Very good indeed thanks for sharing

Excellent video. Subscribed.

Something so simple ends up as a scary thing for some people, thank you for the step by step guide as to how you did it. This will definitely get the grey cells working for many of us who think it is too complicated to even think about. Please keep sharing your DIY tips with us. Oh by the way don’t forget to tap the thumbs up and subscribe to the channel.

Excellent video. Thanks for sharing :)

Brillant. Well done.

Excellent video presentation. Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.

Very cool

You are so lucky that modern LEDs don't (always) fail on 12V reverse polarity. It is actually worth putting another LED in parallel, but the other polarity, so neither LED gets the full 12V. Or use a red/green two-lead LED, that has two in opposite polarities already. Some uninformed people would say "Ah, well, it's got a resistor in series, so that's OK". No, the resistor won't drop any voltage until a current flows through it, and a reverse-biased LED should pass no current, so no voltage drop, so 12V straight across your LED, reverse-biased, and your LED is rated at, usually, 6V reverse, maximum. If you used a 1980s LED instead, it would just glow very brightly. And briefly. Trust me, I've been an electronics engineer since 1975. The Blutak was a good idea, though.

I have found that a simple globe of 10Watts is better. The diode only draws a small current so wont pick up any high resistance problems. also as noted by someone else below LED requires a bridge rectifier, although a second diode in parallel will help to show direction on DC or both light on DCC. suggested globe is festoon type

Thank you for that, and it was so refreshing to hear soLder and not soDDer.

Top tip making one for checking frog polarity as we speak

Cool idea , going to subscribe your channel hello from Canada

You should have a bridge rectifier in the circuit, or the LED won't last.

should put a diode either inline or across the LED - LEDs don't like working as common-or-garden diodes and need protecting. A tiddly 1N4148 or 1N4001 will do the job

Brilliant idea! Thanks for sharing!

Do not forget that many LEDs ( especially the red ones) accept maximum of 5-6 V in reverse polarity, that means your simple detector can be easily demaged because, especially on DCC track, the peak to peak voltage is far above those 5-6 Volts. ( the resistor in this case has no influence because there is no current in reverse polarity).

Nifty for sure 😊

What a great idea, I'm on board with this, I have a couple of wheel sets that are in my parts box, and I'm going to give this a go. One suggestion if you clen the part your soldering too that might help. But using a little flux would do the trick better.. Anyway Thanks for a Great Idea !!

Too simple for dcc power tester. Power tester, yes, but does the same with DC ( minus the very fast blinking, which can't be observed anyway ). As someone said, put a reverse LED, antiparallel with the existing one. When both lights up, at least it's detecting AC waveform, which can be DCC. If only one LED, it's DC.

You need to add either a diode in series, or another led in parallel with the first but reversed. This is because leds will break with a reverse voltage of more than about 5v. Thank you

Simple brilliant off to make one now 😊

Made one of these with two track testers attached to a OO scale bogie,as each track tester is connected to one set of wheels it detects any brakes across joins in the track and as in DCC mode if the track is wired correctly. To use you connect it in front of a loco and drive it around....

I find it amazing how in real life, the Class 21s and 29s were terrible engines that blew up a lot, quite literally in flames

I like that it simulates a train and can show weak spots over points etc, someone will manufacture this for sure.

Very good.

This was very interesting. Can the Dapol coupling do the delayed uncoupling trick the Yanks have on their knuckle couplers (ie if you push two wagons together over the magnet they don't couple and you can push them along the track and drop one off)?

Excellent video learned a lot, thanks for posting.

The tutorial I have been looking for. Thank you

Thanks for such a clear and detailed video on this, most helpful 👍

Nice tip 😊👍🏼

That was really clear. I'm planning to use these coupling on a little shunting layout in a violin case, and this video takes some of the worry out of the process. My intention is to convert one end of a brake van so i don't have to modify a loco.

I’m happy the algorithm suggested your channel👍🏼 I’m new to model railways and model in N Gauge. This is great advice and something to do in the future. Subscribed, Ian

It's occurred to me watching your video that all I need to do is set up a transition coach, like your truck, and I can decouple a rake of coaches in one simple motion ! Great little instructive video.

Hi, I have had these couplers for quite some time now still in the unopened packet. Your explanation of what, and how to add these couplers I found to be well demonstrated and will now have a go at converting the wagons over the weekend. Much appreciated regards Joe

Good video. I printed something similar a couple of months ago for 00 gauge. I like the idea of the former instead of using the actual wagon when gluing in the load. Regarding removing the loads, I brought the two support legs inwards from the edge a little (like looking at a table side on) then if I push down at the far edge of the load the whole thing tilts upward making removal easy.

Aitch.

That is an excellent way of doing that. Thanks for sharing :) Joe

I had a similar issue with a Dapol 33 ... was not ready to pay the 21 pound price tag plus shipping and import duty on it (I'm in Malta) so I opted for a coreless motor from China costing something like €3+ each (pack of 10) and custom fitted it inside the 33. Was quite easy to do, similar to yours. Think about it next time :) Job well done. I like it when someone tries something outside the box!

It dawned on me that the tubular self tapper is actually a thread insert that has come out of the body. I will glue it if I ever take it apart again 2:17

Very good! Your blue 37 will need de-TOPSing for 1973, though (it's not that difficult - I use Railtech for one-off number transfer sets). Do you have any plans to get the lower quadrant semaphores working? I've thought about it but never managed to get a semaphore to work... hence I use only colour lights. Best wishes from the West Midlands!

Nice looking model railway, about the size of mine, but mine is South Wales (and rather fictitious!)