has been removed from the case. Happy New Year! Tom

No worries, good advice. Thanks for your reply Tom

You will need a complete kick-start assembly mechanism, which includes a very hard-to-find 13206-1051 Guide. You will need a kick lever that is in great shape; you may want to look for a KZ1000 lever if the one you have is dodgy. The 2003 does not have the idler gear in it, so you need that in addition to the early clutch basket. I'd look for a complete clutch.

There has been no change to the balancer adjuster design for 2023. No design change, no upgrade to parts. The adjustment procedure is the same as it has been since the first KLR650.

I have no idea what the difference between a KACR and non-KACR test would show on a 250. On the 650 it is about 70psi. On almost any modern over-head valve engine, regardless of displacement, the specs for good compression are pretty consistent so I would suspect that the 70psi delta would hold true for the 250. There's no reason to have the valve cover off while doing a compression test. Keeping it in place is a good idea! When I made that video I left the cover off so that I could easily disable the KACR, but only to benefit the making of the video. Considering that you need to roll it down a hill, it seems the best way to do it. I do think, though, that you could get a good reading by repeatedly kicking the bike over so long as you hold the throttle wide open (which is needed for any compression test).

Ok. Sound good, although my old knees started crying just thinking about it.

@@graffiti2006 I hear ya! I have one real knee and one fake one. The fake one is on the kicking side. It usually only takes 4 or 5 revolutions to reach the maximum compression reading, so figure that into your plan. My KLR goes one revolution per kick and I imagine the 250 is the same.

I am glad to hear that! There's no good reason not to have a Kickstarter on a Gen 1 because it is really pretty easy to do. The hardest thing is finding the parts, and you've got those, so have at it! Best, Tom

No, you can't. The splined shaft on the KLR600/650 is much larger than the one on the KLR250. What you CAN use is the lever off of a KZ900/1000. It is what I currently have on my bike. They are usually reasonably priced (who wants one?) and in good shape (who ever used one?) Regards, Tom

From a balancer system perspective, there is only one top dead center. The engine cycle doesn't come into play.

I made it. I started with the old, standard table that the machine came with and modified the base to make it smaller, made the sub-table smaller, then mounted the whole mess as far to the left on the base as I could, then cut off the left side of the table and made a drop-leaf out of it. I added the airlifts just for giggles and grins. A new Formica top and new edge molding were installed. I don't have a lot of space and having the overlock on a small table is a real help. Most of the time, I don't even need to raise the leaf.

I should have read all of the comments LOL! Thank you for the video and info

Hi JJ, I'm glad if it may have helped you! Tom

Hi Dom! I'm glad people are still finding it useful. The design is pretty much unchanged and I guess it remains to be seen if the spring problem that was on the Gen 2 carries forward. Tom

I had to do it. They told me that putting a kickstart on a Gen 2 couldn't be done.

@@souperdoo Legend! I'm in awe of your tenacity, perseverance... and sheer bull headedness!

Hi, Yeah, it is an odd contraption, isn't it? If you are going to replace it there is a series of videos that cover the job on my channel. They are about 45 minutes in total, but pretty much walk you through the job in real-time. Best, Tom

Yes, it is still running. Works fine. Increased power, meh, yeah, but not in a huge way. With changed valve timing the power and torque peak has been moved higher in the RPM range. It pulls very nicely from there and accelerates well from 100KPH on up. Fuel economy for KLRs has, for me, always been right at 5l/100km. That didn't change when I went from stock to a 685 nor when I went from stock to the Wossner.

Hi Nathan, I'm glad that you found it to be useful! Thanks for your kind comment. Regards, Tom

T-Bone, The spring pulls the lever to the left. After I have pushed the lever to the left in order to take up all the slack in the system and make it easier to install the spring, there's no real point in loosening the bolt after the spring is installed. At that point in time, all the slack is taken up. In a few thousand miles, say at the next oil change, then the engine should be set to top dead center, the bolt loosened, the case rapped with a soft mallet, and the spring will do its job to move the lever to the left and take up the slack. This is a periodic adjustment that needs to be done. And, of course, the lever should never be allowed to run loose without the bolt tightened. Tom

@@souperdoo thank you sir

@@souperdoo I was wondering if you could help me with the proper routing of fuel lines and vaccum hoses from the carburetor to petcock and vents ? 2008 gen 2. I've checked all kinds of diagrams and forums but I'm still a little confused as to what goes where. Mainly the two plastic 90° top and bottom on left side of carb and the brass fitting top right on carb. Sir you seem to be the guru of all that is KLR so I subscribed to your channel for your wealth of wisdom ! Thanks in advance.

@@t-bone9403 Happy to do that! The Gen 2 has a brass fitting with two barbs on it. One is for the Air Injection System, and the other is for the vacuum-operated petcock. If you have removed the AIS, then block off its barb. If you have replaced the OEM petcock with a manual petcock, block off its barb. I like to use a properly sized plastic screw protector. They come in various sizes and are made from a very flexible plastic that doesn’t degrade as a neoprene one will. You can find them at places like ACE hardware. If you have both the AIS and the OEM petcock, they need to have vacuum hoses running to the fitting in order to function and it doesn’t matter which barb they are connected to. On the carb, the gray elbow at the top is the carb vent. It must be open or the carb won’t work. Its hose should be routed to a place where it can both breathe and won’t get water in it. Many folks will put a T fitting in the line and run one leg up the backbone of the frame toward the front of the frame and the other hose down along the subframe under the seat. The routing of the lines is fairly simple, just make them as direct as possible and avoid routing next to the exhaust pipe for the AIS and for the carb vent. If you never go near a water crossing then the carb vent doesn't really need to have a hose at all. Use a 1/8" (3mm) vacuum hose for the connection to the back of the OEM petcock and to the AIS. It is smaller in outside diameter and more flexible than a braided line. It is easier to route. The lower elbow is the fuel inlet. The hose goes from the petcock's outlet straight into the black elbow. Use Tygon line, as it is clear (yellow), very flexible, easy to work with, and remains flexible. Both of these elbows have O-rings on them which seal them to the carb body. If you take the fittings off it is a good idea to refresh the O-rings. Tom

@@souperdoo thank you again sir !

Hi! Sorry to respond so slowly, but you are very welcome! Tom

I'm glad you found them and hope they are what you need! Tom

@@souperdoo exactly what I needed just the right info. She runs smoother and more responsive than it ever has since I've had it.